Gunsmoke

I said above "The set of NOS tubes I have here (and plan to use on my 1931 Chrysler wheels with lock rings)" meant that I have a set of old tubes (perhaps 30-40 years old) that were given to me 10-15 yrs ago still in their original bags, never used. I considered them new old stock, but perhaps just old stock never used would be better description. They have the centerline valve stem ideal for my lock-rim style wire wheels.

Guess y'all are like me, waiting for someone to offer an opinion. I've talked to several pretty knowledgeable old car people and a couple of specialty shops and no one has any helpful advice except "leave them alone", or "be careful using them". Heat will affect the temper and make them easy to bend, which is not good. Clamping is likely to snap them before roundness is achieved, and you need specialized equipment and a good tradesman. These Chrysler 18" rings are impossible to find, etc etc. So plan for now will be to clean them up, and get them powder coated, and keep an eye out for 2 good rings someday. But do let me know if you have a suggestion, or have 1 or 2 or 3 good rings.

The set of NOS tubes I have here (and plan to use on my 1931 Chrysler wheels with lock rings), have this message stamped on them "Do Not Use with Radial Tires". My assumption is that radials flex so much that the valve stem would be under constant strain from all directions and eventually fail. I assume you have radials there? Or are they bias ply? As to why one wheel might fail and others not, too many possibilities. I'd check the hole in the rim against the other 3 and se if it is smaller (too tight), or bigger (too loose).

Only one way to find out, post in Buick parts for sale forum for $50 plus shipping and see if anyone bites. Anything less is not worth your time.

Best I can come up with is 25, largely as follows, including the wife's cars and 7 of ours that my boys managed to write off in their early years. Among them are 5 Merkurs, including 3 XR4TI's and 2 Scorpios, both very good but relatively unknown models sold through Ford from 1985-1989. With 4 boys, I managed to see 7 cars written off, no serious injuries, but they were 5-8 year old cars worth not much. Only bought 3 of them new (highlighted), always preferred to buy a second-hand quality car with low mileage. Cars owned 1964 –present 1. 1960 Ford Consul ($400 in 1964, 2nd yr university),2. 1959 VW Karmann Ghia (Corvair engine, 1966-1969),3. 1964ish Datsun 1600 Roadster (1969-1972, project, never driven), 4. 1970 Triumph TR6, Blue (1970-1978), 5. 1975 Pontiac Ventura Coupe 6cyl (1975-81), 6. 1966 Dodge Ram pickup (1978-1982, used while building house), 7. 1981 Honda Civic 4 door (1981-1988), 8. 1981 Volvo 240, 7 seat station wagon (1986-1992), 9. 1983 Renault Medallion/Chrysler Eagle? (wife’s car, 1989-1991, #1 son wrote off), 10. 1985 Merkur XR4TI (1990-1996), 11. 1987 VW Golf (wife’s car, 1991-1993, #2 son wrote off), 12. 1988 Merkur Scorpio (wife’s car, 1993-1997, #3 son wrote off), 13. 1988 Merkur Scorpio (wife’s car, 1997-1999, #3 son wrote off), 14. 1988 Merkur XR4TI (1994-2000), 15. 1988 VW Golf (wife’s car, 1999-2001, #2 Son wrote off), 16. 1997 Saab 900 Convertible (wife’s car 2002-2013), 17. 1985 Merkur XR4TI (1998-2003, project car, never driven), 18. 1996 VW Jetta (2004-2005, #4 son wrote off), 19. 1998 VW Golf 2006-2010 (#4 son wore out), 20. 1990 Nissan 300ZX (2002-2017), 21. 1931 Chevrolet Coach (2008-2021), 22. 1931 Chrysler CD8 Roadster (2014-present), 23.1931 Chrysler CD8 Sedan (donor car 2018-2019), 24. 2007 Volvo C30 (2016-present), 25. 2005 Infinity G35 2018-present). TexRiv_63, aren't you sorry you asked?

Time to get the 5- 18" wire wheels for my 1931 Chrysler CD8 Roadster off to the shop for powder coating. Before I send them, 3 of the lock rings need attention. 2 of the rings are out of round, by about 3/4" or so. As a result, when they are placed on wheels, there is an end gap of about 1"-1.25" instead of the normal 1/4"-1/2". I tried them on wheels with a set of tires and the tires when installed and pressurized do hold the rings to the proper roundness, but I'd rather have them correct to start with and not rely on the tires to keep them round. I tried applying some cross clamping as shown to see if a significant strain might change roundness, but was careful not to apply too much for fear of snapping them (I assume they are spring steel). Clamps accomplished nothing. My next step was perhaps clamping them to slightly under round and applying some heat uniformly, especially in the obviously out of round area. Anyone have thoughts on that, i.e. experience, risks, do's, don'ts? Any other suggestions, or should I just leave them alone? Finally, one ring has a flat spot as shown, likely caused by hitting a curb/pothole sometime in past 90 years. Again, spring steel, so a cold press may risk snapping the piece off. Any thoughts? this ring will likely be put on spare wheel, so not likely a driving issue, more cosmetic, although flat spot can be hidden in spare wheel well. Any advice welcome. Plan is to do wheels black, rings in powder coat chrome, like a similar Marmon wheel shown.

