Buicknutty

I have run radials on my '56 Roadmaster for over 25 years, I'm on my 3 third set, and I love them. Mind you, my '56 is a driver, and though they don't look quite the same as bias ply, for me the improvement in driving is worth it. Never had any issues with front end. I have just got a set of wide white radials for my '41 Roadmaster, but have not yet driven it with them on. I have some friends that have '37 and 38's and have run radials for a number of years and not have any issues, again these folks drive their cars considerably. Depends on your use of the car, and if appearance is paramount, if so, you've made the right choice. Happy motoring! Keith

I find this interesting, as I have wondered about the production breakdown of McLaughlin's for some years. I wonder if the same could be used to estimate '41 numbers. I have a 1941 McLaughlin Buick Roadmaster Coupe, chassis number is 2112, body number is 8, and according to other info I have read says that there was about 3800 McLaughlin'c made in '41. Don't know if this is correct or not, but this would lead me to believe that there were perhaps 15-20 of my car made??? Of course, by this time, McLaughlin's were virtually the same as US built. Don't mean to hijack this thread folks! Keith

McLaughlin Buicks were built up until 1942, though there are almost no differences between the US Canadian cars. Keith

I have a '56 Roadmaster that I've run radials on for nearly 30 years, as I drive it considerably and it drives so much nicer. For me the difference in appearance outweighs the driving advantages. Keith

Have you checked out the McLaughlin Buick Club of Canada website? No VIN numbers on the site, but some interesting info there, also, if you join up, there is a library. Also, there is a 37/38 Buick club, that has a few McLaughlins in it. Keith

Took my '56 Roadmaster 2 dr. for a spin, then settled down for some work on my '41 Roadmaster coupe. Bled the brakes, and got a few other mechanical bits done. Looking forward to driving it again! Keith

Back to my original question. I've replaced the seal, with one from Bob's Auto and all is well. It was a real bugger to get out, and I was fearful of damaging the shaft, but I took my time and all was well. The shaft was clean, no corrosion or scoring, and so far, no far, no leaks! Keith

I wold think you couldn't go wrong by taking the cover off, and cleaning it and re-filling. Any chance there is contamination coming through the pinion seal, from rear of the trans?

I use a 80W-90 oil, and so far, no problems. In my area it is readily available. Keith

A 1950 Standard Vangard sedan, in 1953, which, now he was a family man, he traded in on a 1953 Pontiac. I remember many trips in the '53, and I cried when he traded it in, in the very early 60's. Keith

Just my few cents worth here. I ran cleaner and flushed the block on my '41 Roadmaster, THEN knocked the frost plugs out, and could not believe the crap that was built up in there! That's after I thought I cleaned it out. It hasn't had any serious tests yet, but runs nice at 165 on the dash guage, with a 160 stat. Keith

My '56 Roadmaster's are a dull look, rather like a galvanized finish, but I believe that its' cad, but this is an original that will have been weathered somewhat. Perhaps there was variation in the manufacturing? Keith

I have a used left rear from a '41 Roadmaster, it was worked on by a previous person, and looks good, but doesn't fit the body right. Will need to be reworked. I can send pics if interested. I'm located in Toronto, Ontario, Canada. Keith

Thanks for the tips everyone! Keith

On my '41, it all adjusts up to near perfect, there doesn't seem to be any excessive clearance. I'm try to just change the seal, as the bushings look really good. According to the book, the original seal is leather. Can an industrial bearing and seal supplier match the size up on the pitman? Keith

I had so much sludge in the pan of my '41 that the oil pick screen was nearly plugged, only about 25% or so was clear. Oil pressure was good, and so were the bearings. This engine had almost 100,000 miles on it, and was in remarkably good shape inside. Keith

Folks; I'm nearly finished restoring my '41 Canadian built Roadmaster coupe, and I'm wondering about replacing the pitman shaft seal. I have the shop manual but it lacks any detail about doing this. Is it usually necessary to replace this seal? If so, what's the best way to do this? Where would I get the part? What lube should I use? The steering box is otherwise in good condition. Keith

Beautiful looking car, Grant! I am in the process of putting my '41 coupe together, and I hope mine looks as nice as yours! Enjoy! Keith

It's been a few years since I did the shocks on my '56, and I was able to get a heavy duty Gabriel, and the ride improved for me also, especially on bad road surfaces. I did not worry about valving specs, I just went with a heavy duty type. Keith

One other point to consider is the thrust pad and mount. If they are originals, they might be pretty bad by now. They could be more or less fine till you take them apart, and have the rubber fall apart on you, then have to wait to get the parts. I went through this the first time I did one. Not tough to change when everything is apart, so then would be the time to do it. Keith

It would be a good idea to check/and or change the rear diff lube. If it is high, then you've definitely got some contamination.

My '41 Roadmaster has been fine, and another couple of friends with '41s are alright too, not very scientific though, I admit, but I'd give the repair route a try, as you know someone with good skills. The biggest problem I had when I rebuilt my engine was separating the intake and exhaust sections. I could not do it without breaking a couple of the bolts. Managed to drill the broken pieces out, and get it all back together, not too many miles it yet, but so far so good. Keith

Thanks for the tip, Earl. I'll give it a try! Keith

I have a selection of speedometers, parts, and faces, and would like to put to best face on the best mechanicals. The outer face comes off very easily, but how does the needle and inner face come off? Keith