1936 D2

"countrytravler" - Some good shots of the original interior views of the lower flat rubber seal. You get a good idea of the thickness of the flat seal and how the top's bolt on connection points are electrically isolated so the top panel can act as the radio antenna. But a couple detailed shots of the outer seal would be most helpful if you think your car's top outer is original. The rubber blocks are there just to cover the tips of the bolts so passengers would not rip their heads open on the ends of the bolts by mistake. They also helped keep the headliner material laying flat and correctly. When my '36 was taken down for painting the body man said that the outer seal was just some sort of an "applied goo" (as he put it). There was no separate rubber seal in the groove he said. Attached are a couple photos (last two) of the same area on another '36 I am working on but has already been sand blasted and epoxy primed. That blaster also said there was no shaped rubber seal in the groove, just some kind of sealant. He commented it was still doing a good job of sealing but was able to be blasted off the surface of the groove. 36 Dodge very old top seal. Looks like some sort of sealant, not a rubber gasket. This car was originally "Mercury Metallic" and was oversprayed with white many years prior to these photos in an attempt at preservation (apparently). 36 Dodge with top panel fully removed. 36 Dodge with top outer seal blasted away and body epoxy primed. 36 Dodge top groove closeup - no seal (sandblasted out) and groove epoxy primed. When my avatar car was finished, we used a urethane sealant (from a tube) to fill the groove after the paint was cured. 36 Dodge - top groove sealed with urethane after paint.

Whoops! A live and learn moment. Here's a (late) tip. Always go for the least aggressive techniques first. Maybe try using a solvent on that rust first. There are some out there that will remove the rust and not disturb the plating or paint finish around the rust. There have been numerous posts on this Forum concerning rust removal. Personally, I like "EvapoRust" as a first line rust remover. Others here like to use a form of electrolysis (but that could be harder with the parts still on the car). The radiator frame is plated in nickel (not chrome) so replating costs are just a tad cheaper (usually). Actually, as far as I know, there is NO chrome on your car. It's too old for that style of finish. It looks like you are anxious to get going on the car but I think you will find a lot of us would suggest to slow a bit and take some extra time to do some research about the "best" way to proceed to the ends that you are hoping for on any of your needed operations. The radiator damage IS going to be problematic, just like you sensed in your "aaaw sh**" moment. But I am sure there will be suggestions on the Forum here as to how to "make that all better". Good luck as you soldier on!

So did you braze or solder the coupler to the hole in the bottom of the window opening? How did you get that connection point smooth enough to allow water to easily flow into the small diameter tubing? I guess those were my main questions.

BTW Rogillio : Where are you in this great big car loving world?

Oh my! That LOOKS like a very nice ORIGINAL Coupe! Once you do your research you may find it is better to keep it as original as possible and just do the necessary maintenance to have everything working up to spec. You can also do some "creative" cleanup to make it look the best it can at its advanced age. But the aged look is the charm of it all! Plus people researching info on these very nice older models have something original to go by. There is value in that! You will find Parts and Mechanical Manuals to be necessary. Membership in marquis clubs is also very helpful. Hey guys - aren't the wood parts in these older Dodges all made of Ash? I thought I heard that somewhere. It was because the grain was much tighter hence a stronger piece of wood??? Also, thought I heard mentioned that the early paints were Nitrocellulose. That would not have lead in it. BUT AGAIN, maybe you don't really want to "sand stuff" anyway until a solid decision is made on "original" or "restoration". Just saying... You are pretty early in the game yet. Have fun with your car and keep us informed as time goes by. You will find a lot of help here on the Forum.

Kelsey, could you bend in a pretzel and get a couple close-up shots of how you did the mod on those drain holes for us? That would be cool!

Oops. Ok. Now I know what you are talking about. (Sometimes I am a bit slow!) Yes, there are two windshield channel drains, one in each lower corner. And yes, they do not go anywhere in particular. They are just a hole and open behind the dash. (Head scratch!) I guess the theory is that if both windshield gasket layers are working correctly then these holes are sealed and should not leak. Again, I still think that the '37 has the double gasket setup on the windshield just like my '36. I don't think this system changed until they stopped using the crank out windshield. This should be able to be confirmed by checking the Parts Manual for the '37 and seeing what gaskets are used. Hope this helps somewhat.

Well said, "1935du". Well said!

Here are some words of encouragement Dennis and Shannon. You are doing a fantastic job. I fully understand the amount of time it takes to do the investigating concerning "originality". Especially knowing the history that you do. (BTW, that story will be very interesting once it is all compiled and told.) Plus, you yourselves are adding quite a piece of history to this vehicle as you go. So respecting the background like you have is very admirable and keeping track of what you are doing, like you are, will be extra special to those in the future! Can't wait to see the finished product!

Just for info... The '36 has a single vent drain that is about 3/8" as I recall and drains just through the firewall via one of the rubber grommet sets. The hose goes through the grommet about 3/4" and ends in a sharp cut off. Water from the cowl vent then just drops to the ground in the engine compartment. (Thought this was the way they all worked!) This only uses about a foot or so of tubing. The cheapest route. BTW: I think the 1/8" tubing would be too small because of the water tension idea and also any trash or dirt that may make its way into the cowl drain system.

