Bruce W

I always recommend to start with the easy things first. Maybe you have done these things already? Suggest to remove the light to access the switch and fixture. Using a test light or voltmeter see if you have 6 volts at the wire connection at the light. If you have 6 volts leading to your light your wire is ok. The problem could be the bulb, the switch, the socket or the grounded side of the circuit. To test your grounding you can run a temporary grounded jumper wire from a known ground source and connect it to the switched side of the socket. If the light the light comes you will have to resolve the grounding problem. If you do not have 6v to the light, look under the dash near the right or left side cowl pillar for the wire that leads to the domelight. This wire must be connected to a power source. Most likely the light switch in the dash. My experience has been connection problems/grounding problems. Not so much the wire itself. Best of luck. Hopefully you can find the problem without pulling a new wire.

Neat film. Fun to watch. Thank you for posting.

I forgot to mention my clue to the air leak in the fuel line was I could see air bubbles in the glass sediment bowl on the fuel pump when the car was running.

Something else to consider is an issue related to the fuel supply from the tank. I once had a fuel tank that someone had poured in a product that was designed to line or coat the inside of the tank. After many years this coating began to peel off . Now chunks of coating were floating around and could easily block or partially block off the fuel supply. Another time I had a leak in a fuel line fitting that would allow air to be sucked in and not fuel. Because the leak was above the height of the fuel tank it did not leak fuel. It only sucked air. In both of these cases my car would run but it was hard to start. Anyway, that's two more ideas. If you find the problem please let us know. Most everyone has had a similar problem at one time or another. Best of luck.

These are photos of the seat tracks in my 40 Plymouth convertible. If I happen to come across another set I will let you know. As I said, the sliders appear to be the same as other similar vintage. You might be able to modify the legs/stands to lie flat like these..

I prefer the old way the cars for sale were listed. I am interested in all old cars and not just one manufacturer. As it was, I liked to see the variety of cars for sale listed in one place. It was an opportunity to be exposed to cars I know less about. Learning about cars and expanding my horizons makes the hobby interesting. As it is set up now it is difficult to wade through all of the classifications. I probably miss a lot of interesting cars for sale. I do like the breakout by manufacture for parts and topics related to a specific brand. I enjoy the AACA forums and I appreciate the contacts I have made through the forums. I get it now..... I guess I was just a little lost. Thank you Peter for the explanation.

I think the second one looks right. I have seen this pattern on another restored car. If anyone has an original, I would still like to see it. I will be taking the seat out of my car later this week and will post some pictures of the seat tracks. From what I can see the tracks are the same for all cars. The difference is in the feet/legs.

Something to consider on the timing cover seal, If you happen to have a chain cover from a 1937-42 mopar laying around you could install that and use a modern neoprene type seal. You might have to relocate the timing mark tab. I am not sure about the main bearing seal. What you show looks right but I don't claim to be an expert.

Fortunately I have the seat I need. What I am not sure of is the proper stitching on the seat covers and the door panels. You may already know this, the floor of the convertible is raised nearly 4" to accommodate the subframe therefore the side panels of the convertible seat are shorter than the coupe or sedan seat. The convertible seat track is also flat and not inclined like the coupe or sedan. I do think the coupe/sedan split seat could be modified to work if needed. I have attached a couple of pictures of what I am talking about. The seat with the mohair is from a coupe.

I am wanting to replace the non-original interior in my 1940 Plymouth P10 Convertible. Does anyone out there have an unrestored p10 convertible with the original interior intact? I would really appreciate any photos you might be able to provide. Any help or guidance is much appreciated. Thank you.

I have been to Jack's Auto Ranch many times. One of a few yards around here that still have old cars. I recommend to give them a call to see if they have what you are looking for. Reasonable prices too.

Selling my 1934 Plymouth PF Coupe. https://madison.craigslist.org/cto/d/belleville-1934-plymouth-coupe/7199978530.html Car is located in New Glarus WI. Asking price $16,900.

This is from a 1937 Desoto chip chart. Probably the same for 1938..

Many good suggestions here. I have had success with a good sealant applied to thoroughly cleaned threads. A key step is to thoroughly clean both the bolt threads and the threads in the block with a clear solvent like acetone. Use a clean rag or paper towel with the solvent and then dry with a clean paper towel then blow with air. Make sure every surface is clean and dry. Then apply the sealant to the threads, then install. I have had good luck using non-hardening black permatex on the threads. I like to wait over night before adding the oil so the permatex and any gasket sealer or silicone at the front or rear of the pan has time to set. In agreement with others, the pan surfaces that mate to the block must be flat.

