Beemon

The part where the Coker exec is talking about how tires have no real expiration date reminds me of the film Thank You For Smoking.

Doug, today is 4/30.

Some of these relays on the market are just straight trash. I've seen armature arms less than 1/16" thick, its laughable. I would say probably best to find a NOS starter relay, but that's probably a pipe dream.

That's the fun of daily driving! You haven't lived until you've hydroplaned on the highway at 65 MPH.

Not sure, all three of them just died when I went to start the car. The first time I ran it with the pertronix coil, no ballast resistor like the instructions advised. The second time I ran my own coil with the ballast resistor and the third time I gave them the benefit of the doubt. It just worked and then didn't, like an internal short or something. When returned, they concluded the module just died so don't know what to tell you in that regard.

General consensus on the internet is that Pertronix was good until the last couple years. It left me stranded in December of 2016 three times, where I spent my time white knuckled setting points with a matchbook in the parking lot of my community college and a Chuck E. Cheese's sandwiched between a liquor store and lingerie store.

I am interested for one as well!

You can't run restored plates in NY? In Washington, the plates have to be restored by a professional before they are considered. No front plates here, which has allowed me to run vanity plates and drive through toll lanes without being charged.

Most young folks are in the hobby due to their parents/grandparents/whatever being in the hobby. As an active young person, I can say without a doubt that this hobby is dying because young people of my generation, and more to come, cannot even get into this hobby, especially when rust bucket project cars go for $3000 versus a 1990's hatchback starting at $500. I don't like posting in these threads because I am mostly naive and very inexperienced when it comes to a national car club and its politics, but something about "young people not getting involved" bothers me like it's some giant mystery. We simply cannot get into any form of hobby without outside help, which is rare at best. I mean, I would have never even tried if it wasn't for my grandfather retaining his Buick and giving it to me to start. We all know the price of junkyards, rebuild shops, restoration shops, etc. This hobby simply isn't feasible for the current generation anymore, and most likely won't ever be. Now judging might be a separate animal, but the involvement of young people across the board will yield diminishing returns going forward simply because there is no desire for older automobiles if it's not affordable or attainable for the majority of the population. Sorry, I don't mean to be the target of accusations, but from going to all the car meets I've been to, the demographic isn't young and the classic car meets are much different from car meets put on by my age group. If you want to be apart of a club that has young people interested, then you should be looking at the Nissan/Datsun, Honda, Toyota and Subaru groups.

In most cases they don't care, at least around here. I've never been pulled over and drove to school almost every day, driving passed the PD on the way. I've seen more people pulled over for having vintage plates than collector plates because the vintage plates don't register in the computer.

I would definitely be interested. Taking mountain roads sideways is not very fun.

I found your posts on TeamBuick from 2006. Is he still in business? That information is 12 years old now.

I would put one or two more in line just as a back up. There's a lot of force in the cable when you ratchet it down with the parking brake peddle.

Not really much to do with the Buick, although I am still maintaining good solid vacuum at 15" Hg! Satin black on raw aluminum is the look the car is going for this year. We finally got the intake manifold sealed up and capable of holding vacuum! For those that do not know, 3D printing is extremely porous and difficult to work with, especially if you use a 20% in-fill between surface layers. We had to use a lot of 3-1 epoxy resin and hardener to get the whole thing air tight. Data colllection should start as early as this weekend, if the suspension guys get their head out of their behind and actually finish the uprights. Next week is Finals, then off to Michigan on the 6th. If all goes well and the car performs phenomenally (and confirms my assumptions and verifies design), I thinking about going big and doing an intake for the Buick.

I meant in the article, where they cover the section on how the sway bar ripped itself from the frame.

Pilgrim, you could always take a boat to the mainland and drive the desert roads! I know your neighbors are a little unstable at the moment, but shouldn't be too bad..

She looks like the type of girl that won't let you Finish

How the sway bar tore itself from the frame is interesting. They must have assumed that the torque being transmitted to the bar before and after the turn would be negligible enough to not have to worry about it twisting from the frame rail.

Are the hose clamps staying? Have you considered making or adapting a thicker bar? Or adding one to the rear axle?

Looks like you found your power brake door car! It's always nice to have a spare carburetor and generator, too!

I'm jealous! I have a soft spot for severe nature events, most likely because the last earthquake we had here in Washington, I was still in elementary school. It also doesn't help there were a ton of hollywood films about the end of the world produced when I was in high school. Seriously, I hope everything is okay up there! Earthquakes are old town's worst nightmares, it doesn't matter how big they are. Crack propagation and fatigue in old concrete, especially not reinforced with rebar or other strengthening components, don't do very well with vibration.

I agree with you in the fact that if the unit is and remains sealed, the fluid inside the shock absorber should be okay to use. I have looked at several oil studies since my post above from December of last year when comparing lubrication characteristics for the FSAE club and have partially concluded that oils do not generally break down but rather become contaminated. While I have not done any oil tests myself, from what I've observed of other test results, the oils do fatigue from heat, but the fatigue happens very slowly and in a part that is not subjected to extreme temperatures such as a shock absorber, the heat issue is non-existent. What we do have to consider as that at this time, some oils were synthesized from sperm whale oil and motor oils and other lubricating oils of the 1950s are no where compared to that of modern day oils. Nevertheless, I am interested in swapping my cheap $40 gas charged shocks back over to my leak free original oil charged shocks. In a market where your only choice is $90 set of four shocks or the originals, there really isn't much to choose from.

Who are you going through? I have zero restrictions on my full coverage, as it is registered as a classic vehicle.

The topic of turbochargers came up. The McCulloch is pretty close to a modern turbo, it just doesn't harness waste energy like a turbo. It would probably be the most affordable approach since blowers are still crazy expensive and centrifugal superchargers are even more.