64Rivvy

Its a whole lot of extra work to replace the timing chain cover, deal with possible leaks etc, if you can simply just chase or drill and tap the hole. That's literally a 10 minute job if it works. I would start there and if it takes more than 30 min, I'm with you 60FlatTop. Just replace the timing cover bc you're starting to waste time that could go towards a definitive fix.

cquisuila, I just read this again and wanted to correct my last post. Your last diagram was actually correct, not the diagram earlier in the post. Pushing the rear of the hinge that mounts onto the firewall down, and the front of the hinge that is toward the front of the car up, pulls the rear of the hood (closest to windshield) down more flush with the fenders.

Tom T, That's my thought also. Try chasing it first, and if the timing cover hole truly is stripped, just drill to enlarge for a 3/8 bolt and tap. Easier and better/stronger solution than helicoil. Also I would make sure the larger bolt will fit through the fuel pump mounting hole before drilling the cover as well just to make sure you don't end up with an oh s**t moment.

Yes that first picture seemed to be accurate at least based on what I found.

I just tried adjusting them every which way. Moderate improvement but still bad. My driver side hinge looks to be bent bc it’s not sitting flush to the firewall. Pass side is better but I probably need to find some rebuilt hinges. Pulling the rear of the hinge at the firewall side down and the front of the hinge towards front of car up lowered the rear of the hood the most, but still about a 1/4 inch off.

That’s great to know. I ordered an interior screw set a while back and it came with a cd I just happened to see yesterday. I bet it has that on there. I’m going to check and print it out. Could have used it tonight actually. Thanks.

Appreciate it. I measured to top of the tank assuming by neck you mean the neck that the radiator cap screws on to. Thanks.

First i would try chasing the threads and get a new bolt and see if that addresses your stripped bolt issue. Be sure to use grease on the tap to catch all shavings. If that doesn't work it might need to be drilled and tapped. I'm not sure if that would require removing the cover but I assume yes. I will defer to someone who knows more on the fuel pump getting stuck other than i know on some engines you need to turn the crank or bump the ignition to release arm on the fuel pump. Not sure if that applies on nailheads.

Ed. I think someone else was looking for the screw. I was just chiming in with mr. G's as a thought thx for confirming on the headlight hoods. That figures. I was so excited when I saw that nice chrome under there.

I kept it forever just in case but tossed it a few months ago when I had a dumpster for some home reno and cleaned out the garage. I know I out them side by side and they looked close but I didn't measure them closely bc i bought the radiator way before I was actually going to replace it. I just measured the new radiator for reference and here are the dimensions. 25 7/8" wide x 22 1/2" tall x 3" deep These measurements are all at the widest and tallest part of the radiator.

1/4-20 it was. I chased the air cleaner stud and the oem wing nut spun on there like butter. Its the little things that can be so satisfying. Thanks!

So I almost fell into what I call the Riviera rabbit hole here but stepped back for a bit. I really have no evidence that my mounts are bad and when I look at how completely off things are with the original fan clutch compared to the shorter fan clutch I'm using now, i have to think it's something as simple as my replacement radiator from opgi bing different dimensions or something else is off. Things are way too off all around to be just engine mounts. I used my time this weekend to run the engine through a few temp cycles and find leaks and check temps etc. I finished replacing the remaining fuel lines. I've got a few leaks as to be expected. New tranny lines are leaking slightly at the radiator, new thermostat housing is weeping coolant despite using a new gasket and etc, dipstick is leaking oil where it goes in the block. Engine sounded pretty good overall. Will come back to the cooling fan shortly but just really needed to make some progress. Also got some more interior pieces reinstalled, almost done with last of the new carpet. .Really appreciate all the help and ideas.

One other source for the hood screws might be Mr. G's enterprises.

While you guys are talking about the headlight hoods, is the correct finish for the headlight hoods chrome or are they painted with a flat/brushed silver paint. Mine were looking pretty bad so I hit one with steel wool and the most perfect chrome was lurking under the paint. I wasn't sure if they were originally chrome or painted, and maybe the paint helped preserve the chrome.

Good to hear.

