1936 D2

Jean, Glad to see you were able to get yourself registered! You will find this Forum to be the correct place for questions on your Dodge. Give it a bit of time and I would think someone out there will finally read your post and have a definitive answer to your question. I was wondering myself if RHD cars were exported directly from the US or took other routes to Europe (like through Canada or such). I had heard in the past that exports from the US were highly taxed by other countries so sometimes the cars, or parts of cars, were routed through different countries not affected by those taxes. But I am not so sure how that worked to European countries at the time. We will have to wait and see how this all comes out as others respond. I see you figured out how to post photos. Great! Very nice looking car there! I am sure you will be able to get any questions you have, answered here. Good luck!

Hi Richard, Sounds like the car needs to go to someone with an interest in the original engineering of these old cars, and you could be just the guy! Maybe ask the family if they still have some of the paperwork or manuals for the Dodge. An "Owners Manual" will tell you just about everything you were asking about. The Dodge is a much more advanced car (engineering wise) than the Ford Model T's but with the knowledge you have from the "T's" you should have no trouble picking up on the advances made by the Dodge Brothers over the intervening years. Posting photos on this site is now easy since the upgrade a few months back. Take your shots with the camera set at an image resolution of between about 3MP and 5MP but not any more. (The photos, if larger, may get too big for the Forum Software to handle). Save the camera's shots to your computer, then, with the cursor at the desired location in the message you are typing, click on the icon from the bar at the top of the "Reply" window. This will bring you to a window that allows you to select the photo file from your computer. It will then attach it to the post at the location of the cursor. You can either put photos in along with your message or you can wait and just attach the all at the bottom of the finished message. Simple! The biggest place people get into trouble is if the photos are too large for the Forum Software to handle. Then you may have to use an imaging software like "IrfanView" or such to save them at a smaller size. A "rule of thumb" here would be to save them with a pixel size of no more than 2000 px in both the vertical and horizontal directions. That way you would be sure they would fit. We LOVE photos! Good luck with your projects - and Welcome Aboard!

Come on folks. Let's try to save this one from the hot rodders! A nice looking starting point for someone! Was an earlier restoration that looked fairly nicely done at the time! Dodge : Other 2 Door Coupe in Dodge | eBay Motors Rebuilt engine never run. Needs interior. One hour left. Reserve not met yet at $5900.00.

Go to the listing at the top of this thread and click on the "Dodge and Dodge Brothers" part of the "Forum" line. That will take you to the listing of all the "Dodge and Dodge Brothers" posts. Then at the top left you will see a button called "Post New Thread". Give it a title that describes your question (include year of your car) so that it can be searched quickly by others and then just type your statement or question in the main part. Easy! Also, we love photos! They are "worth a thousand words". So while you are constructing the new thread, consider using the icons across the top to help with photo posting. I like using the one that looks like a four cornered window with a tree in it. "Float your mouse on that icon and you will see it is called "Insert Image". This icon will let you pick a photo from the files in your computer and will insert it at the spot where your cursor is in the construct window. Cool! (Just keep the resolution of your camera down a bit - like 5MB shots or smaller to help make sure the shot will "fit" on the post.)

Yes. It does sound as if you have a part in there wrong or such. it seems to be pressurizing the master cylinder's supply chamber instead of the piston chamber. There are a couple rather small ports in the bottom of the supply chamber going to the pressure cylinder that line up with the edges of the piston and valves as the master is actuated. These also need to be open and free of rust or whatever solid blockage. A good manual may help show where these ports are and also the correct alignment of the piston and valve parts in the master's pressure cylinder. vettemanz51 - also you may want to start your own "New Thread" with this brake question so that people will see the title and be drawn to comment on your specific question. It is kind of buried here in this post.

The other thing to remember with cars that have the stepped cylinders is that the surface on the brake shoes themselves are different lengths for the different sizes of cylinder diameter. They were engineered that way - probably for a reason.

If you are lucky enough to have electricity where it is stored now, take a couple tungsten filament trouble lights along with you. Place them near stuff that may have dampness issues, like the distributor, coil, plug tops, battery, etc. The heat from the lamps will bring up the surface temps of those parts and drive the moisture away for a bit. Maybe long enough to get a sputter which could help you locate parts that are having dampness issues. If it is THAT cold where you have it stored, you may be having "normal" cold start issues. Those usually relate to maladjusted choke problems. (But hopefully not as cold as the 6 degs F we are expecting over here tonight!)

Sad. Just sad. And everyone keeps suggesting his parts. Too bad. He really needs to step up to the plate! "thirtyfourdodge", if I were you I surely wouldn't bore out the hole just to install an incorrect part. Future rebuilders of the A-frame will be confused or fit a correct part sloppily.

