1936 D2

Here are some shots of what the 4Dr Touring Sedan Trunk Lid Handle looks like...

Sounds like this info relates to Citizens' Band Radio considering it speaks about "Channels", the early ones with only 23 available. Entertainment radios in cars used "Frequencies" to delineate differences in licensed transmitted information. Everything I have seen concerning the earliest car entertainment radios is that the Frequency range in the US was in what is now known as the AM Band. If a vehicle intended for export was fitted with an entertainment radio it would need to have been usable in the receiving Country. It is reasonable to assume that the Frequency limitations may have been different in other Countries so export radios would have to match that particular Country's Frequency Ranges. With all of the possible differences in these Frequency Ranges I am also tending to think that radios may not have actually been exported by Dodge / Chrysler Corp. The radio HEADS may have been installed in an export vehicle to maintain the design look of the dash, but the radio "box" itself was probably aftermarket and would come from the receiving Country. Just some thoughts.

In the mean time, try to avoid the ethanol gas. That alcohol has a very detrimental affect to the older synthetic parts in the fuel system. I have found a non-alcohol mid-grade fuel at my local farm supply fuel mart at 89 octane. The octane is pretty high for these old cars (that I understand used a fuel back in the day that was at about a modern 50 octane rating) but That's about all there is for options now-a-days. The issue with the higher octane rated fuels is that they seem to be a lot more volatile than the '20's & '30's fuels. This causes trouble with carburation, boil off, vapor lock, etc. Something to keep an eye on while having fun driving your "new" truck!

You guys should continue contact here while discussing your common issues. Then others can benefit from your discussions too. And maybe someone else will have the answers to your questions as well! You never know until it happens! That's the beauty of a Forum!

That's all interesting information "countrytravler", but how does all that info help answer the original question? Am I missing something?

The biggest problem I have personally observed with attaching the original style Tricos is that people miss the groove for the "C" ring to slide into. It sometimes seems as though the arm is installed properly but without the "C" ring being fully in the groove, and there being enough spring pressure pulling on the arm to hold it there, they may pop off at any time. You have to pull out on the arm after installation to make sure the "C" ring is fully in the groove on the wiper motor shaft end fitting. The last time I had one come off my '36 was just three weeks ago on my way home from the Iola, WI Old Car Show in a big cross wind. But the problem with that attachment was that the brass fitting on the end of the wiper motor shaft had cracked longitudinally and was not tight on the shaft. The cross wind was too much of a strain on the cracked part and the wiper and the fitting flew off. By the time I went back around to pick it up a dump truck had run it over! (I am also in the market for a new wiper arm!)

Yea...I should have known with the "imported_" part added to the user name. Duh'O And THAT's why the link doesn't work!

Apparently I need a "Freeservers" membership to see your site. Can you just post some photos here? A lot of times these links don't work well.

The style arm in your last hot link (showing the "Vintique" after market style arm) is the most correct version for the car (at least for the '36). The other two styles are too "new". (But again, I am not absolutely sure for the '37). That is probably why the others don't fit very well. The arms and blades are originally "Trico" products, just like the wiper motors. The only thing is that the ones you show in the last eBay link are too short as far as I know. The arms and blades should be a bit longer than 8", again - at least on the '36. The other thing I also noticed on the "Vintique" arm is that the bend on the end that attaches to the wiper motor shaft must be at 90 degrees and the photo of the arm in the ad seems like it is not bent to the full 90 degrees. That also could cause a fitment issue. When you are clipping this "Trico" style arm on the wiper motor shaft, are you getting the rotating "C" shaped retainer clip in the cover fully engaged in the groove of the wiper motor shaft? Try pulling out on the arm after setting this "C" retainer clip to make sure it is staying in the groove in the shaft.

Would you be able to tell us how you did that process with some detailed instructions? I know this question has come up before.

Here are some shots: The three holes... (1) Under front manifold stud nut (2) Large hold around fuel pump air dome (3) Small one on the end of the long diaphragm stud, top of fuel pump.

This door quarter window was also probably a design feature that would allow the rear door's window to fully roll down. If not for the quarter window, the door's rolling window would only be able to go partially down.

I would have spent all my time at the show looking at your ORIGINAL car and probably very little time with the two next to you. I would have hoped you were there to tell me all about why you kept the car original, some of the adventures you had in preparing it to drive to the show and some of the fun you have had while driving it - (all the time trying not to drool on it).

