Pete K.

I can't agree more with trimacar. I have noted that many of my old "barn finds" had wrong replacement brake linings put on the shoes. They were the hard, asbestos moulded linings. These would gloss over for one thing, and less forgiving on irregular worn drums. The only type lining that should be on these early cars are the woven material type, sometimes referred as Scandinavian linings with brass fibers interwoven in them. These ARE available today, along with the brass rivets for them.

Years ago, tire sales houses offered seconds for a lower price. I believe this practice is now gone. May still be able to purchase whitewalls that are "blemished" for cheaper money. The tire you show, is history.

Mike, I don't see any welting at all. There maybe a strip of friction tape between the fender & body where it mates up. Let me know if you need a photo of this assembly,---Pete.

One thing I've not seen mentioned, are you making sure you have the steering wheel mounted spark advance lever fully in the "retard" position when timing?

OK, A little bit more investigation tells me these are not side curtain snaps, as I mentioned there was no flare on them to join to a female half. These things are TENSIONERS. They get turned with a screwdriver to lock in the upright curtain rods. If one looks down the rod socket, there is a split in the metal tube where it acts as a space to open and close a tiny bit to hold the side curtain rods in the sockets! Who would've figgurred? I don't know why your doors seem to have the sockets away from them?

"Don't weld up those holes"!!! Judging the originality of my '25, there are these brass fasteners in those holes. They are presumed to be for the curtains, I haven't fitted the original ones I have for the car onto it yet since I am missing the 4 upright rods that go in the door sockets.. These "fasteners" I photographed for us don't seem to have any flare to them, as I photo'd one from above to show the straight sides of the little guy. They have a screw slot in each one, they are blind from the inside of doors.

Some noises like that can be a worn camshaft thrust bearing, allowing the cam to walk front to rear with an irregular tick or thud. That can be heard at the front of the engine. It sure sounds like a busted link on chain though. It's hard to say when I can't hear it myself. If you're running the engine without the crank hole cover on, you can hear everything going on in the crankcase. It's a direct opening to the bottom end. Have you checked the fan belt for any delaminations? I hope it's one of those simple things.

There's that word again... Where be my Funk & Wagnall? Yes, I understand the experimentation with the electric pumps. I had one on my '27 Packard for a while until I bit the bullet and "fully" restored the vacuum tank. No need ever again for the electric pump and it was still working fine, years later when I sold the car. I guess I should thank my lucky stars when I restored the vac. tank on my '25 last year, she works the bomb. There's not much to it. It only uses engine vacuum to operate the tank and fill it a quarter way with fuel, plenty enough to keep the tiny float bowl happy. As long as Earth has gravity...

Pulch what?? OK, you woke me up. Your problem on loss of power & backfiring is NOT the vacuum tank in entirety. If you think you are not getting fuel to the bottom section of the tank, you will soon eventually burn up what's left in the float bowl, and "run out of gas". The engine will virtually die quietly and coast to the side of the road, hopefully. Owning Ford Model A's, I am guilty of forgetting to turn the cabin fuel cock "on" a few times and within 100 yards the little Ford, (not so much different than our Dodge engine), quietly dies. I turn on the valve and she starts right up. No coughing, backfiring or long moments of loss of power. I do believe you have other problems, possibly a combination of the big three, "spark-fuel- compression" Installation of another type fuel pump is not necessary and a waste of resources. I think it may be the carb you have Ray.--Just a guess. Please don't take this as sniffy. ---Pete.

Mike, yes, it IS a big mess with the little cover off and car running. Obviously Dodge of '25 has no problem with front oil circulation. Your question is a good one... the water pump gear will have to have a bit of backlash, .003" to be exact.

Good advice so far, maybe remove the thermostat completely and see what happens on a hot day.

Starting RPM??---Anything over zero RPM to make a spark and pull in mixture to the cylinders. Ever try hand cranking an engine? "It works".

I have two engines with tranny's, this one shown missing water pump & fan. $350. Another one taken apart but in good shape, no carb. or top water connector. $450. I cannot ship. Pick up in Danvers, Ma.

An engine swap?

