Beemon

Remove road draft tube, use a grommet to install a PCV into the road draft tube hole in the valley cover, T off before brake booster check valve. That's the simplest way to go about it. If done properly, it can look as if it was intended to be there. However, you'd need to use some type of brass T fitting at the brake booster check valve if still using stock steel hard line. If you put it after the check valve, it will never open unless you pump your brakes a lot. Going to the air cleaner to complete the loop is another story, and probably best to tap into the air filter base at the back of the housing so you can see it... You would also have to tap and route a line from the valve cover to the air cleaner to complete the closed loop, with an appropriate baffle. There's really no way to go about doing this without using a modified valve cover breather cap or air filter housing. At best you can run the PCV at the road draft as an open system... I'm sure you understand why a PCV system must be closed loop instead of open loop to actually benefit from a PCV system.

I mean I get it and it looks better without one, but I daily my car as a main source of transportation, so I have a much higher chance of getting into an accident than say your 56 does. Especially into Fall/Winter, where the days are shorter and the roads are wetter. Willis, thanks for the heads up. I'll see what I can source for less than $50.

John, as cool as that sounds, the purpose of the third brake light is to have something at or above eye level that's directly in front of the driver behind you. Usually not an issue on SUVs where their lights are high enough to be seen easily. I'd like to say with new lenses and 1157 bulbs that my brake lights are pretty good, even during daylight. However, I feel they could be even better. http://www.apa.org/action/resources/research-in-action/brake.aspx I know I give psychology majors a hard time, but there are real life test results that prove having one is better than not having one.

I did a quick search and nothing concrete popped up for what people were using for a third brake light IF they were using a third brake light. I recently just saw a post on Facebook about someone getting rear ended during the weekend and it brought up a good point. Most modern drivers look out for that third brake light. I can tell you right now I've had many close encounters at the university already and young people aren't really the brightest when it comes to driving, what with smart phones and all (which is funny because both my parents have been driving forever, constantly comment on modern driver's poor quality while simultaneously using their cell phones). Regardless, not having the third brake light is like being stuck between a rock and a hard place. It seems the only quality light out there is the Billet Specialties model Summit Racing sells, but that's about it. There's no documentation online or anything. I also wasn't sure if I should post this into modified or not. It's not really a modified type subject, more of a general how do we make our cars safer subject. Anyways, feel free to add suggestions, discuss, etc. Tell me how its a good idea or in your opinion a waste of time, assuming that modern drivers are smart enough to look three cars ahead instead of the one in front of them.

On my 56, I have two normal hose clamps that are engraved withthe 50s Buick script. I've found no documentation on these. The only tower clamps I have onmy car were for the transmission dipstick. Is it considered original if they came with the car when I got it? Loll I remember seeing a thread on here about adapting a modern heater core. It was smaller but got the job done. Might be cheaper?

Always sad to see her go. One last photo before she left. What, I'm talking about the Pontiac of course!

I believe it is press fit. I do not believe anything is retaining it otherwise. Be careful, its copper.

Affordability is going to be what sells for the next generation. If not for the fact that I got my 56 for free, i would be looking at at least $2000 for a non- running car in my local area. In that price range, someone in their early 20s can easily buy a used 10-20 year old Japanese car and be on their way. Imagine what prices will be like in another 20 years. Not to mention how everyone tends to scare people away from buying projects and gravitate more towards finished restorations or driver vehicles with paint. It can become extremely overwhelming. All the people that grew up working on these cars, sad to say, aren't getting any younger either. Just things to consider for the future of the "classic car" hobby. It's a rich man's game for sure.

Any news?

All that money spent and you couldn't spend $200 to fix the radio?

Doug, I bought all my clips from NAPA for relatively decent price. I'm sure the body shop has them, but it's a potential alley to explore. Congrats on the tank install!

My girl paid me a surprise visit this weekend. We went up to Steptoe Butte to watch the sunset last night since she's never been. The smoke isn't too bad right now, but it was thick enough on the horizon to make the sun watchable. Right before it hit the horizon, it went from orange to an almost blood red and there was a visible corona around the sun.

I just did mine without removing the dash. You can see and reach the transmission on the driver side but the passenger side can be a pain. Well are they squirting now? The T you can probably get from a generic vacuum fitting kit.

If not this year Doug, at least your gas tank will be bulletproof for next year! Should be no excuses then!

So that's how you're supposed to do it...

The wiring under the dash is superb

On the back of the alternator, from the pig tail I ran the white wire to the ignition switch ballast resistor. If I were to do it again, I would have rather ran it to the starter relay as it is also switched 12V. The red wire I jumped to the battery lead on the alternator. From there, I used the stock yellow wire to ground to the alternator case and the stock white wire to the alternator battery terminal. Tape off the pink wire, its useless now. On the voltage regulator, you need to move the white wire from armature to battery, where the red wire is. This is important, you will have to cut the green wire off the white wire's spade connector. Disconnect the green wire from the starter relay. The terminal that connected to the green wire is the relay's ground, so just run a ground wire to any bolt on the fender well. I personally used the screw that holds the starter and battery junction block.I hope this helps! I don't remember how the images went in the original post, it seems that the URL address must have changed. In any case, here you go: I will say that this setup is extremely janky. I went back to the generator shortly after doing this mod. Now its just a backup that sits in the trunk that can be swapped in in a matter of 30 minutes. It would be a lot cleaner if you can score a 53 322 passenger side motor mount (they did not come with the generator mount) and go with a custom bracket or maybe a 401 bracket.

You put the lube in through the fill hole on the back of the differential. Group AD

Good to see the Riv gets priority.

I just pulled out and up. Check Kosage Chavis' 55 buick thread in Me and My Buick.

If you look at some of the cheap glass fuses they sell at AutoZone, they're awful in construction and very cheap feeling. I was blowing glass fuses left and right until I found a NOS pack of Atlas fuses my grandfather had in the basement. The ones I couldn't find I bought from NAPA and they were considerably better condition than the ones from AutoZone. The fuses from the local department store also seemed to be of a heavy duty. If I recal, it had more to do with the cement to hold the fuse together failing and burning the fuse out than the actual line, like they're not made for sudden increase in voltage or huge voltage spikes associated with a points based electrical system (ignition points, voltage regulator points, clock points... all going to have a huge voltage fall off when the current tries to arc as the points separate).

The temp sender is in the passenger side head, so its at the front reading 160. I agree its too cold and want to have it swapped back to a 180 stat, especially with the onset of winter weather here in the next month or two. Now that the cooling system is running right, there's no reason to fear another overheat.. I hope. I still think I would benefit from a 6 blade fan, clutch or not. Now that I know the real reason was the radiator and not the fan, it all kind of makes sense why the fan didn't kick on. However, when checking the head unit it didn't seem to engage the clutch with the hair dryer. Who knows.

There's no noticeable difference between new and original rockers other than the placebo piece of mind. I have noticed that they are quieter, however, but that's probably due to bushed shafts versus a good worn shaft. No more hot issues. Only really gets hot at the drive thru and the gauge reads 190-200. Otherwise, a solid 160 around town.

Bilstein shocks from Race Car Dynamics.