slosteve

Of course I don't like everything about it but it appears to be a nicely done mild custom Riv. Steve

Great work Kaber; models are more work than most people think. Steve

dhaven, I may have gotten ahead of myself here. In looking through your past posts there is no mention of a rebuilt engine. If it hasn't been, then you could easily disregard my past post re: priming. Is this engine rebuilt or has it been running before? Steve

In this discussion about using a screw driver to turn the oil pump, I can't help but wonder about priming your new engine. Now, I've never built a Nailhead but the engines I have built (mostly small block Chebies) I always used a drill motor with a shaft to turn the pump 'til oil came out of the pushrods onto the rocker arms. Steve

Great article/photos and your Riv looks fantastic. Steve

A blast, as in Artic blast?! lol. It's only in the 50's here and if I was driving mine I'd have the heater blasting and the windows up! :cool: Your Riv looks great, btw. Glad that you are enjoying it and allowing us to also. Steve

That's the way mine is setup also. And, of course, the plastic coating is practically gone and horrid looking. Steve

As disappointing as that is, I suppose I will have to accept it. My problem is my youthful recollection of driving one of these beauties when it was relatively new and the apple of my eye. There I was piloting the most stunning car on the earth's surface - it was the highlight of my life. So of course it was comfy; it was exquisite, as if on a cloud. How could reality live up to that! Steve

I took my Clark's upholstery to a 'very experienced trimmer' who warned me about the repro foam doing what you described. So he installed his 'better', handshaped stuff; it's not comfortable & I sit too high! Steve

Thanks Bernie, I knew you would have a good story for that question.

Just curious Bernie, what's the difference because of age?

So David, how about the new garage? Steve

The paint?

Thanx for the suggestions guys. I'm going to try Ed's first as I have more time than money, but nice to know they're re-poed Winston. Can't help but wonder how 'coast's' turned out. Steve

I am looking at my plastic armrests and wondering how to strengthen and repair them. My originals are all cracked and/or broken but the PO provided some replacements that are in better shape but are obviously the same age and I fear that they may also get broken. Steve

I am just getting around to installing the one I purchased awhile back from Clarks. I DON'T want to drill any holes in the wrong place so what I've done is drilled the 2 holes furthest to the rear and outside that the trim plates/moldings fit on top of. Mine (a '65) were 50 & 1/2 inches apart and I used those moldings to help determine their height after first fitting them on my old, distorted cardboard tray. I came out good with those holes so I installed masking tape above the center hole of the three remaining to make markings on, marked a straight line vertically up onto the glass area from the hole and then put the new piece in place securing it with the 2 end screws. I determined the center hole should be 1 1/2 inch below the rear lip of the tray. If that makes absolutely no sense to you, I could take some photos and post them when I get back to it. Steve Steve

Thanks for the response & photos, Brian. After a bit more shopping without satisfaction, I decided to re-visit the first light that I bought and found that today it doesn't look too bad. So I started making brackets to mount it and see how it fits. Steve

And it looks FAST too! :cool: Steve

I'm bringing this back up as I am looking for a decent one to install before replacing my package tray. I bought one before realizing how small that rear window is from the perspective of the rear view mirror. Because of the angle of the rear window, the light is big enough to reduce the view considerably so I'm still looking. Steve

Count me in, we know how you love to teach. Steve

Okay & thanks to both of youse. I ordered a set today. Steve

Thanks for the review Pete. Do they have the 1/4" stainless trim on them that sets on top of the door panel like the stock item?

Has anybody found replacements that have the wider stainless trim on the top or figured out a way to duplicate such?

I've got some more photos to share on this project; these are the sensors for the e-level controller mounted on the front frame and connected to the upper A-arm mounted on the rear frame rail and connected to the rear control arm. Here is a shot of my air valves mounted on a board along with the e-level computer, oversized relay and the wiring, with the 2nd photo showing it in place under the package tray. I used Velcro strips to hold them in place so no holes had to be drilled. This, of course, is the air tank. The legs on the bottom were made to support it without any attachment bolts and the curved top bracket under the air press. gauge attaches to the metal under the package tray with another special bracket so no holes were drilled. After chasing a couple air leaks I finally finished the system and everything is working A-Okay. :cool: Steve

Yes, it looks good in yellow. Steve