Thanks. Yeah i meant adjust up or down. I put pb blaster on there to free things up and I've sprayed white lithium grease into all of the pivot and moving parts. Will try adjusting it again tomorrow. Cquisuila, i was trying to confirm bc it seems like your diagram is the opposite of what seafoam was saying. Trying to figure out if I need to raise the rear of the hinge up or down. I tried playong around with them earlier today and the hood didn't seem to change much so wondering if maybe they need to be rebuilt or replaced. Will try again tomorrow.

I put pb blaster on all all the pivot points last night. Just to make sure I'm clear. To pull the rear of the hood down flush, does the rear of the hinge that mounts to the firewall need to slide up or down?

I am having this exact same issue with my 64 hinges. Here's a pic of the rear of the hood where it won't settle down. I'm going try what's suggested here to see if it fixes it.

I got my black vinyl from clarks for my 64. Very nice and good quality. I had to replace my foam on all seats because everything was moldy and falling apart but I agree the new foam is nothing like the old. I actually took my frames back to bare metal, primed and repainted them, then took them to an upholsterer. If your frames are rusty i would clean and paint them. My upholsterer said if you don't clean and paint the frames they will still always have a smell to them. That price is not too bad. I paid less but they didn't do the best Job in the world either though. If I hadn't taken them they would prob still be waiting in the garage for me to finish them. I would let them do it and focus your time on other fixes or improvements. It is extremely labor intensive. You will also need to buy hog ring pliers, rings, replacement edging, batting, additional foam which will likely run 1 to $200 if you don't already have that stuff. You will likely find you can save almost the amount of the job by doing something else easier and faster on the car that doesn't require as much skill and art to get right such as suspension rebuild, etc

Thanks Tom. If I jack it up I will replace the motor mounts first as that may solve the problem. Prob a pretty good chance these motor mounts are old and shot event though they don't look too bad. That should lift the motor and fan up enough to give me the needed clearance and give me some new mounts at the same time Any recommendations on source for engine mounts and pointers on replacing them? Can I just get them at the auto store or does a certain brand matter? How long do you think replacing the mounts will take? Is it a one to two hour job or more like a whole weekend job? Thank you.

Thanks guys. I just replaced my transmission cooler lines, radiator, condenser, heater core,heater hoses,heater control valve, heater cables, and radiator hoses, thermostat and housing recently. Doing the tranny lines is one of several reasons i want to avoid removing the radiator if I can when I do the timing cover. Only reason I'm going to replace the timing cover is the PO broke off several water pump mount bolts and drilled some screws in there in a sort of hack job. Its not leaking but it needs to be addressed and looks like crap. Thanks Tom for all the details. Will definitely refer to this when I do it. I need to get a list of all the parts I need to make sure I can do it without having to stop and order more parts. What I know I need is new timing cover, timing chain, replacement metal timing gears and gaskets. Anything else I need? Already have the water pump,new mounting bolts and gasket. Also judging from the look of it I may need a new crossover/galley pipe. I know there are some gaskets and o rings needed for that also.

Yes when i pull it back apart i will remove the shroud but don't plan to remove the radiator. Looks to be enough room I'm having my ac compressor rebuilt also so will remove all of that and accessory brackets at once. I have the water pump and hardware i got from Russ. Any recommendations on best source for the timing cover. Think I need to get gears and a timing chain as well. Thanks.

Jsgun. Very nice setup there. Looks good and you should never have to worry about cooling. Similar to setup i did when I built my Cobra a while back. 67 mustang is my fav year. My last project was a 67 fastback. Driving that daily for 15 years is some serious dedication. Hat off to you.

Shakedown runs was probably dramatic. I was more going to drive it around my neighborhood and let it idle a while. Once I know everything is solid and i have no leaks from the new tranny cooler lines, radiator and heater hoses, etc, I'm going to pull the valve covers, replace the timing cover and water pump, and repaint the valve covers, intake, crossover and brackets. Just want to let the engine run long enough to make sure I'm not hearing any concerning sounds etc. I drove it about 15 miles home when i originally bought it, and drove around a bit after that, but hasn't really run for about 3 years.

The engine mounts look pretty good but I have no idea when they were replaced. How hard is it to lift the engine and access them? I really don't want to open another can of worms bc every time I do, it always snowballs.. can i lift the engine with a jack to get to them, or will I have to use a hoist?