Pete K.

Ray, That was a marvel of modern science!

Very good point indeed John. Could this rearview been put on the car at some earlier point? I just don't know. The bracket appears to be a very early assemblage. There must be someone out there who has an early Dodge Brothers touring with or without the mirror or holes to mount one. The few shots of the car in the Mechanic's handbook and the other small reference booklet don't show a mirror in the sedan, nor do they show a picture of the very top of an open cars' windshield!

Jack, Thanks for the opinion and all of these posts here on the Dodge forum is your business if you want them to be. You can't buy experience! The opinions from the guys (and gals) here are always welcome, at least on my threads. Although my Dodge is a touring car with no windows except for the windshield, it does have a teeny rear plastic window when the top is up. I also have other cars and I do know how bad it can be at night with the reflections going every-which-way. It seems like being in a house of mirrors. That is one reason Ford adopted a slant windshield (when closed) in 1931 on some of his cars. General Motors had their "VV" slanted windshield starting around 1929 and was written up in the owner's manual for glare reduction at night. (It really doesn't help all that much). Another reason cars had window shades in the rear! I most likely will ask the auto glass company I deal with to cut a piece of smoked glass for this Dodge mirror. I just didn't want it to look like something from the 1960's. Thanks again.

Well, It's part of an oiler. It is the adjuster for the oiler quantity delivery to the bearing/bushing. Thumb wheel on it adjusts the flow, or drip of the oil passing through it from the main oil tank and pump. These were found on almost every mechanical machine of the early days that relied on oil for lubrication. Cars, trucks, stationary engines, farm equipment, trains, etc...

Mike, I've attached two photo's of my mirror frame assembly, off the car, since I need to replace the glass. The glass appears to be 2-5/16" X 6". I stood a Zippo in front of one photo to try and show the smoked color hue of the cracked glass. The mounting bracket is on the windshield and does not appear to ever been off. It holds the mirror frame by it's long stove bolt that has the wing nut adjuster on it. There was also an old piece of thick paper behind the mirror glass that as you may recall from a very old posting of mine, it is where I found the original key for the transmission lock jammed into. I still don't have anyone to help me with my question whether or not Dodge used a smoked glass or not. I would like to keep the car original as much as I can. I hope this can help you.

No, but if I keep puffing on the butts, it could be me!

I'm finally getting a few little things done on the Dodge and one of them is the cracked glass in the rear view mirror that mounts on the inside center of the windshield frame. I would like to know if the glass originally was smoked grey or regular mirror glass. My very old looking cracked one is smoked grey but I don't know if this could be original or not. I know they had different colored rear views back then since I once had the remnants of a rear view that was gold plated, from the '20's. I thought that was pretty cool, until I kept looking at it more and more and felt like I had just drank a bucket of hot fudge. Won't get one gold plated.

Taylormade, The fellow at the brake place well may have thought your drums "look" thin. They all do. I know of nobody that can determine if a drum is .002 - .025" run-out by just looking at it. From what you describe in your first posting, your drums sound like they're probably OK. Only a measurement will really tell and I know you are looking for that factory specification. I do wish I could help with that. Many older autos that I've come across from the '30's that were on the road 'till the '50's had paper shims installed under the linings. These shims weren't cut out of junior's math homework with mom's kitchen junk drawer scissors either. They were a perfect cut and punch job, I can only assume they were installed by a brake shop, to take up the slack of worn but usable drums. Many cars also used brake bands on the outer surface of each drum to help fading from heat expansion. Some were steel bands, pressed onto drum, some were large spring bands that I think early Buicks used. Dwight Romberger would know this. He owns a '30. With a good lining and perfect adjustment, possibly with the shim paper, I say try them out on your car. I'll bet they'll be OK.

Try Courtesy Metal Polishing in Villa Park. A man named Nino there may know someone if he can't do it.

I can't agree MORE with Tinindian. One can usually find a pinstriper at some of the larger cruise nights or where old cars gather. Check your local old car club too. Save the Beugler for the snow thrower or lawnmower.

Fred, I don't own a '26 Buick, but I've never seen a rear end cover with the filler plug up on top end. I'm sure it goes towards the bottom. Otherwise, the grease would be so high, it would flow into the axles and out through the axle seals into the brakes.

