Pete K.

That's a nice Dodge you have. I'm sorry that I don't know of a kit for that interior. I had a '30 Buick 4-door sedan that I restored back in the '70's and I bought the yardage of grey mohair from a New York firm and had a local auto upholstery shop do it. I seem to remember it was around $1000. in 1973. It was beautiful though. That was seats, headliner, carpeting and panels. If you've got the original pieces of upholstery to use as a template, LeBaron-Bonney will sell the fabric and possibly make up some of the pieces for you to install it. Good luck!

Yup! That's where I store things like the tools and crank. Book may be there too. I know I would like to see more of that sedan. An engine compartment shot would be much appreciated!! If the car hasn't been drained of fuel since '94, or even '04 for that matter, shine a flashlight beam into tank to first confirm you've got a clean tank. Back when that car was restored, fuel was different. Folks would use a sloshing compound, or "tank sealer" that is now NOT COMPATIBLE with the re-formulated gas. When "new gas" is used now, the sealer turns to a thick sludge that is the WORST job to deal with. Don't ask me how I learned this. If you see a clean, shiny tank, go to church next Sunday.

I've got a pair of what I believe are '31 Pontiac wire wheels out in the yard and they look just like those you have. I'll try and post a picture of the rims tomorrow if I can get the snow off them.

That IS a great car! Have you tried to find any books that may have been put in a desk or in the car somewhere? The 8-1/2" X 5-1/2" "Book Of Information" is a must for the Dodge owner. It came with each car when new. It's about 120 pages with pictures. It is also termed the Owner's manual. You can learn boatloads about your car with that little book. Myer's Early Dodge Parts sell reprints and also Romar's Dodge Parts too. Both good people to know. Good luck with the sedan.

I sure could be mistaken, but it sounds like those ARE the right wire wheels for that car. A picture would be great to see...

I agree with the "Keiz", Sewing machine perhaps. White Truck Co. always had their logo in a written "script" as far as I know.

Yes, Those old floats do develop leaks. I test mine in a bowl of very hot water in my kitchen. Once submerged, the hot water expands the air in float and you'll see a tiny air bubbles at a leak. Have a marker pen at hand to circle the area leaking. Don't hold it under long, so as you don't let water into the float. If water gets in the float, you need to drill a tiny hole, usually at the soldered seam (I do anyway), to drain water out. You can carefully heat the float to "steam-out" water. Sometimes I let float sit for a few days with a tiny wire set into the drill hole facing bottom. Then solder up your drill hole using a minimum amount of solder. I've had success doing this on a few old car floats and it saves a lot of bucks!

Well, here's some photo's of this old engine's oil filler pipe. It's kinda hard to see, but the underlaying green paint under the black has been scratched off near the base and shows sorta like a galvanized finish? I would have to guess to say that this part was painted SOME kind of color. I snapped a shot of the front end of engine to show the light yellow/ green, but the photo came out way too light. This was covered with an inch of grease and grime. "many years" of crud. When I scraped and wiped down my engine splash aprons, there was rust and a trace of black paint here and there, but the finish is definitely Galvanized on the steel aprons.

One thing I missed in your post Richard; I hope you don't refer to the modern gas you are using, otherwise known as E-85. Don't ever put that crap in your old cars.

Some internal problems I've seen with the Stewart carb in question are; Stripped teeth on pinion gear, Metering pin broken loose from piston, clogged passages in piston and metering head. Bungled up metering pin seat, Carbon crud build up on metering head and stem (this has to float freely up & down). Mis-adjusted choke lever arm to rack & pinion assembly. Air leaks at main body and throttle shaft. I'm not even getting into the float chamber.

My 1925 tourer runs fine with modern crap gas, regular unleaded, with only a few ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil in tank too. You need to adjust the bellcrank on bottom of carb where choke wire is fastened to on the shaft that controls the fuel metering piston. I have no idea if your carb is either rebuilt or in "Known good condition". There could be an internal problem. The tall , ribbed screw on that is for fine tuning only.You shouldn't be carboning up that bad. If the smoke is all black, that's gas you're burning. blueish/white is oil burning. That engine won't have a big problem with fresh gas, it's not burning "too hot" with modern gas. You need to pull plugs and clean them, adjust them, they may be carboned up. Your spark lever is down for starting car, up when she's running. It has no effect on your fuel/air mixture. Only the dash control for mixture is your choke button.

Randy, I'll have to check into that dark green on my oil filler further for us both to figure this out. I'll try to post a picture later today. The carb neck is supposed to be engine color. Mine is painted black, (my own doing), as I needed the carb back on engine to get it running after I rebuilt it and had none of the odd-ball engine paint at the time. I have seen a few original carbs of that era and they were engine color.

I checked my '25 oil filler tube assembly, knowing the old black repaint job was all scratched and base color shows it was olive green, but it is darker green than the strange yellowish-grey/green of the engine which appears to be original.

Very well put Jason! I was wondering Ray, Do you have the top saddles for your car so as the top can be put down? Without them, one risks serious injury to the whole top. Original top saddles are next to impossible to obtain for a specific car. There were "left & right" too. I've been working for a long time to make "re-pro" Dodge top saddles that would work for roadsters also. I have a working model here for my '25 and ready to find a friendly machine shop to make some of the parts. These don't look like the originals, but they would work and be very inexpensive!! I know some owners have the original saddles and NEVER put the top down! This is like the girl at the beach who never gets her bathing suit wet.

