ipeeforward

Hi, I have an old British van that sits unused for long periods. It occasionally suffers from a stuck valve which makes the engine miss. The misfire is very regular and most importantly you can here the tapping from the extra gap that is in the valve train. It quiet often will stick at higher revs. and then free itself while idling. Some upper cylinder lubricant added to the petrol has improved matters. If your miss is only noticeable at idle and doesn’t have a constant beat I would be looking for the cause of a weak mixture. Carb. adjustment or manifold air leak. Hope you find it. John

Sorry just re read your post guess you know what they look like but can’t find repros to buy.

Hi, 1929 Chrysler 75 starter and generator tags Hope that helps.

Hi, Did my worst wheel by hand it was very tedious. The caps around the the rim which hide the balance weights are steel. On mine there we no weights present although the wheels were out of balance. (Only the fronts have them) I added lead washers over threads secured with another nut then put the caps back on. Was a bit trial and error but managed to get the wheel to come to rest at random points in the end.

Hi, Similar setup to Gunsmoke on my 1929 Chrysler 75. Front seat back split with adjustment for the driver only with the t handle on the top. Seat base is one piece and sits in a tray on the floor pan. Seat backs are equal width. Rumble seat back is fixed directly to the lid, seat base one piece sitting directly on the floor pan. I removed the bases to photograph but forgot the upholsterer had closed the bases with material. Both seats have a wooden base. Hope that helps, let me know if I can photo anymore. John

Hi, This article may help. https://mgaguru.com/mgtech/ignition/ig104.htm

Hi, I would think that the gauge would be damaged by 12V as it it. You may be able to limit the current flowing through the gauge to the same values required at 6V by adding a resistor of a suitable value in the circuit. You can buy 12V DC to 6V DC (dc to dc converters) but you would need to check out how much current you intend to draw through it as they can only deliver to their rated output. Ta John

Hi John, I checked my gauge by removing the wire from the sender and replacing it with a decade box (selectable resistor) to the chassis and recorded the following. Short to frame - Full (needle on stop) 10ohms - 1 division over 3/4 20ohms - 2.5 divisions over 1/2 30ohms - 1 division over 1/2 40ohms - 3 divisions over 1/4 50ohms - 1.5 divisions over 1/4 60ohms - 1/4 70ohms - 3 divisions over E 80ohms - 2.5 divisions over E 90ohms - 2 divisions over E 100ohms - 1.5 divisions over E 110ohms - 1 division over E 120ohms - Empty (needle on stop) Hope that helps Yours John

Hi John, If you give me a day or so I can test mine and let you know. ta John

I have been asked to do 2 weddings using my 1929 Chrysler 75, the bride and father and then bride and groom rode in the rumble (dicky in G.B.) seat. It's always the most popular seat to have a go in at the car shows. 2 adult passengers means less room for picnic items though. 🙁

Hi, 1929 75 Locke body dickie seat catch. let me know if you need anymore.

Hi Pete, I had the same problem on a Lockheed master cylinder I overhauled. I switched to silicone brake fluid as it seemed a good idea however the new old stock seals I used swelled up in service and as has already been pointed out blocked the tiny compensation hole when the master cylinder was at rest causing the brakes to drag after a few applications. As I couldn't get any brand new seals I went back to dot4 fluid with some more old stock seals and haven't had any problems since. I also have a 1929 Chrysler 75 happy to chat if needed. John F

Hi not sure if this helps or if my understanding of the position of the felts makes this info relevant.

The coil will work either way round but as the link below explains will work better if correctly wired. My 1929 75 was round the wrong way, starting was much better when corrected. http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/ignition/ig104.htm

Hi All, You need to find a willing volunteer for a start and it always causes a laugh. I drove for a wedding last autumn where the Bride and Groom were happy to hitch up and climb in. And yes we call it a Dickey seat this side of the pond. Yours John F

Hi bevans077, i have used Australian made water jacket covers they fitted fine. Used stainless bolts to fix them. I believe jay astheimer has the steering wheel control levers for sale. My 1929 75 has three levers as per sasha39's earlier posts. Happy to get photos if needed. John F

Looks the same as my 1929 model 75. Wooden wheels as suggested. You are a clever chap keiser. John f

Hi Brian, Photos hope they help. Shock snubber strip supplier as well. John

Hi , it's a 2 door convertible with rumble seat, guess most of the mechanicals will be similar ? Happy to help if I can. John

Hi, if you need anymore photos to go with keiser's let me know and I can take some of my 1929 75 conv. Yours John f

Hi, my 75 has done this to me twice. I know my radiator has a few blocked tubes if it boils up the crud that is pushed round the system blocks more, even a short run will have it overheating. Last time it happened I filled the rad with vinegar for a few days. It was slightly better after. Decided to go for broke and filled it with toilet descale that seems to have fixed it for now. It did reveal a few leaks though. Time to start saving for a new core. Yours John f

Hi all, I am looking for a choke cable & knob for my 1929 75. The one currently fitted doesn't look right for the style of the dash (and is broken). Also the replacement carb. fitted has a spring loaded mechanism to hold the choke off, did the original have a locking or stiff operation ? Any suggestions on a supplier great fully received. Many thanks John F

Hi Fernando, Finally found the time to take the photos. Serial No. reads 822491 Hope they help. I will measure the length of the link and let you know. Photo of car taken in Aug 2010. I can email you the original files if needed. Yours John

Hi fernando, More than happy to have look for the serial numbers will post photos in a few days. yours john

Hi JGG, I would clamp off the front & rear brake hoses and see if you get a pedal. If you do this would show that there is air in the wheel cylinders or lines after the hoses or the brake shoes are not adjusted enough. The pedal movement is all lost pushing the shoes against the drums. You could try and seal off the master cylinder at the output pipe (may not be that easy to do ?) in which case you should get very little movement on the pedal. If the pedal goes to the floor then your master cylinder is the issue. I would check that the main seal uncovers the tiny compensating port when the brakes are off. Check the cylinder is returning to the fully off position and not being slightly depressed by the pedal adjustment being wrong. Hope that gives you somewhere to start. Yours John F U.K.