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Everything posted by slosteve

  1. I've installed the same unit on 3 of my classics, the latest being my '65 Riv. I would agree with johnrex on all of the above and Jim in the exemplary way they perform. Steve
  2. Kev, last year I made the mistake of just adding some gear oil to what was already in the diff. I then drove the car about 1400 miles with that new oil coming out of every conceivable place on the rear end. Guess they didn't mix well. Anyhow, ended up pulling the diff and cleaning the old gunk out of it and replacing it with new 85w-140 as I live in one of the hottest places in this country. With a new gasket, it hasn't leaked a drop. BTW, that center section is very heavy; be careful. Steve
  3. Gary, that pass. side rocker arm area looks awfully clean. Your work or was it that way? Steve
  4. Care to share the Brand name & part #, David. Mines been churning way to often, lately. Steve
  5. So where is it that you live with such intolerable conditions, TKRIV?
  6. Try Classic Auto Air in Florida Steve
  7. Thanks for taking the time to post the photos, Bill. You were very helpful in helping me discover that mine were not made for my '65, which has that 'valance' below the bumper running straight across with no dips or curves and no holes for the clips. Steve
  8. I bought a pair of these also and am wondering how to install them as my car didn't have them when I bought it. Steve
  9. Thanks for letting us know how this played out. Much appreciated. Steve
  10. My experience with reversed rims is that they tend to put extra strain on the wheel bearings, especially ball type bearings. Great looking '65 you have there, SB3. Steve
  11. Absolutely outrageous photos! Top Notch. Steve
  12. Glad to see you back at it David. Sorry for your bodywork dilema; it's the most expensive part of any build. That's one reason mine's not painted. I'm planning on going the EFI route also and was wondering how you decided on Holley. Just wondering as I've heard they are very good units but I really don't know how to judge one from another aside from price. Steve
  13. A separate wire was used and run from the cold side of the brake light switch to light. Also has a ground wire and a wire which I connected to the brown license light wire in the trunk harness for regular lighting. Steve
  14. Here's a couple photos of mine. It's not too stylish from the inside and I first thought that I overdid it but the results are very good from the rear. This shows the 'lights on' version the brake light being much brighter. Steve
  15. I've had the same feeling, pyntre. So I mounted one low in my rear window and it really does the job. I can't find the photos right now but will post them after I take some more. Steve
  16. Personally, I preferred the Eldo' over the Toronado;
  17. Dave, here is the reply from the 'Fitment Technician' at QA1 to my question of which shock they would recommend for my air ride suspension. "I think you are on the right track looking for a rebound adjustable shock. When you change the air pressure in the bags you are changing the spring rate which will stiffen the suspension. The Monroes are gas charged and are adding the spring rate of the suspension as well. The best option we have for an adjustable shock for you is our double adjustable Stocker Star shocks which allow you to change both the compression and rebound independently of each other." Steve
  18. NO, they don't on my '65 Steve. Must have ign. switch ON. Steve
  19. BMac, I can't remember what Riviera you are working on. Steve
  20. Dave, I have an air ride setup. Ride height is about 2-3" lowered. Goes 'a bit' lower for show only. Do you use non-adjustable, single adjustable or double adjustable? I've been on their website looking at them. Steve
  21. That's all I needed to hear, Dave. I'm going in for some QA1's for the rear. Would you have a part # that you used? Steve
  22. Thanks for taking the time to check, sir. You may still be able to sell me something if you have a decent '65 Riv rear sheetmetal section. Please take the time to look at my newest post at;
  23. For the area below the trunk lid and above the bumper. I had a couple rust spots to repair and when I was stripping the area of paint found the panel to be full of bondo and the metal difficult to work. If you can read the tape, it's about 32" from left to right at the outer edges of the rust, or 16' from the center. Any size larger would work just fine.
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