Larry W

I don't know. That's why I'm advising not to get too deep into it. You may be opening a can of worms. I would just remove the bowl shaped cover, and leave the rest alone.

I hope someone acquires this car for whatever it may be worth and does like Flat Top says. It breaks my heart to see complete, but rough cars like this get parted out.

It's just missing something, like maybe fender skirts and lake pipes.

My son acquired a '46 Chrysler convertible under similar circumstances. He has just finished rebuilding the engine and is in the process of re-assembling it with what he has, pitted chrome, any many other less than perfect pieces. He'll be driving it around with the top down until he can afford to replace it. Seeing a not so perfect old Chrysler convertible moving down the road or at a car show is better than not seeing one at all! This is part of the reason I think Rat Rods became so popular. PUT IT TOGETHER AND DRIVE IT !

Unless there's been a mechanical failure of some type, it's probably not necessary to disassemble the entire rear axle assembly, aka third member. If there's been a whine or a growling noise than go ahead and investigate and repair. But if it turns smoothly with minor effort, I would just replace the seals, and clean the gunk out of the pumpkin. Use a magnet in the old gear lube to determine the condition by seeing if any metal fines are attracted to it. If there's little or nothing than it's in pretty good shape. Then just re-assemble what you have and clean and paint. I would apply the old adage "Don't fix what ain't broke." But that's your decision, I'm sure there's more pressing details on your project that command your time and attention.

On my '57 Ford, I had one cylinder that water got into and seized the piston to the cylinder wall. With the head removed, I cleaned up the top of the piston and exposed portion of the cylinder wall as best I could. Then I applied a gentle heat to the cylinder wall with a propane torch as evenly as I could. The thought being that the cylinder would expand enough to allow penetrating oil to do its job. After several applications, along with taps from a hammer and block of wood, the piston broke free and now the motor purrs like a kitten.

A Citroen could be described as a quirky, yet innovative French automobile. See the movie "American Graffiti 1".

Wild guess..... Citroen from the forties or early fifties?

I believe these may be aftermarket accessory front bumper guards that may fit various models, popular from late forties through mid fifties.

I believe I read an article in "Rod and Custum" magazine a couple years back, on how to get a really nice paint job using Rust-o-leum rattle cans. Don't laugh! 99% of a nice paint job is in the body and prep work and rubbing and polishing afterwords. I plan on investigating this further and trying it myself.

I agree! An Ardun head on an inline six, with maybe a split exhaust and dual carbs? That would probably look and sound awesome!

By now you must be the most confused person on this forum. I tend to agree with #9, 12, and 13. I agree that cutting back and butt welding would would be the most correct method of repair, ( I'll be doing this with my '64 Ford), but I've seen the "plate over" method outlast the vehicle here in the rust belt. Heck, I ounce did a "plate over" on an '85 Dodge plow truck with a completely severed frame rail, but instead of welding, used large diameter self tapping sheet metal screws (don't judge me), and it held until something else killed the truck. Keep your eyes open for a replacement frame if you want, but until you find one, repair yours as best you can and enjoy your car. You didn't pay that much for it anyway. Plain Jane models are more rare at car shows than high end models, and I also enjoy seeing them. My'55 Ford is just a 6cyl. Customline.

Go ahead and post a pix; we may be able to come with a close guess, or maybe hit it right on. The identification I mean, not the glass!

Perhaps an adequate solution to the "chair rule" dilemma would be to allow chairs at a specified distance, say ten feet, behind the car so as to allow a clear shot for those with cameras. If I want information or would like the hood or trunk closed, I'm not shy about asking "Whose car is this?"

Make sure the brakes are working first!

Shadetree, I was there too. Perfect venue, perfect weather, one of the best shows ever! I had to leave early, so I didn't get an opportunity to take a ride. Thanks for posting the videos.

'55's are painted white between the bow ties, '56 are painted black. Also, the area near the outside diameter is different between the two years. The ones pictured would be 1956.

The Gilmore Automotive Museum in Hickory Corners, Michigan has an extensive hood ornament display. Perhaps someone there can provide more information.

And, 1955 Plymouth, all four door models.

The cause of your problem may also lie in the turn signal switch, in the steering column, as the brake light circuit runs through it.

Before you make any decisions, I would take a few photographs, and consult several sheet metal and/or metal fabrication shops for their opinion on how to repair.

Yes, 1947 also.

I carry my tow chain in a gallon milk jug, cut away the spout but leave the handle. An empty bottle of laundry soap works even better.

Make sure that you're not mistaking zero resistance for infinite resistance, which would be not good.

Are you using resistor spark plugs and cables? Try switching to non-resistor components if all else fails.