95Cardinal

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95Cardinal last won the day on August 5

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About 95Cardinal

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  • Birthday 07/11/1956

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  1. 95Cardinal

    1958 Caballero

    Thanks for the kind words, sebastienbuick & dei.
  2. 95Cardinal

    1958 Caballero

    Lots going on recently... Liftgate glass is IN! I was reluctant to tackle this myself, so I got help from the glass installer who installed the windshield. I was lucky enough to get a tinted liftgate glass panel from another Caballero owner (57BuickJim). His parts car had tinted glass and he agreed to swap it for my clear glass. Painted the wheel well trim to match the interior. Installing rear compartment load floor panels. This is the front edge of the rear load floor. There is a vinyl closeout panel that covers the floor pan from the middle of this part to the rear of the floor pan, under the rear seats. This part was created by using the crispy, original remnants that were in the car when it was disassembled. It got us close to what was required, but the patterns needed refinement. I used muslin material to develop and confirm the revised patterns. Time to cut & sew! I cut the vinyl pieces and used 2-sided tape to hold the hems down while sewing the hems. A hardboard reinforcement was sewn to the upper edge of the original panel. I incorporated a panel edge molding (sold for 1/4" wall panels) to provide a more defined, straight edge. The upper reinforcement is screwed to the waterfall, below the load floor. Then the vinyl is folded down and lays onto the waterfall and floor pan. The cutouts for the seat bottom stop brackets are made and this part is done. This is when I realized that I needed inboard stops for the split folding seat. This car originally had a full width second seat, requiring only 2 bottom stops. The split folding seat needs 4 stops. Two pieces of 1/8" flat stock and some bending and drilling yielded these little gems Installed & painted, ready for seat installation: First test fit of the carpet... The "B" pillar cover panels must be completed before I make the final cuts and install the carpet. Muslin test parts sewn to confirm patterns are correct. These were interesting panels to construct. There are hardboard panels behind each of the 3 curved surfaces. It all gets sewn together "inside out", then inverted into the "vinyl side out" orientation for installation into the body. Masked the pillar flanges and sprayed adhesive on the part and the flange edges, then applied the part to the pillar. The edges are pulled taut to the pinch weld flanges at the front and back pof the B pillar, then the painted steel retainer moldings are pressed over the flanges, trapping the vinyl in place. These turned out great!
  3. 95Cardinal

    1958 Caballero

    I agree! I add dedicated grounds to tail lights and other circuits on all my project cars. Been doing it for many years. My initiation into the joys of intermittent grounds was with a 1957 Corvette, back in the early '80s. On this car, I installed new sockets in the housings and I used the 3-wire style, with a dedicated ground wire. The grounds are being added to all the rear lights and are attached to the inner structure of the body, under the load floor. Thanks for the tip! Joe
  4. 95Cardinal

    1958 Caballero

    The tail light housings should be back from chrome plating soon, so it's time to get the sockets, pigtails and lenses ready. Here is one of the original tail light pigtail & socket assemblies and the new replacement. I removed the grommets from the original parts and installed them on the new pigtails I also had to replace the terminals and pigtails in the license lamp sockets. The rear bumper was removed without first disconnecting the license lamps from the body harness. All better! So many things to finish! Here, you can see the vinyl cover prepared for adhering to the driver's side kick panel. Sprayed contact adhesive on both parts, trimmed & wrapped the edges and used a rubber roller to apply enough pressure to set the adhesive bond. Here's the driver's side as installed: Passenger panel ready fpr bonding: Assembled with 2-part rivets and installed in the car: Months ago, I partially assembled the rear door trim panels. I recently installed the metal edgefold retainers and bonded the material around the perimeter. The panel did not fit properly; I had not noticed that the attaching "nails" were not all equidistant from the edge of the panel. There at least 3 different dimensions for the position of the nails from the edge of the panel. Compounding the problem...I used aftermarket repair parts to replace the missing nails; there are multiple versions of these parts as well. I removed the edgefold reinforcements and test-fit the panel again. Even without the nails, the base panel does not fit properly. Re-checking dimensions, I found the armrest was installed too low on the panel, driving the panel too high on the door when installed. Lesson learned: I had assembled the trim panel without installing the armrest attaching plate to the door inner panel. Dumb mistake...I know better. The "fix" will require re-working the armrest position and revising the perimeter cut lines to accommodate the various nail positions. I'm glad I found this before I made the same error on all 4 doors...
  5. Over the years, I have successfully used SEM Color Coat products to re-color cloth seats, carpets, vinyl door trim, dash pads and steering wheels. It will work on a cloth or vinyl headliner, but severe discoloration might "bleed through" after painting. If it's a yellow/brownish color, it's probably smoke/nicotine staining. I don't know if that can be covered up. If the staining is due to rodent urine, I wouldn't keep the headliner.
  6. 95Cardinal

