1936 D2

But we could assume that the new 1935 truck would have received some level of regular service at least into the '50's, hence the service stickers that have now come unglued.

Looks like a service station oil change sticker location.

So Mike... Did you re-core with honeycomb? A few bucks there I suppose!

You could try this company. Atwater Kent Manufacturing Co 12 Jacques St Worcester MA (508) 792-9500 They used to have a web site but I can't find it now. They rebuilt gas tank gauges as part of the business and the charge was in the area of like $150.00 per unit as I recall. They had a couple week turnaround time.

Some of the "chrome" is actually stainless steel. Those parts may now just be looking dull but not rusted. Other "chrome" is actually regular steel with plating. Generally this plating consists of a layer of copper, covered by a layer of nickel to render the silver color. Your '35 would then have a third very thin layer of chromium. This protects the silvery (but somewhat yellow) nickel layer with a fairly hard bluish /clear layer of chrome. That is then the finished look. The stainless steel parts can be straightened if necessary and all of it can then be polished to a high shine. The chrome can be cleaned to some extent, mainly to remove any rust forming over the top of the chrome layer, but if there is any pitting this means the three layers have been compromised and the steel below is being affected (rusting). To make it look perfect again these parts will need to be completely replated. If you are liking the bit pitted older looking patina then just cleaning the rust off the chrome and the application of a good wax may be all you need. It is all about personal taste and size of pocketbook. There have been other posts in the past discussing how to clean chrome.

Ooooh. Cool! (I bet THOSE are expensive!) But glad to see them!

Nope. Only the Engine Number. At least on the US domestic vehicles.

The only number on the frame is the original Engine Number starting with "D2-" for US built cars. The only copy of the Serial Number is on the black and silver tag riveted to the "A" pillar (hinge pillar) of the right front door.

Just remember this guy back in August of 2012 !!!

Have you tried here: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/search/?type=post

Oh Nooooo!!! Come on Drew. Hang in there! Now is the time that progress starts showing itself! It may not LOOK like it but progress is happening! Your Dad would be happy just because you took on this project! It has this family connection and who better to see it through than a family member! I'm glad you MAY only be tempted! So, it sound like you have gotten quite a way along since you last reported! The "ratty" part of the interior is gone so "the boss" should be happier now (and you too I might add). With the front clip off you have massive access to the engine and front frame areas. So now the fun begins! The glass is ready to take out to a glass shop to have replacements made. It is all flat glass so that is not a big deal. (I would make sure you are using safety glass for the replacements though). So, has that #2 piston come loose yet? While the drive train is still whole, this may be the time to try and get the first rotation from the engine if you haven't already. Everything is in the wide open to work with. A good cleaning and machined truing of the head is ripe right now too. Replacing the brake lines and rebuilding the wheel and master cylinders also would be much easier now with all the access room. Besides, you will want good brakes when you get 'er moving! I think we talked about wiring earlier too. This may be the right time to replace the main body harness if you are still intending to keep with the original paint finish on the body. If you have changed your mind and intend to do a full paint job, then the harness should wait. So, what do you think of all this at this point. Hope you don't "give up"! This is where the "fun" begins! Please keep us informed!

IMHO... Shouldn't we be supporting the path that "120mm" started some years ago rather than trying to "pick the bones clean"? Maybe check with "countrytravler" in a PM. He has a parts car I think. Also, there is one in Canada that a contributor is trying to part with.

This post relates to the one just prior (#196) from "countrytravler" checking up on "120mm". It would be proper Forum etiquette for "allsteel" to either start a new thread asking for parts or to send a PM to "countrytravler" with the question.

This is a response from posts made August 15th & 16th of 2012. (#'s 49,59 & 60). Time warp!

Oh... The hubcap lock is probably different than the ignition or door keys.

If you are able to get a copy of your Build Record from Chrysler Historical, you may be able to find out the key number for the spare locks if the car originally had them and they are still the same ones. A good (and old) locksmith may have the key cut records for that key number so may be able to make keys for the spare's hubcap locks. Just a thought.

As long as your insurance is cool with others driving your antique, go for it! Everyone will never forget the event! Maybe even try to stay in a "character" of some type related to the car. Like a "time warp".

Picture?

Does this help? (Google is a wonderful thing). 50's era is a bit out of our usual realm here. Looks like the 50 DeSoto taillights are similar if not the same.

Nice tool collection with that one too Vic!

After doing a search on the Forum I found this info from a previous post: Chrysler LLC Corporate Historical Collection 12501 Chrysler Fwy. CIMS 410-11-21 Detroit, MI 48288 USA Attn: Historical Information Email: archives@wpchryslermuseum.org Fax: (313) 252-2928 http://www.chryslergroupllc.com/company/heritage/pages/historical-services.aspx Click on the "Build Cards" hot link. ( http://www.chryslergroupllc.com/company/Heritage/Pages/Build-Records.aspx ) I have updated this above info with the current hotlink info.

I see the sediment bowl from the fuel pump is sitting on the head in your photo. Once replaced that should catch the particulate sediment from the gas tank if the screen above it is in good condition. This is the correct AC Fuel Pump. The correct carburetor for your '36 Dodge is a Stromberg EXV-2. The Carter B&B that you seem to have there is a common replacement carb that seemed to be used on the D2. It is from Dodge trucks and was also used originally on Plymouth of the era. I also saw in your photo that the intake and exhaust manifold are not coming up evenly to the engine block. You mentioned that the two parts were separated at one time. If that's the case you MUST loosen the two halves when you tighten the manifolds to the block. If you don't you will crack the manifolds as you tighten them down or stress them so that sometime in the future they will crack. If the manifolds did not come together (one is a replacement), you will have to tighten the two halves together and then have the block mating surfaces machined flat - together. Also, do not machine the surfaces between the two manifolds unless very poorly mating. If too much material is taken from the square surfaces between the manifolds, they will not line up with the mounting studs on the block later. Take it from one who knows! Time to start a new thread here instead of hijacking the original. Sorry "dodge36MA".

Haha. Oops. Was assuming your wheel was original. Guess not. There will be other rubber parts in the front driving compartment that will be brown if your car uses them as original. Things like the pedals, floor mat, steering column seal, floor shift and emergency brake seals, etc. If those are black then most likely the car came with black rubber originally. It sort of looks like (from the photo) that you have brown rubber from looking at the steering column seal. The best way to find out all this stuff is to apply for the build record from Chrysler Historical for your car (using the Serial Number). Then you will find out all sorts of interesting things about the car like the original color, interior colors and fabrics, options, build date, dealer delivered to, and other cool stuff.

The fitment of that eBay item is right. Is your interior rubber the brown color or black? Your steering wheel will be brown too if that is the interior rubber color for your car. That's the only thing you need to consider from this sale - brown or black.

It was by an eBay vendor about 2 years ago. I just grabbed the shots with his permission to use on the site here for reference. I'm sure you will be able to locate other similar ones out there yet. Sorry.