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Everything posted by Beemon

  1. 1960 Buick 401 Black Carburator

    Huh, my WCFB looked the same when I first got it, but there was no indication of an exhaust leak at the base. How bad does your base look?
  2. 1956 Century - 25k miles on CL

    Century's are worth more than Specials, though. $31,000 more, I'm not sure, but they came factory with the 4-barrel engine. It's not the first non-Roadmaster I've seen with Bombersights before. I wouldn't mind getting a pair for mine, as well...
  3. 1960 Buick 401 Black Carburator

    Make sure you get the heat shield that goes under the carb, too. Its supposed to protect it from deteriorating. Heed Willie's words and plug the heat track. I daily mine in Seattle during the winter and have no issue with mine plugged.
  4. 1955 Roadmaster brake drums

    You also have to consider the surface that is used to seal around the lip of the backing plate. Depending on wear of the anchor points of the shoe, you'd want some play on both sides. 1/8" play on both sides of the shoe sounds ballpark to me.
  5. 1956 Buick Special hesitation issue

    I may need to recheck this, but I'm pretty sure it's 450RPM in gear. My grandpa always set the idle to 600RPM in park, which drops to around 450-500 in drive. Again, eye-balling or "winging it" on a vintage engine is not the best route to go. You really need to get the right tools to know what you're doing with that old engine. Get a $20 tach off Ebay and verify dwell, then get a timing light and verify 5 degrees on the balancer with the advance unhooked, then verify the advance works, then verify RPM. Get a vacuum gauge to dial in the carb idle with the tach in tandem and you will be set.
  6. Radio Capacitors

    Hey guys, just wanted to throw this out there because as far as I know these are new repros on the market. I bought the coil capacitor, generator capacitor and voltage regulator capacitor from Corvette Central, a pretty big Corvette parts dealer. I checked the capacitors for their true values and did a leak down test and all the capacitors are where they should be. Before, the original radio was struggling with popping because the over the counter .18-.23MFD ignition capacitors couldn't keep up. The OEM capacitor rankings are .3MFD for the coil and alternator and .5MFD for the voltage regulator. Crystal clear radio now! Good thing those Corvette guys are over the top, right?? They even have repro ignition ballast resistors (no fan resistors but I'm told they may be coming). Some of you guys might not care, but it sure made a difference for me. Enjoy!
  7. 1960 Buick 401 Black Carburator

    Are you backfiring? You mention loss of power, have you thrown a vacuum gauge on it yet?
  8. When you get to the wipers, look into Kent Jaquith of Clean Sweep Wiper Motor in Redmond, Oregon. I've had some ups and downs with my vacuum wipers, but they perform flawlessly when sealed properly. You just need to build up confidence! Driving on I5 and I405 in the rain through Seattle and Bellevue respectively has turned me into an unstoppable motorist. I've only hydroplaned maybe two times on the highway lol. The trick is to drive aggressively enough the people give you a wide berth because they don't want 4000lbs of steel coming through them... and have to pay insurance. maybe I'm just young and dumb... 🤔
  9. Speed signs are just a suggestion. It never hurts to have spares! Just be thankful you didn't take the Special.
  10. My 57 Buick special project

    Sorry to hear about that, you left that bit out on the Facebook group. Working and growing up in Kent, I know a couple of guys if you plan on setting up a hunting party... At least you made off with the steal of a life time for $200. Most people would settle for nothing less than $1000 for all 3. Does the engine turn over? If you're interested, I have a set of 401 rockers that are 1.6:1 lift versus your stock 1.5:1. I'll be home the weekend of the 27th. They're yours if you want'em.
  11. Autumn Buicks

    John, your Buicks are so photogenic! I finally have one to contribute:
  12. Today I went with a group down to the Snake River. Made it just in time for the sunset. The tire tracks in the gravel may or may not be me... Also is anyone looking for a 1949 Buick Special? Minimal surface rust, paint OK, restore or rod. $5000 OBO.
  13. Phun W/Nailheads

    Greg, did you ever find out if the 57 and 56 Dynaflow are the same size from bellhousing to tailshaft?
  14. Hub caps, port holes

    In what condition and how much?

