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trp3141592

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Everything posted by trp3141592

  1. Hi, Split CV joint boots are readily available. Google "dorman cv joint boots" and you'll get a zillion hits. --Tom
  2. Hi, On my 37 Roadmonster I have found that I could not install the sidemount covers if the tires were inflated. So I deflated them, installed the covers, and then re-inflated the tires. As far as I am concerned, they are just cosmetic (But boy, are they sexy!). I have a "real" spare tire in the trunk. --Tom
  3. Hi, This is a two-person job. That radiator is heavy! Before I had it out I first removed the fan. I recall that the fan had to be removed in order to get the radiator out. Be sure to put a cardboard shield on the radiator to prevent damage. The real trick of this whole process is to turn the fan bolts around backwards through the hub so you can hang the pulley and the fan on them for re-installation using nuts. The fan is nearly un-installable otherwise. I don't recall specifically, but you may need longer bolts for the fan--an easy hardware item. --Tom
  4. Hi, These are hydraulic brakes, so the pressure at the wheel cylinders would be equalized before they apply strong stopping pressure. I agree with the above comment: flex hoses swell inside where you can't see it, and then they restrict fluid flow. Assuming you do not have an oil- or fluid-spot on your brake shoes, this is where I would put my attention. Be sure to get DOT-standard replacement hoses--not the cheap Argentine crap on Ebay. --Tom
  5. Hi, No need to mark the position with chalk. The pulley location is set with a keyway. --Tom
  6. Hi, Members may be interested to know that a 1967 Buick Riviera won the Best 1965-69 at the annual "There's Something About Saugatuck (TSAS)" car meet in Saugatuck, MI, two weeks ago. Sponsored by the Michiana Dunes Region of the Lambda Car Club International, TSAS is the major event in the Midwest for the Lambda Car Club organization with nearly 100 vehicles registered. [EDIT--OMG--I overlooked the Best 1990-94 winner--a 1990 Buick Reatta! Members, forgive me!] Here's a link to The Hardtop News newsletter listing winners and events: https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=20ACF37336860DAB!528&authkey=!AIIXHKY3fVg_038&ithint=folder%2cpdf --Tom
  7. Hi, Bought stainless from Kepich for the Cord 812. Quite happy. You need stainless menders and hangers (easily obtained from Jegs, Summit racing, or Ebay for that matter) rather than shrink clamps. --Tom
  8. Hi, Although I know very little about 3-D printing, it may be a good idea to look into that avenue for replacement parts. --Tom
  9. Hi, Have you talked with Ron at wiperman.com? He knows everything about Trico. --Tom
  10. Hi, I believe the carburetor would be a Stromberg. My 37 RM did the same thing. I decided the best approach was to bite the bullet and send it off for rebuilding last week. Many capable services can be found with a google search. I have used Carburetor Factory for two carbs, and both worked perfectly when I got them back. --Tom
  11. Hi, Thanks for this enjoyable Buick article. It's going into the September Hardtop News, the news magazine of the Michiana Dunes Region of the Lambda Car Club International. --Tom
  12. Hi, LOL 37_Roadmaster_C-----Increase your fun in the 60 by assuming the position in the driver's seat and snapping your fingers in a mystical magic sweep of your hand, and of course the engine starts--by MAGIC. No one notices you pushing down the accelerator. Works great with kids of all ages. My 50 Studie Champ had the starter switch on the floor under the clutch pedal. I did the "magic start" trick many many times! I probably ought to explain that to my now-grown grandson one of these days. Or maybe not... --Tom
  13. Hi, There's no way I would scrap my 37 over this issue, but I DID bypass the rotary switch that used to be connected to the gas pedal linkage. When the vacuum control in that rotary switch fails, the engine tries to start on low vacuum situations, causing a lot of noise and considerable owner anxiety. I have a heavy duty push button starter switch now. --Tom
  14. Hi, Whenever possible, when removing metal lines, be sure to use a line wrench and to double-wrench both sections. --Tom
  15. Hi, I did not know this about crap-ohol gas. There's no real gasoline available around here, unfortunately. I just had the fuel pump rebuilt with modern materials, and it probably is putting out more pressure than before. Soooo--increased pressure, compromised float, hmmmm. leaking fuel. I'll pull the carb and see what's up. Or,rather, not up. Thank you for your insight. --Tom
  16. Hi, My 37 Roadmaster has started dripping--not a flow, but a substantial amount-of gasoline at the carburetor. What do you think--stuck float? Does this have a cork float that may have become saturated? --Tom
  17. Hi, It's AMAZING what a great difference a straight fender and some paint make! Nice ride! --Tom
  18. Hi, I have not converted my Buick, but I did convert my disassembled 1937 Cord. I bought the dual MC from Jegs.com. Their tech people were very helpful in selecting the best manual brake MC for the job. Here's what my install looks like: https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=20ACF37336860DAB!118&authkey=!AOPRBiQVHvN-DAU&ithint=folder%2cjpg Jegs and Summit Racing have a large selection of vacuum-boosted master cylinders for custom building. Perhaps you can find what you need from their sites and tech people. --Tom
  19. @37_Roadmaster_C Hi, I haven't looked into that yet. Perhaps other readers will provide some references and experiences? --Tom
  20. Hi, Thank you, Dave! I'll get the grandson to do this as well, while I sip lemonade! --Tom
  21. Hi, I am planning to remove the speedometer from the 37 RM for rebuilding/repair, probably in late autumn. I am asking for the voices of experience here: how best to proceed? One theory is to try to remove all of the instruments and instrument panel in one assembly, tilt it outward, then un-attach the speedometer from the panel. The other theory is to have the much more athletic grandson try to detach the speedometer from the instrument panel from behind while the panel is still installed to the dash. Since I don't fit well under a dashboard any more, I lean toward the first theory, but I am concerned about the temperature gauge tubing and how to deal with it while tipping the panel downward and outward. Any veterans of this procedure have some advice for me? --Tom
  22. Hi, I don't know what this tank fits--sorry. But I am not surprised that it has three fitting holes in it: 1) Sending unit, 2) drain, 3) fuel line pick-up connection point. An- S-shaped pickup tube with a filter on the end would be used. --Tom
  23. Hi, Makes me think of the mid-50's "V" of a Cadillac V hood emblem. --Tom
  24. Hi, Don't forget to protect your car with fuses. --Tom
  25. Hi, Chatter in the clutching process is often traceable to a failed motor mount. --Tom
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