Bloo

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Everything posted by Bloo

  1. To each his own. I agree, people should drive the kind of cars they want to. I did not mean to suggest otherwise. The most reliable cars I have ever owned have been bone stock or nearly so. The engineers did what they could with what they had, but they were not idiots, and more often that not changes involve bolting on parts from the 1970s and 1980s, a time of notoriously unreliable cars. I do not consider that an improvement, but many people do. I hear that you can get parts while on the road. If I thought I was going to break down on the road, I would take a different car. On the day I brought the Pontiac home, 10 miles into the trip I stopped at a mini-mart for gas, and as I came back out I noticed a puddle of green under the car. It is true that if it were a small block Chevy, I probably could have bought a water pump and bolted it on right there. I did have tools with me, and there was an Oreilly a block away. As it was, I tightened my packing nut up a couple of notches and headed on up Stevens Pass. No more leaks. The real key to reliability is fixing things right, and sorting out the car. It is the same if the car is modified or stock. If I had a model A, a Mitchell Overdrive would be at the top of the list of potential modifications. All the best. :)
  2. Bloo

    What grease and fluids do you use?

    I use Texaco Marfak #2. This is just a good old fashioned chassis grease such as was used long ago. People were commonly cautioned not to mix grease, since chemical differences could cause unwanted results. This is the grease that was used in Texaco gas stations, and is probably pretty similar to what everyone else used (I guess). I suspect Marfak #2 is out of production. It may live on as Chevron Multifak #2. I have not been able to absolutely verify that it is the same grease, but I think it is. On parts that I have disassembled and cleaned completely out, I use Redline CV-2, a synthetic grease. Water pumps that have a Zerk need water pump grease. Penrite still makes it. In the US, Restoration Supply is a source for Penrite. A grease gun develops way too much pressure and can easily break some water pumps. Be careful.
  3. Bloo

    Failed Again! 1977 Seville

    High CO results from a mixture that is too rich. High HC is generally caused by a misfire of some kind, such as a lean misfire or an ignition problem (among otther things).
  4. Bloo

    Alternator Regultor Schematic

    This smacks of machosim, as you can just turn up the voltage regulator on a stock generator system, and you are going out of your way to use something that is not adjustable.... but that isn't what you asked ... The quick and dirty way to do this is to cut loose the "sense" connection on the alternator. There may already be a pin for this on the outside of the alternator. There was probably one on the alternator when it was a 12v negative ground unit. These are often unused on "one wire" type systems to the detriment of performance. Anyway, the idea is that the wire goes to the battery and then the regulator uses that to "set" the charging voltage, instead of using the voltage at the big post on the back of the alternator. Without this feature hooked up, whatever voltage is lost in the charging circuit (big wire) is lost, and the system undercharges by that amount, maybe a little maybe a lot. To get the system voltage up, you need to feed this "battery sense" wire a lower voltage. You could use a zener diode to do this, or you could string up some diodes. Silicon diodes have a constant voltage across the junction of about 0.7 volts. Shottky diodes are usually about 0.3 and can be bought lower. You may need a handful of both, as junction voltages vary. Some experementation will be necessary. Zener diodes can be bought in many voltages, and you might want a few of those too, as they typically have a 5% tolerance and may be worse at the low current they will be running at. If you go this route you should probably get 2 or 3 different voltages close to what you think you need. Note that you would connect a zener diode in the opposite direction that you would connect a string of diodes. One zener would be a cleaner solution, but you might have a tougher time hitting the right voltage. The voltage you need to hit is the difference between whatever the system voltage is now, and what you need it to be with the 8 volt battery, something a little over 2.1 volts I'm guessing. Note that 0.1v is a typical adjustment step in charging systems, and 0.2v is a whole bunch. You are going to have to nitpick this. A few tries may be necessary. Also be aware that typical regulators for street driven cars turn themselves up a couple tenths or more in the cold, and diode junctions are temperature sensitive as well, so always do your testing with the alternator about the same temperature. If you put it outside the alternator (assuming the correct terminal is available outside the alternator), connect from the battery (or large alternator terminal) through the diode to the sense terminal. If you try to put it on (or better yet inside) the alternator, you need to protect your diode or string thereof from vibration. Glue diodes and wires down to some sort of insulator with epoxy or electrical-safe stiff silicone, and attach the insulator inside very solidly. Diodes are at Newark.com, Mouser.com or Digi-Key.com. 1n4007 is a common cheap power supply silicon diode with a voltage drop of about 0.7. I don't know any schottky numbers right offhand. Zeners are sold by their voltage drop. Yes, its a kludge. it does work. Good luck.
  5. As a six volt guy I don't worry too much about buying electrical parts. I don't really need to do it often, I just scrape off the regulator points and reset the charging rate now and then. Maybe put in a set of brushes every 10 years. The local parts store wont have those brushes, but who knows if they will even still be in business by the time I need some?
  6. Bloo

