Pete K.

I don't have a fuel pump on my '25, but as I remember, yours should come off if you push down on the big cupped washer on the diaphragm to "unhook" it from the actuating arm down underneath. Sometimes you have to push down and out a bit while making sure you don't push on the pump lever section that goes inside the engine. It makes life easier.

Agree with Mike, it sounds to me to be a short IN the Clum switch or wiring thereof. If you remove the Clum switch, you may see fine imprinted lettering for each screw terminal and where they go. Mike's right about the insulated coil back there too. (headlights). If your coil is heating up, that is a pretty sure sign that your primary ign. is NOT opening, allowing the coil to heat when the points are closed and not running. You can always check this out by slipping a piece of business card between the ign. points and use a volt/Ohm meter to verify. Coil should not heat up when not running. Your amp gauge should be showing a discharge if this is the problem but I'm not sure about all your wiring, I would definitely unhook your battery at night or when you leave the car. This short could start a fire. I'm sure you know this.---Pete. PS, I would also check or change out your dist. condenser. it may be shorted.

Peter, Here's some pictures of my '25 Dodge Tourer. It is a July '25 build date which makes it a 1926 "Series". This can be a bit confusing. Note the rear door hinge configuration is opposite of your Dodge. Maybe the export cars had this difference. This car is somewhat original, it's been "cleaned up" back in the 1960's including a green paint job of the body whereas it was originally black. It runs well now after an entire cleanout and rebuild of the fuel system. I agree that the Permatex #2 (or loctite may work OK), should help with your stud leak. The Permatex compound is thick, brown, non-hardening and I have been using this for 40 years with good results. The label on the tube of Permatex is actually called "Form-A-Gasket". I know in Germany there is probably even a better compound like this. I'm so sorry about the language confusion, hopefully your daughter will come home to help! If my Grandfather was with us, we would have no problem. He came from Germany. Very best regards, and a Happy Easter too,"Peter K." in the USA. P.S. to machinist Bill, Thanks!

Hello Peter, This is another "Peter K." in Massachusetts, USA. Your Dodge looks great. I notice the rear door on your car opens the opposite way mine does on the '25. P.S. is there any way you can get a translator with you? I don't speak German. Best of luck, Peter.

Apparently, the '25 TOURING was available in black only. Other body styles were offered in different colors. My '25 touring had a "spruce-up" job done on it's body back in the 1960's. It's body was re-painted green with red pin stripe. I've looked closely and I can see the original BLACK paint here & there under the green. This car is a mid-July 1925 build, making it a 1926 "SERIES".

I've seen known originals to have black, dark blue or dark green bodies, all with with black fenders. There were probably other colors too. If you're not trying to stick with complete originality, paint the car any color you want it to be. There is at least one gentleman on this forum that may have the original color paint chip chart for the earlier Dodges. Hope he sees this.

Bill, I was very surprised to see that gauge in your photo's. I was all set to send off pictures of my '25 gauge face for you, but it's nothing like yours! I'm not even sure what that gauge face looked like. Anyway, a word to the wise; while your gauge appears to be open to the tank itself, any decals or most paints will all but "go away" in a short time when their encapsulated under the glass face with those gas fumes under it, working all the time crinkling up the paint or the thin decal. This happened to me when I repainted my '25 gauge face. It is a brass plate, numerals and logo are "raised" on the brass face, but background is supposed to be black. Before I put it back in my tank, it was beautiful. Two weeks later, It was not even legible. AND a big mess of gooey black paint. I re did it with some black paint that was so-called "gas proof" and it still is OK now.

Mark, That is a really cool original car you've got. If you can't decide what to do about the restoration at this stage of the game, I would just get the mechanicals re-done at your pace and drive it for a while. You may be very surprised what everyone may say about the "only car here" at whatever show you're at, "is a real survivor". In time you may decide to go for a new paint job, or a full blown restoration. I'm really sorry to hear your shop was lost in a fire. That's a devastating loss. Glad to hear you're up and running again. Best of luck!!, Pete.

