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1964 Buick Riviera fuel tank


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Hello to All, My name is Gian and I am new to this forum world! I am currently in the process of converting to an EFI system and would like to know if anyone knows of some companies or places that make reproduction fuel tanks for a 1964 Buick Riviera. I've seen a fuel tank for a 1964 Buick Skylark (A Body) that looks similar, but not sure of the Riviera fuel tank dimensions. The reason why I am looking for a new tank is because I want to install a fuel pump system and would like it to be new, but I am having an issue locating a fuel tank for my car. I hope someone out there can help me with my situation! Any suggestions appreciated! Thank you for your time.

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Another options if you are willing to do some fabrication is to use a TBI or LT1/L99 B-body tank with some fab. I put a 96 Impala SS tank in mine and while I notched the frame to clear, with some patience and care you could heat and deform the plastic tank just enough to fit (the interference is like 0.25-0.375in at worse and just at the forward corners). The filler neck attaches with a rubber hose so you could fab your own. The earlier TBI tanks are metal so you could just bash the corners with a hammer (or cut and weld) one to fit. Both are baffled best I know.

The only downsides are the fabrication of the tank hangers and depending on how much you care about it hanging down, you'd have to cut a hole in the trunk floor to clear the pump if you choose to put the rest of the tank up against the trunk floor. Fabricating the hangers for the straps (I used the B-body straps) is fairly easy. Mine is hung from a piece of angle iron with end plates welded on the end bolted to the frame and a pair of 1.5in stands bolted inside the rear cross member. I also cut a hole in the trunk floor so I could maintenance the pump without pulling the tank should I want to. The alternative would be to lower the mounts so the bumper end bolted right too the rear crossmember and fab spacers to keep the tank from bouncing up. I think that will also complicate the filler neck depending on how much you are willing to cut the rear crossmember up.

Final option is Rick's Tanks building you a custom unit but that is money and would not look like a factory piece.

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Thank you Sir! I need to invest in one of those manuals.

Mine is a reproduction that I got off of eBay. Most of it is common sense but the fluid levels and capacities make it worth the $$.. Better than that would be for you to 1) Buy a set of reprinted Chassis and Body manuals, and 2) Join the ROA. The resources available on-line and through their library are limitless.

Ed

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Nice! Right on for the pics. How do you like the conversion?
I like it for the most part, I need to finish up the trunk floor with a hinged access panel that goes to the rear axle kickup. Performance wise, I killed a fuel pump soon after I got it but who knows how old the one that came with the tank was. I've also not finished up mounting the gas filler neck so it just floats in the license plate opening for the time being.
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  • 1 year later...
On Thursday, February 12, 2015 at 7:55 AM, JZRIV said:

Welcome to the forum Gian.

Search function to the rescue

http://forums.aaca.org/f177/65-gas-tank-repair-replacement-240580.html

GM JZRIV,

I tried to go on the link you posted but I get an error reading. I tried several times and different days to no avail. I've had suggestions to take it to a radiator shop but if I'm going to go through the trouble of removing the tank, I'll just replace it all. I've got a line on a new sending unit and take up tubes, but no tank. Any help would be appreciated. 

Thanks,

Bob

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This from Peter, who explained what he used...

 

Just checked my notes...I bought the GM 34M with the filler neck. The OD dimensions are very similar to the original tank. The depth is virtually identical so it matched my goal of using the original fuel sender unit. It will require slightly bending the "ears" on the corners of the new tank to fit perfectly, but these corners already have a crease and are minor bends. Even the original Riv straps fit the new tank. Based upon my experience, here are a few tips that might help you:

First, get a radiator guy (perhaps a muffler guy) who is willing to do a little trial and error work...this will take some test fitting...in and out of the car...this is delicate welding because the metal is really thin. I can weld...but this was beyond my skill set. Be EXTREMELY careful in handling the old tank because it will have gas residue in it which makes it a virtual bomb if you get near it will a torch or MIG. A lift makes this job much easier, but I suppose can be done without.

Second, we cut the filler neck on the new tank...which is way to long to fit the Riv application about halfway down, bent the remaining half upwards slightly (about an inch which the neck can accept but be gentle), then welded the end (about 3 inches) of the old Riv filler onto the new tank. This combination of new filler neck, old filler neck end piece and mild bending creates the upward angle you'll need.

Third, the sender base on the new tank is incompatible with the Riv sender...so you'll need to cut the old base out of the old tank, cut the base out of the new tank, then weld the old base onto the new tank...sounds complicated but it's actually pretty easy.

