kgreen

I would also presume that you could heat up the coil sufficiently that it could be damaged.

There are various grades of SS based on the alloys, nickel being an important variable. Some stainless will rust, although slower than plain carbon steel. Gary's use of stainless on his car looks really great. The hot rodders will file and polish the bolt heads and make everything look clean and shiney. I'm not familiar from experience to know if running board fasteners are prone to road debris damage (impact) which would make painting them almost fruitless. As for using stainless or other long term corrosion tricks on a vintage car restoration, I'm always trying to remind myself that I am not preparing a daily driver that will be exposed to routine rain, salt and slush. I am not likely to see the deterioration on my cars from the use I will put them through compared to the initial buyer of that same car. When complete, I expect to be driving my car so some road rash, dirt and minor surface rust on unprotected steel is inevitable. Gary, what are your plans for this beautiful car? Driving it?

Great news! Other important things that I saw in the video was plenty of room to the right of your existing garage to build MORE garage space!

I see now. It has been stored outside for to long. What are your plans?

Based on a quick view of your video, the body doesn't look bad at all. The engine sounds tight, looks like you have a winner on your hands. Congrats

Excellent progress, great work! Thanks for sharing.

Nice work John, you just added to my knowledge base. Thanks

That's Donald Turnupseed's Ford in the back left. He's the guy that ran the stop sign.

Thanks Gary, that's great background. You're terrific!

I've recently found the SEM paints as well. Have you addressed your steering column yet? Not sure if your year is the same as my '40, is your steering column a light brown color? I was going to see if the shop that sells the SEM paint could mix up a batch of that proper color.

1940 as noted above, either a Super or Roadmaster. I'm not sure of any differences from the interior except possibly the interior chrome windshield garnish. Darn great looking car, though. Got more pics?

My understanding, subject to more investigation on my part when I'm at your stage, is that if base color is mixed with the clearcoat, you will get more of an appearance of the original paint. The clear coat will provide depth and shine which is what you may desire. Adding color to the clearcoat gives you the same durability as base/clear, but reduces the depth of the clear. Just a thought to throw on the garage floor as this is what I am considering doing.

Sure, not sure what happened there... Full face view: At location of hubcap edge: 5-1/2 inch width: Approximately 8-1/2 inches at outer edge location of hubcap: Overall rim diameter:

Is the Special wheel unique to the Special? Would you possibly have a better picture?

The wheel has a 5-inch bolt pattern

Running: increases value 100%, fun factor 1000%

If not the hundredth time watching this car chase scene, I finally caught some of the backdrop cars parked along the streets. When Bullitt was filmed in 1968 the '58 Buick was only ten years old. Seems like a 10 year old car difference these days isn't as noticeable as it was from the 50's through the 60's. Here you go with a 58 Buick still in the wild.

The Mustang was cool, the Chrysler product was history, the Buick was a supporting actor.

Give this a try: I used to fix neighborhood mowers, snowblowers and such before I could buy cars. There were occasions when somebody would just give me the equipment because they wanted to buy new and were tired of the old. I made peanuts fixing things and getting exposed to various problems and lucked into free, fixable stuff that I could then sell for profit. Once I turned 15 I started working on cars, mine and my buddies. But that was in the 70's when an IT degree wasn't necessary for auto repair.

The 1940 15-inch wheels are 5 inches wide (as opposed to 5-1/2 for 1937). the '40 wheel has an indent (below) to accomodate the hubcap. Possibly a better picture of the wheel indent:

Oh...

Tell me it isn't true! I'm about to replace the radiator and I'm vaguely aware that I will need to remove a substantial amount of the front sheet metal. If this is true, I'm going to consider a trade-in on a brand new '49 model.

Darn kids, you'd think that after we so carefully raised them to proper standards that they would fall all over themselves to have our collected "stuff".

I recently cleaned out some of my dad's stuff and found a similar jack. The one dad had, has a flip lever on it to allow jacking up or when reversed, jacking down. I didn't find a handle for it. Is this some sort of universal jack?

I think I will paint it trans and drive line semi-gloss then. Thanks for y'alls input.