Here is some additional info I found in my "horde". Maybe there is something in here to help. Pilot Bushing NOS MoPar #53298 pilot bushing for the rear of the crankshaft for 1924, 1925, 1926, 1927, 1928, 1929, 1930, 1931, 1932, 1933, 1934, 1935, 1936, 1937, 1938, 1939, 1940, 1941, 1942, 1946, 1947, 1948, 1949, 1950, 1951, 1952, 1953, 1954, 1955, 1956, 1957, 1958, 1959, 1960, 1961, 1962, 1963, 1964, 1965, 1966, 1967, 1968, 1969, 1970, 1971, 1972, 1973, 1974, 1975, 1976, 1977, 1978, 1979, 1980, 1981, 1982, 1983, 1984, 1985, 1986, 1987, 1988 , this is made of patented MoPar OILITE. Cuda, Charger, Duster, Valiant, GTX, Hemi, Superbird, Coronet, Super Bee, Road Runner, Fury, 300, New Yorker, Windsor, R/T, Challenger, Dart, Firedome, Adventurer, Signet, 500, 440, 330, Polara, Monaco, Special Deluxe, Wayfarer, 880, Matador, D500, Custom Royal Lancer, Newport, Coronado, Sportsman, A100, D100, Daytona, W100, Barracuda, Swinger, Suburban Made In USA! I.D 0.753, O.D.0.940, .880 TALL I have no personal knowledge of the accuracy of this information. This is for your inspection only!

This is highly possible!

Plater? The center hinge is stainless, as is all the straight trim - except the grille center, ornaments and door handles. (Bumpers are plated too of course.) It should just need polishing. :eek: BTW: The hinge is 42 " long and has 20 rivet holes - (at least in the passenger's side it does.)

Dan: Could you let us 60 some viewers know what you found was the problem and what you ultimately did to solve it? Photos would be extra cool! Thanks!

Try this: It is from the "Condensed Master Parts List - 1936-1942" #D-12219. The Master Cylinders are the same from 1937 through 1940. Also, be sure all the parts are facing the correct direction otherwise they could bind or not function properly. The cylinder bore should be cleaned well, fully honed to smooth, and all ports should be cleared (chemically - not with wire or drills). Coat all parts with "Brake Assembly Lube" or a very light coating of brake fluid. Assembly Lube is best.

Ooooo, this could pan out to be a really interesting thread! Thanks for the idea '30DodgePanel'! Hope there is A LOT of follow through!

Oh my gosh! Look at that nice original car! There are going to be a lot of people drooling over that one! Excellent job on that '1935DU'. Overjoyed that you decided to stick with this one! It is SUCH a nice car! You will have to get your application in to The Chrysler Historical Collection and get your copy of the build record. You'll love looking at that. Hoping all goes as the Doctors expect with your wife. This can be a really tough time for you guys but just stick with it. There is plenty of excellent help out there for both of you!

HA! "Takes money to make......" a corner on the market! So, is it politely time to start "bashing" now? I think those lights have effectively been "removed from the market" now and will sit on a (particular) dusty shelf with many other needed parts for a long time. :mad:

Year and model of vehicle? Brand and model number of carb? (These types of pieces of info should be in ALL of your posts' "Subject Line". This will help others search for the subject of your question AND therefore may help with garnering responses).

Year and type of vehicle? Maybe photo of the part you have?

Wow Vic! That is coming along nicely! Excellent job!

Hi David! It is important that anyone who drives this grand old car has a good working knowledge of its abilities and disabilities (from today's standards). These cars were not designed and built in a time of modern expressways and high speed driving. Therefore they should be driven on roads that more exemplify the time period they were designed for. This is all part of owning and caring for these old vehicles. Join a club related to the model of car you have or a general club that covers cars of that vehicle's time period. Talk to other drivers of these vehicles. Be sure to have the Grandkids along when you do. They will be able to learn right along with you about how the car works, some of the history of the time period and safe operation of the vehicle. There is no need to destroy a perfectly well operating piece of history in an effort to modify it to do something it was never designed for. If it is imperative to drive on the modern expressways in your area, then consider a '60's or '70s car for the Grandkids. Even some of those you will need to "learn" about to operate safely because of their lack of seat belts in some early models, non-collapsible steering columns, lack of crush zones, single hydraulic vs dual hydraulic braking systems and on and on. The point being is each of these old wonders have contributed to driving history in their own way for a very long time. We should honor that history of design, and expanded ability to travel by learning about and using the cars in a fashion compatible with their time period. It is great to drive at 25 MPH with the wind in your hair, smelling the farm fields, and wondering what you will see around the next corner. THAT is what an old car is about. If a grand old piece of iron is modified beyond its original design purpose it is no longer a piece of history but a play thing for those with deep pockets. It moves into a whole different realm. You own a great piece of history. Make it serve you and the rest of the public by showing itself off and being the ambassador it is for its past. There are safe ways to do this and you have a great start here on the Forum. Talk to people. Find out how to make the car work up to the specifications it was designed with. It will serve you well. But don't try to make it something it is not. Enjoy it for what it is and can be.