MikeC5

Looks fabulous! I really like that red..

Good question Ray. I've never heard that term before either.

Good to hear Pete!

I used the procedure here to set it up. Stewart Carburetors reference book from 1927 especially for Dodge restorers.

I agree with Jay that the problem is probably due to something in the choke (mixture control) set up. This can happen if the mixture pinion gear is meshed at a different location on the needle gear rack (than it originally was) or, if you removed the pinion shaft lever, it may be in a different position now. I would also check to make absolutely sure that the air valve floats without restriction. I did have to fiddle with the pivot arm position as I recall. I can take some closeup pictures of how I have mine set if you like Pete.

I must confess for being too lazy to go in and get the camera whilst I was doing these. I promise I will when I do the OD brake linings. I didn't have a stretcher tool but used plenty of soft jaw clamps to hold them in place. I bout a rivet tool from Meyers that you mount in the workbench vise (vice ?).

Re-doing the Axle oil seals and brakes. On one side the e-brakes were soaked with oil. After getting the correct spot facing tool it was pretty easy to rivet on the new linings. I 'm trying the McMaster Carr high strength, 0.5 coefficient of friction linings. These do have the brass wires woven in and were reasonably priced.

I'm glad you had the presence of mind to quickly shut r' down Pete! I will take a look at that tomorrow. So you got it running then... Did you drive it yet?

That is such a cool font...

I was just curious. I'm glad to hear you got the car running properly on the original system too.

Are you sure it wasn't a vacuum leak? I don't think a properly bent line would present significant flow losses. I bent mine as close as possible to the original (assuming it was original) and didn't have any issues. The old line might have worked but I had the body off so it was easy to replace. How tight were the radii on the original?

My one and only wiring loom purchase for my 1925 was a good experience with RI. It was well made and matched the original.

Did you mean the oil pump or check valve spring Jay? I did also need a replacement for the conical check valve spring (which is a more specialized little beastie) and I was able to get a good used one from Meyers. The check valve spring can't be too strong or oil will not reach the pressure gauge iirc.

I believe I did what Pete describes; took the broken spring to a good harware store and matched it pretty close. I will see if I have a receipt for it.

Thanks Pete.

On a mid-20's touring car with two piece windshield, which way do you tilt the windows to vent? This only matters relative to the 'h' rubber that goes between the split. The back of the h should be on the inside or outside of the car?

Has anyone got a decent photo of the heat tube? My car didn't have one and I'm going to keep an eye out at Hershey...

Thanks Pete. Good stuff to know if this does become an issue. I don't drive it enough yet for it to be on the 'top 10' list of things to work on.

Interesting link on the Plymouth regulator mod. It sounds like something that could benefit our fours. Anyone try it or something similar?

That's what I have on there Jay. It was difficult to get the covers flat enough to where the gasket would actual impede oil from dripping down the block...

I set mine at 0.010" cold and it seems to operate fine.

I agree!

That is truly smokin' Scott! It looks like the proverbial new body in white..

Looks to be in decent shape but a bit pricey... No affiliation, etc. Model T Haven - Pre WW2

Thanks for the ideas Gentlemen. I did mean the half shaft Ray. It's quite a lump of steel! Considerably beefier than Model T half shafts. When I tried to rotate today, I was just able to do it by hand so the seal had relaxed a bit. I called Tom Meyers and he said it sounded normal; he suggested soaking them in oil while I had only coated them liberally once they were in place. I finally decided to pull the axle back out and take a look and all seemed fine. I slathered some more oil on them and put the axle back in and it was a bit easier to turn. It's also tricky trying to adjust the wheel bearings with the seal gripping tightly since it's hard to tell if you have any end play(manual says there should be 0.005" iirc. I hope this helps when you guys get around to it.