Beemon

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Everything posted by Beemon

  1. Original Delco Shock PN & Catalog Numbers

    Interesting video, though I would not want to weld the shock shut after filled with oil. Would much rather drain it, weld a jam nut to the side and plug it with a custom screw or brass plug or something. Supposedly all you need is 20W oil. And metallic blue paint of course.
  2. My 57 Buick special project

    If you ever get a chance to meet Bill Green, he's the hot rod guy of Kent. Really knowledgeable, will bend your ear about every shop in the area, including his. Gary Wickham of the NAPA in Kent off Central has also been a huge hook up of information and parts locally in the valley. Can't really speak much for Auburn other than the old boy that runs Carbs Unlimited is also another source of useful info regarding who's hot and who's not.
  3. My 57 Buick special project

    That's not what I've heard about Nailheads coming out of AAM. That's good, though. One less thing to worry about.
  4. My 57 Buick special project

    No hardened seats right?
  5. Front Fender Moulding Clips

    Thanks for the replies everyone. Guess and check is expensive, and generic bulk boxes are three to four times more expensive than buying what you need. I'm going to take it upon myself to document what exactly, at least a 2 door hard top needs so you can order the 50 or so clips and spend $40 versus $80 in generic sizes that may or may not work. My new years resolution this year is to paint the car and make it to Colorado so we will see how far I get. Lol
  6. I've been driving two years now with the front of my passenger side sweep spear in the closet and I'd like to put it back on. The only issue is that only 2 clips partially survived.. I checked the body service manual and it didn't seem to indicate which clips are used where and what size. Does anyone have some written information on this? I'd like to put my car back to 100% completion for my birthday. Thanks guys! Edit: I should have mentioned that I did a search beforehand and have saved the pictures of the different clips, but it seems no one has had this information on them from 2007 to 2015 so I thought I'd feel out to see if anyone actually has saved their invoices. Not looking for "just measure and buy them" responses but I'll probably get them anyways. EditEdit: I found this old picture I took of the 2 surviving trim pieces. One looks like it might be the generic 1" molding clip and the other looks almost like 1 3/4 inches. It looks like this and this. Feel kind of silly asking now, but maybe we can compile a database of trim clips? Seems to be a lot of questions on this subject with no answers.
  7. Original Delco Shock PN & Catalog Numbers

