Gunsmoke

I've spent some time studying the attachment methods and workings of seats on these Chrysler Roadsters circa 1930 (mine is a '31 CD8). Many I find have a fixed bench seat and a split back. The passenger side back has a "double hinge" as shown in an earlier photo. I assume that serves 2 purposes 1. It holds the seat back from moving forward when braking. 2. It allows for seat back to be raised in an emergency (by lifting it from bottom edge) to access the rumble seat area: for example if R/S lock broke, you could access the latch from inside. The driver side back has the handle on top which operates a scissor type mechanism (like on a scissor jack) fastened to the framing behind the seat driver side back to adjust 2-3 inches back and forth based on driver preference. Note the back cushions ride on top of the seat base. I don't know how many years/models shared this split seat system.

Once out of your sight, they may have unloaded it and drove it at least partway!

Thanks CG, great set of photos. Only time many of us will ever see a Westcott Chassis. Pretty easy to straighten this one with a couple of strongbacks and some "come-alongs" in the right spots.

I've sent you an email.

I'm even more envious than you might know. A stunning car one can cruise leisurely with, a happy wife (and ergo happy life), the best design lines ever produced in North America, and not afraid to drive it for ice cream and coffee. I'm still amazed modern companies are not producing a small number of high quality runs of classics like this, and perhaps new regulations will lead to some doing just that. My Dad was a mechanic, and during WWII while serving in the Canadian Navy out of Halifax, he recalled to me in the late 1980's about walking up Spring Garden Road (the posh shopping district) one day in 1941 when he came across a 1936 Auburn 2 seater convertible (his terms), and was just stunned. He said he stood in awe for a few minutes looking the car over from all angles, before continuing on his way. My Dad (who at the time owned a '36 Auburn Sedan which he said was his favorite car he ever owned)) was never one who was easily impressed, but that car knocked his socks off. Yours does the same for me. Good taste never gets old.

Geez guys, it's only about the best/nicest/most awesome/stunning/desirable car in the world, or at least American made! Guess you are going to have to change your name to ALPHAMALE!!

My much earlier guess (June 22) was 1933 S/C Auburn Speedster, I meant to say 1936 S/C Auburn Speedster, perhaps one sorta like this one! As for the bolt head most MOPAR guys say DPCD!

At a car show back in 2015, as event was winding down I asked my friends to line up this foursome of manufacturers offerings for 1931. My '31 Chevrolet Deluxe Coach (under restoration)(627K Chevs built that year), David's '31 Studebaker (49K built), Dave's (since deceased) '31 Dodge DH (56K built, 162K for Dodge/Plymouth)), and Larry's '31 Ford Model A Tudor (542K built). Interesting that body lines are so uniform, a comment we often hear today about all the lozenges currently being offered. For 1931, other top models production wise were Buick 88K, Pontiac/Oakland 86K, Hudson/Essex 58K, Willys/Overland 74K, and Chrysler 53K. Other models were Oldsmobile, Nash, Auburn, DeSoto, Hupmobile, Cadillac/LaSalle, Packard and Durant in top 18. The following year, in midst of depression, production dropped by about half for most models.

With Chrysler's in that era coming in 10 or so different colors, my guess is that all hubcap "background/highlight" colors would be black, since it would complement any color scheme. Red would clash with several.

Please read "Stop and Read" at start of this forum. Thank you.

Right color, bullet taillight, would be nice, 1934 Cadillac 355 C/Coupe.

Keep on going, I'm diggin' it! Can't wait until you have that chassis upright, and we can have a full view of it. Appears one engine side pan is still in place. If it were possible to age the tree(can you count rings on one of the cut pieces) one might be able to narrow down just when carcass was placed there. Note what appears to be the 2 rear engine mounting brackets are offset, likely due to frame distortion.

The reflections (including you) in the taillight bucket suggest a speedster or similar body with rear fenders rising above rear deck, V'd bumper common to several including Auburn, looks like center gas cap (or camera lens cover?) so what better for an Auburnseeker than a (maybe supercharged) 1933 Auburn boattail Speedster.

$3500 and yes.

So I guess 1912 Staver and JV Puleo if you guys bought a car that you liked and considered fair value and some informed soul said "you havn't got a clue and it's a piece of junk" on here you'd be tickled pink. I have respect for the buyer, regardless of any underlying considerations. We all should.

edinmass, your comment "Sure bet the new owner of the roadster has NO CLUE…….. why aren’t there people like that around when I’m selling junk?" is just so judgmental and gratuitous. While we all have the right to think to ourselves whether we might buy something for a price, questioning someone else's decision so boldly and publicly in such a negative manner does not serve the needs of the hobby, AACA, or members/followers on here. You remember what your Mom said, "if you can't say something nice about something/someone, don't say anything".

I see a nomination coming up for an award in some category, most unique topic, greatest effort to preserve (or persevere), hopeless romantic, treasure hunter of the year(or decade), salvage hero, history buff, time is no object........ I realize at some point this "dig" will end, but it's been a fun ride for us passengers.

By George, that one takes the cake. The flower power top is a great finishing touch on a colossal waste of time, money and print space (not to mention at least 4 or 5 likely decent original cars). I suppose it is still being toured as a testament to the abject foolishness (and lack of taste) of some too affluent businesses in the '70's. Would have turned me away from ever dealing with Hanover Trust.

thanks r!lark, guess I better get off my butt and do some more work.

Interesting post war portfolio, I'm a pre-war fan, but none the less, I'll take 3 of 'em, the Austin Healy, the '55 t-bird and the Triumph TR6. And maybe the yellow Ford Speedster.

I would never question the good intentions of the AACA folk in selecting cars for display. Sometimes it might even be nice to see a strange one, we can see lots of gorgeous ones. As for the Spohn, for many who stop by for a look, like me they will struggle to imagine just how it came to be and what folks were smoking back in '57. There is virtually nothing about it that makes design sense, be it the strange fins, that awful front bumper, that center nose on rear, the hi-low headlights and the 3 chrome pimples on each side. It's like someone toured a junkyard and grabbed the worst stuff from 1/2 dozen disparate cars and welded them together. But the wheels are nice! Will be interesting to hear what AACA visitors have to say.

Personally, I think a little peek now and then is just fine the way you have been doing it. Builds up the suspense, I'm guessing you may be near end of finding stuff as I suspect engine was removed before car was interred! Finding a rad shell or any bright work might be a thrill.

It would help greatly if you told us the make/model of the 1928 era vehicle you are working on. Each model had specific instructions on assembling and adjusting these drag link fittings. I believe my 1931 Chevrolet (I no longer have it) had different instructions for the forward assembly connected to steering arm than the rearward /pitman arm end. My 1931 Chrysler CD8 has only a single spring in each draglink end, and spring goes in first fully into drag link before ball containers etc. The spring as mentioned is intended to reduce road shock and excessive wear. For adjustment, it says to tighten until solid and then back off 1&1/2 turns and insert cotter pin in slot. They also note slotted screw should be flush with end of drag link, or perhaps slightly indented, but never proud of drag link end.

Still enjoying your daily updates. You may need to make a wire armature (like they do for dinosaurs, crashed planes) and add the various pieces where you think they go. Once frame is upright and straightened, it would be fun to see all the pieces placed more or less where they were 75 years ago. (ps, was typing this when TOM H.S. posted his similar note), great minds think alike!

So all you need now is current owner's name. Lovely and rare car if your into teen era tourers.