1936 D2

The "Brothers" lasted until 1938 then was dropped for 1939.

I had my wiring done at Harnesses Unlimited. They were very helpful adding wiring inside the loom for turn signal wiring and fog lamp wiring. It is invisible. I see in their ads that they also have a looming service. So if you make up your own wiring, they can machine the braided loom over it. All in all though, I would consider having them make the whole harness up (to your specs) completely. It really saves you time and headache.

Photos available?

Hi Kelsey, There is no part on the '36 that looks anything like the one in your photo. The thing that does catch my eye though are the three pointed tangs on the one side. That style of design WAS used on the '36 for metal parts that attach to cloth upholstery pieces like the carpet snaps, the handle escutcheon rings and other assorted metal mounting hardware usually found along the edges of the upholstery pieces somewhere. Could this be some kind of part that would pin into maybe the carpet, like near a seat mounting rail or such? Or is it possible this part was originally covered with fabric and this is the shaping piece for it? Maybe it has something to do with shielding the gas tank filler near the matting in the trunk? It is a bit hard to imagine not knowing the size of the piece. Good luck with this search!

Probably not. I would think the tag application was similar on matching years of Dodge and Plymouth. That maroon '36 Dodge that is used in many reference sets of photos has quite a few things "wrong" with it and should not be taken as gospel. The photos from that frame off restoration maroon '36 Dodge look very nice but whom ever did the restore was not careful about authenticity. For instance: The top red Manufacturer's Tag is correct (so is Ian's) but the lower Body Number Tag (with the word "MoPar" at the top) is wrong for the '36. Both of these tags were originally held on with pan head machine screws. (Also, many of the engine compartment decals were for later model cars, not the '36). The black Serial Number Tag looks correct. It is readable from the outside of the vehicle (bottom to top with the words in the inside edge). This seems to hold true for Dodges and Plymouths of this age, be they Domestic or Export, made in the US or Canada, or Australia. This tag is held in place with a drive screw (no slot in head) for "security" purposes. Typical Serial Number Tag - ('36 Plym): Typical Firewall Tags - ('36 Plym). Note black rectangular Body Number Tag: Typical Firewall Tags - ('36 Dodge). Note red oval Body Number Tag. Says "Body Number" at the top: Typical Serial Number Tag - ('36 Dodge) showing location, tag direction and screw nails: Serial Number Tag on Export model '36 Dodge 7 Passenger Limo:

Supposed to be two maybe? And the one guy just got too far behind on his side of the assembly line so he skipped it knowing there was another fastener on the other side. Also knew that the "inspector" would never catch it? Just some human nature observation thoughts.

Hi Rick, If possible, could you take the same set of photos but force the flash on on your camera to fill in detail? I do understand that it is tough to get shots inside of a trailer but using the flash will help immensely. Also, can you grab some detail shots of engine, dash and running gear? All of this will help folks here make value judgments about your car more easily. Thanks! And good luck with the sale!

"Kelsey" - very sorry for the delayed response.The current catalog from "Steele" shows that the two numbers "jpage" refers to are the current correct numbers for your car's windshield gaskets. And take note I mention gaskets in the plural. The '36's windshield is a bit different than the '37. It is pointed on the bottom two corners where yours is rounded just like the top corners. When you go to the "Steele" site, you enter your car info on the left and it shows all of the gaskets that work for any models with the criteria you enter. So some of the gasket selections shown may be for possibly truck versions or possibly export versions. You have to be a bit careful when making a selection. But again, I think "jpage" has identified the correct gaskets for your car. The following are a few photos of the gasket applications to my '36 Dodge D2. They are similar and for reference only in the case of your '37. The first shot here shows the two gaskets as installed on the '36. The second shot shows the indentation of the windshield frame gasket fitting the shape of the outer edge of the frame. This is the part where some have installed the gasket inside out causing a poor fit both on the edge of the frame and then getting the wrong flair as the gasket pulls up on the body surface when the windshield is closed. I would think this gasket would fit in a similar fashion on the '37 except it is in a continuous loop where the '36 version needs to be cut and glued together at the tips of the bottom corners. The inner gasket comes in two sections. The bottom piece is sort of form fitted as "jpage" has described. It has two ends that go up the side of the body opening about 3" or so and has an opening in the center for the window crank out tape. The other piece is fitted around the rest of the opening except where the top hinges are. Then the bottom two corners of this gasket are Super Glued to the tops of the bottom pieces' ends, making a full surround except for the hinge areas. http://www.steelerubber.com/ (Use the search on the left of this web page for either vehicle description info OR specific part number search.) The 40-0018-52 number gasket is the one that I used on the '36. This is a straight length of gasket material. It is not formed in the 107 & 3/8" loop that is specified by the number "jpage' mentioned. It seems as though the gasket is the same material shape. Just one is made into the loop for the '37 windshield frame and the other is an 11 foot length that needs to be cut and fit to length for the '36. The body side gasket is the same for both cars. You can also see that the body gasket is quite spongy and takes on the shape of what is pressed into it. On my '36's body side gasket you can see the screws from the back side of the window frame lower corners leaving indentations in this skinned foam gasket down in the lower corners. I also THINK that the cars with static , non-movable windshields my be the ones mentioned by others as having the single gasket set. Those windshields that crank out have the double gasket sets. I think this should now pretty much answer the windshield gasket questions for you. (I hope).