Hi Ray, If it's any help, as MikeC5 offered too, I can post a few pictures tomorrow of the top and bows on my '25 tourer. It is a Budd bodied car, (A388850, 1926 build date), but I would have to believe the top would be the same used on your '26. Different body makers would have to be held to specific dimensions so that other Dodge factory designed parts would fit, like the width of seat springs, carpet sets, splash aprons, THE TOP, and so on. I don't see why you can't keep using your one piece windscreen. Don't forget, as we get older, our bones shrink and you'll eventually fit just right by the time you and I finally replace the top fabric on our tourers!

Hi Ray!, Yes, I remember Arthur very well. I grew up in the small town of Lynnfield, Ma. I believe he bought it from Dr. Worthen years ago, or had it stored in his barn. I remember seeing it there about 40 years ago down on Locust St. in Lynnfield, where the old photo of the unrestored Grout was taken within the cable TV interview, you kindly "patched on" there in your post. Arthur's got to be in his 90's now. I didn't know he ever finished the Grout. He also has a 1918 (?) Lancia roadster. Thanks very much for your post Ray. Best to you, Pete.

I thought I'd throw my 2 cents in here. I've been restoring a 1931 Ford Model A Town sedan for the last 16 years. Not actively, but Have a rolling chassis with a set of Goodyear All Weather Diamond Treads, 4.75 X 19's. I bought the tubes and tires from Universal in 1999 with the correct metal "clamp-in" Schrader valve stems. I restored the wheels and mounted rubber, inflated them, (5), to 35 lbs. THEN stored all of them in a cool dark place until 2012. I found two completely flat! De-mounted those two and found the bridge clamp nut was not tightened enough. Put a wrench on them and re inflated to 35 lbs last spring. All 4 tires on chassis haven't lost one lb. as of today. My '25 Dodge I found last spring has ORIGINAL brass valve stems still on it. None of them leak. The tires are so bad, the cords are showing through cracks in rubber big enough to put your finger in. Bottom line here--- I trust the old and old style metal stems, and they look great too.

Grant, I'm up here in the Boston, Massachusetts area, "New England" to most folks. Gas now at $3.70 or there 'bouts. Went up 5 - 8 cents /gallon in the last week. Same old excuses... A short 4 years ago it was $1.80/ gallon. "A WICKED BIG GYP" but don't get me going, I'll get booted off the forum.

Looks like an after market to me. I believe I've seen this one listed in one of the old J C Whitney catalogs in the 1960's and '70's.

Hadees made many hot water heaters for after market installation and perhaps they were under contract with various auto makers that put their name plate on them. They were a large firm.

Richard, speaking of "taking a back seat" with the Dodge, I'm shooting off a picture of the robe rail in my '25 tourer. It is solid 1/2 inch steel, two end bends, nothing fancy. I'm thinking it is original, but I can't compare it to another unless someone else pipes in. This could be easily made right in your own shop. You're going to love that Dodge car. I'm thinking your car has the same "Budd" bodied all steel assembly as my '25. NO squeaky, rotten wood in body at all!

When on U-Tube, check out the 1939 "COLOR" films, "Sandy Blvd. and 28th, Portland, Ore. 1939". I thought Boston driver's were bad! A lot of very close calls and great old cars.

I clicked on the photo and when enlarged, it's very easy to read. I think that stamp is pretty neat!

I once owned a 1927 Packard, ( Series 426), that used Watson's just like the one you pictured, as standard equipment. Yes, they do work and I find them necessary to keep the axles from pinging up and down after hitting an uneveness on the road. I had the wrench, maybe still do, marked "Watson Stabilizer Wrench" on it. It was about 10" long, flat steel and had a box end to fit the hex adjustment fitting on the side of the stabilizer while the other end had a funny 90 degree arc shaped bend to it. Never had to use it. Be careful disassembling a Watson. I remember there is a very strong spring in body that can be a real spoiler if it flies out.

Great looking Dodge Richard! Someone put a lot of money and time into the restoration, I wish my seats and top were as nice as yours. I don't believe the colors are correct for a Dodge of that era, but again, it looks good. The vacuum tank system is a good, dependable system when restored. I like the lower, secondary fuel shut-off valve-- I'd leave it be. The car looks very good with the Ford Model A "Tea Cup" tail lights, a big difference from the original one which was on the left side only, which was a drum style body lamp that had a bracket from the frame tail. I also really like the chromed windshield stanchions! The back of the front seat originally had a hinged rail, or rack to hold a blanket, known as a "lap robe" for warmth for the mother-in-law in the back seat. As far as the "paraffin" goes, I take it is a bottle of oil. Over here in the States, paraffin usually congers thoughts of a solid chunk of wax. There is paraffin based oils, usually for sewing machines and so forth, yours was probably used for oiling the horn bearings along with the oiler on the rear of the starter/generator, and the distributor. Keep us posted and ask any questions you have. See if you can buy a reprint manual in your area OR from Myer's Early Dodge & Romar's Dodge Parts here in the states. "The Book Of Information" and the "Mechanic's Handbook" for your '24 is invaluable. Good luck!---Pete.