    In honor of Father’s Day

    1938 Nash.
  7. Bloo

    Thanks for all the help

    Borg Warner, BWD and Standard/Bluestreak are all the some source these days (BWD).
  8. Bloo

    Torquing bolts/studs

    I always heard "tighten it until it strips, then just a little bit less". But seriously, torque specs are almost always for cleaned/chased oiled threads. If not, the book will specify, for instance bolts into a water jacket will have sealer on the threads instead of oil. If the threads were not clean and oiled, you could not know whether two of them would behave the same. There were tables in older books of torque specifications just based on the size and thread pitch of the bolt. I''ll bet thats in Dykes, for instance, but I can't remember for sure where I saw it. I suppose that would be the only resource for someone using a torque wrench before car manufacturers started publishing specs. Thats pretty much how it was done as far as I know. Sometimes you can look up a newer engine of the same engine family, and get the spec that way, if the bolts have remained the same size and pitch. If enough years have passed between what you are working on and what you got the spec from, it might pay to do a little less, as the earlier metallurgy may be not nearly as good.
  9. Bloo

    Why does my 1929 Cadillac ride so poorly?

    The "Graphite Grease" used on springs is not the sort of graphite grease you might encounter today, that has a little graphite in it as an additive. No, this stuff was almost more graphite than grease. Penrite still make it and Restoration Supply in California have it. From the 1936 Pontiac shop manual: "Graphite grease is No. 2 1/2 cup grease to which has been added 40% to 50% graphite by weight. G.M. Number 4529-M"
  10. Bloo

    Failed Again! 1977 Seville

    It doesn't have to smog anymore in WA. In WA you can just keep driving it broken until all that extra gas washes the rings out of your engine. It is pretty hard to screw up an Olds 350, but that might do it. I just don't remember issues getting one of these Bendix systems through smog. It had better fuel distribution than a carburetor. Like most cars, once I got it running right, I didn't need to worry too much about a tailpipe test.
  11. Bloo

    1935 Buick S40 torque specs

    Wrong or not, it has been "foot pounds" for automotive tools and manuals up here in the US for as long as anyone can remember. Maybe we were all reading it upside down..
  12. Bloo

    Failed Again! 1977 Seville

    WHAT?? I missed that. This issue seems to have a lot of threads. If they are higher flow, there's the problem.
  13. Bloo

    Failed Again! 1977 Seville

    THANK YOU. Finally, some actual documentation of the system.
  14. Bloo

    What Oil and What Coolant?

    There are things you can mix in the water to control the corrosion that are not antifreeze. Grimy had a good suggestion last time this came up of a product that worked fine in a car that foamed badly with ethylene glycol. I do not remember the name of the stuff. Frankly, anything that can freeze makes me really nervous.
  15. Bloo

    What Oil and What Coolant?

    I don't see any reason not to try it. I have a 50/50 mix in my 1936 Pontiac. We do need to worry about freezing where I live (central WA). The Pontiac has a packing nut type water pump and a non-pressurized radiator (like a model A Ford has). Some cars have issues with foaming. This one apparently doesn't. I got stuck behind some slower cars on a long uphill pull on a tour recently. It was hot that day. I just could not get enough air through the radiator. The coolant temperature hit 220 a couple of times. It never boiled. I was glad I wasn't running straight water. One caution, if it does boil over and goes everywhere it could screw up your paint.
  16. Bloo

