1957buickjim

I've used Rhode Island Wiring for my harnesses. Exact fit. Correct Colors for wiring diagram in shop manual for trouble shooting.

Jon, The carb was a NOS 2 Barrel Carter. I used a correct, new gasket between the carb and the intake. Here is the vacuum reading at idle. Looks quite good. The other factor that I forgot to mention is that I installed a Pertronix Ignitor ignition system in my distributor and that's about the same time that the problem started. Latest updates: Tuesday, installed a new voltage regulator, just to make sure I was getting good voltage from the generator to the battery (13.78v cold; 13.65v hot). Still idle at 1050rpm to keep systems running when braking or lights on. Yesterday with 95Cardinal (Joe Tonietto) and Larry Schram on the speaker phone, we did a deep dive on the ignition system voltage (like Willie and Lance) said. We checked all the voltages with a load on across the coil, and they maintained a consistent 7.5-7.6 when idling at 1050rpm. When the car was put into gear (drive, low and reverse) did not stall. Tested with loads in park - lights on, brake depressed, blower on high, still had same reading. When the car was put into drive and low, with brakes depressed and headlamps turned on, car would stall. Had a reading of 4.1v across the coil. At that point, we searched for any details that a Pertronix Ignition change might induce. Found out that the petronix needs 12 volts at start to keep ignition going and a coil that is 1.6 ohms or greater for best operation. We checked voltage across the coil when running and we were getting consistently 7.5 -7.6 volts, which is good, past the ballast resistor to the coil. However, the coil itself was a 3.5 ohm coil. We swapped it out for a 2.1 ohm coil, and also ran a jumper from the hot wire (pink) on the ballast resistor to the positive wire from the Pertronix system from the distributor to give it 12 volts at start. We did not change the idle speed, but wanted to find out if the lower ohm coil and jumper to 12V would help. Started the car, and fired immediately. Performed electrical load test, and no issues from any of the systems in park at idle, or with a load. Voltage from the gen to the battery was 13.6-13.7v, which is normal. We decided to try our luck in lowering the idle rpm to see if we could get it to the factory 485 level. Backed off idle to 485 and performed load test. In park at idle, no issues. When shifting to reverse (seems to be the most load for engine), and turn on lights - car stalls. Increased idle speed to 520, performed same test (reverse / brakes / lights) - no stall. Turned on blower motor - stalled immediately. Moved idle up to 560, performed same test (reverse / brakes / lights) and now blower at high - no stall. Voltage at gen was 14.1 with load for peak, leveled off at 13.62, voltage a coil was at 7.3-7.4 with all load on. Took a small test drive at midnight (when we finished) and car did not stall under driving / stopping conditions. It was only a short drive. Longer drive will come tomorrow. So far, the adjustment on the voltage to the Pertronix Ignitor Ignition with the jumper seems to work and the idle is near where it should be. The headlights and interior lights flicker, so my next issue is to look at replacing the light switch and go back and test more ground in the light circuit. The only other unusual thing is that the ammeter needle barely moves during any of the load tests (When the car is running and I turn on my headlamps, the needle doesn't move. Any suggestions? Could this be tied to the pertronix? Thanks.. Jim

Chris, I just put in a freshly rebuilt generator, so that shouldn't be the problem. Gen output has been checked at 13.85 v +/- fluctuation of .1 at gen as well at at the voltage regulator. Battery is very good, holds a good charge. I'm going to try Willie's voltage drop check at coil to see if it is an electrical gremlin. Willie, what would be the process for that? Run a jumper from the battery to the positive lead on coil, and a ground lead from negative battery post to distributor housing? I will start the vacuum leak sleuthing. The carb is an NOS carb I bought, and just installed, because I think I had that throttle shaft leak on the original carburetor. I'll check all the fittings and hoses as well. Where else should I check? Spray around intake, carb base and throttle shaft with carb cleaner, anything else? Thanks so far guys. It's just frustrating trying to pin point it.

Hey Guys, I've been having a heck of a time with this problem for the last couple of months. About 95% of the time, when I come to a stop while driving my Buick, the car will stall. It is now to the point when I anticipate a stop, I put the car into neutral and coast and apply brakes so it doesn't stall. At that point, I can shift into Low, then drive and the car will run fine until I need to stop again. The stalling is the same when I turn on the headlights as well. If the car is park, and I turn on the lights, the car stalls. If I'm under power (driving) and I turn on the lights, OK. It will also stall with the lights on 50 - 75% of the time when I'm stopping as well at night with the lights on. I can get this to stop, but I have to have the idle set to around 1100, which is way high for the car, but I can limp along without any of the stalling issues at that setting. I've been told it is a electrical ground issue, and I have been chasing the grounds on the engine, lights, heater resistor to clean them up, but still have the issue when I turn the idle down to about 850, which is still high, since the idle should be around 485-500. Anybody have any suggestions? I have adjusted the carb to factory idle settings as well as correctly adjusted the linkages. Looking for some help here. Thanks!

