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1931 Plymouth


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Yes. The best way to reinstall the rim onto the wheel is to first of all, be sure the valve stem hole is at the top. Gently, work the stem into the hole and rest the rim onto the wheel felloe (steel band around the spokes). Wiggle it to get it as aligned as you can and GENTLY tap down onto the lower, inside part of the rim and it should slide over the wheel felloe. DO NOT POUND HARD as you could damage the rim.

Edited by keiser31 (see edit history)
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Thanks Keiser 31 just order tires tubes and rim liners from Summit racing hope to get them this week, man have you guys been a Great help, took my five grandchildren on a ride down the block on fathers Day boy that was lots of fun they were asking where was the a/c, told them all six windows, Thanks again. 

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The second tool is a rim spreader, but I would not use it. If you need a tool like the one I showed, I can loan it to you if it would be worth it to send back and forth. Or you could look for one.

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19 minutes ago, 51Baldeagle said:

Mr.Keiser31 that's  very kind sir and appreciate it , I took a picture of it and will look for one there's a swap meet in Fredericksburg next month, for the time I'll be o.k. Thanks a bunch. 

The main thing to look for is to be certain the tool has the rectangular end to insert into the rim lock.

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Spinneyhill                          in the early 30s detergent oil was not used in these cars      if there was a filter it was not full flow so little got cleaned-----the technology with the non detergent oil was that the dirt in oil world fall in pan and be removed at oil change       by using detergent oil in this motor you keep the crap in suspension so it damages the motor  also some old motor shops have noticed the detergent may act on babbitt bearings     if there is sludge in the pan it is there not because the wrong oil was used but because the owner did not change the oil------------I have a 32 PA     use 30 W oil     I have noticed that multi viscosity oil seems to hold oil pressure better so you be the judge-------greetings to new member       it seems like a nice car     do you self a favor ----drop the pan clean the pan and screen and get a new gasket     and learn about your car----------THANKS

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I don't want to hijack the thread, but broker-len's comments on oil should be challenged.

 

Non-detergent was all there was. It wasn't "technology" that allowed dirt to settle, is was as far as the technology went - it was a consequence, not a design decision. I am sure very few shops would remove and clean out the sump on oil changes - the customer didn't want to wait that long nor pay for it.

 

It is a myth that dirt in the oil will damage the bearings. It is extremely fine and will not settle much during normal operation so goes through the bearings. Anything that will do damage is larger and will settle out when the oil slows when the engine is running (the glass bowl on your fuel pump works in the same way). The dirt does settle out when the engine stops: in the oil ways, in the valve gallery and on the tappets, in the timing cover and on the timing gear, in the sump, and so on. If there are metal bits in there that will do damage, there is a serious problem already and it is time to find the problem.

 

Lower price cars were built down to a price during the depression so newish things like oil filters didn't penetrate far into the market. Bypass oil filters are fairly effective but not as good as full flow filters. No filter is far less good. Oil was changed frequently as a result (1500 miles in the summer and 500 miles in the winter in my 1930 Dodge Brothers 8).

 

On what basis do they think "detergent oil" damages Babbit? I expect it is more likely a less than perfect Babbit job to begin with. Oil additives are tested to ensure they do not damage the metals and alloys in the engine. Shell bearings are just very thin Babbit with a steel backing anyway.

 

Please read Richard Widman's paper on oil: http://www.widman.biz/Corvair/English/Links/Oil.html

On the basis of this I have change from a 20W-50 to a 5W-40 CI-rated oil in the Dodge. Oil pressure comes up quickly on startup when most wear occurs. The first number refers to the cold condition viscosity so applies to startup. The viscosity curves in Widman's paper clearly show how viscosity reduces as temperature rises, so a lower viscosity when cold is better for getting the oil flowing around the engine quickly.

 

Are you using 30W oil or 30-weight oil? There is a big difference.

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We did dropped the pan clean it from all the sludge, clean the strainer change the oil pan gasket motor look's very clean inside, pour in 30W oil pressure

is great,  got my new tires will drive it tomorrow if every things good I will then join the rest of the guys at the Tower of the Americas for a show n shine. 

