trp3141592

Hi, There have been many threads concerning the Hayes power brake set-up on 53's. In a word--they are/were dangerous. A search of the forum will lead you to many articles. --Tom

Hi, I thought Buick rod bearings were cast-in place Babbitt? Apparently not. So what's the switch to "insert" rod bearings in about 1948? What's the difference in before-insert and after-insert? --Tom

Hi, http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/0703sr_fabricating_tapered_cones/ You can make your own. --Tom

Hi Tell that to Jay Leno... --Tom

Hi, Ignition wires wear out and start "talking" to each other. Yeah, they really do. And cheap-ass wires are no good from the start. Old NOS plugs may be cracked. Clean your plugs and check carefully for cracked ceramics. Then buy some good quality wires. --Tom

Hi Josh, Don't feel badly. Surprised me to find that the Cord V-8 is timed on Number 4! This is how we learn! --Tom

I 2nd that opinion. Screams Cad/LaSalle to me. --Tom

Hi, I am thinking that the amount of vacuum has nothing at all to do with these symptoms. I suggest that you should look at the following: 1. How much friction is in the wiper transmission shafts? These can be lubricated easily with Lock-Ease, which leaves a coating of graphite behind when it evaporates. It also will not wash out of anything you get in onto, and it will fill your fingerprints until it wears off. 2. Perhaps more importantly, the operation of the motor is 100% dependent on the condition of the paddle. When you disassembled the motor you certainly came across the paddle--it's the beef in this burger. The leather or rubber seal at the edges wears, gets stiff, or deteriorates, and you have significant vacuum loss around the perimeter. Vacuum loss = lack of operating force. I know of no source for replacement paddles. I assume that Rob Ficken either rebuilds them or has a huge NOS inventory or has paid for or made tooling to make them. He doesn't sell them. Bottom line, lube the transmission shafts with graphite. If that doesn't work, send the motor to Rob Ficken at wiperman.com. --Tom

Hi, The fun part is putting that motor back in. You need one hand to hold it, one hand to work the screw driver, and one hand to hold the screw onto the screwdriver. I was born with only two. Oh, and that's all while upside down so you can't move your arms. Oh yeah, the sweat runs down into your eyes and blinds you. And your trouble light either 1) creates a shadow where you need to be able to see, or 2) slips and puts a 3rd degree burn on your forearm. And you can't fit your two arms that close together to hold the motor AND the fastener, so it's effectively a one-handed task. My solution was to get some knobs with 10-32 threaded studs (Lowe's, or mcmaster.com # 3857K21), start one knob in one end of the wiper motor, slide the motor into place and hand tighten the knob to hold the motor in place, which allows you to place the other end of the motor on top of the sheet metal mounting ear and then start the 2nd knob. No one will ever know, or care, that you threw away the slot-head screws. --Tom PS--You want to do this again? As big a pain as this motor is to remove and install, you might just bite the bullet and send it to wiperman.com. It's worth it.

Hi, Ditto on my 40 LaSalle. It strikes me that if there are radiator problems, some prior owner probably dumped in a carload of Stop-Leak. That stuff sets up like cement in the water jackets. I chipped mine clear with an air chisel and constant hose-flow of water. I also re-cored the radiator, of course, like the prior dummy should have done. --Tom

Hi, Look at www.riwire.com --Tom

Hmmm-- A possible new chapter in The Adventures of Lucas--Prince of Darkness! --Tom

Hi, The unintended purpose of the bypass valve is to overheat the engine when it fails. :-( --Tom

Hi, Good insight, Bill. I had that happen on a 1950 Studebaker--took me a lot of investigating to find it. --Tom

Hi, 1. fuel pump 2. coil is intermittent 3. fuel pick-up clogged by stuff in tank 4. cap cracked 5. Cap has carbon tracks inside 6. Condenser shot 7. Fuel float level off, or fuel float sinks 8. Ignition plug wires shot/coil wire shot--look for fireworks under the hood at night 9. Distributor shaft bearing worn--shaft wobbles 10. Gasohol fuel is boiling--insulate fuel line. --Tom

Hi, SWEET! I am jealous of all the elbow room that you have! --Tom

Hi, Hello! Turning the fan around does not change the direction of air flow, but it does change the fan's efficiency. Your fan was pulling both before and after you turned it around. --Tom

Hi, I used the Devcon #62345 epoxy with steel powder in it to fill gaps and solidify the LaSalle's steering wheel. I used masking tape to form a mold around the gaps, filled the gaps, heated gently with a heat gun to get the epoxy runny, then to set up in a matter of a couple of minutes. Then I removed the masking tape by hand and by using fine-grain sand paper where needed. Not so pretty, but cheap and effective! --Tom

Hi, LOL--just wait until you need tie rod ends! BTW--I may have that clip--I'll check tomorrow. --Tom

Hi Mike, While you're about it, consider your rubber brake hoses. If your cylinders are clogged/pitted/leaking/failing, my guess is that your hoses are probably old and shot also. These guys can look fine, but they deteriorate on the inside where you can't see them! You may find hose debris in your brake fluid in the wheel cylinders. Beware of EBay Argentine hoses--get DOT-standard hoses for your car. Hoses Unlimited in Holland Michigan is my source. BTW--does your car have a 4th hose? A little guy that is connected directly to the master cylinder? If so, don't forget to replace him! --Tom

Hi, Motor mount(s) shot? Different length bolts from torque converter to flywheel? Damaged fan belt? --Tom