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Does anybody know what this fits, year, make, and model? Here is a second picture. There is a number, L 4850, stamped in the aluminum case. The Harley dealer told me it didn't mean anything.

The air/fuel system on your car is what is called a duel system. In theory, you turn the toggle on the hand pump to pressure and pump up pressure in the tank. The pressure should read on the dash gauge. If the toggle is in the grav position, any air you pump will go out the relief valve. With the toggle in the grave prosition, the gas tank will suck air through the relief valve. The relief valve is nothing more than a hole with a small bearing in it. When pressure is applied to the back side, the bearing seals in the hole but if there is no pressure, the bearing backs off allowing air into the system. The bearing is very small and can easily fall out without notice if one is not careful and knows not what they are doing, thus, the part is put back together without it, and there is no way to pressurize the system. The gauge is a simple volume detector and should work if there is pressure to read. My 1911 also has a 5/16ths gas line but I think 5/16ths is typical for the era. Obviously, if the car were being raced, you would need a greater volume of fuel delivered to the carb so you have a duel system. One for leisure driving and another for racing. I suspect the car is special built for racing. In those years, 11-14, several car companies built special cars for people what wanted to drive their cars and also race them. The Mercer is an example.

The ground looks completely dry around the truck. How does this qualify as a "wet area." If the endangered plant likes to grow in a wet area, there are none between the truck and pavement.

A couple of things to notice: the diagram shows a touring car set up. This is not a gravity feed but a full pressure system. The book from Marmon shows the predominate system. The car you have is a unique one year only offering that used much of the same parts. It relies on a hand pump to pump up pressure in the tank and a built in air pump on the motor with a pressure gauge on the dash but your car is also gravity feed. One or several of these parts failed, or the owner didn't understand it, and rather than repair it, an electric fuel pump was added. I would suggest a testing of the components. You could loosen the line from the pump on the motor, and while the car is running, check to see if it is pumping any air. If the lever on the hand pump is in the Grave position, any air will escape. Check to see if your hand pump is pumping air. If you check each piece and familiarize yourself with what they do, you can isolate the problem and decide what if anything to do about it.

Here is an example of a period correct dash mounted fuel pressure gauge. It turned on its side when loaded. As you can see, the gauge reads between 0 and 6lbs of pressure. This is a US Gauge from 1910-1911. It mounts into the dash and is plumbed from the hand pump. I've seen some that only read up to 5lbs but clearly 5lbs is not too much. The fuel float is attached mechanically to the carb body. I think it would take a lot of pressure to overcome the float attachment. However, not all early carbs are designed for this system.

Bill, If the Marmon is typical of the era (I have not seen it) the gas tank and pump should make up a closed system. When the pump is used to charge the system with air, the tank should hold that pressure over a period of time. As the pressure is released through pressing the gas out of the tank to the carb, as noted on the fuel pressure gauge on the dash, a couple of pumps of the hand pump should recharge the system. The system on your car must have encountered a problem at some point and the fuel pump was added. The fuel filter is not your friend. The relationship between the gas tank and carb allows for very little head pressure with the long horizontal gas line, especially when the tank is low on fuel. Everything has to be working properly for it to work at all. However, most all the early race cars used the exact same system and the gas tank would have been mounted higher if there was a problem. They did not have electric fuel pumps to add.

Can we get a final report on this problem? Did the new fuel pump solve it? Did you take the fuel filter off? Have you got it running good?

You might also point out there is likely still oil in the motor, trans, and rear, that will eventually leak out. It is better to have it removed. It is funny though, the EPA had no problems with the railroad burning the cars in Palestine but they are worried about you pulling the truck through 50' of wetland? Whats wrong with this picture.

I started to address the venting in my previous post but didn't want to confuse the issue. In a closed system where there is a pump, there will not be a vent in the gas tank cap. You simply pump up the pressure, I had a friend who ran his car all day on one charge of air to about 4lbs, then watch the gauge and pump more air as the gauge indicates more pressure is needed. There should be a ball check valve on the bottom of the pump that allows air intake to the pump. If there is a vent, you will not be able to charge the tank with pressure. Still, I believe your problem is the fuel filter. If the car was running fine before and suddenly started choking, it is the filter. The filter will likely look fine, like a new one, but be clogged enough even the electric pump cannot force gas through it.

The fuel filter is your problem. It takes very little to clog it up. Take off the fuel filter and just run the sediment bowl. I had a fuel filter on my 1911 and it starved the carb.

Just so we have some clarity, the OP's car is a 1913. This would be before vacuum tanks came into widespread use. The gravity feed is from the tank to the carburetor and usually is no more than 5 or 6 inches. His car was provided with a pump but it is no more than a bicycle tire pump. One would use the pump to pump air into the fuel system, creating pressure where very little would occur naturally. I'm not aware of any 1913 cars that had mechanical fuel pumps and most gravity fuel systems use more than 6" of rise to the fuel tank. As an example, here is a picture of a similar year car with similarly placed gas tank. Notice the tank sets right down on the frame; the carburetor is just even with the bottom of the frame. This means there is very little head pressure created by the weight of the gas in the tank. Moreover, the gas is traveling through a horizontal line to the carb as opposed to a straight vertical line. The horizontal line creates more resistance for the gas to travel from the tank to the carb and if not installed correctly, could create an air lock in the system. I hope this helps.

