Larry W

I have a friend, four years older than me, who told me he once purchased, at auction, a former Wisconsin State Patrol car, grey and black, that was a '62 Chevy Biscayne 4 door, with a 409 CID 4bbl, with 3spd/OD transmission.

For what it's worth, my high school auto shop had a 1957 Chevrolet 150 4 door sedan US Army staff car painted drab army green.

It was probably a stolen car.

I remember a 1957 Oldsmobile 88 four door sedan Fire Chief's car belonging to the Milwaukee Fire Department into the early 1970's. Several years later, I met a guy who told me that he purchased that car at an auction, and that it had a standard shift three speed transmission, button hubcaps and probably a standard steering wheel and radio delete. He changed the color from red to black and after he sold it, it was never to be seen again.

I'm wondering why you're intent on converting to disc brakes when you're retaining the original drive train with no need for speed. Stopping power should be directly related to horsepower, and if you haven't increased the horsepower significantly, then the original drum brakes should remain more than adequate, as they were when the car was new. A more prudent consideration for safety and reliability might be a dual master cylinder instead. This would also allow you to retain the stock wheels and hubcaps if desired. Also, I would only replace the ball joints if the ones you have are worn out. Why replace good parts, unless you want to incur more work and expense.

Hey, you're pretty good lookin'!

1957 DeSoto started out with single 7 inch headlights and then about mid model year switched over to dual 5 inch.

1954 Oldsmobile 98, 4dr.

Quick check for the coil; the next time it dies, spray some water on the body of the coil to cool it down, and then see if the engine immediately restarts.

Take the original parts to an industrial bearing supplier and they will measure and match up needed bearings, bushings and seals.

I was thinking '52 Fiat.

I once saw a Met powered by an Isuzu diesel; that could be a novel setup also.

I'd say 1956 Olds.

By "taking out" a spark plug, do you mean you're disconnecting a plug wire from a spark plug? If so, try this instead; peel back the rubber boot from the end of the spark plug wire where it connects to the spark plug. With the engine idling, take a screwdriver and ground the connection to the engine block. Do you get the same result? Does the engine die?

Off hand, I'd say right rear quarter tail section. If not a '51-'52 Chevrolet, then an earlie fifties Chrysler.

Why different rims? Keep all stock parts for the next owner if you don't plan on keeping it very long.

BTW, belated thanks to all above for all the info.

Stop asking your barber if you need a haircut, and follow the advice given thus far .

Why not take the car with you. I relocated from WI to MI and brought my cars with me. All that's left to move is my wife and her furniture. I couldn't leave my babies behind!

I just saw an advertisement on TV from Maaco saying that they will paint your car for $299. It may be something to look into. Probably just single stage, but if you do the prep work it may turn out to be a pretty good deal.

That's for you to decide. I don't know why it split, probably just stress on "tired iron". I doubt that it cracked just from sitting for thirty years.

I would re-post this in the "Kaiser, Frazer, Darin, Henry J, Willys" section of this forum. Assuming that H J stands for Henry J, someone there might be more familiar with these parts.

I'll hazard a guess that it's an idler arm for a Ford product of 50's or 60's vintage.

I think that I would consider having the rusty hub manga fluxed after it's been cleaned up, just to make sure it's in better condition than your original one. You may have this done to both hubs and weigh the options of having the original one repaired and kept as a spare.

. These are brackets that go along with the accessory bumper guards in # 246.