You mentioned about it being very damp. - Have you checked the points for corrosion? If they were on cam and left open for a length of time the dampness may have gotten to them. - Do you have a nice long blue spark at the plugs? Remove a plug wire, place the clip close to the end (1/4") of the spark plug and crank. Does the spark make the gap? - Is the engine block well grounded or did the dampness corrode a ground area? Quick test - clip a battery jumper cable from the block to a good clean frame ground or the battery itself. That will bypass any other grounds that may be having troubles. If it then works you can go back and check & clean all your normal engine grounding routes. - Bring along another condenser for the distributor on your next trip. Again, dampness could have caused a short in the condenser defeating the points. I am along with both you and Bill M concerning the electrical side and the dampness.

And THAT's the problem I find with Bernbaum's. They are in it to sell it. They don't seem to really know, don't really seem to care, and have been this way for a very long time. If it's "close enough" for you, it is "good enough" for them. If you just want to "make it work" they will find you a part. If you are trying to go for originality, good luck. None of their parts are referenced to original part numbers (that I have ever seen) which is probably a good idea on their part. "thirtyfourdodge"s issue is typical.

Oh, I forgot to mention... There are adjustment instructions in the Maintenance Manual for this Autochoke which involves a "special" holding tool, loosening the hex head adjusting bolt at the base of the lever arm on the Autochoke, measuring the opening of the choke plate in the carb and re-tightening of the hex bolt. All pretty simple actually. Here's the "special tool". I'm sure you can make one! (Now for sale on eBay for $27.00!)

Seeing no responses yet I will jump in here. I am posting a couple shots of a '36 that is using a Carter BBR-1 carb and the Sisson Autochoke. The choke type is correct but the carb you have should be a Stromberg EXV-2. The connections will be essentially the same. Only the length of the rod MAY be different. The wire goes from the side of the starter switch, around the back of the head and over to the screw connector on the Autochoke. This wire is enclosed in a woven asphalt impregnated sheath to protect it from the heat of the head. The choke is magnetically set while the engine is cranking during start. Then the electromagnet shuts off when power is removed from the starter and the bimetalic spring on the bottom of the Autochoke takes over, pulling off the partial choke condition as the exhaust manifold heats up. There is an asbestos (type) gasket under the Autochoke to prevent it from pulling off too quickly. This whole process only lasts a minute or so (depending on outside temp), and then the choke should be fully open.

Good stuff! Thanks for the link.

All original of course because of it's rarity. No question!

Hi Steve! I am starting to get an interest in Taxis myself and was wondering if you could post a photo (video grab) of the 36-37 DeSoto cab you were speaking of from the Warner Brothers movies? Any help would be appreciated.

( See: http://forums.aaca.org/f119/sale-1950-dodge-wayfarer-sportabout-convertible-343114.html ) Sweet car!

Too many duplicates going on here. Info will be missed. ( See: http://forums.aaca.org/f143/carb-38-dodge-d8-343052.html )

Here is your carb.The "Stromberg EXV-2".

( See also: http://forums.aaca.org/f143/carb-38-doege-d8-343051.html )

(See also: http://forums.aaca.org/f143/carb-38-dodge-d8-343052.html )

Hi Fernando., That is correct. The car in the photo (not my car) has the leather boots for the universal joint. The leather style is correct for the 1936 Dodge. The rubber accordion boot style you had the link for is a later design of boot for the Dodge u-joint. '36's were still using the leather as shown in the photo in post #8.

Concerning the Master Cylinder, there is also something I had read in the past concerning the small ports between the reservoir and the piston cylinder. Those ports need to be checked for flow and size. If rust formed in the bottom of the reservoir the ports may be blocked, partially blocked or at least mis-sized. I also recall reading something about the flow valve on the end of the MC piston easily being installed backward causing either a drop in brake pressure or a load-up of pressure not getting released by the return spring. I can't be more specific right now but those may be some things to look at while you are in there again. My personal opinion, why change to 12 volt? The car's systems were well designed "back in the day" and worked well. The biggest things to remember with 6 volt is that wire size needs to be correct (larger) and clean ground paths are imperative. ALL connections need to be clean. This is just good practice for any system. On the timing issue, sounds a bit similar to the issues I was having this summer. I was thinking some of my problems on my '36 were because of a poorly working vacuum advance chamber and, like Jack said, a dirty or incorrectly setup carburetor. Just a couple thoughts.

Centauri with a hardener. This is a semi-truck frame paint style from the mid 1980's. Excellent wear-ability. Hard against stone chips. But way to shiny to be "correct".