A basic coil is just that---A COIL. It does not need to have a name of the car on it. The thread is questioning "NO SPARK". This may be a problem if he's using a new coil bought from a local supplier, especially if that coil is imported from a questionable country of origin. The same with points and condensers. Another point about new, replacement ignition parts-- It HAS BEEN FOUND that some new points have had the flat point arm spring cut wrong and has shorted out against ground. If you think this is hogwash or just Internet hearsay--you're wrong. We have no way to know exactly what he or someone, has replaced in the car's ignition system. These are things to look closely at.

The information comes from me and about 10 other guys on another forum for Model A Fords. As I stated, "Modern replacement coils" being sold for the 6 volt Fords, which are "upsidedown" are having this problem. VW's, Ghia's, etc... may use a Bosch coil replacement or whatever and built better for that adaption. Apparently, the PCB "tar" in the older coils and foreign coils did the job OK, the new PCB-free heat sink filler isn't.

I'll bet anyone a cigar that aint a Franklin.

A word about new coils; The modern replacement coils don't like being mounted "upsidedown", with the outputs being on the bottom, facing down. The "oil" or cooling heatsink in the coil will heat up, normally, and flow away from the windings that create heat, ending the life of said coil in no time. The old firewall mounted coils didn't seem to have a proximity problem. One of the most common causes of burning out a coil is the low tension wires are fastened on backward. Try swapping terminals. (+)--- (-). The original coil in the early Dodge Brothers car (12v.) is just that- a coil of wire around an iron core, dropped into the iron body with the gasketed cover on top and connected up to the top cover terminal plate. If you read the Owner's manual, it states "That if moisture in the coil is causing no spark, remove coil from housing and place it in an oven on low for a short time, just enough to dry out any condensation". I'd love to see something like that written up in a new cars' manual!!! Just make sure your baked potatoes are on other side of oven rack.---Pete.

Yes, I found a good Northeast coil amongst my parts here. I even am running an original "tin can" condenser in the dist. body. Runs fine. There is no ballast resistor on my Dodge, whereas none shown in the original wiring diagram either. This car is designed to run on 12 volts. The condenser is the only part that protects the points from over-arcing and burning, also a condenser, when correct Microfarad spec's are in place, it will keep the metal of one point arm from "electrolytic action", or PITTING, transferring metal of one contact and building up on the other point arm contact. There IS a way to check your condenser if original is not known, for your specific engine. If you run the car for a while, usually one season, you'll notice a small "pit" in one point contact and a build-up of metal on the other point. Now, if your condenser is electronically under the Microfarad spec, the metal will be built up on your hot side point, (the movable arm) and a pit develops in the stationary arm point contact. If your condenser is way over the capacitance specification, metal will be noted building up on the other point, (stationary point arm) and a pit will be on the movable "hot" arm point contact. Most condensers are of the .20 to .25 Microfarad capacity, it's voltage should be well over the highest known point voltage of your car's ignition system, I would say 25% higher. Actually, ANY higher voltage capacitor will work, it will just be physically larger to the point of crazy big. I don't mean to hijack this thread, but this info may help someone.

Most coils today for older cars have an "R" suffix in part number, usually the factory sticker on the coil itself to signify it has an internal resistor. I have no ballast resistor on my '25, 12 volt system. It doesn't need one. A condenser is on a car only to protect the points from excessive arcing & burning the points. Body of condenser is ground, wire goes to hot side of points, (the movable arm). The original half-moon can type condensers on the old Dodges had two small terminals, one (+) other (-) that were wired inside the distributor body. A bad condenser can cause problems, if shorted it will bleed off your spark, backfiring, rough running...same if the condenser is "open" circuit.

Is your '17 originally a 6V. or 12V. system? A resistor has no polarity.

I'm 99% sure the US built Chevy's, domestic sales included, bumpers were an option as late as 1929/'30. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong. The Ford Model A was the best known car that used the split rear bumper,IMO. Ford DID offer a full-length rear bumper at one time during the A Model run.

I agree with stakeside-- A beautiful truck with "patina" you just can't fake. The raised paneling is super. Wish I had the room for it.