Fourth, the welding will damage the galvanized protection on the metal and invite rust...so we applied some POR 15 gas tank liner paint to the inside of the tank around the weld points for the base using a gloved finger dipped in the pint then rubbed inside the lip of the base. Just a little goes a long way.

Finally, the new tank will have a few extra vent ports. I used only one, then plugged the extra ones with some fuel hose, a bolt and a hose clamp.

If you'd like to talk to me in greater detail...let me know and maybe we can get on the phone and actually talk like in the old days. PRL

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On Thursday, February 12, 2015 at 7:55 AM, JZRIV said:

Welcome to the forum Gian.

Search function to the rescue

http://forums.aaca.org/f177/65-gas-tank-repair-replacement-240580.html

GM JZRIV,

I tried to go on the link you posted but I get an error reading. I tried several times and different days to no avail. I've had suggestions to take it to a radiator shop but if I'm going to go through the trouble of removing the tank, I'll just replace it all. I've got a line on a new sending unit and take up tubes, but no tank. Any help would be appreciated. 

Thanks,

Bob

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16 minutes ago, Bill Stoneberg said:

Fourth, the welding will damage the galvanized protection on the metal and invite rust...so we applied some POR 15 gas tank liner paint to the inside of the tank around the weld points for the base using a gloved finger dipped in the pint then rubbed inside the lip of the base. Just a little goes a long way.

You mentioned this Eastwood product. I've toyed with idea of using this product. I still have to remove the tank to do this so I'm pondering your solution. Sounds like a lot of labor which means $, since I don't have any welding or metal work skill. Just medium mechanical skills. 

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1 hour ago, spraybob said:

GM JZRIV,

I tried to go on the link you posted but I get an error reading. I tried several times and different days to no avail. I've had suggestions to take it to a radiator shop but if I'm going to go through the trouble of removing the tank, I'll just replace it all. I've got a line on a new sending unit and take up tubes, but no tank. Any help would be appreciated. 

Thanks,

Bob

Well it used to work. try this

 

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I'm not so concerned about the capacity as I am about the dimensions for fit. Also, the location where the sending unit attaches. 

I've been comparing replacement photos  to my chassis manual drawings. I'm just glad my muffler is not located in the stock position. 

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1 hour ago, Seafoam65 said:

                  The 69 GTO tank fits perfectly and  the stock straps will work. All you have to do is cut a section out of the gas filler neck

to make it the proper length.

Do you have any knowledge that the Riviera sending unit will bolt in?

I see a gto tank at AM Auto Parts had a tank with a single vent. I'll have to check with the chassis manual if it's compatible. 

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                  You should be able to use the 69 GTO sending unit if your car is a 65 model. If it is older you will need to cut out   the   sender hole section of the tank and weld in the hole from your old tank. The 65 Riviera and 69 GTO use the same ohms on the sending unit. I believe the 63 and  64 are different on the ohms used. Another way you could do it if your car is a 63 or 64 is to remove the actual gauge

from the tube of your original sending unit and weld or solder it to the 69 GTO sender. I would think that would be fairly easy to do. The capacity on the 69 GTO tank is 20 gallons, just like the Riviera tank . Other than the length of the neck and the design of the sending unit hole, the early Riviera tank and 69 GTO tank are virtually identical. 

Edited by Seafoam65 (see edit history)
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10 minutes ago, spraybob said:

Thank you Rivnut for the info. I thought the venting had something to do with a/c or no a/c. Obviously I was mistaken.  I have a lot to digest.

A/C equipped cars have a fuel vapor return line, it's not a vent.  It runs from the fuel filter back to the tank.  It lies parallel to the fuel supply line but it's just a hair smaller.  It returns fuel/vapors to the tank through the sending unit.  It's part of a closed system.

 

The vent tube that loops over the filler spout is a vent that allows for air to enter the tank as fuel leaves the tank.  If that tank were not vented, a vacuum would form inside the tank as the fuel pump pulled gas from the tank.. Pretty soon the vacuum would be too strong for the fuel pump to overcome and you'd starve your engine for gas. A piece of fuel line the correct diameter and length can be cut to make this vent tube.

 

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  • 1 year later...
3 hours ago, John m loghry said:

When I fill my gas tank full it spills gas out the back when leaving a stop light. 64 Riviera. How can I repair this problem?

Most likely through a new fuel cap:

http://www.oldbuickparts.com/product_info.php?cPath=27_339_340&products_id=6552

 

Edited by SwedeDownUnderR63 (see edit history)
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