No comment on the price. Just put it in the ad.

This will unclog any drain!

I know about the black engine block. I painted this silver based on evidence the block was never painted black. I bought the car last Fall from an 83 year old gentleman who bought the car from the original owner in 1962. (The title I received was dated 1962 signed by him) Some time in the 1990's he did a cosmetic restoration of the car. At that time he changed the color from the original Palm Beach Gray to the Red you see in the photos. He did no mechanical restoration of the car. When I got it, naturally there were some oil leaks I wanted to fix. When I removed the tappet covers I saw what looked like 80 years of sludge so I decided to rebuild the engine. I believe the engine had never been apart. It was a standard bore. The pistons had the DCPC stamp on the top. Prior to removing the engine for rebuild I pressure washed the engine and quickly blew off the thin coating of silver paint that was applied during the cosmetic restoration. Underneath that was more silver paint. The machine shop further cleaned the block in preparation for the rebuild. Deep within the pores of the block casting were traces of silver paint. There was no evidence the block had ever been painted black. The man I bought the car from said the engine had always been silver since he owned it. The PE number on the block matches the PE number stamped on the frame behind the left rear wheel. Has anyone else seen what I am reporting? On a 34 PF I did remove the radiator and shell as one piece without removing the fenders. It wasn't too bad of a job. First I drained it down (Always a mess). Then I removed the bumper and the six or eight bolts that attach the shell to the fenders. This will allow the fenders to spread apart just enough. Then removed the hoses, Then disconnected the rods that connect to the cowl. Then from below removed 2 large nuts that attach the shell frame to the body frame. Then tilt the entire assembly to the front and lift out. It is very heavy and you will surely need a helper. I may have forgotten some minor details but you get the general idea. Luckily no mountains here in Wisconsin. Just few good sized hills. Thanks for the advice. 😀 The carb is a B&B. It might look a little different than most you see. It is my understanding the early version had no support gusset between the float bowl and the air cleaner attachment.

The cable arrived today. Thank you Handleman for digging it out. I soaked it down with mineral spirits followed by another soaking in a light oil. It moves much easier than the cable I had on the car. I can't wait to try it all out. Attached are a couple pics of my project. Other than the color it is pretty much stock original. I am finalizing a mechanical restoration including a complete engine rebuild. The previous owner painted painted the car and reupholstered the interior. I am hoping to have it back on the road some time this Fall.

It looks like I have a cable on the way. Many thanks to all for the replies and helpful advice.

Very interesting. Thank you. I think the tubing will work much better than the bowden cable I was messing around with. I will check the od of some steel brake line and see if I can find something that will work. I like the idea of the soldered wire too. I can see how that might prevent the tubing from slipping around in the clamp. You are right about the timing mark being on the crankshaft/pulley on the PE. In addition to the PE I have a 34 PF. The timing mark on the PF is on the flywheel as your 33. With no mark on the pulley/vibration dampener. It is a different lighter looking pulley. Thank you again for the information and great advice.

Handleman - Next time you are in the abyss I would really appreciate your having a look for that dash knob button cable. Ply-33 - You describe exactly what I have. I am a little confused about the mention of a cable in a tube. I was thinking the shorter cable would be another boden cable like the longer cable from the dash. Because My shorter cable was gone I wasn't sure what it looked like. I like the idea of a cable in tube. The bend from the transmission arm to the spool valve is an "S" shape. The tube may hold its shape better and smoother cable action than the flexing boden cable. Are you able to take a picture of your installed 33 cables near the automatic clutch assembly? Thank you both for you replies.

Hi, I am hoping to find a good free wheeling cable for my 1934 Plymouth PE. Mine has a crushed section and is nearly impossible to pull. I am also looking for the shorter cable that leads from the transmission to the vacuum clutch mechanism. If you have one or both that would be great. Thank you.

I had a 1939 Plymouth with a rumble seat. If I am not mistaken Plymouth was the only Mopar with a rumble seat that year, None after that. Other makes - not so sure.

Hi, I am wondering if you have an extra pair of bugle horn brackets for a 34 Plymouth PE? Thank you

For me it has to be sandblasting large items in my driveway then cleaning up the mess afterward. Followed by cleaning greasy grime parts. I can't mention the worst part without mentioning the best part. The best part is when the project turns the corner and all of the parts have been cleaned, painted and prepped for reassembly. Then, it's like building a new car. Great fun!