1912Staver

The one easy to find thing for most Brass Era cars are lights. That and most magneto's. If anything got saved when a brass era car was junked it was either the lights or the mag. If only all the other parts were so easy !

Tex Riv hit the nail on the head ! What car hobby person doesn't have a bucket list of cars ?

My father was very interested in Vintage cars, but never owned one except when a young man driving what were just " used cars " at the time. But he took me to lots of shows and other old car related events. The cars he was interested in varied quite a bit. Late 1930's Buick's and LaSalle's, 49-51 Mercury's , 62 Old's Starfire's and a number of others. He worked at a GM Dealership all his life. But as a parts man , and mainly the medium duty and larger truck end of GM. He did almost all of his own maintenance and repair, right up to ring and valve jobs. I became very interested in the old car hobby as a result.

As far as I know flat base lifters are not heat treated, at least in the way most people think. The cam contact end is " chilled " when the casting is still hot from the casting process. The chilling makes the grain structure of the fresh casting very hard and dense. I expect most old lifters can be reground at least once as long as the wear / pitting isn't too deep. It used to be a very common practice at cam grinding shops.

Bring A Trailer results for Lotus Eleven. lotus eleven For Sale - BaT Auctions (bringatrailer.com)

Here is a very worthy car already right in the U.S. It's in the for sale, " not mine " section. A bit pricy perhaps { but not by much in my opinion, I have been tracking these cars for 50 years now } , but look on Bring a trailer to get an idea of what they usually go for when correctly restored. The most recently sold one that went for a heavily discounted price is I feel something of an outlier. Mostly due to the fact that it is 95 % new construction . Pay more attention to what the more correct / authentic ones are selling for. Why bend over backwards to bring fragments back from Europe when really great projects are right here in North America?

Not at all. Everything from total basket cases to show winners and everything in between.

I think you are going to be own on that one. A jig saw puzzle for sure. Just hope you have all the pieces. Do you have any photo's taken before it was taken apart ?

If it is a car that is worth { at least to you } importing from Europe , and restoring from a tattered hulk. I would think a " salvage " heading on the Title is irrelevant / the least of your worries. Please clue us in to just what this machine actually is. { we are not going to fly over to Europe and buy it out from under your nose } Why is it worth such extreme effort ? Lots of very rare { and even some rare AND desirable } projects already in North America. Why not look a little closer to home ? Unless we are talking about a vehicle of at least say Aston Martin DB4, 5 or 6 status or equivalent I can't see where this is ever going to work out for you.

Agree 100% Gearheadengineer. The shop I worked at in the mid 1980's had one of these in for some work. It looked a lot like this one from the outside. Once up in the air it was easy to see the frame had quite a bit of serious rust . Worst was where the rear section joined to the side rails. Never buy one of these without a very close , in person check of the frame.

100% a scam !! It has all the warning signs!! Drop any interest at once, it is "too good to be true." They are are setting you up for fraud.

Stutz ?

I would be careful that it is not a scam. $6,500 seems like a "too good to be true " situation. Check the paperwork very carefully.

Nothing you buy from Europe is going to have a Title { or even Canada for that matter} . The whole Title thing seems to be a uniquely American document. And even at that from what I have heard on this forum and others something that varies a great deal from State to State. Most States seem to issue them, but a few don't. And several seem to only issue them on vehicles newer than a certain year. Very confusing to a Non U.S. person. But every country has some form of ownership document for road going vehicles. Of course in many cases these documents get lost or don't get transferred when ownership changes . Very common on non road worthy cars. And even ownership documents in many / most countries started some time after cars first appeared. So if you are dealing with an old enough vehicle there may have never been any formal documentation in the first place. It can be a real can of worms. Best to sort this out when the vehicle is still in its home country. It might mean a " European vacation " is needed to sort things out. I would not worry about the wheel situation. Very few vehicles have totally unique wheels. Generally replacements turn up or can in worst case situations be reproduced. From what I have seen some sort of wheel can usually be attached. It does not have to be something you would set out on the road with. If it is a bolt on wheel just drill holes on some junk yard wheels / tires to match the hubs and bolt them on. So what if they are not 100 % concentric, its only going to get pushed around by hand , or perhaps towed at a very low speed . What sort of car are you considering ?