If the '37 fitment is anything like the '36 I may have some points. The '36 uses a double gasket setup. One section is applied to the static opening in the body and makes for a place that the inner edge of the windshield frame presses against as it closes. The second gasket piece is fitted into the glass frame. This one follows the movable glass frame back toward the body opening and makes the "outer" seal. The two pieces working together seal the windshield. It is common for people to install the outer gasket piece inside out. This will cause the outer glass frame to sit too far out and prevent the inside edge of that frame from sitting against the inner gasket. If the '37's system uses any of these features the most common issue is messed up gasket placement. Maybe look closely at that as the possible issue.

When I read your question I was thinking the exact same thing that "ply33" offered. My instance was just yesterday! I heard this noise from the bell housing area directly after the starter stopped. I knew it was that the gears did not fully un-mesh. Could tell by the sound. The starter's push arm return spring may be weak or possibly even broken. Or the mechanism may be slightly bent or gummed up. When you stop pushing the starter floor button, this mechanism must fully release. So, I suppose it is now possible that what ever was holding up the starter mechanism may have released. All in all the reason for the noise could be hard to pin down.

It looks as though it is aligned with the exhaust pipe which seems to now be touching the frame member. I am suspecting it is part of an exhaust pipe hangar bracket. I have no further info. Just a thought because of the proximity of the exhaust pipe joint proximity to the rubberized mounting.

Any shots available of the inside lower pointed corners (close up)? Also the hinge areas? Any dents in the stainless?

Spreading the word near us. Thoughts and prayers going out!

Looks very much like an electrical part called a fahnestock clip. https://www.google.com/search?q=fahnestock+clip&safe=off&rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS520US520&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=kKcBUsvDGKSniQKrnoGwAg&ved=0CDgQsAQ&biw=1229&bih=589

I spoke to a few people who had their cars in the Johnny Depp movie "Public Enemy". A few were a bit put off by the lack of care for the cars. Some made comments about the LONG hours of waiting, sometimes in the rain, for their "turn". All the cars were sprayed with Fuller's Earth to make them less shiny. (It gets everywhere!) But once you put up with all the "stuff", and the project is done, they all pretty much were happy to have done it. But they had to put up with A LOT!

Absolutely right guys. Thanks for the corrections!

Seems like you would still have all the same issues as a normal breaker point system - because it is still using the breaker points! So, the thing is some kind of "regulated" condenser? What else can it be considering the way it is connected? If this system still uses the points then they will still affect the timing, will be susceptible to things like point bounce, wear and water. Why not just have the distributor rebuilt to specs, new springs and points installed and maybe a new coil. Again, the original engineering works fine if it is up to the original engineering specs. If you want to go "electronic" then you need to go all the way and get rid of the points. That's the idea of "electronic ignition". "Pertronix" is the only game out there that I am aware of, and the distributor needs to be working smoothly - bushings and all - even then.

I also agree with "ply33" and "R.White". Look at all the things you needed to think about (post #178) just to have half a concept of what would happen in reversing the cars engineered polarity! You now have the right idea. Stay with the car as engineered. Just consider when you have electrical issues in the future and came on the Forum to ask for help. Everyone would be thinking about positive ground, you would constantly have to describe the changes you made to negative ground just to have a meaningful conversation, and all the folks trying to help would be wondering why in heck you did that! Also, considering the starter is just a DC motor, it would run backward when attempting to start the car. You would have to rebuild that completely. There would probably be issues with distributor point wear also. And every time you went into the electrical system to work on a section of it you would have to reverse your thinking concerning the polarity of the wiring diagrams. Things like how meters work and the internal design of the ignition coil, say nothing about how test equipment would be connected! All this is just a messy idea and you don't want to go there. It is right to leave the original engineering the way it was designed and strive to make it work correctly and efficiently according to those engineering plans. That's some of the cool stuff about working with an old car!