From "1930": "Not too be in the least bit confrontational and please dont think I am trying to be in any way shape or form confrontational ... badgering and name calling are not and I like to play within the guidelines.... Hmmmm... Sorry havent read your entire post yet ... You apologized to him a few days later after he called you out ( and you stopped sulking about being called out in my humble opinion ) As I said, I was away from the Forum for a while. New job training. Had to go back to work out of retirement to pay for hugely increased Health Insurance costs. on your mis-guided synopsis of his situation There were other contacts made between "bbbbbb9" and myself via email you are not aware of along with the public apology for my misunderstanding of "bbbbbb9's" situation that I made on the thread minutes before it was removed. I am guessing many readers did not see that entry because of the timing with the removal of the thread. If you were a contributor, you probably saw it though in your email notifications. (Read it there). but seriously do you honestly think that its OK now or then to point the fingers at others for ruining your thread as you did ( just for instance ) to me VIA personal e-mail and here on this forum? YES. My reading of the posts causing the issue from the prior couple of days (once I was able to get back to the Forum) showed they were off topic​, the very thing I had warned about back in post #36 as I recall. I believe your words were ......Let me see........."this is your fault, You were again fully off topic..."......... True. And I now again publicly stand by those quoted words. This is a joke, Hardly admit you were wrong, I have - concerning my earlier part with "bbbbbb9" both personally AND publicly. acknowledge that there were others that got off course, True. I have already done that. myself and at least one other person although it slips my memory who that was and get on with life. Trying. That is why I started this new thread in an effort to possibly get the Moderators to understand the importance of the earlier thread and to possibly (if the computer allows them to do so) reopen the original thread with, removal of the off topic entries (mine included if they feel that way), and get the discussion back on track. Not looking for a response here because I will not debate this subject with you here or anywhere else but please consider what I have said. Its easy to blame everyone else around you but your entire thread was removed because you wouldnt even adhere to your own guidelines that you set up within the very first post. Do you have some first hand knowledge of this statement? Because I sure don't. Again, no Moderator has yet contacted me as to why the thread was removed. Even if I made a mistake of getting the post off topic (which I did not - we were discussing the topic), that does not then negate the issue of off avoiding inappropriate topic posts by other contributors such as what happened. You need to take some responsibility for your own actions. Have a nice day and Merry Christmas" (Sarcasm maybe? As typical - Who knows! I sure don't.) I was "called out" on this post and now I have had my chance to address the issues brought up. As you stated earlier Jason, I will not debate this subject with you any further. So everyone fully understands, I am not happy with how these issues panned out on my earlier thread. It was disrupted and I currently only hope it can be repaired. Let's see where my earlier post goes from here.

But Brian and Jim, did you both miss where the thread was headed? The info was working it's way toward a possible solution of the "problem". If there is NOT a way to have a discourse about a sensitive subject, that subject will go on forever like you mentioned Brian. Those other Forums are just trying to sweep an inevitable subject under the rug and not give it a place to air. That is just ASKING for trouble, in my opinion, on a continuous never ending basis. Yes, those other forms of vehicle appreciation have their place. But I also think the AACA is about saving/preserving historic vehicles. It is part of the "function". So this subject needs to have a place where the "function" can be discussed. I WOULD hope that others contributing to that discussion have some level of tolerance to be able to see that there are other vehicle interests out there in the world and stay on track. But the world should not be a place where it is a race to see who can get to the "good stuff" first. There should be a point where historically preserved vehicles can claim that position forever and be protected from other forms of vehicle appreciation where they are forever changed. I would hope the point of this discussion is not for the purpose of changing minds (which is impossible as you say) but more of a way to drill down to a respected solution from both sides of the issue. I do not think we were too far off from that possible path until those without self control got a bit out of hand. I also would never be trying to prevent others from being able to follow their dreams. BUT there MUST be a point where we can all do this together and not "cross the line". Vehicles already on the path to preservation or restoration should be allowed to stay on that path. There are plenty of other levels of vehicles out there that can be utilized for those purposes and not the ones already shown to be on the path to preservation or restoration. What we members on the AACA Forum should be trying to do is encourage both of those forms to have their place. And to do that it seems there MUST be a way to protect the vehicles already on that path and legally be able to direct those hobbyists less caring or informed to look for vehicles not already selected for the preservation path. It is a matter of education not "us vs you". So my thread was designed to be a place to have the inevitable discussion and try to keep it out of the main stream of threads meant for other car stuff. If this subject is at all distasteful to someone, by having it all in one location, it is then helpful to others interested by giving it a "place to be" so those people can hash it out, and those disinterested can avoid it and not worry about it. I was intentionally hoping to give it that place and keep it out of the regular course of threads. But to keep the sensitive discussion viable and on track we needed to make sure those joining in would be adult and keep it ONLY "on topic". I had various spots along the thread where I mentioned that, and was trying to monitor the discussion to stay on MY TOPIC. I was away for a couple days, come back and those that couldn't contain themselves got off topic. Before I was aware of it, the whole post was punitively removed (apparently) because there was no explanation given to me as to why it was totally removed. I am still holding out hope that cooler heads will prevail and the Moderators will be able to recover the "on topic" parts so that all the work toward a solution for saving those vehicles already restored or fully original survivors put into the subject by others will not be "trashed". This is NOT then just the same old never ending discussion on the old diatribe of "rod vs resto". It IS intended to be a place to HAVE the discussion. Is my point more clear now? I do hope so. Moderators - Does this help make the intention more obvious?