Beemon

Without knowing the actual spec, I would say 10in Hg is where it should be.

Same switch on 56, too.

I don't think it would be any more complicated than using an LS engine that also requires a PCM to run the engine and transmission. $2k is also seat cushion change when you calculate rebuilding a 455 engine and matched transmission, boxing the rear axle and fabbing mounts.

How much vacuum are you currently getting from the pump?

You can get water pumps new from NAPA. Its probably just as difficult to scarce up a 455 water pump as it would be a Nailhead water pump. The only issue is that you need to do a timing cover swap to a later 401/425 Nailhead, new from TA performance. They bolt onto the 322 block, and you will also be able to mount the fuel pump sold over the counter. I daily my 56, too, without much issue. If you're worried about adjusting brakes, find some adjusters out of a later 60s Buick - they go right on and all the springs can also be bought new from NAPA. If I were to modernize my Buick, I would look at using a modern engine and transmission, not 50 year old ones. The 3.6L V6 engine would be a good fit, comparable in power to your 322 and parts are all over the place for them. All it needs is the Buick plastic cover and you're good to go. Hide the ECU somewhere, and you'd probably be getting 30MPG on the highway. With the new GS model, or even the Cadillac CTS, you have the option of single or twin turbo manifolding, too. Whichever way you decide to go, good luck! I'd be interested in following your thread, too. Just make sure you reinforce your X-frame, it was engineered for 250 HP and 341 ft/lbs of torque.

Hey if it works, it works. Mine are still broken.

Funny, I stopped at that exact gas station two years ago when I went camping at Potlatch.

It's not the heim joint that is questionable, its the frame mounts that are the concern. Having them horizontal puts the shear plane parallel on the vertical bolt versus making an uneven moment arm during twisting if the bolt was horizontal. Of course in this scenario you don't have a choice which way its oriented unless you add a cross member. Should be fine, was just commenting because I thought it was weird when I saw it in Formula SAE. Keep up the good work!

Who rebuild the steering box?

Nice Buick, was hoping to see "One Bid 2".

The gurus also say not to use Fel-Pro head gaskets. I use both Fel-Pro gaskets and manifold gaskets and have yet to see failure. In before scolding.

Those trailing arms are done the same way we do A arms in Formula SAE. I'm no suspension guy but I was told having them horizontal versus vertical helps with minimizing the shear plane during vertical movement.

You're best checking out the HAMB for that one. Check modified for a 57 restomod. They used a 700R4 but it's the same concept.

Don't know about using a 3.8L V6, but the new Cadillac 3.6 is twin turbo and the Buick GS 3.6 is single turbo, both phenomenal engines. I wouldn't mind playing with them under the hood tbh. They say the modern V6 is the new V8 and GM's DOHC V6 is the hot ticket.

What's he supposed to put in it, a 3.6L V6? At the very least, I see your thread has been moved to the Buick Modified section. Got any close ups of your trailing arm rear end? Where did you mount it to the x-frame? etc. Any reason you picked the 700R4 over the 200R4 or a 4L60E? I see you're also running carbureted, was FI too spendy or complicated? Nice fab and body work! Will be following.

When I had the plugs removed on my cylinder heads, they looked brand new from the outside. However, once removed, they were nearly all paper thin. Better to be safe than sorry.

Can't wait!

You got it

Odd that you do not have a fill plug, must be some type of odd job? All covers are welded on. If you already drained it out, you're going to have to thread the bolt again, then pull an axle and pour the lube in through one side. Be sure to jack up the side that you pull the axle on.

That's rough. If my splines ever fail, I will just go to something modern.

Wow, with my luck that's sure to happen to me next month!

What's so bad about them? I have yet to break them.

No nasty, toxic vapors at idle coming from the road draft tube for one... or oily valve covers and seeping cork gaskets.

The license plate idea I don't think will work well considering that majority of people's eye sight are going to be above the trunk. Have you ever ridden behind your own car? And I know it goes without saying that most people have a really small attention span when driving, I doubt someone is going to pay attention to a license plate that's recessed underneath the bumper. There's a reason why the third brake light was mandated after 1994 on all vehicles, and that its higher than the other two. Psychologically, it creates a triangle of attention right at eyesight of most if not all drivers whether it be trucks or cars. Inverting the triangle draws attention to the ground.. I mean, how often do you all actively look at the bottom of someone's rear bumper versus looking through the window of the car in front of you? Driving slower in traffic is not an option. One, I always drive 5 over the speed limit... Two, driving 5 under the speed limit is against the law (in Washington State) and a nuisance to everyone. I found an interesting solution on the Tri-5 forums. A gentleman over there used a 92-99 Suburban third brake light in the rear window. On the Escalades with barn doors, they were chrome. My package tray is pretty toast, but I feel I can make a box that can be fashioned underneath the rear speaker screen. It just needs to be elevated above the rear window trim. Joseph, I will look into your solution as well. Having something that's not permanent sounds good as long as it can be done cleanly.

$500? I don't know where I'd put it but I'd find room if it were closer.