    Failed Again! 1977 Seville

    If the smog equipment were completely missing on this car, it would STILL be too rich. Trying to cover up a richer than normal condition with AIR often just melts the catalytic converter. I hate to be so contrary, but I would expect the opposite, and a very small change, unless the failure was a leak (it often is) causing a misfire at idle, AND that reduced the vacuum enough that the MAP compensated with more fuel. Possible, but I doubt it in this case. EGR problems usually change the mixture WAY less than you would expect. Exhaust is mostly inert, and exhaust from EGR takes up space in the cylinder that would otherwise be occupied by air. The air is much more voluminous than the fuel. If you take the EGR away, that space will be occupied by air, leaning the mixture slightly, all else being equal. The part that will amaze you is how little difference. YES THIS^^^ A gas analyzer, preferably four or 5 gas is what is needed to troubleshoot stuff like this.
  17. Bloo

    Failed Again! 1977 Seville

    If Cadillac made this thing run too rich when it was new, I'll eat my hat. Yep, that DEFINITELY needs to be checked at this point. I cannot stress enough that it should be done the way the factory shop manual calls for, whatever that is. Also, if it has not been done, the vacuum hose needs to be pulled off of it and checked for fuel in the vacuum hose. If there is no fuel coming out of there, and it is safe to do so, the vacuum hose should be pulled off with the engine running. The reading on the fuel pressure gauge should jump up about 5 pounds. While I agree with pfloro that the pressure should be checked, my fear is that pressure will be out of spec by two pounds (just because cars often are), or five pounds off because someone did not check the fuel pressure the same way the factory said, and we will all assume we have found the problem, and it will fail again. If it passes the hose pull test (no fuel in the vacuum hose, pressure jumps up roughly 5 pounds when you pull the hose off), there is a 99 percent chance there is nothing wrong with the fuel regulator. Yes, I know 99 is not 100. If the spring was weak from age, the pressure would go down, not up. I have seen the fuel pressure go way up without leakage out the vacuum fitting, once. I suspect the spring broke and stacked up in some way that limited motion. IMHO you have a better chance of being struck by lightning than encountering that. I may have mentioned this before, but check the timing, and be sure you are using the factory method. Back in those days, methods for checking varied, sometimes with a vacuum hose on or off, sometimes there was an electrical connector that had to be disconnected, etc. etc. If the timing is wrong, the vacuum could be low. If the vacuum is low, the MAP (or VAC if thats what it is) would richen the mixture at less throttle than normal, causing a failure.
  18. Bloo

    Thanks for all the help

    Glad you got it sorted out!
  19. Bloo

    Gas and Oil

    I guess I'll have to wait and see what everybody else thinks about the premix idea for this car. It sure couldn't hurt an engine under any normal conditions.
  20. Bloo

    Whippet truck?

    Well, Fargo was a Chrysler product.
  21. Bloo

    Gas and Oil

    Was this a fresh overhaul just before getting parked? It sounds like someone fit the pistons too tight. Only 30 seconds of runtime is strange even for that. I don't know whether running it on premix in this particular case is a good idea or not. I have run car engines on premix and it works fine. I did it to an FE Ford just a few months ago. Some valves had stuck. I freed the valves up and washed the guides out, but wanted to be sure it wasn't going to happen again. By the way the cam won't get much oil just idling. 1800 or 2000 rpm might be better after a long sit.
  22. Bloo

    Overdrive Information 38 Buick...

    For the moment I am still looking for a differential case to finish up this 3.82. Yes, overdrive would have been a better solution.
  23. Bloo

    1972 Dodge Dart Wiring

    I might have caused that confusion by suggesting he investigate whether a 73 engine harness would work with the rest of a 72 harness. 73 would include electronic ignition wiring while 72 would not.
  24. Bloo

    Fuel Pump 1938 Century...

    What does the flange on the engine look like? Your post above mentions upside down. You may be miles ahead of me already, and probably are, but here goes anyway. The LAST picture in post 30 shows how both of those fuel pumps mount on an engine right side up, I think. In fact I am fairly sure. Notice the flanges are opposite! The fuel is obviously on top on the one on the left, but due to the little anti-hammer chamber on the bottom, I think the one on the right has the fuel on the bottom. It sounds like you have already tried mounting the pump all possible ways. I am really curious about that flange. Are you absolutely sure about the year of the engine? I seem to remember you getting it identified by the numbers in some other thread, but I am not sure. This must be really frustrating. Keep it up. You are getting close.