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About riviadrian

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  • Birthday 04/02/1973

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  1. Thanks Winston, Carb cleaner worked great. Not sure why it didn't work yesterday when I tried the same thing. Oh well, she's running now after a little sweet talk and carb cleaner. She's not the prettiest and she can be a bit temperamental at times, but damn I love that car. I will bring her to you in a bit for that alignment. Thanks again! Adrian
  2. My 63 has been sitting on jack stands for the last 3 months as I have replaced the entire front suspension. I installed a brand new battery and checked that all wires are connected. Has petronix ignition. It will turn over but won't fire. The car started and ran fine when I started this suspension project. Am I missing something? I was supposed to take it in for alignment today. Ugh. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, Adrian
  3. A little experience from a first time classic (63 riv) owner. I bought my 63 4 years ago and I have a love/hate relationship with it. I too always wanted a classic but had no automotive experience and I didn't want the usual mustang or camaro. I wanted a 63 partially mostly because I love the sliders under the dash and the look of the interior better than the 64 and 65. I really love the 65's but am disappointed with the black dash every time I see them. Just my opinion. I wanted to have the experience of restoring the car so I bought one with original paint, good motor and trans, a
  4. I am rebuilding the front suspension on my '63 and was wondering how to tell if I need to have my center link rebuilt. There is no play in the swivel points, so I'm not sure if it is necessary to spend the money and time to send it off for rebuild. Pretty much everything under the car was shot and needed to be replaced, so I expected the center link would be shot as well. It is easy enough to take back off if needed, just not sure what condition it needs to be in before rebuild is necessary. Thanks! -Adrian-
  5. Thanks Jim, JB Weld done, and works great. I've had to re-do several things on this car since it is my first restoration project and I am learning everything for the first time. I appreciate the input on my seemingly obvious questions. Sometimes the fear of doing something wrong slows the process, but I love the car and the challenges it seems to alway present. -Adrian-
  6. My headlight knob keeps coming off in my hand when I pull it. The shaft it attaches to has notches on the end to hold it on. Apparently the inside of the knob had something that grabbed the notches that is now worn away. Is there any reason I can't just glue or jb weld it back on? Seems like an easy enough fix, but I thought I would run it by you all before I did it. Thanks! -Adrian-
  7. I replaced the battery and starter solenoid this week and that did the trick. The first time I crank it, it works great. It seems to crank slower like it's struggling a bit the next few times. I will put it back on the ramps and check that the electrical connections are all still tight. I didn't take the starter to a shop while I had it out so I am hoping it is still ok... Thanks for all the advice, -Adrian-
  8. Thank you guys for the education! Ed, I'm not sure if the heat shield is there, but I will check it out. I will see what I come up with and report back when I get this issue solved- Thanks again! -Adrian-
  9. I am having an issue with the starter on my '63. It is not unusual to turn the key and get nothing, turn off and back on and it fires. Yesterday I drove the car about 20 miles, got to my destination, turned it off and it would not restart. I let it sit for awhile to cool off and it started right up. The same thing happened when I got home and didn't pull into the garage far enough. Tried to restart to pull in farther, and again it wouldn't start. I let it sit for 30 minutes or so, fired right up again. The battery is about 3 years old and had to be put on the charger last week. The c
  10. I did see your veneer while I was doing mine. Fantastic work! Unfortunately I had already stained mine when I saw your post. If I remember correctly, you used oil to get the color you wanted. Seems easier to hide scratches or reapply as apposed to stain and top coat. Yours looks much better than the one I bought, but I will see when I get it. The attraction to this one is that I should be able to stain it to match everything else. Maybe your friend could match the color if I sent a sample. I will definitely let you know if this doesn't work out. Thanks! -Adrian-
  11. Thanks Pat and Schmiddy, This picture is what made me want to change mine. That is beautifully done. I actually just found a used all wood one on eBay that needs to be re-finished for $25. The seller says it fits the base nicely, so I will give it a shot. If it works out I will consider that a good score. I just replaced my veneer on the doors, and replaced the leatherette on the console with veneer, so matching the shifter knob will be a nice finishing touch. Worse case scenario, I'm out $25. -Adrian-
  12. I have seen several pics of first gens with a wooden top to the shifter knob. Is there a source for these, or is this a do it yourself project? I would love to have one to match the rest of my interior pieces. Thanks, -Adrian-
  13. Does anyone have a part # for the light bulb fixture for the shifter indicator on a '63? I broke mine when reinstalling my console. Also, do the metal pieces that hold it in place also serve as a ground? This is one of the last pieces I need to finish my interior install. Thanks! -Adrian-
  14. I bought my package tray from Clark's Corvair. It was pricey, but really nice. I also like the fact that there are no screw holes pre-drilled in it. Just my opinion, but I'm not a fan of the 3 big silver screws across a black package tray. You will have to drill out the holes for your rear speaker cover between the seats. Hint: do this before you install it. Um...yeah, lesson learned. Good luck! -Adrian-
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