    I think the Pleasurizers have been gone over in General. Curious why you'd want the oil filled spiral shocks over the modern gas charged shocks? Wouldn't the oil have broken down and deteriorated from age by now? I still have my original oil shocks on the shelf, I could look when I go home Friday for a P/N, since I'm sure 57 would be pretty close to 56. Always planned on drilling a drain petcock/fill plug to replace the hydraulic oil at some point, but I feel like it would be pretty difficult, you would need a big magnet to keep metal shavings from clogging up the tiny orifices, and then pray you get them all out.
  8. I had an epiphany while visiting family this weekend. Modern cars use a crank position sensor and a cam position sensor to fire the coils. Not much has changed since 1956, the crank position sensor is the timing mark and the cam position sensor is the breaker points. Therefor, I've devised a rudimentary system for a coil pack system using archaic points based ignition. Applying the same basic principals of the ignition system of yesteryear, I devised this schematic below. My initial drawing has the breaker plate energized with the voltage on the resistor side, switching voltage to the coil. Now that I'm thinking about it, I could have each coil wired hot to the ballast resistor on the resistance side and then trigger the ground with the points, just like how it original was. Instead of spark plug wires, they would be lead wires to a terminal on the coil pack, where the coil pack is directly attached to the spark plug. Another method I thought of devising would be to mount the coils like an LS engine on the valve covers and then run the plug wires through the plug cover like original, but I feel the coils on the valve covers would look ugly. Plus, having the coil directly on the plug would reduce resistance in the high voltage circuit, reducing ignition losses. The main goal is to eliminate the points, cap and rotor permanently as they are becoming increasingly rare and costly - thus, this type of conversion not only updates the car, but makes components and modern. As it stands, the current setup still relies on the cap and rotor. The Pertronix hall effect kit, while it has never failed me unlike the Ignitor II kit (it was removed because I preferred the points ignition and felt the hall effect kit was causing issues - turns out my distributor was re-curved when re-bushed without my knowing) would be a perfect contender for a cam position sensor. 12V to the module and the negative wire goes to the cap center terminal. Coupled with a 7.5" mag wheel from the MSD Flying Magnet series would add an electronic crank position sensor, in which a junkyard ECU for a 5.3L LS engine could be substituted. Then the coil packs could be routed properly (perhaps wire loom can be salvaged?), connected to the Pertronix unit and the MSD unit. Advance weights and vacuum advance could also be eliminated, and a 3D printed and polished ABS cap could be put over the top of the distributor for a clean look. An alternator would be required for a stable voltage, eliminating voltage regulator and wiring directly to the battery. These additions, plus the custom ABS intake manifold I've been scheming, would give the modern look and reliability of a modern car. It would also be original and an interesting talking point, with only buyer's remorse to give you any heart ache. Anyways, thoughts?
  9. Okay, so maybe not so good looking Buick right now, but it's about time I stop flooding "Post War" with topics and start my own Me and My Buick thread. A little bit of history: The car was purchased brand new as one of two, by my grandfather, from the Kessler dealership in Detroit, in 1956. A few weeks prior, at some point whether returning or going to the army base, my grandfather rolled his 1953 Buick Roadmaster off an embankment and came out with nothing but his life. He needed new transportation, and with the aid of his then girlfriend at the time, placed an order for one Buick Century with all the bells and whistles save AC, power windows and power seats. I'm told that my grandmother rolled the car off the assembly line, but it seems all flair considering assembly line cars had a special stamp on the firewall ID tag. Before leaving service, he purchased for his mother a sister Century (Red and Black) that had every accessory option available. The two of them then set out west, back to Seattle, where the Red and Black Century was gifted to my great grandmother, and the Blue and White Century started a family in 1958. Fast forward to 1978, the last year licensed. My grandfather is driving around a 1971 Estate Wagon 455, while his oldest son and daughter (my mother) are bombing around in the 56 Century. A good 20+ years of pampered service got my uncle through 2 years of community college (I got free parking when I went because it still has, to this day, the Green River Community College parking pass on it). One fateful afternoon, sometime after three teeth broke off the reverse ring gear in the Dynaflow, the front pump became plugged up on a rather large upward climb. My grandfather, raising a family of 5, had fallen on hard times and the car sat in a lofty car port from that day on. Fast forward to the mid 80s, where my grandfather's youngest son was in auto tech class in highschool. With good intentions, but misguidance, tore the still running 322 apart. Upon inspection, worn rocker arms were found and a few broken valve springs, among other common wear parts for a 200,000 mile car. The heads, timing cover, sprockets, chain, lifters, rocker arms and valve covers were stored in the trunk/front/back seat, the intake and Rochester 4GC left down in the basement, and the bock left bare with pistons and all to the elements, shielded only by the roof over it's head and the lofty hood. The car quickly became a pipe dream and was left in shambles. In 2010, my grandmother passed away and was the first time I can remember the whole family being in one place. My uncle (oldest son) moved to Oklahoma, and my aunt (youngest daughter) moved to Colorado. It was an unfortunate time, and while on her death bed, the car had come up in front of my grandmother several times. After she died, the house was quickly deserted and the question of who got the car was left unanswered. No one wanted it because it had zero value and was too much work. At some point around this time, and being close to graduation, I had shown interest in the car. It was my favorite since I first found it 13 or so years prior (then 18 at the time of 2010), and I had started doing a lot of research. My mother had threatened to scrap it several times during this point to clean up and sell the house, and I had pooled every thing I could save between going to the college part time and barely making enough money to pay for the classes. My saving grace was my first few tax returns, and I had saved up enough money to have the engine sent out for rebuild in 2013. Another year passes and the next tax return was used to cover the transmission. In 2015, I had amassed enough parts to finally fire the old beast off, and she awoke with the fire of a thousand suns. Her slumber was over, and it was the first time I had witnessed my grandfather cry after the passing of my grandmother. The herd came flocking, everyone suddenly wanted the car, and we got in notarized writing that the car had been gifted to me and was put in my name after a state patrol inspection October of 2015. Lady Century's legacy was reborn. Of course, most of you all are up to date with what the car has gone through, in fact, we've both gone through a lot. The 322 powerplant is now out of a 1956 Buick Roadmaster, salvaged from an LS swap after my original engine had torn itself apart on the grounds of poor workmanship. The rear end, as I found out from my grandfather, didn't have the correct pinion pre-load, which allowed the pinion to hammer the carrier and prompted me to find a rear end from a Special. The power steering box and pump, after being rebuilt, are still sloppy and the pump itself was put together wrong, which resulted in the pulley tearing apart the end shaft - also a junkyard journey. My starter flew itself apart, and eventually so did the generator to an extent, which prompted me to find a junkyard replacement for the former and a re-manufactured replacement for a 1956 Chevy for the latter. I have also upgraded the brakes on the front to Roadmaster brakes and repaired the master cylinder myself. The suspension from front to back, save the front coil springs, A-arm bushings and king pins, have been replaced completely. I also replaced the original Rochester 4GC with a Carter WCFB. I even rebuilt the power antenna, rebuilt the tube radio, and repaired the clock, blower motor and cigarette lighter. This car is fully functional front to back, with front and rear speakers and all the fixings of a 1956 luxury sports car. All that's left to do now is paint, glass, chrome and interior - the hard stuff. This car will be following me on my exodus over Snoqualmie pass, where I will spend the next two years at Washington State University, fulfilling my degree in Mechanical Engineering. This thread will be the continuation of my experiences with my Buick as I journey forward. I hope you guys enjoy the ride!
  10. 58-65 45 fin front brake drums