Edinmass, I'm always annoyed when you, whom a lot consider a very knowledgeable and helpful old car guy, especially within the high end of the market place, make such bold statements as "To take any information from any auction catalog is from a factual basis a very bad idea". While I'm not sure just what you intend to imply, I am sure the vast majority of sellers (and Auction Companies) try their best to fairly and accurately describe the cars they are offering as best they know the cars. Yes, as in all sales pitches, some level of license may be used, and potential buyers need to do their own checks and inquiries, but to imply all such sellers (you did say "any auction") are a bunch of circus barkers or crooks is just not fair.

I think Jim S is correct on identity of black Rambler as a 1959/60 Rambler American Sport, a very fine looking car, with the finer mesh grill. Very clean European style when you consider for a moment what the big 3 were offering. Photo likely dates to late 1958 or early 1959, so likely a '59 model, and brand new.

The black '55 Rambler is a very stylish car, looks very European, clean lines compared to much of the American Iron of the day. Their clean look did not last long as shown here for 1956.

As an architect, I routinely come across interesting pictures of well known buildings under construction and occasionally with some interesting cars included. This one showed up on FB recently, the Frank Lloyd Wright designed Guggenheim Museum in NYC, begun in 1956 and completed in 1959. The spiraling design and bold concrete surfaces were quite a change in aesthetics for the time, with the overall theme dating to a few years even earlier (mid-late 40's). This photo also has some interesting cars, not the normal big three stuff. I'm sure K31 can pin them all down.

Very nice work and result. Nicely done wheels are such an important part of a finished restoration. I'm sending my 5-1931 CD8 wheels off today for sandblasting priming and powder coating. Some pitting on lock rings, not sure if we will do much more than live with it.

Nice rare model, should be a worthwhile project, most good body shops could fix what you have if replacement parts not available (which I doubt are available in after-market). As someone mentioned, junkyards may be a source, but rarity may make that a tough hunt, and pieces may be no better than what you have. Good luck.

For years (and maybe still today) movie producers made contracts (sponsorships) with a specific car company to feature primarily their cars in a movie for big money (or coke, cereal you name it) and part of that stipulated in most cases that the cars be new models and in attractive condition. All part of using a popular movie as a subliminal (or overt) marketing ploy. and if a sponsored Ford could be seen outracing a Chevrolet/Dodge, all the better. Only old car guys cared about the unreality of it all!

1/4" will be fine, it is only intended as a low volume drip feed. The lines to the wheels cylinders are sized to deal with the pressure and volume required to actuate brake shoes, and to then quickly return fluid to master cylinder when brake pedal is released. Modern disc brakes often have very small brake lines to cylinders, maybe 1/8" in some cases, but operate under higher pressure of power brakes.

Check size of fitting that connects to both ends, to reservoir and to master cylinder, measure required length and then go to a shop and buy a length of fitted brake line with those fittings, actual size may have been originally 1/8"-3/16", likely does not matter much as it is gravity fed.

It will be interesting to hear what this very nice looking tool is, appears to be some form of descaling (or grooving) tool for pipe/rods, perhaps tie rod bars? The 3 T shaped adaptors tell me something. So many turn screws?

TimFX, I appreciate you taking the time to relate your Dad's WWII experience and your Uncle's misfortune. War is Hell. The 1931 Chevrolet Roadster was often referred to as the "Baby Cadillac" due to it's sporty looks, so no doubt by 1940's or so your Dad would have been a popular guy around camp. I rebuilt a 1931 2Door Chevrolet, they were a very good car, 3rd year for the reliable "stovebolt 6", an engine that remained largely unchanged for 30+years (1929-1959+).

Watched it last night on Turner Classic Movies (TCM), first time for me, a bit hokey with predictable ending. Robert Mitchum plays his usual cool character, interesting to see his son James also in cast. As for the cars, MEH!

They are not strikers, but dovetail receivers, used to align door as it closes Strikers catch the door latch to keep door closed. The dovetail receivers were similar on most cars, perhaps if you can describe hole pattern dimensions someone may be able to confirm a fit.

Any economist or financial guru will tell you that people with lots of money seldom make purchasing (or selling) decisions based on momentary factors like inflation, mood of the country, or similar fickle things. They buy/sell based on long term investment strategies, personal likes/preferences, or whim. Sometimes just so no one else (especially a rival) can have it. While the other 99% of us are fearful of making a bad investment/decision on old cars, these guys don't give it a second thought. Do you think for a moment that if Elon Musk, worth about $200B, went to a prestige auction and saw something he liked, he would be pondering if the car is worth the money?

Varun, thanks for references to some historic photo, I was pondering if any still survive.

Thanks Xander for a couple of days of enjoyment going thru your great photos of some fine cars. Something for just about everyone, except maybe the Brass guys. Personally, I like the series of Austin Healeys, MG-T's and E Types.

Nice catch Varun, you never disappoint me and always amaze me. Another awfully rare car. BTW, I haven't been able to find one existing on internet search.

I have these pieces of hood hardware from a circa 1930 LaSalle hood (plus one door striker plate), may fit other GM products of that period, all in excellent condition, asking $50.

Nice photo assemblage Xander. For the benefit of our francophone friends, please amend title to Concours, a french word for competition. BTW, Concours d'Elegance is a term of French origin that means a "competition of elegance" and refers to an event where prestigious vehicles are displayed and judged. I suspect it is used too often for events where "prestigious" may not apply to many of the vehicles shown, but this event seems to have some wonderful vehicles. Would it have been a "by invitation only" event?