OHOOooo. Too bad! With all of your experience you probably would have been a good fit for this car. But once the decision is made... I know it must have been a tough one. Only thing WE can ask is that you try to do your best to sell to a restorer and not a rodder. Yes, I know you can have the wool pulled over your eyes by a buyer, but this car is SUCH a nice original that rodding would/should almost be a crime. I think you have the price at a good starting place. The thing to remember is that it is a Dodge and not an over priced Chev or Ford! As you can see from this Forum, there are people out here that would have an interest in restoring or at least owning a piece of history so you should be able to do OK. A side thought... since you ARE the current titled owner, maybe consider getting a copy of the "Build Record" for that car from The Chrysler Historical Collection. There is A LOT of interesting information on that record and would impress the possible purchasers with the historic background of that particular car which could both help uphold the value AND help keep the buyer thinking historically about the car. Good luck. And if you should change your mind, remember the Forum and all the help you can get from the people here!

Maybe this is the person? http://www.maxwellenamels.com/Home_Page.html

peter.k Maybe check this Loctite product out (number 577). http://www.loctite.de/komplette-produktliste-loctite-29728.htm?countryCode=de&BU=industrial&parentredDotUID=productfinder&redDotUID=000001F74B This may be the type of thing you will need for that leaking manifold stud bolt. peter.k Vielleicht überprüfen Sie das Loctite-Produkt aus (Nummer 577). http://www.loctite.de/komplette-produktliste-loctite-29728.htm?countryCode=de&BU=industrial&parentredDotUID=productfinder&redDotUID=000001F74B Dies ist die Art von was Sie benötigen für diese undichte Krümmer Stehbolzen.

From "1930" - "Th colors chart on Myers/Romars web-site is a copy of an original page from a sales brochure, the information is accurate.," Would you hot link that page for us? I can't find it either.

Here are some shots I found of '36 Dodge RS Coupes. Hope the owners are ok with posting on this educational Forum!) First is a US Domestic RS Coupe with a trunk rack: Second is a another US Domestic RS Coupe with a differently styled trunk rack mounting: Third is an Australian RS Coupe with just a rear mounted spare. In this version you can see the spare seems to be located a bit lower or closer to the bumper than the version on your car. Also, these shots make your rear tire cover seem way to large in diameter. Good luck with all of your projects!

Hey Paul! Been pretty curious as to how "dodge36MA" has been doing on the '36 Dodge D2 restoration. I know it has been a pretty crappy winter but do you have any recent photos? Keep us up to date please! :cool:

Photos yes! Especially things that show the differences between US built and Aus built cars! If your car is "mainly original", try to keep it that way. There is getting to be quite a following for cars that are original and "unmolested". Try to verify what is original on your car. This may become important in the future especially for the more rare Aus built cars. There is a lot of knowledge on this Forum about how to keep your car as original as possible especially speaking of the paint, interior and finding parts yet still make it presentable and driveable. Welcome to the Forum!

Check this previous thread... http://forums.aaca.org/f143/looking-info-san-jose-car-dealer-339315.html

Here is another shot showing the linkage connections for the auto-choke on a '36 using a Carter carb. The Stromberg connections are very similar. The cable connection at the center right of the photo is the "Throttle" cable connection point.

Tubular shocks - late '30's. Corrugated rubber covers for U-Joints again late '30's. Should be able to date the heat riser valve because of it's shape. Carter B&B Carb. Pad for engine number seems ground down lower than the usual casting height. Engine number "RBM" - "Re Built Motor" possibly? Should be able to get some dating off the numbers on the starter tag.

"J"... It's a "Sisson Co." electric choke. Looks pretty much like this: depending on application and mounting location on the exhaust manifold. I THINK '38's were still using a "Throttle Cable" that connects to the carb linkage and is used to control the high idle on start-up of a cold engine, but I am not positive on that.

Would you consider throwing the backing plates, shoes, cylinders and anchor bolts my way if they are just headed for the junk? Working on a project now. I would pay shipping! Tnks.

Hi "New Gal"! (Not so new anymore though. You have 8 posts in at this point already!) Taking an already (possibly severely) modified car and working with it is not that big of a deal on this forum. It's the guys that take a perfectly restorable or possibly even an already nicely restored car and (gulp) hot rod it. But, you may want to consider this idea. With all of the re-engineering you will have to do on your project and all the personality you will be putting into your car, why not consider calling it (and registering it as) a 2014 Kimmobile or such. That will at least leave the "Dodge Brothers" engineering credit to the the Chrysler Company and the Dodge model name and you would start to establish the credit for all of your personal engineering design. That may also help some of the "purists" here on the Dodge Brothers Forum get along with your project. Let's see some "before" shots before you forget.

Here's another possibility... http://waldronexhaust.com/cart/index.php?cPath=61_36_126

Please see my edits in post #2. As you can see, there are some pretty subtle differences in these items, both the shields themselves and the ornaments especially between models and years. When looking at just one of these shields (like at a swap meet), you could be hard pressed to find the correct item you are looking for. You do see MANY Chrysler items, quite a few DeSoto items, and almost never Dodge or Plymouth. And that pretty much follows how the parts were produced for production needs. Pretty much all I can say is do some research, know what you need specifically (good luck with that!) and then make your purchases. There still is a fair chance you will mess up and get the wrong ones! But don't worry too much, many more have done the same before you!