And the factory chalk markings inside the doors are interesting too! Nice "take apart" shot.

Ohhhh.... Except all us others following the info on this forum don't get the benefit of the description of the tests used. Shucks. Sounds like it may have been some good stuff. The tests apparently isolated the problem to the cutoff. Sigh...

True. Since this poly tank has a venting feature and there is none on the original style tank, I suspect your "leak" is coming from this vent. The original tanks use a vented cap (which is probably illegal now) to vent fumes into the atmosphere and air into the tank as the fuel is extracted. Newer cars have a vapor canister that recycle these vapors back to the tanks from the engine area. This is what the vent is for on your poly tank. Of course, since there is no canister system on the original cars, your tank vent connection is open. That is the most likely place for your "leak". I would check about getting a rubber fuel line piece and extend the tank's vent opening as high as you can. Finish this vent line in a "J" shape with the opening pointing down. This will help prevent deep water from entering the tank vent. Then it will match the idea of the vented gas cap and also prevent liquid fuel from leaking out of the tank. Also, maybe stop your fill at the first click of the pump.

I don't know much about plastic tanks myself, but I would think that if you get the tank to a point where it is clean and dry on the outside (be sure to remove the cap so expansion pressure doesn't keep the leak going) then jostle the car a bit so the fuel just starts to leak. Follow the fuel leak back to the source. Most likely will be a gasket area but you could have a small hole from a scratch in the plastic near the mounting straps or such. Either way, this fresh leak should help direct you back to the source. Also, do the plastic tanks have some type of pressure release valve on the top of them to prevent an over pressure situation from expanding fuel? A check with the manufacturer of the tank will answer this question.

I have rebuilt my AC Model "B" fuel pump for my 1936 Dodge according to the instructions sent with the rebuild kit from "Then & Now Automotive". The kit was very complete and had a copy of AC Fuel Pump Rebuild Instructions - probably from a "Motors Manual" (pgs 185 to 194). The only thing I was not clear on is the treatment of the new diaphragm during the install. I know the new kit's diaphragm is of a material resistant to the new ethanol fuels, but the older instructions speak of soaking the diaphragm in kerosene before assembly in order to relax the layers of the material and give the layers a bit of "lubrication". (These older diaphragms were made of about 5 layers of a dense yet thin canvas style of material impregnated with a rubber substance. Soaking them first made sense back then.) The older instructions also speak of pumping the cam rocker arm a full stroke twice and letting it snap back twice just before the final tightening of the six cover screws. This is to stretch the new diaphragm into its operating position before the final tightening of the cover. I found that when I did this I was able to move the new pump diaphragm until the bottom metal diaphragm protector touched the body of the chamber and stopped! It seemed quite hard to move the cam pump arm during this procedure (at all). It was very stiff because of the new diaphragm material I suspect. I am using the same original springs under the pump arm. The one under the diaphragm shaft was painted white and the one under the center of the arm was painted yellow. I take this to mean there were two different strength springs here, even though they looked the same. The new kit only came with one spring that was of a similar shape and size but not painted any color. There were, again, no specific instructions in the kit concerning these springs or the new style diaphragm, only the copy of the older manual pages. Am I supposed to use the new spring in the kit under the diaphragm shaft? If so, is that necessary if the original springs seemed fine? Why is there then only one in the kit and not two if it is necessary to replace? Is it still required to soak the new diaphragm material in kerosene prior to installation even though the new diaphragm does not seem to be at all able to "absorb" the kerosene? Currently the cam pump arm travel on the rebuild is a very stiff (two thumbs) 3/32" or 2.5mm. The travel (an easy single thumb) of the older original porous diaphragm was about 1/4" or 11 mm during the actual pumping time. There also was some "slack" movement of the old cam pump arm prior to actual pump valve movement. Thanks for any help offered. I would like to finish the install today (Sunday) but "Then & Now" is not open today for inquiries. The pump is fully rebuilt (?) according the the "Motor Manual" instructions just waiting for install.

WOW! Nice job on those door handles! I'm sure the plater will appreciate the excellent start on them!

Yup. My information has it that these "later" versions were sprayed, most likely because of the "metallics" in the paints (starting in '35 as I recall) and a concerted effort by the manufacturers to save money. It would be harder to keep the metallics in suspension evenly in a big tank of dip paint than what can be controlled in a sprayer. I would guess that they would have spray painted the parts for coverage about the same way as the dipped versions except for the satin black used on the floors and cowl/firewall (as earlier described).