1936 D2

They are very judicious on granting "Stickys". Doubt that could happen.

I was trying to keep an eye on my prior thread concerning the very popular discussion on Rodding vs Restoration and the attempts at finding a way to protect cars that already were restored or were fully original survivors, but I was away for a few days and I see it got out of hand on the part of very limited number of participants. I was extremely upset that the whole thread was removed. There was an excellent discussion proceeding on the subject and actually was bringing the "opposite sides" to some point of understanding. Usually when things get off topic like that only the off topic posts are removed - and rightfully so. I would have asked for that stuff to be removed if I had the time before other punitive action was taken. That thread gave a place for those discussions and was an effort to allow the airing of the thought process with hopes of giving it a separate location and to help keep it off other threads. I am not sure what the reasoning was on the part of the Moderator who remove the whole thread, but my opinion was it did the hobby a disservice by not allowing a specific location for those inevitable discussions. I was also not contacted (even as of today) by any Moderator explaining why the full thread was removed. That seems very odd. So I have also set this thread up to be a poll so your opinions can be quickly observed by Moderators and others concerning the removal of the whole thread. I am not sure if the Moderators are able to request that Pete Gariepy try to recover the thread from the "trash bin", look through it, then only remove the off topic posts like has been done with other threads in the past. There was a lot of work put into this popular thread by many responders and maybe there is a way to preserve those efforts. Let's see.

Finished at $23,000.00

Here is a site I ran across talking about how to freshen up the wiper motors. The motors shown are not exactly like yours but the principals are the same. Vacuum Wiper Repair Page 2 (There are more pages to the article. Look right at the bottom under the photos for the next page's hot link.) You also may want to replace the metal or rubber vacuum line(s) that supply the vacuum from the intake manifold up to the wiper motors. I'm not sure if the '38 was using some of the first "Dual Diaphragm Fuel Pumps" to augment the wiper motor vacuum or just using engine vacuum like on my '36. That is something you will have to find in your service manual, parts manual, etc. (Or wait for a '38 owner to reply).

OHhhh. That's the ticket! (Still like the tailgate!)

But if your tailgate is down, won't that cover the tail lights? That is why I was more thinking about period tail lights on stalks either out from the side of the box or up from the fenders. Cool tailgate though. Can be read from both sides!

A helper and a small round punch or shank of a drill bit will work also. (Cool tool though.)

You are correct! I don't really know why yet, but they used the rear end trunk area from the '35's on the back of the '36 Two Door Sedans. You can see the more squared off trunk, different placement of the gas filler and the tail light which is like the set-up on the '35 also. So, this may be a '35 or a '36 2Dr Sedan. Good eye!

RW: Show us some photos once you get it removed. Or maybe some shots of the set-up you use to get it off.

I think this is where you were trying to be: MODERN FLASHER CIRCUITS

OOHhh! - It's starting to lose its period look!

Hello all! This is just a quick post to let you know of an interesting discussion going on in the "Dodge and Dodge Brothers" section. The question again came up about "Restoration/Preservation" vs "Rodding" in a couple of our threads. So to prevent the issue from intruding on the original subject of those threads, we made a separate one to try and air out the issue. This is probably an issue that is across the hobby. Us "Dodgers" have jumped in on the discussion and have accumulated a rather interesting discussion on the subject of "Rodding" vs. "Restoration/Preservation". Maybe you would like to stop by and check it out! This is NOT just a Dodge issue. I'm sure you all have stories and opinions to add! Here is a hot link for your convenience. http://forums.aaca.org/f143/opinions-please-what-your-position-changes-340739.html Also I ask you take a moment to review posts #1 - #13 - #36 & #99 right away for some background on the subject and a few "ground rules" to keep it on track. Glad to meet you there! Have fun!

Don't think it is a '36 Dodge on the far left. It doesn't have a rear quarter window. Rear fender has too sharp of a side bend. Plate would be below, not above tail light.

Here is what an NOS replaceable element one looks like for the '38. (But I would NEVER pay that price, THAT's for sure!) 1930s 1940s 1950s Mopar Plymouth Dodge Chrysler DeSoto Oil Filter | eBay I found this quote on Summit Racing's web page... "Wix Filters: Wix has been making filters for cars, trucks, ATVs, motorcycles, tractors, and more since 1939."

Excellent! Thanks.

HA! (Excellent looking car - and shop - BTW! Have fun!)

Can you put up some photos of each?

I suspect yours are C. Mine was about the same but in F. Highs around 27 last Monday. Will make it to an odd 59 a week later (next Monday). Then on the following Wednesday we are forecast for a high at about 34.

Here's another idea I ran across for you: Plymouth Dodge Chrysler Flathead 1930, 1940, 1950s Borg Warner T5 Overdrive Kit | eBay

Some shots of the wheels would be cool too!1)- Take some digital photos with your camera set at the 3MP to 5MP resolution range. 2)- Transfer them to your computer where you can remember where they are. (The "My Pictures" folder is usual). 3)- Set up a "Reply to Thread" or a "Post New Thread". Type in your comment. Then, at the end, type a couple "Enter" keystrokes to get the cursor at the bottom of the post. 4)- Click on the "Insert Image" icon shown at the top of the box where you are constructing the reply or new thread. 5)- Click on the "From Computer" tab at the top of this box and go find, in the "My Pictures" folder, the particular shots you want to post. Select them all and click on "Upload Files". 6)- The photos will upload to the spot where you left the cursor and you will see the photos there. 7)- "Post" the reply or new thread to the Forum. That's it! Easy as pie!

"countrytravler": What year is the short block your friend has? Is it fully stock?

Now that you have a cable you can hook it up to the speedometer and spin the other end with your fingers first to see that the speedometer is free and not making any odd sounds. Then you could hook the loose end of the cable to an electric drill (reversible) and see how it works at speed - see if it is stable. If so, then it is probably fine. If not there are companies that can rebuild the meter itself and check its accuracy. Just Google "speedometer repair" and see what pops up. That's a start.

Try this for reference: http://www.steelerubber.com/uploads/image/ecats/Chrysler.pdf Check out pages 56 and 57.

Try this idea... https://www.google.com/search?q=1938+Dodge+speedometer+cable&rlz=1C1RNCN_enUS326US367&oq=1938+Dodge+speedometer+cable&sugexp=chrome,mod=7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 Or maybe this spot - fourth row down... Used Parts Dodge : New And Nos Dodge Parts - Borth Used Autoparts

If you look closely at the package in the photo you can see the part number is 488547. They are vulcanized over a metal core piece and have a narrow angle of 70 deg I believe. Here is a copy of the Steele Catalog that has a bit more explanation of the part. You would want the bottom one of the two: That is sort of the "problem" I have with Metro Moulded Parts. They specify parts that are "close" to the year of the vehicle's parts you need but may actually be for a different year or model and then the part is ill fitting for your application. This item is one of the prime examples. It also does not look like it has the required metal core so the bumper can be fastened tightly to the hood. It seems from their photo that the part is an 80 deg angle, has no metal insert and may be made as a "pop over" covering (which can tend to come off and get lost). I know Steele is more expensive but for good reason - as shown here in these catalog page comparisons. You may come across the parts elsewhere, and at a better price than Steele, but I am guessing that they may be NOS (like in my first photo) and would be even more costly - and possibly of marginal quality because of age.