kgreen

Almost as bad is the Ford cap on the front seat. He prefers Fords and had several of them, though I did not see them. He is also restoring a 1941 Cadillac Series 62, two door convertible. He was doing a fantastic job on it. I did visit his shop to see that car. While a few things didn't seem quite correct the car is well preserved, and far from sitting in a field rotting away. I wonder how many people have rare, uncounted cars like this?

In the wild and uncounted. I suggested a BCA membership. "nah, I just restore 'em and drive 'em. I don't need no stinking car club". Said this car has $10,000 in rechromed pot metal on it.

Nice purchase Lamar. I agree that Bruce is a heck of a guy (Shar too). They seem to do alot behind the scenes for the benefit of the organization.

Hmmm, no snow on the ground so we must be no further north in the US continent than north Georgia.

Primer is not a moisture resistant coating. It is used to prep a surface for eventual painting. Eventual may be a specific time frame as well. Epoxy primer is a moisture resistant coating and a prep for eventual painting. It must be applied to bare, properly treated metal. If a car was "primed" it is likely to develop rust from moisture condensing on the primered (sp) surface. An epoxy coated car will hold up for months or longer even if moisture condenses on the metal surface.

Here's some help for starters

Standard may have a different meaning here for a car sold in two different areas. I have found that standard equipment on cars in wealthy suburban areas includes several options while standard in a rural farming community is as plain as Jane can get.

Nice save.

It looks original and looks good, yes, but it belongs on someone else's car.

I just discovered that on another car the firewall seal is two pieces of metal joined to make one piece once the rubber is vulcanized onto the two parts. In the above post I noted that the firewall seal is two pieces; let me clear that up. The joint between the two pieces occurs at the bend from the sloped portion of the floor above the brake and clutch pedals and the near vertical firewall. I have found a guy that will revulcanize my firewall seal for $135. He can also revulcanize my metal stone guards.

Any available? Part description (two parts): There is a vulcanized, light gage steel plate on the steering shaft assembly where it penetrates the firewall and a second similarly treated steel plate just over the brake and clutch pedals. Picture below: I cannot find this part in the Buick Master Parts book. Does this part have a name and is this part available? (Steele does not list this part.)

Just saw a set advertised for a 1940 Buick limited on eBay. Sold at this point, but here is a picture:

I've been searching for images for the 1940 splash pans. Nothing yet. Here is a picture of a pair for a 1936 Buick, not sure what series. The ask was $225

Well, there goes the Buick restoration budget for the next four years!

Referring back to your brake pedal bracket, you said that you used clear zinc. What manufacturer did you purchase from? That assembly looks great.

I just bought a loaded frame for a large series Buick this past summer, the engine ran. The steering gearbox, shaft, steering wheel and two original wheels were also attached. The guy was going to rat rod the body on a frame he was going to build. I might have been a special customer as I had to have the parts so you too will be looking for that special customer. I've seen small series frames like this advertised for many months going unsold. Having the original wheels would be desireable. You're in the range of $400 (got to go $) - $1,000 (got to have it $).

I've looked in the parts book and cannot find enough info to identify the part. I have seen it too. In fact there was a splash pan on both sides of the engine at frame level. I think it was a one piece pan on the right side and a two piece pan on the left side. I'd be interested in more info on this as well.

Nice project. Do you have a total car write-up?

Appetite now wetted - need pics of the car.

I once read a thread on another forum titled "restoring for the next generation". I think you are doing that at the very least. In fact, I suspect that 70 years from now when that car is restored again, GM will get a lot more credit for the care with which they assembled cars than they deserve, based on the effort that you put into this car.

"Let's deal"

See? I did get it back together and didn't have to exercise any unbecoming vocabulary. Runs smooth as a Buick should.

Thanks 50 and Don. I removed the housing as you noted. The ball bearing is a stamped steel housing with low load requirements. It does not need to be replaced as it doesn't see much at all for loads causing wear. It likely doesn't require replacement on the majority of restoration projects out there. The smooth operation of the steering wheel will be compromised, however, by old hardened grease. By cleaning the inner and outer race, degreasing the balls and relubricating, I'm betting that I will have a like-new feel. I removed the housing as shown below: This is what it looks like when removed: bottom top A snap ring holds the assembly together. Once the snap ring is removed, the assembly comes apart and ball bearings roll all over the place. (I had the balls contained - didn't lose any!) I degressed the balls and the two halves of the retainer. I then gobbed lithium grease all over the housing surrounded by the balls in the above picture, and "glued" the balls in place. Slipped the top cover back over the inner race, re-snapped the snap ring and voila: this end of the steering shaft will last the rest of my lifetime. In the meantime, I ordered a new pitman shaft seal ($10.00), pitman bushings ($11.00) and roller thrust bearings ($22.00). I'll show you the assembly once those parts are received.

Ricki and Lucy trade in the Lincoln and rely on Buick. Unfortunately, Ricki has the same driving skills.