It's hard to tell from the pictures and it is certainly more rough than a lot of people would tackle but it looks to be mostly complete. I'd like to see it cleaned up, put back together, and used or shown as is as an example of these service vehicles. I went through the running gear of my T model and fixed what needed and left the rest alone and have enjoyed it immensely. The same might could be done with this truck. Restoration is way overrated in my humble opinion. You should see the people crowded around my rusty T at shows while all the first place winners struggle to get one or two lookers. Its just my opinion and we all have different ones. I'm not saying mine is right; I'm just saying there is another way to look at it.

The dash mounted fuel pressure gauge for early cars register 0-4 or 0-5 lbs of pressure. The gas tank is usually pumped up with air from the pump. If your motor is starving for gas, I would recommend replacing the line and valve from the tank, or, blow it out. All sorts of restrictions can form in that line. You may need to keep more gas in the tank. My T model runs out if there is less than a gallon in the tank. Take the gas line off at the carb and see how much gas runs through the open line. You may need to clean the air inlet hole, usually found in the gas tank lid, but in your case, there would be a check ball valve built into the air pump for the gas tank. If it is not working properly, it will restrict the air from entering the top of the tank and the gas from leaving the bottom.

When I decided to go the brass car route, everybody told me regardless of what car you decide to buy, also get a model t. It took a little time but I found one that set under a barn shed for many years. It had been turned into a wood saw but one nice thing is, T parts are plentiful and it didn't take long to find the parts to put it back on the road. I think too often people make the mistake of restoring. I left my car in its natural rust and have enjoyed it immensely. You should see it go over a ditch!!! It goes places Gators can only dream and on a good day will run 45 mph. So not only does it go four wheeling, it will take you back home. My grandfather started out driving a model T. Later, he bought a model A but couldn't figure out how to drive it and just quit driving.

If this truck could talk: I wonder how it got in there. Kids, playing, drove it in and got stuck, and not supposed to be driving it, escaped; owner deciding the truck was not worth going after? Or, was there some sort of distribution center next door and the truck was pushed to the side and trees grew up around it? One side of the body looks to have been cut out which means it might have been repurposed for special use and when that use ended, discarded? If only the truck could talk. Dave, are you going to attempt to get it?

The body reminds me of a Stearns. The area above the belt line molding would be painted white.

Looks like a chain on a roll back backed up to the corner of that parking lot just about where the truck sets would do it. The roll back bed would extend out over the curbing and protect the new asphalt. Who knows, the tires may hold air. It looks like there is a lane wide enough to pull the truck through the trees. Just hook the chain to the front end and pull it around, then pull it up on the trailer. Should be a 30 minute job. The truck looks good enough to save to me. Gonna need a lotta work but mostly all there. Video a first start and the hits will pay for the "restoration."

I have a friend here with a water jet cutter who could cut that out from the picture. He loads the picture into His computer, adds the length and height and sends that info to the cutter and out comes the script. I use 36" door kick plates to have them cut out of. The originals had threaded rods soldered to the backs that could go through the radiator core and be nutted on the back but I have seen some with holes drilled and wire holding them to the radiator.

Maybe he didn't trust his wife with the headlights. Looks like she's driving. I wonder why such a large expensive car like Locomobile had such flimsy rear fenders? The horn appears to be one of those that have the round bulb on the end with holes in it. It, plus the sidelights suggests they were a personal choice by the owner instead of factory items. Like so many pictures of this period, the rear tire is missing some air. I know people were encouraged to do this for added traction but I was warned it would cause a flat tire and I learned that on my first outing. I wonder if there was something they added to the tire bead to limit slippage. That's what happens to tires with less than the prescribed amount of air, they slip on the rim and break off the tube stem. These tires have rim locks and I'm guessing because I have no experience with rim locks, the locks would keep the tires from slipping on the rim. Am I right? The man reminds me of my grandfather. He is wearing his pants up high. It is an interesting contrast between this older fellows dress and the younger guy on the right, who is wearing his pants lower on his hips, has his collar turned down and a wider tie, and is sporting white shoes! The younger guy has his arms folded while the older guy has his arms by his side. It is a great illustration of how the generation changed.

$225 is not enough money to solve either problem. Take your wife out to dinner.

I think it is a whip socket. They were mounted in or on early cars when there were dogs that liked to chase cars present. The dogs could get caught under the wheel and be hurt or killed. The whip would keep them away from the wheels. This was not a problem in every town or village so whip sockets were never standard equipment.

I mentioned earlier the online chat group Brass Buicks. One of our members was looking for some valve train parts for a 15/16 recently. You might think about joining.

Definitely not worthless and well worth saving.

That book learning will open a lot of doors for you but it will not replace common sense. The problem with common sense is it is not very common.

I need to create accelerator pedal linkage for a 1932 Graham Bluestreak sedan with 8 cylinder motor. The pedal sits behind the motor so to go to the carburetor the rod will have to bend left and then back right. There is no provision for linkage on my car; looks like just a single rod bent to conform to limitations. can anybody confirm?