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Edited by 51Baldeagle
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thank you   spinneyhill       I always want to learn     the shop that redid my 4 cylinder has been there since the 30s      told me the detergent acts on the babbit material             in there opinion !!!!!   other friends use straight 30 for the same reason---I was told that the new oils are made to hold the dirt in suspension      which would not be good-   I have used 10w30    and think it holds better pressure when hot,, you do make some  good points    so                   the jury is still out !!!!!    BR

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Follow up guys the car ran Great did notice water leak from one of the hoses stop and fix it,  took it to the Tower of the Americas where we ( the Alamo City Rods) meet on Fridays we have a great assortment of car, from Original to street rods, the tourist when wild taking pictures great evening will not be the last post ,

Thanks to all of you.

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Sad note the man i bough the car from isn't doing good he start selling his car cause of his cancer, found out he is now on hospice, I had spoken to him and told I was bringing the car he said no worries know it's going to a good home you enjoy it with your grandchildren, Well I been driving the Plymouth and passing on his history of the cars, also bought a 1927 Clrysler touring basket case, really enjoyed the experience and knowledge this man has, may God Bless Him will never forget him.

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1 minute ago, 51Baldeagle said:

Sad note the man i bough the car from isn't doing good he start selling his car cause of his cancer, found out he is now on hospice, I had spoken to him and told I was bringing the car he said no worries know it's going to a good home you enjoy it with your grandchildren, Well I been driving the Plymouth and passing on his history of the cars, also bought a 1927 Clrysler touring basket case, really enjoyed the experience and knowledge this man has, may God Bless Him will never forget him.

Sad note the man i bough the car from isn't doing good he start selling his car cause of his cancer, found out he is now on hospice, I had spoken to him and told I was bringing the car he said no worries know it's going to a good home you enjoy it with your grandchildren, Well I been driving the Plymouth and passing on his history of the cars, also bought a 1927 Clrysler touring basket case, really enjoyed the experience and knowledge this man has, may God Bless Him will never forget him.

Never stand I one place for to long,

the ants will eat you up.

Ruben P. Reyes. 

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
8 hours ago, 51Baldeagle said:

Hi guys back on the roll of things, I have a question about the title on the forum my comes out vertical instead of horizontal,  is there a setting I mess up?

 

This happens on my mobile (cell) phone (android) as well.

This new website for aaca.org seems to have an issue with either small screen resolutions or android mobile platforms.

Edited by maok
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  • 1 month later...

Man my grandchildren are having more fun then I,  whats the top speed on this four cylinder? I have a digital speedometer on my phone haven't pick it up more then 40 mph, I changed the plugs and wires man world of difference, need to work on speedometer, Thanks for your guys support. 

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Man my grandchildren are having more fun then I,  whats the top speed on this four cylinder? I have a digital speedometer on my phone haven't pick it up more then 40 mph, I changed the plugs and wires man world of difference, need to work on speedometer, Thanks for your guys support. 

 

Thanks Keiser 31 yes sir I don't want to chance it so I have kept below 40 mph, still running great and people really like it Thanks C Carl for the thumps up hoping to take it step at a time having fun with it.

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  • 1 month later...

Well i quit started this morning trying to figure out how to take off tire and drum with no results, try the adjusting screws on top 3-9 9-3 1/4 to 9  brake still stuck just found out there's a puller for it you screw to hub, i don't know if I want to pay $200. for it will find out tomorrow.

 

 

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Hello 51 , A few things I learned doing mine last year .

      A) that tool ,puller ,you show worked on one of the two rear wheels . The passenger side would not budge . I got the new tool you show 4 whacks later ,done . George makes them great . if you ask in Chrysler Forum some one may send you one for postage ,there are very nice people there  . Or if you have local club ,plus I have seen at swap meets originals for under 100 bucks . I am across states in Pa . and will offer use of mine . Take measurement of across threads . Should be 2-3/8"X 16 TPI  tapered . You will measure about 2.368 to 2.374 near back . Model T is different ,will not work !

      B )  Refer to Oct 15 2015 thread I have . WTK changing tire , artillery wheels . Explains a word of caution . 

                                                   good luck TOM

Edited by ArticiferTom
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