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BORA72

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About BORA72

  • Birthday 11/26/1966

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  1. Hello again, I inspected the car some days ago. I am attaching a picture of the body plate. Wheelbase is 125" -> Commander. The car has been fully restored in 2018-2019 and driven barely afterwards. Quality of the restoration is very nice. Overall I would say it´s a condition #2+ car. Bare metal repaint, new floors, engine and all mechanics rebuilt, new wiring, etc. There are some non-period correct repairs and upgrades for drivability and safety. Electronic ignition (original parts available), switchboard with fuse box for startix and more installed under the dash. Heater pipes / fittings and re-manufactured air filter in stainless steel. Taillights are wrong (not oval). Split rear bumper is correct with the luggage rack. (referring to an earlier comment from studeq) Engine is starting and running excellent. No smoke at all, good compression. I will have a test drive on Thursday next week (there was still snow and salt on the roads when inspecting the car 2 weeks ago). I will probably buy the car and bring it to my garage on Friday. Asking price is USD 55.000,-. I think that's reasonable / fair? Best regards, Otto
  2. Dear All, thank you very much for your answers and the information provided. Very useful and clarifying! I will post more pictures and details after inspecting the car next Friday. Two more questions: - How about parts availability? Are there any sources? I already own a 1931 Stutz, a 1934 Auburn, a 1939 Lincoln Model K and some others. So I am aware of the challenges I might be facing 😥. My cars are no "trailer queens". I use to drive them, sometimes under hard conditions when attending rally's in the Austrian Alps. - What would be the value / price for a similar "good" (I assume it will be condition # 2-3) car in the US? Best regards, Otto PS. Some pictures when driving my cars - in case anyone is interested in:
  3. Thank you RBK, I will check the serial number when inspecting the car next Friday.
  4. Hello,I am thinking about buying a 1932 Studebaker Coupe offered locally in Europe/Austria to add it to my collection. I will inspect the car by end of next week.The car is offered as a 1932 Commander Series Eight Regal?The engine is described as a 4100 ccm / 250 cui straight eight with 102 BHP.I found an older advert where the car was offered as a president?I will continue my search.I am attaching the few pictures I received so far.It would be great to get some details from the Studebaker experts! Is it a Dictator, a Commander, a President? Is the engine correct?Maybe someone knows the car?Any expertise would be higly welcome!Thank you for your support!Best regards,Otto
  5. I already e-mailed Jay Astheimer. It seems he does not have a matching head. Thanks!
  6. Hello, I am looking for a good, non-cracked G70 cylinder head for a 1926 Chrysler. From a previous post in the forum I learned it should be part # 53948 being the standard one or a # 75616 being a red head. Any tips, hints and offers higly welcome. Thanks! Attached are pictures of the head I repaired on the car. However, I would prefer to buy a non-cracked head in addition. Thank you for your support, Otto
  7. Hello again to the Early Chrysler Community, for all of you interested in: I repairded the cracked head. I had the crack laser welded, installed a "bandage" with heat resistent and flexible sealing and hat the head surface grinded. I installed the head yesterday and had the engine running for 30 minutes. Everything fine. No leaking, no overheating. Attached is a picture of the repaired head. However, I would still be interested in purchasing a correct, non-cracked cylinder head. I learned from you, I need a a G70 cylinder head, # 53948 being the standard one or a # 75616 being a red head. I will start a seperate post to search fo a fitting head. Thanks again, best regards & greetings from Austria, Otto
  8. Hello again, late Christmas Wishes from Austria to the whole community! Take care, stay healthy. I repaired the cracked cylinder head in the meanwhile. Laser welding did not work out perfect as the cast material is very old and porous. Still some minor leaking after laser welding. Therefore I installed an "metal plate cover" in addition. I will bring the head to the engine shop for pressure testing next week again. Hopefully no more leaking. Fingers crossed. I will post some pictures of the repaired cylinder head once the job has been completed successfully. Could anyone please advice regarding the torque specs when installing and fastening the repaired head? I would still be interested in buying a good / not cracked head for the G70 engine. Any leads and recommendations highly appreciated and welcome. Best regards, Otto
  9. Hello Viv and Keiser31 & the whole community, thank you very much for the information you provided to me so far! I am trying to find an older picture of the cylinder head, where the casting number is still visible. Not sure, if I will find the numbers on some pics. Is there a chance to find / buy a re-casted, NOS or good used cylinder head? I would be very thankful for any tips and hints! Best regards, Otto
  10. Hi Viv and 28 Chrysler, thank you very much for your quick response and support! I checked for the numbers. Number on the top of the timing chain cover is G146555 Casting number on the cylinder head is 628 Pictures including fedco plate on the dashboard and the complete car attached. Greetings, Otto
  11. Hello from Austria! We received a 1924 Chrysler Roadster with a boattail (which I guess is not original) in my workshop yesterday. The engine has a cracked cylinder head. Our predeccors tried to weld the crack, which did not workout. If we cannot find a replacement cylinder head, we will probably be able to repair the head with an "insert plate". This worked fine on other pre-war L-heads we repairde in the past. My questions: - Can anyone help to decode the engine block cast number to make sure which engine we are dealing with? - Are there any sources for a matching NOS or re-casted head? Any tips and hints highly welcome. Thanks, Otto PS. Pictures of engine, head and block casting attached.
  12. Hello All, I recently acquired two 1949 Oldsmobile´s. The cars are on their way to Europe / Austria now, to become part of my private collection of mainly US cars from the 30´s to the 60´s. Both cars are coming with titles showing the engine numbers only. This should not be a problem for registering the cars in Austria. However, I would be happy to get a little bit more of details regarding VIN, numbers matching engines, etc. Could you please re-attach the "49_Olds_Number.jpg". The attachments have been archived or deleted, as the post is from 2008. Thank you very much & greetings from Austria, Otto
  13. Hello everybody and greetings from Austria, I am new to this forum. I picked-up a 3 speed manual transmissions from a friend of mine, who had it left over from his father, who unfortunately passed away last week. I plan to bolt the transmission into one of my vintage cars with adaptions. It might be a Chevrolet / Camaro transmission from the 1970s or early 80s. Could be a "European" version. Not sure if there where different transmissions used for Europe. Numbers on the transmission housing are: GM 40 8925647 I am attaching a couple of photos of the transmission. Could you please help me with decoding to clarify which transmission I do have on my bench now. I will need a speedometer gear (it´s missing) and maybe some other parts. Thank you for your help, Otto
  14. 65Starfire, thank you for your response and advice. (as I am not an native English speaker my poor translation from German might cause some confusion) I need to check if the cap actuates the horn. However, I will search for a "horn button" in parallel. Greatings to New Orleans (I have been there 10 years ago - great place, "I´ll be back", like Arnold Schwarzenegger would say)
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