Beemon

I'm revisiting my gas pedal starter idea. The switch body on the carb is just ugly and in the way. It does work, by the way. My new idea is stemmed from a discussion about a year or two ago now that resurfaced, where Willis (NTX5467) suggested using a transmission kick down switch as the gas pedal starter switch. B&M makes a pretty crude kit that can be made to work, but it doesn't factor in the vacuum cutout for the original setup. So, I started looking into Harley VOES. I thought my problems had been answered, until I did some research and found out these switches are normally open until vacuum is applied and the switch closes the circuit. This is the opposite of what I'm looking for, but it was a step in the right direction. So, I went to the hardware store looking for various odds and ends: A copper rivet and two brass screws. I figure this will work since the original switch is two brass terminals with a piece of copper that closes the circuit on the end of a plastic bakelite plunger. Just like the ball bearing, the copper rivet, or "plunger", will be gravity held in the closed position, with vacuum pulling it up to open the circuit. The brass nipple fitting and the copper plunger would be hammered together to create a hard seal that will hopefully minimize vacuum leak. Either that, or a neoprene or rubber gasket can be glued to the bottom of the brass fitting. I had originally incorporated a spring in the design, but all the springs at the hardware store, by testing with a hand held vacuum pump, are too stiff to use. I don't think it will be much of an issue as long as the switch body is oriented vertically. The button heads for the brass screws would obviously be shaved down on the adjacent sides so they aren't so close to each other. As for the kick down switch, I really don't want it anywhere visible. So, I'm looking at maybe putting it here: Since its cable operated, I would just need to find a way to attach it to the equalizer shaft between the throttle pedal and the throttle linkage. This will make for a concealed, clean install and keep the carburetor clean. The shop mill finally became free but I don't have my air cleaner assembly with me, so after break I'll be looking into opening up the air cleaner bottom to go over the top of the carburetor. The air valve secondary really makes this conversion a pain, but if done right, everything should look pretty stock.

I have a 56 Dynaflow lying around from a running car. It unfortunately came with my replacement engine. If you were in the Pacific NW I would give it to you.

Where are you located?

I can't remember, is 58 the year of the long gasket water pump? I believe 56 and 57 was the same pump base but they changed it later? If its 58 and up, you can still get a new pump from NAPA and it has the AC vanes. Likewise, there's a company called Flowkooler that has made a custom impeller from CNC machining using complex fluid analysis that increases pump flow and decreases pump cavitation, making it one knock out pump. The faster you get that coolant moving, the more turbulent the flow and the better your heat transfer will be. Of course the original pump worked just fine, but with the modern advancements you'll probably gain 1 HP lol. When I get to working on my second 322's bottom end, I was expecting to go this route with a TA performance timing cover and 401/425 fuel pump. I am in Willie's camp in that I have had two water pumps rebuilt now. Luckily my castings have been pretty good and I haven't had any leaks. In fact I have had a lot of things rebuilt, but that's irrelevant.

Yeah the 90 degree sweeps are pretty cool, especially if they have the black ears to hide the rest of the gauge face. I still like my dash of course, but I think the small body 54/55 dash is the hot ticket for the tri-5 Buicks.

I don't care much for the 56 dash, it always felt like an afterthought to me. "Oops we forgot about the heater controls!"

2x2 = 2x 2 barrel carbs

Is this an original transmission or a rebuilt transmission? It matters if you're going to use stop leak. The accumulator seals are not sold with the rebuild kits so they are most likely original, but if your other seals are original too, the stop leak may ruin them.

The top of the washer bottle, gas door trim and tissue box can be bought from vendors like Fusick or CARS.

Not much happening these days. I've been violently sick so I did not get to speak at the funeral, but the Buick was there. No pictures... I haven't found the time or energy to swap intake manifolds. The shop lathe at the club house has been used to cope tubes for this season's Formula car so I haven't had time to modify my spare junkyard air cleaner bottom. The ID for the carb air horn needs to be enlarged to 5" or the modern equivalent. The Buick itself is at home. Its been snowing a bit up here, which isn't a scare for me at all around this time. The real issue is getting across Snoqualmie Pass next Friday and it can go one of two ways. I figured its best not to gamble so she's safely tucked away while I've been driving my Jeep around. Today as my last project for the manufacturing class, we did laser engraving. I think it turned out fine, but I didn't account for the gradual taper and it looks a little goofy. Check it out:

That service is also quite expensive and only worth it to someone who has money to throw away or is looking to do a full point restoration.

Do not buy into the aluminum drum idea whatever you do. I've been down that road, it's extremely rare to find a good set out of a junkyard. You cannot use them on your current backing plates and if you upgrade to the Roadmaster 12x2.5" drums on the front, you'll be searching for the more elusive 1957-1960 12x2.5 aluminium drums. You can make the 12x2.25 aluminum drums fit if you have access to a mill and don't feel bad about removing meat from your current backing plates. Otherwise it's a pipe dream. I don't have much else experience with your setup but if you find a modern system that fits under the floor, your pedal ratio should be ok. Otherwise the stock power brake system is cheap and easy to rebuild and is actually pretty nice.

Home Depot

John, your book probably says 55 because done 55s were fitted with "56" engines. If it came with valve cover breathers and the heated carb base manifold, it was a 56 engine. I bet the low compression pistons in the special were 55 pistons.

If you think it's the carb still, you can attempt to purge the idle circuit before tear down. I have used compressed air in the idle adjustment screw hole. Bear in mind this is not the correct way to do things and the dirt or whatever will still be in the carb, but it could work.

What did the other side look like? Drive it how it is and enjoy it. Make sure you start saving now so when it's on its last leg, you can afford the engine rebuild. It could be the carburetor acting up, it could not be, too. But the carburetor wouldn't cause low compression. I have been battling with engine problems since the rubber on my car first started rolling. Seriously, make a tip jar and fill it regularly.

Stumbled upon this thread again because I'm doing research for a replacement steering box. There should be a footnote on the website: seals only.

I would advise buying a Tanks Inc tank unless it's absolutely necessary. The difference between new and old is 2 gallons, and that might mean something to some people.

You are correct. And you need a really good manifold design to make sure the turbo has a steady stream of exhaust feeding it.

The shop manual says the low compression Special uses different pistons in section 2-4. All the gaskets are .015" thick.

1956 322's really get screwed in terms of pistons. The suppliers are more likely to sell you 55 pistons and low compression head gaskets. As far as I know, Egge is the only place that currently makes pistons for the 322. All other places get their stuff from Egge, unless its custom order.

Giant rounds cut with 6 inch tall shims on top.. we had to get the transmission jack under the car somehow.

This is what I run also, they're a pretty good plug and I've had zero issues with them. NGK 5858

I'm still waiting for the day he decides to part with the McCulloch. Beautiful car Matt. I'm glad you didn't give up like you said you were. Owning these cars is tough and scary at times, I can't even count on both hands how many times I wished my 56 would rot in hell.

So I did some looking again, I don't think it's the head gasket because the pools are no where near the oil galleys and I feel it would just be gushing out the sides of the block and not the top. I think it's the valley pan, but I'm a bit confused. Is there a lot of oil that concentrates around the valley pan gasket? Like high concentrations of oil? Bear in mind I have a very manageable rear main leak, too. I thought gluing the gasket to the valley cover and then torquing to spec was enough, but I guess not.