    1958 Caballero

    The rest of the headliner installation went well; no broken panels, no cracked or broken retainers. I think it turned out great. I am SO glad this is done! One of the things I forgot to show previously is the "anti-rattle" felt pads I installed on the instrument panel, dash panel and windshield lower garnish moldings. These small pieces of adhesive-backed felt were applied to all the the metal-to-metal interfaces. The fender-mounted rear view mirrors are installed, too. These are the Buick Accessory mirrors; I think they are very cool. Next step is to install the quarter windows. After looking at the fit of the gasket to the inner quarter panel, it appears that the upper reveal molding retainers must be installed before the glass is installed. Here's the driver's side reveal molding in position. There are 2 separate moldings nested together and retained by a set of clips that go through both moldings and through mating holes in the upper sash. The clips have studs approximately 2 1/2" long which are retained to the vehicle with brass barrel nuts. I tried to fit the glass into the openings (with help!) 3 times...no luck. I asked the pro who installed the windshield and liftgate glass to give me some guidance. We tried to load the glass into the opening and he told me that the aftermarket gasket needs to be trimmed. Another project for another day...
  7. Ah yes, the joy of driving 60 year old cars!?
  8. 95Cardinal

    1958 Caballero

    These wagons were equipped with molded, perforated hardboard headliner panels. Pete Phillips (Buick Bugle Editor) had previously posted on the AACA forum about the difficulties he encountered when trying to install the reproduction panels. He used a steamer to soften the hardboard panels, but they still cracked. He also shared that the plastic retainers also fractured when he tried to install them, even though they had been softened with a lengthy exposure to hot, Texas sun. Based on Pete's experience, I asked around for ideas. Larry Schramm and another restorer friend of mine both recommended steaming the panels in a steam chamber to soften them before trying to install them. Here's the steam box I built. In the plastic bag are 57BuickJim's panels from one of his wagons; I planned to use them as patterns. I decided to use the steel retainers as patterns instead of risking any damage to Jim's parts. I used the retainers to make a pattern to pre-form the headliner panels. It's a piece of luaun underlayment, attached to a pair of 1X8 boards in the desired shape of the headliner panels. I didn't worry about making a form for each panel; I knew the parts would be "close enough" if I used an average shape. In this photo, you can see the relief slots I cut to enable bending the luaun to shape. I cut through 2 of the 3 payers of the underlayment so it would easily flex, then screwed the luaun to the 1x8s. Here's the form installed in the steam box. I lined the box with 6 mil plastic film and laid a sheet of plastic film between the pattern and the part being steamed. Lid on the box and steam nozzle inserted in the side of the box: If you look closely at the far corner of the box, close to the roll of blue paper towels, you can see steam wafting out from the lid. The steam generator is this little beauty: It is marketed as a weed killer! It will generate steam at about 300F and up to 65psi. It worked great to supply steam for the chamber. After a few minutes in the box, the panels were quite flexible. I loaded them into the car and help them in position until they dried, using a variety of implements. The crutches worked great! The soft pads helped protect the painted surface of the panels. I also used spring clamps and short pieces of the plastic retainer to keep things in place. After allowing the panels to dry completely, I proceeded to install the retainers. When I looked at the way the panels and retainers are installed, it appeared that the installation sequence had to begin at the windshield and progress to the rear of the car. To begin, I had to button up the dash and install the windshield garnish moldings and visor brackets. Before installing the upper dash panel, I finished up the wiring and added redundant grounds to the instrument panel and radio circuits. My previous experience has taught me that I can't rely on good ground connections through all the epoxy primers, powder coating and layers of paint on restored parts. I add terminal strips that connect the individual device or circuit grounds directly to the body or frame. In this case, the terminal strip is connecting the instrument cluster/gauges/dash lights/radio and antenna ground strap to one of the IP to firewall brace attachments, which was cleaned to provide a good metal-to-metal connection. New speaker mounted to the upper panel It took me a long time - an MANY tries - to install the upper panel to the IP carrier with an acceptable fit to the dash pad. This is one of the early trials: Getting close! Before installing the first (front) panel, the windshield reveal moldings must be installed. The reveal molding clips are attached to the body by studs that go through the windshield header. The attaching nuts are installed through clearance holes in the windshield header, above the headliner panel. Here are 3 of the reveal molding clips and the flange nuts that are used to retain the clips. You can see a little bit of black sealer on one of the nuts; that is how I kept the flange nuts from dropping off the nut driver and falling into the body structure. Here's a close look at one of the clearance holes with the nut installed on the clip stud; not a lot of room to work! Exterior moldings installed... The front headliner panel is retained at the front by the rear view mirror bracket, the windshield header garnish molding and the sun visor brackets. The sides of the panel are retained by the roof rail garnish moldings. The rear edge is retained by the snap-on plastic retainer. First step is to install the mirror support and the two upper header garnish moldings The upper, outboard corners are also supported by the A pillar garnish moldings. The garnish moldings are installed after the lower windshield base moldings. Between each of the headliner panels, there is a metal retainer onto which snaps a plastic retainer molding. I found new moldings from another Buick Club member; painted the back side to replicate the original appearance, and I am installing the first piece here: These parts are quite stiff and need to be heated to allow them to follow the roof contour without breaking. I have tried a home hair dryer and a heat gun to heat the plastic pieces. I found it too easy to overheat the part with the heat gun, so I will use the hair dryer on the remaining parts. Here, you can see the straight, plastic part hanging down from the headliner. Heating the part allowed me to shape it tightly to the roof, and then I had to trim it to the proper length to fit tightly into the end cap at the roof rail molding. Here's the passenger side of the completed installation. And a look at the driver's side, showing the end cap above the roof rail molding: Second panel is retained by the plastic retainer shared with the front panel, the roof rail moldings and another plastic retainer at the rear edge. This is the panel that will hold the dome light. Two panels down, 3 to go!
  9. 95Cardinal