Hey Dwight, As I see, you don't have the take apart plugs. The rust is probably underneath, in the combustion chamber on the end of the plugs. Rusty's advice is a good one with the heat. OR, since you got two out, just spray more, wait more and try again with the wrench. try to use a 6 point, not a 12 point socket. This is a job of patience. P.S.-- How is the overhead rocker assembly lubed? I know later Buicks had a pressure pipe on one end of the rocker pipe but I don't see one here.---Pete

Dennis, I'm kinda thinking out loud here, but I've been in the same situation with old brass like this before. I can tell you NOT to use anything that has ammonia in it like Brasso or Noxon metal polish. One coat of that will leave it spotty and really dig into the patina in places you want to keep. Another no-no is to scrub it with anything harder than the base metal itself. Use brass brush or better yet, nylon bristle brushes. I would start with a good hot soapy bath with warm water to get the loose crud off. ( the helmet horn, not me)... and then, on the back side first, try a cleaner like the old powdered Boraxo hand soap ( the white powdered stuff). OR, try one of the waterless hand cleaners like Fast Orange, with a nylon brush. There's always the school of not cleaning it at all!!! Good luck, Pete.

Well, it's not a Dodge pump up to at least 1926 whereas the earlys had no bolt-to- block flange as yours has.

Oldcar Bearing Co. advertises in Hemmings Motor News usually has any sealed bearing for replacements given the specifications of yours may help them. Many of the old transmissions didn't have seals. They relied on oil slingers on the front and rear of the main shafts. New replacement ball bearings are coming through with factory seals in them already. If you get one with one side of the bearing sealed, that side faces toward the outside of trans. You still need to place the old slingers in their original place, facing the proper way too. Gaskets were predominantly all paper gaskets. These can be cut using a roll of gasket paper found at most auto stores today for about 5 bucks, enough to do many gaskets. There is brown paper rolls and black paper rolls. The black is oil proof paper. You really don't need it on an old tranny, since there's no pressure in their case. They are vented to atmosphere. I use the brown paper on the old trans.

I told you, " If you let Ellwood drive, it was really gunna hit the fan!"

This Mississippi mud's so bad, this is the top car on our dealer's car carrier.

You're not kidding about a goldmine!

Hmmm... A lot of good ideas here. But some folks cannot have a cat, dryer sheets seem to work on "sometimes". Poison in the car IS a BAD idea, Snap traps work well, but only good for one at a time and they can be inadvertently stepped on by kids, pets...I know of a pretty good trap. Using a large plastic bucket with two holes drilled through the top edge to make an "axle" for a dowel to span across through the two holes, but first, place a can that's been drilled out on the top & bottom on that dowel/axle so it spins (horizontally) and coat the middle of the can with peanut butter. Now add water to the bucket. You WILL have mice in the bucket when they climb up a stick from the ground to the end of the dowel to get over to the can with the bait on it. The can will spin, mice will fall and drown. This is foolproof.

I could count on one hand, how many parts are actually worth pulling off the car for resale. Do you think those wheels are original? BUT.. the "reserve hasn't been met". My My.

Thanks tons, Ron & Jay! I'll go with the Dodge info from your book. I want to apologize to taylormade for the serious hijacking of this thread by me.Maybe there's some tidbit to learn from in my tube rantings.---Pete.

I'm really "stuck" trying to find decent tubes for my '25 Dodge. The 5.25 X 21" tires are Vietnam made, but seem OK. The date code on them is 010213, if I see this correctly. Numbering is barely legible. Tubes are a whole different story as I posted before. The crummy 5 "EEC" tubes I returned went OK, they gave me a full refund, no questions asked. So.. I order ONE tube now, from a different company, with the correct center brass stem for a trial inspection and fit. IT'S THE SAME EEC TUBE! I give up! Before I mounted it in my tire with the rim & liner today using talc in the casing and soap solution around the bead. After inspecting it for defects, I didn't see any and put about 5 lbs. air in it. Poor thing looked like a dark grey "O" ring. They also have a rough feel to the rubber and stiff, unlike older tubes that are smooth and really rubbery. I've been acquainted with tube tires on old cars since 1970. I ran out of time today so tomorrow I'll put the air chuck to the tire, inflate to 30 lbs, deflate it & bounce it around a bit to help put the tube at home then re-inflate to 32 lbs. and see if it holds. QUESTION; does anyone know what the correct pressure is for the tires? The tire salesmen do not know. It isn't in the owner's manual. I'm guessing at the correct pressure. not good, but I must be in the neighborhood at 32 lbs.

Trimacar, Thanks, I just read your #12 post 1/2 Hr, ago and still laughing!!!!!!

Not earlier Buick. not 1929-1931.

Hello cahartley, Where did you get the tubes and tires for your Dodge Brothers?