Hi Griffin69, I believe you have a 1925 Dodge Brothers Deluxe Roadster, (series of 1926). Perhaps one of the nicest ones around too. The cylinder head number you show in one photo does not identify the year of the car. The engine number is on the flat area of the engine block, just above the carburetor. The only "true" way to date your car is the number stamping on the frame, on the passenger's side, just above the leaf spring hanger behind the front wheel. It will read, A- XXXXXX.(six digits) The car is definitely not a '22, as the rear fenders are completely different on the '22. I have a pair here. The wheel size was larger too on the '22's. Yours appears to have 21" rims. P.S., your English is just fine. Best regards, Peter.

I see that the engine is using the earlier type starter/generator with the fuse on the rear and cable on rear also, like the '22 had. The '25 model "GA" has the fuse on front top body along with the cable on connection on rear "side' of starter/gen. Neither the '22 nor the '25 has the oil filler tube like the one I see in your picture. Carburetor and vacuum tank looks correct for the '25. Vacuum tank fuel shut off is '25. Right side engine view is exactly like my '25 engine, WITH the flywheel inspection hole for timing purposes. (cover plug is missing in photo). only the spark plug wire holder on manifold is different, could be a home-brew set-up. Your 4-blade fan is 1925-1926-, the '22's all had a 6 blade fan. Anyway, I've seen PLENTY of typo's, (errors), on vehicle paper work. Best to check your vehicle number which is on the frame side behind the front right wheel, usually above the spring hanger. It can be very hard to read, since Dodge stampings were light and a restorer may have sanded down number even more and painted over it again.

If frame number is the same as toe board number, A646559 would be a May 15,1926 build. (My '25 is # A388850, a 1925 build for the 1926 SERIES, with 12 volt positive ground system.) The mounting stud for the fan would be on the engine block for 1922, later engines had the fan stud on the cylinder head. Your car's body style would be considered a "Roadster", not a two-door, here in this country. Perhaps a "two-door Roadster" would be a satisfactory description. Your car has a 116 inch wheelbase, 2 passenger, weighs 2,432 LBS., The Rated load for your car is 1000 Lbs. Cylinder bore is 3-7/8" with a 4-1/2" stroke, horsepower rated at 24.03, (but develops 30-35 "brake h.p.", not used in registering car.) I was under the assumption all '26 Dodges went over to the 6 volt system and did away with the "starter/generator". the engines used a different manifold that also incorporated an air filter. Can someone please back this up?

Cars in that good of shape, original as I may say, are very hard to find now and in the future. Most of the "cruise nights" around here anyway, are filled with newer cars and fiberglass hotrods. I'm getting bored to tears looking at the hundreds of them. You've got a real antique car there and I'll bet you'll have a ball driving it around town. Roll-up windows and a heater!! I'm envious!

I've done 3 of those carbs so far. Most of the time, you won't need anything more than a new gasket set. Soak parts in Berrymans carb cleaner gallon can overnight, or a bit longer, scrub loose crud away and wash parts in kerosene, replace bent screws and bolts, DON'T use any metal wires or drills in the jet orifices! toothpick OK, nylon brushes. Any broken parts can be repaired at your shop or call Myers Dodge Parts for original parts if needed. I believe he has some stashed away.

I'll stay with my dusty rusty originals any day. All the power to the owner though, for his hard work. I hope he enjoys it.

That's got to be one of the cleanest I've ever seen! You're very lucky to latch onto it, a big congratulations!! Post more pic's!

Looks great! That is one big frame. I know what you mean by not getting that paint on your skin. Nothing takes that off. Once while using that paint on a frame I was doing, I knew enough to use rubber gloves, BUT--it was a hot, humid day, I was wearing shorts and leaned into the frame paint with my shin. For 2 months, people thought I had some kind of weird tattoo or a strange black birthmark on the side of my leg. At least I didn't ruin a pair of long pants!

I don't have a magneto on my cars here, so I have to ask, do you folks that have a mag, do you also have a choice with the dash switch, like the Ford T, to switch it to battery ignition only? Does the problem subside then? Ray, I remember the mags have a tiny drill mark in the large gear to mate with the small driven gear so the MAG is timed right... Is that OK?

Yes Jay, disconnect at engine bay instead of behind dash if you don't want your floor boards well lubed. When I blew out my oil feed tube, I didn't see anything but a few drops of clean oil exit.

When using compressed air to blow out the oil feed tube, you must disconnect the line at the oil pressure gauge. Very likely you will spring the gauge assembly with the air pressure.