    Can you measure the depth of the backing plate slot, too?
  11. 58-65 45 fin front brake drums

    The 45 fin drums do not interchange between 58-65, the 58-60 I believe have different backing plates and will not fit the later models. What is the application? If it's ball bearings in the hub, it's earlier application - if it's roller bearings in the hub, it's later application.
  12. Me and my beautiful 1956 Buick

    Balancer slipping issues as far as I know is only a problem on the 364 and up. This was after consulting with Nailhead experts, so take it as you will. Thanks for the info, though. How do you like it so far? Is that 18 degrees initial advance? Are you still running road draft tube? When I put the 57+ distributor in my 322, I had to remove the road draft tube to get the wires in the right spot. In hindsight, I could have just rotated it two slots and moved the wires appropriately, but eh.
  13. 1956 Buick Limo on CL

    My favorite part is the pink tinted windows.
  14. 1955 nailhead with ford trans adapter

    Even if it's useless, you should still try to blow it - for science, of course.
  15. 1955 nailhead with ford trans adapter

    Hey Matt, dare I ask what 4bbl came with that 56 engine? Make sure when you find a car to put it in, that you took the driver side single exhaust and stick it on the passenger side for some awesome tri-Y headers with no flapper valve.
  16. https://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/d/1960-buick-2-door/6398326151.html I know a lot of people have hearts for the 1960 Buicks. I don't know what it is, but it looks complete and it's only $1600. I would love to have this one, but not having any place to properly store my current Buick, I thought I'd pass it along.
  17. 1960 Buick 2 door Hardtop (NOT MINE)

    Hope that isn't for a long time! Don't know what I'd do without all your excellent posts on the forums here. They're some of the only ones that really make me think about what I just read.
  18. GIRLS ON BUICKS IV

    With age comes wisdom
  19. I might be a little confused, do you mean the gasket to the chassis of the radio or the foam that attaches the cone to the chassis of the speaker? Both were paper. Edit: Just realized you must mean the actual foam on the front of the radio chassis. Doh. You could probably just use weatherstrip adhesive. Mine was cracked and damaged, but still in one piece so I let it be when I rebuilt my radio, but I wouldn't hesitate to use a thick piece of weatherstrip.
  20. First Snow!

    It really is a shame the season ends on the 15th and my last final at WSU is on the 14th. Dad's been really bummed because I haven't been up yet, so I have to dedicate a few days. He's down in Grays Harbor in the Wishkah valley (more like a ridge). No snow yet this year, but they're expecting some heavy fall here soon. We used to bow hunt the Taneum Ridge and around Liberty back before I was going to school, and before his buddy moved into the Wishkah area. Beautiful country up there. I used to have a picture of the Martian rock, too, but can't seem to find it now.
  21. '54 Rear Speaker Switch Location?

    Your switch does not look too bad at all. Get a thin piece of emery cloth (I peel them off the dollar store nail filer bundles) and run them between the contact points. If memory serves me, the middle wire is hot from the radio speaker transformer and the outside wires are for each speaker? Looks like some nasty corrosion on there. Clean it up first and test it with a test light after attaching the center wire to something like 12V. I've rebuilt every switch on my 56 Buick by just lightly cleaning the junk off the contacts. It just needs a bit of love and a bit of cleaning.
  22. '54 Rear Speaker Switch Location?

    Do you have a RadioShack, Fry's Electronics or any other big electronic super store? Three-way potentiometers are not rare and look the same now as it does in your picture. Finding the right shaft for your knob might be tricky, but still very doable.
  23. The Last 1983 Buick Century

    How much for the duck?
  24. Pilgrim, that's why you get two - one for the UK and one for Cyprus!