Larry W

Where you able to positively identify the year and make of the motor? Where you able to get it to turn over? Did you get it to run?

Chico, I doubt that the person who owns the car, or the property that it's resting on would mind if you hacked away some of the growth around it in order to get some clearer photos for easier identification. Although, there are probably some pro's out there who can tell what it is from what you've submitted. Larry W

I'm not sure, but your full pump may be the same as on my '57 Olds, which is actualy a dual pump with the bottom portion being the fuel pump and the top portion being a vacuum boost pump. A ruptured diaphram in the top portion would cause a loss of manifold vacuum and also sooty spark plugs because manifold vacuum would suck engine oil from the front cover/timing chain area through the ruptured diaphram to be burned in the engine. Remove the screws from the top portion to examine the diaphram. Replacements should be readily available. PM me with your results.

Never realized it before, but I like this stuff too. Maybe not quite as much as old cars, because I don't know as much about them, but they still turn my head whenever I come upon them. Thanks for the pix!

I have a friend who really does need the parts for his restoration. I'm contacting him now.

All great advice thus far, you may also want to double check for proper ignition coil polarity. A quick check of the integrity of your oil pressure gauge, would be to disconnect the oil line leading to it and crank the engine to see if oil squirts out, into an empty container of course.

Defiantly keep the six. You have something rare and unique. I was quite surprised when, back in high school, a friend picked me up in a '61 Impala convertible with a six cylinder engine and Powerglide transmission. I have seen only one other in forty years since, and that was a bubble top here in southeast MI.

I'll never forget what a tow bar is! I used a home made one to bring my '57 Olds from Troup Texas to Milwaukee Wisconsin, behind my '75 Olds convertible, back in '77.

. Post the pictures right here and all of us can help identify.

When it comes to spark plugs in an antique vehicle, I like to measure the resistance of the center electrode with an ohm meter, and use whatever brand has the the lowest resistance. This tactic seems to render the best performance.

I suspect that the driveway may have had grass at an earlier time in place of the now present bricks. This was a common and inexpensive practice years ago.

Thanks for the pix. I usually attend this show but missed it this year because I had to travel back to my hometown in Wisconsin, the deeper freeze.

I would think that the first order of business would be to seek the services of a reputable antique auto appraiser to at least establish a maximum and minimum price. Then ask the maximum when selling, and go down from there when bargaining.

Just a thought, but sometimes parts like these get mixed up in parts bins, and you actually purchased the next size bigger. Carefully re-measure what you have.

Post pix here. I would just like to see what they look like.

I'd like to expand on "rocketraider's" comments. I wonder how many well meaning individuals purchased old cars to restore, thinking that they could finish it in a week or so, tearing it apart, then realizing what a daunting task they embarked on, and selling it at their wife's insistence for a fraction of their investment. I personally know of a '69 Cutlas convertible that suffered that fate and I'm sure that there many others, all due to these " reality" shows. On another note, whenever I make a donation to PBS, I ask that they try to broadcast more automotive based shows, but there's slim pickens at best. The ones they've shown in the past have all been a pleasure to watch, and much closer to "reality".

Hey Bleach, I really like your '56 Ford. I once had one just like it, Buckskin Tan and White. 312 with 3 speed and overdrive. It still holds a place in my heart!

I could be wrong, but from the photo it looks like the Ford 289 CID that I had in my '65 Mustang. I wouldn't start tearing it apart right away, I'd first try to turn the engine over with a large socket on the harmonic balancer bolt, after removing the spark plugs. Examine the spark plug electrodes as a possible indication of the condition of the cylinders. Oily and sooty may be okay but rust may indicate moisture infiltration and a seized piston. Pour some Marvel Mystery Oil down the carburetor and squirt some in each spark plug hole. The crank should turn at least one revolution. If it doesn't, use a large flat blade screwdriver or small pry bar on the ring gear. If the engine turns over by hand, take a 12 volt battery and a pair of jumper cables and attach the positive post of the battery to the heavy cable terminal on the starter. Connect one end of the negative cable to the battery negative post, and touch the opposite end anywhere on a cast iron part of the engine, away from the fan and pulleys. If the engine spins over, connect a jumper wire between the positive post of the battery to the plus terminal of the coil, and remove the coil wire from the distributor cap and hold it about 1/4 inch away from the intake manifold. Again, crank the engine over as before and observe if you have spark at the end of the coil wire. Immediately disconnect the jumper wire from the battery. If you have spark, re-insert the coil wire into the distributor cap, re-install the spark plugs and cables, pour an ounce of fuel down the carburetor, reconnect the battery to coil jumper wire, and fire that sucker up!

Westley's Bleach White works great but you MUST APPLY IT TO A DRY TIRE. Let it soak for a minute or two, then scrub briskly with a brush and soapy water. Rinse with clear water.

Just yesterday I started playing with a Zenith TV / Phono/ AM/FM Radio console that we acquired from my wife's grandmother. It's exactly like the one from the lower apartment in Marilyn Monroe's movie "Some Like It Hot". I applied power to it but could only get the tubes and radio dial to light up. No hum from the transformers and no raster on the TV. What is the significance of the Cobra tone arm,(missing needle) which this one has? I would like to get this entire unit to work, as the Detroit (MI) area has several cool AM oldies radio stations, such as Jimmy James on 1160 WCXI out of Fenton, and antenna TV stations that air "Highway Patrol", "Racket Squad", and original "Dragnet" among many others. We also have a small collection of 78 rpm records to play. On another note, I have several small vacuum tube portable TVs (non-working I'm sure) that I would like to send to a good home. Anyone interested?

For what it's worth, I don't own a Buick, but on my '99 Chrysler Town & Country, you're better have equal tire pressure and wear at all four corners or the ABS ain't happy. Not only will it burp but it wil puke and fart also. It's an easy check.

I can't help but chime in here and agree with Rusty Otool. If you're not highly experienced in auto restoration and/or you don't have a boat load of cash, leave the car as is. You're fortunate in that the car already looks cool just the way it is, and I sense that these unrestored cars garner as much, or more, attention as the highly restored ones do at car shows and cruises. I would just maintain the mechanicals and clean it up as best you can (don't throw anything away) and enjoy the heck out of it.

The spotlight could have used by a doctor, or maybe a pizza delivery driver! At any rate, keep it, it's cool.

Do you have adequate oil pressure? If so, that would eliminate a problem with the oil pump. You've already had the valve covers off and saw nothing wrong there. I agree that the problem is in the front area, possibly with the timing chain. I would remove the front engine cover,(support the front of the engine with a floor jack and a block off wood) and maybe the timing chain and sprocket, and look closely for abnormal signs of wear. Then I would remove the distributor, and with the use of a speed wrench I would drive the oil pump in the proper direction of rotation and observe the amount of oil flowing to this area. If there is little or no oil supplied, then you'll have to determine why.

I agree, look it over closely to see if it mounts the same. I believe the 371 was used through 1960 in 88's with 2bbl carbs. This pump may have been correct for those, but could possibly be used on earlier models.