Buicknutty

Todd; The pancake gadget on the distributor is called the "vacuum advance" and is part of the ignition system and changes the spark advance as you accelerate. Keith

Todd; Read through your thread and lots of good advice is being offered. Here are a few of my own thoughts. Going back to your stalling issue, if I've read through correctly, you mentioned that you had gassed up a bit before it stalled on you, and that there wasn't gas at first, but then it fired up and has ran fine? I can't help but wonder if you got something in the new gas, dirt or water that caused it to stall, then the cranking eventually cleared it. Just a guess. I've driven these 50's Buicks since the 70's and have always used the stock mechanical pump and I've driven my '56 Roadmaster extensively over the last 30 years. If you get a pump rebuilt, make sure that has materials that are resistant to the modern fuels. Electric pumps are of kind of like religion, you're either a believer, or not. They work fine, but so can the mechanical ones. I live in Toronto, Ont., and summers get hot, and after a while in slow, hot traffic it can bog down a bit once you try to accelerate, then it clears up fine a speed. Folks that live in the South may find an electric more of a necessity than us further North. The difference is that modern fuels are more votatile, so we tend to have this problem more than in the past. Modern cars run with much higher fuel pressure and only very rarely will have this problem. Also, I didn't see the "pancake" fuel filter in the pictures that is usually at the inlet to the carb, so its' possible that it was removed at some point. I too use CARS and ebay quite a bit for parts as its' pretty tough to get stuff for these old Buicks in Canada, even from the local old car parts guys. Keep your spirits up, these are good, solid, reliable cars, and will give lots of happy cruising once you get your issues sorted out. Keith

Fabulous find, Pete. The colour looks very similar to the Royal Maroon on my '41 Roadmaster. About seat covers. My grandfather bought a '56 Roadmaster new and had clear plastic seat covers installed right after he bought it. By the late sixties the front seat cover had broken in the drivers seat position, but the rest was absolutely perfect, especially the back seat. Not the most comfortable covers though, hot in the summer, cold in the winter. So maybe your '48 will be perfect under those covers! Keith

Matt; Nice to see it looking like car again, keep up the good work! Keith

Joe; Thanks for the info. I realize that the 3.9 is not too bad, compared to 4.4 or so, but I do want to make the change. I'd go a bit taller if I could, but as far as I can tell, 3.4 is the tallest that was used in the post war Buicks. Do you remember what year your article was published in the Bugle? I don't remember it, but I have been a BCA member for many years, and have most of my back issues. I know that there are some options out there for overdrives that mount onto the torque tube, but these get too costly for me. Keith

Folks; After driving my '41 Roadmaster (McLaughlin) Buick for a few months, I want to change the rear axle ratio to a higher one. My car has the stock 70 series ratio of 3.9, and I have a complete axle assembly out of a '55 Century with a 3.4 ratio from which I'd like to take the crown and pinion and put it in my '41. Though I have done many extensive repairs on my vintage Buicks, I've never got into an axle, except to change the oil seals on the shafts. So, I've lots of mechanical experience and tools, but not with this type of project. I have heard that the entire "pumpkin" can be swapped from one axle to another. This will effect the speedometer reading as well, and I have been told that on some pickup trucks GM has had a little gadgets that will go onto the speedometer output on the transmission which the cable then fits onto. These change the speed of the speedo cable to match to the axle ratio used, and they will fit on these old trannies too. Though, I'm not so concerned with the speedo error as with getting the gears changed in the rear axle. Who out there has done this? What is the procedure, and the possible pitfalls? Thanks! Keith

I'll second Ficken, as he did mine for my '56 Roadmaster and it looks and works as good as new! Keith

Very neat, too far away, and I have too many cars (who doesn't though!). Would they be seat covers over the original upholstery? Brings back memories of a Dover White with red interior '56 2 dr sedan with the 3 speed that was in my area in '70's. Keith

Folks; Any takers on for $75? Keith

Folks; Here are a few pictures of the rear fender, will fit a Super of Roadmaster. Keith

I had a similar problem with the seat fabric on my '41 Buick. I was torn and completely faded, except where the sewing seams were, and I was able to get small sample of unfaded material there. Anyway, I've been following this thread, and I think that its' so very neat to get you car back after so many years, and bring it back to it's former glory. Keep up the good work! Keith

I second using ether, ie "starting fluid/spray" down the carb (if you have it available), as if has enough of spark to fire the plugs, it'll kick. As a safety measure when doing this with any type of fuel I always put the air cleaner back on, in case of a backfire. It is possible that there is visible spark, but not enough to actually fire the mixture, as the coil could be weak. Also, have you checked for compression? The rings could be stuck after sitting so long. Keith

Folks; I have a left (driver's) rear fender from a 1941 Buick Roadmaster. This fender has had some work done on it, but job was a bit sloppy, as the front part of the curve doesn't fit the body properly now, so some of it will need redoing, though at first glance it actually looks quite nice. Also, the gas door is missing. $100, or offer, plus shipping. Will post pictures when I get a chance. I am located in Toronto, Ontario, Canada, so if you are local, or coming up this way a pick up could be arranged. Paypal is fine. Thanks for looking. Keith

Here's a picture of the lens I have. Keith

Folks, this is a picture of the trim piece that I need, only for the passenger side of the car. It is just about 35 1/8 inches long. Thanks for looking. Keith

Got my'41 Roadmaster out for the first time today. It was almost like summer here in Canada, about 75 F, not a cloud in the sky. We had a nice long drive in the country today. Keith

Jeff; The torque ball makes the final seal to the trans, so if that is bad it will leak. Don't know if it has been mentioned, before, but the rear axle oil can be contaminated with trans fluid from a leaking Dynaflow. The main clue, is when you pull out the fill plug and it runs out, ie. is overfilled, that means that trans fluid has leaked through the torque tube and past the pinion seal and the rear axle oil must be changed. Keith

I am looking for 2 mouldings for my 1941 Buick Roadmaster, 2 door coupe, model 76S. I need the stainless steel piece that goes on the rear passenger (right) quarter panel, kind of underneath the quarter window. A model 56S should be the same. Also, I need the stainless steel rocker panel moulding for the same (passenger) side. Any Roadmaster would be the same length. NOS, or good used, and shipping will be to Canada. Thanks. Keith

Keep up the good work Matt! It's looking good. I went through a bunch of similar stuff with my '41 Roadmaster, and at times it seemed never ending. Which of course is right, as I don't have the interior done yet, hopefully this year! But it was really fun to actually drive it! Keith

Not yet. My '56 Roadmaster is waiting for me to put the tranny back into it, and I just got the master cylinder back from being rebuilt, and it needs to go back in too. My '41 Roadmaster I will likely be getting out of storage next weekend. It is a lovely weekend here in Toronto, and I wish I could drive one of my babies! Keith

In the photo biz, this is what we call "Stop Bath". Keith

Neat, I tried Evaporust, and was less than thrilled with the results, plus it gets quite expensive if you need a lot of it. Here at a big retailer that product is $10. per litre, which is about a US quart, or about $40 a gallon. I've never tried vinegar, but I have a few small rusty parts I'll give a try with it. Keith

Very cool looking car! Keith

Abbie; Just found your thread, and welcome to the forum! Not too scare you, but I just got a '41 Buick (McLaughlin, actually) on the road last year, and I bought it very late in 1991!!!! I can do the math, but I can't believe it! Anyway, keep us posted on your progress. Keith

Robert, I've used a clear coat on steel parts that you want to remain a "natural" looking finish, alternatively, you could use a stainless steel or aluminum paint, if the base metal is too badly corroded to look nice with clear. Keith