ipeeforward

My 1929 75 had them on the front wings. Looks factory as the wiring is same as the rest of car.

Hi John, I found a photo in my late fathers album of a 1930 Chrysler 77 that came into the garage he was working at in the U.K in 1958. Although the rear of the car is different from yours the windscreen and doors including the 3 hinges look very similar. Unfortunately I have no further information on the car other than it was the catalyst for him buying the 75 I still have.

Sorry duplicate sent

John, Photos of the most relevant pages for 72 series from 1928 (70 Years Of Chrysler George H.Dammann )as promised.

Joe, How big was the socket wrench you used ? I would be using a 1/2” breaker bar if not 3/4” or do you think your spanner pins would shear off ? Dare you try a gentle bit of heat on the torque tube ?

My RHD 75 has a golf door on the right same as 31 LaSalle’s but rumble steps on the left. Original Locke body.

Have used a U.K. version with success on modern cars that were not worth repairing. Depending on how bad the leak is some have lasted a year before failing again. I haven’t seen any issues with plugged radiators.

Looks like the retaining nut needs to be undone and a screw driver used to open up the gap in the terminal, it should slide further down the battery post then. Don’t over tighten it after as the terminal is easily distorted.

Fantastic pictures of the RHD setup. I haven’t seen the factory ? air filter on a RHD before. No heat control on my 75 either. I have a silver dome head which as far a I know is original. (Shame that there are many usable parts on that chassis now cut in half 😁).

Hi John, I don’t use my advance and regard adjustment (although it does work) it stays fully advanced all the time. I am assuming your distributor has centrifugal advance/retard weights in the bottom ? I think the ignition would only be manually retarded to enable hand crank starting. ta John

Mine has a Fram PB1/2 filter on the firewall, you see new old stock come up for sale on eBay or find a remote filter housing that takes a disposable filter inside. I was looking at a ww2 jeep one https://www.ebay.com/itm/114400376383 that looks about the right size but others may know a better option. re Oil, Comma (in the UK) do a straight mineral 30 oil with no detergent. I would probably only use this if the engine is an unknown condition and may be full of sludge. If it’s been reconditioned I would use the shelsey light.

Today was Drive it day in the UK (https://www.fbhvc.co.uk/drive-it-day) The first time my 1929 Chrysler 75 has been out this year, joined forces with a friend and her Morris Minor 1000 to drive a 20mile round trip for a picnic at Aldenham Country Park.

Hi John, Dimensions on the landau iron fixings as promised.

I run super unleaded (only 5% ethanol in the UK) with some fuel stabiliser (STA-BIL) if I am not going to be using the car for a while. I have tried adding up to 10% kerosene which does seem to improve the way it runs (slightly cooler). I would advance the ignition a little from spec. and run it slightly richer if your carb. has an adjustable main jet, to allow for the enleanment the ethanol causes. I am running Champion 1 COM plugs with no problems. They were in it already not sure if you can still get them ?

You only need to look in the parts book to see how many different types of linkage their were. Likewise I am not running the correct carb. at the moment but the throttle lever is in the same place as the original (which I have awaiting rebuild). The 72 linkage must have taken a sharp turn to the drivers side to get it to come up in the right place ? It’s a bit crowded in that space with the steering box and exhaust.

Hi John, Good to talk last night on the phone. Pictures of carb. linkage attached plus some pics of my brake master cylinder I know it’s different from yours but may help with the general setup. Let me know if the landau iron looks about right, what measurements do you need ? Will email you the photos of parts book and Zenith carb. info. Thanks John F

From what I understand the added ethanol reduces the need for other additives that were boosting the octane. Usually , methyl tertiary-butyl ether and ferrocene. John

Re. The timing light not working, sometimes there is not a strong enough spark to trigger the pickup. Try pulling the ignition lead from the plug by 1/8in (so you can hear it jumping the gap).

Hi, My 1929 75’s carb. is crammed in backwards in that tight space too. It’s not the right carb. but I have a 90degree rubber elbow onto some flexible exhaust pipe and a filter mounted on top of the cylinder head. I wonder if the carb. the other way round would be susceptible to Icing up before any hot air came thought the radiator if the conditions were just right. John

In 2001 I overhauled the whole brake systems on a Bedford CA (van) that uses a Lockheed system. Everything was removed and cleaned with denatured alcohol (methylated spirits this side of the pond) including the brake pipes on the vehicle. All the rubber components were replaced with new old stock items as that was all I could get at the time. I decided to switch to silicone brake fluid at this point. Within a few days of completing the work I had problems with the brakes sticking on and excessive pedal travel (shoes were adjusted correctly and there was clearance on the brake pedal). On disassembly I found the master cylinder seals had swelled a considerable amount blocking the compensating port and the wheel cylinder seals likewise had also increased in size. I could only assume that the rubber they were made of way back when wasn’t compatible with the silicone fluid? I gave up on the silicone fluid and returned to dot4 with another set of seals. Other than changing the fluid regularly I have had no problems since. I have used rubber grease in the wheel cylinders around the aluminium pistons to try and stop the corrosion that seems to occur. I may switch to the silicon grease next time any work is required. In my normal day job as a mechanic I often will pull apart a new wheel cylinder and add silicon grease to the bore as they sometime very dry where they have sat around after manufacture. I have a number of customers with classics running silicon fluid with no problems. Like other posts you have to be careful when filling up to avoid bubbles. The fluid also seems very expensive in the UK.

Flivverking that looks like it just got a bit more involved 😕. For Tom, photos of the tool;

Hi, If it’s the same layout as my 75. I made a tool to lock the drive gear in place so the generator could be removed. It was just 2 bent pieces of 1/4 rod welded to a flat plate. Remove the access plate on the front of the timing chain cover, loosen the nut on the drive gear, insert the tool though suitable holes in the gear and secure through the flat plate using one of the bolt holes for the cover. You can then remove the generator shaft without the gear falling off the chain. I will find it tomorrow and take a photo for you. It worked well and didn’t take too long. Yours John