Hi Doug, Glad you found the cable as well. Sent you a PM regarding the same. Hope you get your gas tank repaired soon, you need to keep that Special on the road!! Let me know if you are going to Dream Cruise this weekend on this side of the river.

Here's a classic 57 Caballero camping trip!

Steve, On my 57 Caballero, the weatherstriping around the liftgate is on the car body. It is a da very high density foam. I have attached a picture of the profile for you. I am not sure, but there may be a profile that is very similar that Steele has for this from a different vehicle. I will check with my buddy 95Cardinal as he is doing a 58 Caballero right now. Hope this helps. Regards, Jim

Have you tried to adjust it? It does require that when you install it on the column. The method is in the shop manual in the Signal Section near the end of the manual.

That's the McGyver way to do it! Way to go Lance! I'm gonna try that stuff as well.

Steele Rubber has a kit for you car. They are pretty much in line. I've used Steele for my weatherstrips on both my vehicles. Fit and look factory like. As for paint, I went through TCP Global. They have a section called Auto Color Library, where you can look up the factory color paint of your car, and order it in various types (Lacquer, Enamel, SS Urethane, Base coat/ClearCoat) A lot less costly then what you are working with, and the paint matches the factory color chart really well. website is TCPGlobal.com. Hope this helps.

Michael, I found these pictures in my files. Hope they help. Jim

Are you sure its not 8K rupees? That seems more in the ball park...or cricket field..LOL

From Hagerty Valuation Guide. $$$ in > $$$ Sold with this one. Parts car maybe. No road trip in my future for this one..and no roof rack!!

Mack, Here is a picture of the rear suspension with the panhard bar on my 57 Sedan.

Mack, It is supposed to be straight. That is quite the curvature on that panhard bar. I would try to find a replacement for that one. I'm quite sure someone on the forum has one for a 57 available. On the otherside, your progress is looking great! I wish my wagon was at that level right now... Jim

Hi Larry, What a cool car! Sounds like you have a good start on things for sure! Don't worry about dei ( Doug).He is a great guy and I know him personally and he is an avid car guy with many makes. He is just letting you know that you are on a Buick forum with mostly (ok 99%) Buick owners, not so much T-birds. But however, if you want to know more about a frame on restoration, I am more than happy to provide you any guidance I can. You can email me at 1957buickjim@gmail.com. Hopefully, I can help you with your quest, and if not, point you in the right direction. I have often though about doing a T-Bird (1956/57) so I would be more than happy to help you. Let me know. Jim

Pete, If 'm not mistaken, there is a curvature to the metal on the parts, so perhaps just a brake, shears and a spot welder may not be all you need. Just something to consider.

Mack, Not sure about the bolt length, I'll try to find it tonight. As for the body mounts, why don't you just buy the ones from Bob's Automobilia or CARS. They already have the steel sleeve molded in and are the right thickness / height for the car. It would save you a lot of work and trial by error with the mount height / fit to the frame. Just a suggestion. More to follow.

Nice job! I'll have to remember that when I'm putting mine back together.

Hate to tell you, but there is no diagram. Best if you took pictures while you were removing it and could reference them with the notes you took while did-assembling the trim. The clip access holes have to be drilled through the window seal all the way along, and then install the clips on the trim, install the trim clips through the holes into the inside of the liftgate, then install the barrel nuts to tighten the trim down. That is what you will need to do to get the trim to snug up against the seal and glass. Good luck!

PM Sent

Mike, You can get one made if you have a pattern, like the passenger door. They are the same design. It is flat, tempered glass and any automotive glass place should be able to make it for you. The green tinting is an automotive standard. This is a lot better option than used glass. Hope that helps.

Hi Doug, You have to drop the column from under the dash. Take off the lower trim piece under the PNDLR and trans shift lever. Stamped metal piece, held on by 2 screws. then loosen / remove the two 9/16 nuts holding the steering column to the IP / Dash. The steering column should start to fall when you are lowering the nuts.There is a die cast bracket that "clamshells" the steering column to the IP, which is held on by the fasteners. It will all make sense when you remove the trim from under the steering column. That should give yo enough play to work with the bracket to the cowl duct cover as well as get the rag joint installed as falt as you can. Then in the terms of the shop manual, reverse the procedure. Hope that explains it for you.

Hey Doug, Yes, with your rag joint, it is a bit of a bugger to get the new one back in place, as the diameter for the pins are smaller. The part is a very common GM part, and one can buy it from the local AutoZone, O'Rielly, NAPA parts guys. I think my kit cost about $15-18 USD with all the new bolts, pins etc. I've done it with the Old Bessie (Sedan) and just recently with the Wagon. Always good insurance when you are working on the steering. Just make sure to tighten them up each a little at a time, and also, it works better if the steering column is loose, or disconnected from the dash. It will set better between the steering shaft and the steering gear, then attach the steering column back to brackets (cowl duct) and IP/Dash connection. Just giving you a lessons learned public service announcement. Good luck! Jim

Looking good, Pete! Love the color combination.