MikeC5

I like it! Are you going to restore or just get it running and keep the patina?

And don't forget the Studebakers on Mr. Ed!

Looks pretty good from here. Beautiful cars....

I'd say that's a fair price. Looks pretty complete except for vacuum tank.

Very cool ride!

It looked like a decent 20 footer but I think you made the right call.

I don't think Myers list the used parts they have available in the catalog. Call or send them an email.

Are you sure the vacuum tank is working? Did you add fuel to vacuum tank to get it started? It will run for a short distance on a manual prime. If vac tank isn't pulling fuel it will soon go lea, run out of gas. If adding another prime to tank gets it going again then the tank isn't working. If it is truly flooding it could be Jon's scenario or perhaps a carb float or needle/seat problem. I had to get a new float for mine - it had small cracks in the brass and was filling with fuel. Luckily, repro floats are available.

That thing corners like it was on rails.... (someone had to say it)....

Excellent choice! When you said you had a soft spot for independents I had a feeling you might end up with a Studebaker. Nice looking, low miles car that isn't very common ( a plus in my book). I know SDC is a good club too. I imagine mechanical parts won't be too difficult to find since Studebaker didn't make too many different engine models. Good luck with it!

I think 3D printers and scanning can make a big difference from the pattern making side of things. Maybe when I retire....

What do the plugs look like? If it's dying due to a flooded condition the plugs should look very sooted up or even wet with gasoline. If they are light colored/whitish, then it's leaning out. If too rich is the problem I would follow advice above. If you suspect lean, the metering valve may not free to move up/down to regulate air flow and air/fuel ratio via the tapered pin attached to metering valve and going through main jet.

That's good. So if you do need to do some major repair you won't be rushed. Be sure to take a good look for major (or poorly repaired) rust.

If u do end up with a 50s or 60s car, keep in mind the non-hardened valve seats will need a lead substitute added to the gas if you plan to put some real miles on it. I drove a slant 6 '65 Barracuda for much of the 90s and compression took a nosedive due to pounded valve seats. Most heads can be re-machined to accept hardened seats.

I didn't think there was anything but AM (amplitude modulation) at the beginning of radio.

Glad to see you got her running! I think there was an article on making a a wheel straightening jig in the DB News archives. I'll see if I can dig it up.

It must be a decimal point error in the starting bid....

Coming along nicely..

Thanks for the info. That sounds like it is a good alternative to new springs.

Where did you get that done and if you dint mind me asking, how much did it cost for the foam?

That really stinks but at least it wasn't so bad that it couldn't be driven home. I agree no fault is a crock in such an obvious situation...

I believe they were nickel plated. Nice looking machine.

Changing oil at short intervals is certainly a good idea for these old machines. One other thing I've read from several sources is that if the engine was designed to not use an oil filter (like mine), you should use non-detergent oil. The reason given is ND oil does not have the additives found in detergent oil that are designed to keep contaminants in suspension (to be removed by filter). In non-filter engines the idea is to let contaminants settle and stay in the sump. Your mileage may vary....

I just like to minimize risk where possible...

I am worried about using conventional AF because I've read that if it gets into the crankcase (via bad head gasket or ?), it can damage the babbit bearings.