Absolutely biggest obstacle around here is that very very few under 40 or so have a house. Average single family house price { province wide , 5.5 million people} , is pennies under $ 1,000,000.00 Canadian { $750,000.00 U.S. } , with nearly all the lower end places way out in the wilderness. British Columbia is a very big place. Old cars and Apts. or even Town houses just don't mix. The few houses for rent are at least 3K a month { usually more } and usually if a landlord sees you working on a old car you are out. Younger people for the most part just don't have any place to keep or work on a hobby vehicle. Rent a shop on a farm ? There are quite a few around me but rents start at about $1500.00 / month and climb rapidly from there. During my sell off last year a fair number of young people came by. Lots of interest. But none bought , liked what I was selling and really liked my asking prices . But none of them had any available space. Everything I sold went to buyers 50 and above except for a couple of vintage dirt bike projects.

The coupe would be a nice car , either back to stock or a mild street machine. But like many / most project cars these days difficult to justify from a cost { both the hundreds if not a thousand or more hours required . and all the expenses along the way }. A person would be well advised to carefully research what decent driver examples are selling for these days before taking on even a reasonably easy project like this McLaughlin. The whole project car thing has been turned on its head over the last few years . Even more so for us Canadians who face substantially higher prices for everything than our U.S. fellow hobbyist's. I have sold several of my project cars over the last year. Give away prices were the only way to get them into someone else's garage. Should have sold them 5 years ago, when at least 3 of them were worth reasonably serious money. To get a sale last year I was down to about 30 or 40 cents on the dollar compared to what I could have sold them for 5 - 8 years ago. Still 2 or 3 to go. Buyers already lined up. I just have to bring myself to give the deals the final OK. It kind of breaks your heart at this stage. The cars either head south or get broken up for the valuable parts. On the ones that get parted 80 % ends up in the bin. The really valuable stuff often just ends up on a " clone ". Just too expensive to restore the rough " real deal " car's I bought back in the 1980's and squirreled away for 40 years. $50,000 - $60,000 cars when finished , but $75,000 + to restore them these days. In either case they are gone for good.

Ad says " one of a kind ". Thank goodness !

Jon is 100% correct. He is the carb king! The 1918 and newer ones are quite a bit different in construction. The main body is a iron casting on the 1918 and up version. Only the float bowl is a brass casting. They look very similar otherwise, just a 2 piece body rather than one piece like in your photo. The other difference is that 1918 onward the intake of the carb is machined to take a big hot air stove and a rotary valve. Stove is cast iron and valve is aluminum. These days the hot air provision isn't really needed unless you are using your car in cold conditions. Which very few owners do . But it is a correct part for the year. Harder to find than the Carb. itself. So 2 piece construction and a assembly of one iron casting and one smaller brass casting. I have one or two of them , but I have no idea of where they are at the moment. I moved last summer and all my spare parts are packed up in boxes. About 100 or more boxes. Finding anything at the moment is almost impossible.

The coupe looks like it might be worth saving. Was it for sale ? How far away from a potential market ? If you have to spend a $1000.00 + on fuel to bring back a $2500.00 project car you better buy it very cheap. Or really want it yourself. A 38 McLaughlin coupe is a very nice pre war, hobby car by Canadian standards.

There probably was not a factory " shop manual ", just the owners handbook. Very few if any makes published what we now call a shop manual in 1925. However most owners handbooks were reasonably comprehensive in their coverage of normal maintenance and to a certain degree repair.

30 Dodge is on the right path in bring up factory fitment of bumpers on commercial vehicles. A good many of the trucks built prior to the general factory fitment of bumpers on passenger cars had factory front bumpers. Sometimes optional , but frequently part of the standard build for the truck. Look at pictures of things like Packard , White , and other larger truck makes from the early teens onward, and many / most have factory bumpers. Rear bumpers were { and still are } much less common on commercial vehicles. Passenger cars in most cases took a decade or more to make bumpers part of the standard build of the vehicle. The aftermarket filled the void . Many different versions were on the market.