    1958 Caballero

    Thanks! Hopefully you'll see it somewhere in our travels.
  10. We'll be at the Home2 Suites. Planning to have the Caballero in attendance!
  11. Beautiful work, Gary!!!
  12. 95Cardinal

    1958 Caballero

    Hopefully, it will be a long time before the kids have to deal with it! I plan to use it for this car and the next 2 cars that are waiting "on deck". The machine's co-owner also has 2 interiors to do. We'll keep it busy for a while!
  13. If you want to look at other options, Jim Hughes in Perrysburg, Ohio specializes in Dynaflow transmissions. I think he's been building them for over 25 years now. Phone: 419-874-2393 He did mine about 3 years ago. It cost me less than half what was quoted in post #8 above.
  14. 95Cardinal

    1958 Caballero

    Work continues on the rear door trim panels.... Test fitting the upper trim assembly. All the tan and beige vinyl components are mounted to a .030" thick hardboard foundation, which is then mounted to the main substrate panel. Mocked up in the car: Those wrinkles around the upper, front and rear edges are there because the perimeter vinyl hasn't been edgefolded to the main substrate yet. Satisfied with the progress on the right rear door, I started on the left rear. Then, mocked up quarter trim panels to verify the shape and the color split lines. This is what came in the car, so I had to do a lot of interpolation: I didn't like the loose appearance of the cover, so I kept fine-tuning the substrate and cover to improve the fit. More progress on the rear door trim. I pre-assembled the 2 bottom sections in preparation for sewing them to the main panel. I've been looking for an industrial sewing machine to be able to do more of my own trim work. 57BuickJim and I went in on this Singer 111W155 "walking foot" machine. It will sew stuff that my little home machine could only dream of! Pre-installed the lower trim to the door panel with staples that will be removed after sewing. Ready for edgefolding and moldings! With the sewing done, I installed the metal edging to the substrates. I had to stop all the sew lines short of the edges to allow for installation of the edging. I tied off the stitch lines to keep them from unraveling and handstitched the outermost inch of the trim so the edgefolded panels would have the correct appearance. I also had to replace several of the attaching "nails" where the originals were broken or missing. Turns out they are standard 1" ring shank nails! The steel edging gives a smooth appearance to the perimeter of the panel and also incorporates barbs to retain the vinyl as it is edgefolded around the back of the panel.
  15. 95Cardinal

    Kissel 1918 Sedanette

    Fantastic, Ron!