AHa

The doomsdayers are predicting one helluva downturn in the economy and their voices are getting louder. The whole world seems to be teetering on the edge of a cliff and who's to say when the event will occur that will push it over. It seems everybody is aware on one level or the other and are anticipating, hedging their bets. This is affecting the enthusiasm and outlay of cash. Just a few short years ago, cars were a better investment than stocks, and some still are, but its getting harder to judge what is holding value or going up.

To answer the OP's original question, Old Cars Weekly lists 10 Duesenbergs that are lost. Some are presumed to have met their demise because the circumstances of their demise are supposedly well known but others simply disappeared, according to the article I read. The truth is an elusive thing. Are there any unknown Duesenbergs out there? It wouldn't surprise me if there were. Like one old guy said, "The stories of my demise are greatly exaggerated."

I always worked with wood and said 'A good carpenter is one who makes his mistakes look like they were intended.'

I want to reply to my earlier post. My local bolt/nut supplier is a small company with nine locations in the southeast. They have warehouses full of bolts and nuts of all descriptions at each location and deal primarily in bolts and nuts and washers with a few other automotive fasteners. They have a counter out front where customers can walk in and buy one, two, three, or any number of anything they sale; there is no minimum. It is a real blessing to have this company 6 miles from my house. Last year I walked in to ask for a course thread castle nut and was informed castle nuts only come in fine thread; slotted nuts come course thread. I tried a couple of other venues and found the same thing to be true. Obviously, some of you guys have different experiences. I know the SAE supposedly standardized threads on nuts but in my experience, with antique cars, you can find nearly every thread imaginable. In fact, some bolts and nuts on my 1989 Dodge Dakota are Metric. My experience has been there is no such thing as standard but this company claims slotted nuts come in course thread, so, there you go.

I guess most guys know modern slotted nuts are course thread and the castellated nuts are fine thread, at least at my local bolt and nut supply.

Jack, Thanks for your sage advice. I don't know the application of the OE 1 but as I understand it, the aluminum bodied carbs were made by order for race cars. I will try your solution.

I don't know if it matters but this is not a pot metal carb; it is cast aluminum. As I understand it, aluminum carbs were available from all the major suppliers for race cars. This is a Stromburg.

I had high hopes for this carburetor but the throttle valve is stuck. So far I have boiled it in water (15 min.), frozen it, heated it with a torch, set it behind the windshield to be heated up, lightly tapped on it, and boiled it in kerosene off and on for two days. I also rigged up a makeshift sonic cleaner and vibrated it and used every type of penetrant known to man, all to no avail. Anybody got any tricks up their sleeve? I have not bead blasted it, which I have found sometimes frees rusted parts. All help appreciated.

Don't call me an expert but I believe that is a full floating axle. With full floating axles the axle is released inside the hog's head and pulled out through the housing. If you're trying to take the wheel off, you have to take the axle loose inside the hog's head. I can't tell you how to do that; each manufacturer had different ways of locking the axle in.

Looks like an Ford A model horn to me.

This picture of the American Underslung race car, of which several have been previously posted, comes from "The fall of the Atlanta speedway." Just click on the picture for more information.

Serial number matches to 1923. Transmission turns over and appears complete, including clutch. Some rust damage. Look carefully, sold as is with no guarantees. I have not had it apart. More pictures available upon request. Asking $3500. Shifter is frozen stuck.

There is a guy on here that bought a Haynes a couple of years ago and was looking for Haynes help. I can't remember his name at the moment but just to let you know.

Al, what you need is a set of bead dies the right size and an edge roller. You could bend the edge of the metal into a 90 flat and then hammer it over to make the hemmed edge, then bend the fender over a mandrel. Any thing rigid of the right diameter would make a mandrel. It would be nice to have a fender to go by. These fenders were made from a certain kind of steel that bends like butter. You can't use regular cold or hot rolled. I don't remember the name of the steel at the moment but it is very easy to work.

Al, I would think the rear fenders would be easy to build with a Harbor Freight bead roller. They are not expensive, and the fender is simple construction.

Congratulations, Al, you are now one step closer to having a complete car to restore. You've got to be pretty close. What else are you missing?

It sounds like the restoration of a Model A Ford comes down to what day of the week it was produced in what plant in what year.

Sometimes good will is generated a long the way and reciprocated in like kind. Of course, the opposite is also true. This is not a reflection on George, who, I'm sure, is a super nice guy. After all, Locomobiles were one of the most expensive makes when new. It only stands to reason any small part would be worth its value in gold. It is a sad state of affairs that so many people undertake a full restoration without realizing the time and cost involved and end up with a pile of parts, of which, only a few are actually saleable. Sometimes a full restoration can be accomplished in two years but 12 to 14 is more normal and some, if finished, are closer to 25. As we age, we run the risk of not being able to finish our projects for myriads of reasons. Many men have set out to play a round of golf only to never finish and a round of golf takes 2 hours or less. "Best made plans of mice and men."

That sure is a pretty radiator.

My experience has been that wear on brake and clutch pedals has as much to do with the personal habit of the driver as anything else. One driver may use the whole foot to press in the pedal while another my use just the corner. Wear is thus indicated. The question is how well was the car maintained? Was the oil kept clean? Changed often? Was the car greased regularly?

Has anyone made castings of the accelerator pedal found on some early Mercer raceabouts? I am talking about the spoon that hangs outside the body. I would be interested in purchasing one. Thanks haywood96@hotmail.com

Two 33x4 tires wanted. Allen Haywood haywood96@hotmail.com

Looks like part of the accelerator linkage on my car. The round end fits into the back of the accelerator pedal.

How do I use the number to identify the year?