The few surviving 510's around here are highly valued. But rust killed off 99.5 % of them decades ago. Late 1970's / early 1980's almost everyone I knew had at least one of them. I only had one , plus 2 Datsun 1200's. All are sought after these days. If you spent more than about $400.00 you overpaid, I fixed blown head gaskets on a few owned by friends. About their only weak spot. Actually usually a warped head.

Absolutely, if you can get an employer to cover a good part of the cost it is a major help. Canada is different than the U.S. , a lot different ! A very sizable percentage of Canadians { 90% by all reports } live in close proximity { within 100 miles} to the U.S. border. And even at that primarily in two general locations Southern Ontario / Quebec , and South Western British Columbia {over 80 % of Canada's population }. People do live outside these spots, but the cost of living is even higher than the rest of Canada. { Alberta is cheaper, but much more winter than the Vancouver area even in Calgary. Edmonton is usually even colder.} So unless you are directly tied to farming / ranching or a resource industry it does not make much financial sense. { or you like a hermit / woodsman existence } I already live in the place a good percentage of Canadians would move to if they could afford the staggering price of housing in South Western British Columbia. I could have gone to B.C.'s interior and saved somewhat on the property cost, but the wild fire risk is becoming a real factor to be reckoned with. I have been retired for 5 years now so moving for a job isn't going to happen. And much the same for moving to the U.S. , something my wife and I were very close to doing about 30 years ago when our job skills would have made such a move reasonably easy.

The cost of that 10 mile move was somewhere between $50,000.00 and $60,000.00 { Canadian so about $40,000. USD } Mostly rent back on the place I sold. but about $10,000 in fuel and $4,000.00 to move the bigger stuff I could not move myself. 3, 1946 Chevy 2 and 3 tons. My "square body " 81 GMC tow truck which decided to break down 2 weeks into the move and 2 " small " { for commercial quality } lathes , 1 medium size milling machine. Once again a commercial quality machine as opposed to " home workshop " quality, and my smallish { 35 HP ] older diesel tractor. If I was moving say several hundreds of miles the cost of moving would have been well over $100,000.00. A housing crisis in my area and knock your socks off rents. New owner had me over a barrel on the rent back and went for the jugular. Costs in some parts of the U.S. will be less; Canada is just nuts for things like rent and fuel , but any longer distance " car guy " move is going to be a very costly situation where ever you live. I was in the old place for 27 years and been collecting for nearly 50 years, so needless to say things had accumulated. Several projects sold off to other collectors ; all four of my vintage tractors for example, plus about 8 tons to the scrap man. Much of that wasn't really scrap, just things I no longer needed and could not get a non scrap man buyer for given the relatively short time frame I had available. I am not saying that someone with a 10 car collection { and presumably the shop set up , tools , equipment to support it } would not make a 1000 mile move in any circumstance. But when you look at the basic logistics and costs of such a move I think the likelihood of such a buyer is far outweighed by someone already in the general area. Hemmings real estate category can't hurt, the cost of the listing is low . Similar for the other suggestions mentioned. I agree, you never know.

In practical terms , very few people are going to move very far just to get the " perfect " old car property. So 98 % of your potential buyers are likely to be within a 50 or so mile radius. If someone has enough collectors vehicles and related stuff to make use of a property like this then moving it all is a huge job. { I just spent the last 10 months doing just that and the move was only about 10 miles }. At the end of it all a friend who helped out during the move remarked that I should have spent the first week moving my two best cars, any parts for those cars alone and my hand tools. Monday of the second week called the scrap man for everything else. His logic was that by the time you added up all the costs of moving just that 10 miles { rent back on the old property , gas, wear and tear on my truck and trailer and the value of 10 months of my time } the cost of making the move exceeded the value of the old car stuff moved. Unfortunately at the end of it all I think he was probably correct.