Ray, I see many old time photo's of our type cars around and many do not have bumpers. It must have been a carry-over from the horse & buggy days whereas they had no bumpers (rears anyway). Many aftermarket companies had bumpers to adapt to different cars, I believe I have one here somewhere. Bumpers were of course an option for buyers too. I'm under the impression our '25/'26 Dodge bumpers were a "package deal" if a Deluxe was ordered, along with the cowl lights, nickeled lamp bezels & nickeled rad. shell. Many "outback" countries where these cars were driven are depicted without the bumpers. My guess is that a stump or some hazzard may bend the bumper inward to catch on the tire, which would slow up the "safari" or something. Someone here must have to know about your query pertaining to export cars and their bumpers.

Hello Ray! Like your new avatar. I think I found the post you're looking for. It was by forum member Jason, "1930" back on May 10th, 2013. He posted his E-mail , jhason2@yahoo.com so he can give out the number of the man with the parts for sale. He claims to have truckloads of '26 parts including bumper brackets. As you may know, those gall dang brackets never bend, they BREAK. I went through this on my '25 front brackets and got things right finally. Best regards, Pete.

I don't know if I'd go to that work if there's only 15-20 thou. wear. I'd leave 'em.

If that Hemi can be repaired along with the car finished, I think it's a cool '50's hotrod. It wasn't done lately from what I read about it. Personally, I only deal with and own strictly original oldies. NO cutting torches near my iron, ever, if I can help it. I'm in the process of tracking down an original 1932 Ford pickup, near me, before a "chopper" gets his bloody hands on it.

rayjay, You gave me a good description of the problem. Only two ideas are going through my mind now, one being the carb internals. I know this carb. I know you said you checked the choke when you checked the whole carb, BUT... are you positive the internal rack and pinion gears are not stripped or broken for the choke mechanism? Also, the central needle valve was just center peened loosely, 1/16th", to the piston and is very prone to busting off. You can't see this 'till the carb comes completely apart. I've found this happened on two old Dodge carbs (Detroit Lubricators). It's all the carbon I see in your photo's which is leading me to this conclusion. Other than that said, Are you running an original coil and condenser? The "backfiring" is a telltale sign of a bad condenser, if the engine timing is verified good. I would double check the internals of the distributor/wiring to & from points/condenser, also your dist. flyweights for advance, if the '17 had those, as I'm not positive about that in 1917 cars. Like folks say, "most fuel problems are electrical"!!! Best regards, Pete.

Before you start changing fuel lines here, check your compression. You may have a few stuck valves. They stick pretty easily on these engines if it was not running for even one season. You really don't need any compression gauges if you don't have one, just remove plugs, put your thumb over each plug hole and have a helper crank the engine by hand. When piston comes up on compression stroke, it will try to pop your thumb off the hole. Each cylinder should be about the same. Good enough for combustion. The car has a vacuum tank I would imagine it still does... if you can drain it then prime it with fresh gas, that will tell you lots of things too. It will tell you the car will run from the vac. tank down. Problem would be from the vac. tank BACK. Make sure no mice have built a nest clogging your exhaust pipe or other restrictions. Hopefully, your ig. system is OK and starting/running procedures are followed as in the manual. Check for any degrading/air leaks around manifold. Ask if you don't know how this check is done. Personally, I would first check your vacuum tank innards for proper working order. If it's valving is hung up or sticking, it will fill and engine vacuum will suck the fuel through the engine vacuum line and flood your engine. Sounds a lot like this is happening here with your car. Sometimes you can feel that line when car is running and it will feel cold because the raw fuel is travelling through it and into the engine. I've covered about everything here without seeing the car, hope you have luck.

These horns were used on early trucks, usually pre- 1920. Before generators or even batteries. Power for plugs was from a magneto. Hand crank start. Lighting was gas and/or kerosene. Horns were mechanical. Cars of that era would have polished brass "bulb horns", cheaper cars did have painted mechanical horns too. The "T" handle appears to be welded on at a later date.

An educated guess on torque for the cast iron head/block would be around 55 foot Lbs. on each stud nut.