    That red and white 56 Century with the Roadmaster bomber sights looks real clean. I think I'll be looking for some bomber sights after graduation (or before if they're inexpensive ). Thanks for the pictures, Lamar! I can't wait to go to one of these shows some day.
  16. 364 motor

    Find a late model aluminum alternator bracket off of a 401/425 and use the head bolts off the donor engine.
  17. For those of us that have had the pleasure of running a 4GC on our 56 Buicks, we all have a story to tell... hesitation, bog, etc. I was doing a bit of reading today in the Product Service Manual and apparently they've always had a bog, even new. The engineers at Buick outlined some tricks to help weed out these hesitation issues, which mostly have to do with shortening the pump shot of the accelerator pump. Might be old news to some, but thought I'd share. Coincidentally, and unexpectedly, there is no mention of making changes to the WCFB, the superior carburetor. I hope this helps some. I've always heard the 4GC was comparable in form and function to the WCFB, but it seems to not be the case here.
  18. Washer Pump Rebuild

    After doing some testing with the vacuum gauge, my switch is flawless (except when turned ti 'Wide', which is to be expected since it is a controlled vacuum leak to the top of the wiper motor), my wiper motor drops engine vacuum by 2"Hg (I am pretty sure the rear rubber control switch just needs to be re-lubed with some type of vaseline), but the washer jar has a drop of 5"Hg when not turned on, telling me there is a leak here. Vacuum lines are fine, no holes in them. So, does anyone have any experience with rebuilding the windshield washer pump with the vacuum coordinator? Kits are available, but from what I understand I need a rivet gun. Couldn't I use some really long machine screws? Also unrelated but my windshield squirters are plugged. I get fluid when both are removed, but nothing when on the car. Is there a surefire way to clean these out or is it impossible and should I just opt for some repros? Thanks guys.
  19. 53/56 322" in a 55 Super?

    The carb is a late 55 4GC.
  20. 56 Rochester 4GC: Trouble from the Start

    This is by observation, but they are almost identical aside from the fuel enrichment process. Basically, the WCFB uses two step up metering rods that are actuated by the throttle arm and the 4GC uses a single vacuum operated metering rod that falls down on a needle inside the enrichment jet at low vacuum (part/full throttle). The 4GC also uses lead plugs in the machine passages to seal them whereas the WCFB used what I think are rivets. In short, the lead is not friendly with ethanol and tend to leak and can potentially dislodge and fall out. I'm sure carb king and probably fill in more for you.
  21. Me and my beautiful 1956 Buick

    Thanks Matt, I figured as much. Here's hoping I can re-use them... lol. Willie was right, I should have just ripped that flapper valve out when I had the chance. Maybe this will give me the excuse to put my single exhaust manifold on in place of the flapper manifold (if the pipe lines up).
  22. Okay, so maybe not so good looking Buick right now, but it's about time I stop flooding "Post War" with topics and start my own Me and My Buick thread. A little bit of history: The car was purchased brand new as one of two, by my grandfather, from the Kessler dealership in Detroit, in 1956. A few weeks prior, at some point whether returning or going to the army base, my grandfather rolled his 1953 Buick Roadmaster off an embankment and came out with nothing but his life. He needed new transportation, and with the aid of his then girlfriend at the time, placed an order for one Buick Century with all the bells and whistles save AC, power windows and power seats. I'm told that my grandmother rolled the car off the assembly line, but it seems all flair considering assembly line cars had a special stamp on the firewall ID tag. Before leaving service, he purchased for his mother a sister Century (Red and Black) that had every accessory option available. The two of them then set out west, back to Seattle, where the Red and Black Century was gifted to my great grandmother, and the Blue and White Century started a family in 1958. Fast forward to 1978, the last year licensed. My grandfather is driving around a 1971 Estate Wagon 455, while his oldest son and daughter (my mother) are bombing around in the 56 Century. A good 20+ years of pampered service got my uncle through 2 years of community college (I got free parking when I went because it still has, to this day, the Green River Community College parking pass on it). One fateful afternoon, sometime after three teeth broke off the reverse ring gear in the Dynaflow, the front pump became plugged up on a rather large upward climb. My grandfather, raising a family of 5, had fallen on hard times and the car sat in a lofty car port from that day on. Fast forward to the mid 80s, where my grandfather's youngest son was in auto tech class in highschool. With good intentions, but misguidance, tore the still running 322 apart. Upon inspection, worn rocker arms were found and a few broken valve springs, among other common wear parts for a 200,000 mile car. The heads, timing cover, sprockets, chain, lifters, rocker arms and valve covers were stored in the trunk/front/back seat, the intake and Rochester 4GC left down in the basement, and the bock left bare with pistons and all to the elements, shielded only by the roof over it's head and the lofty hood. The car quickly became a pipe dream and was left in shambles. In 2010, my grandmother passed away and was the first time I can remember the whole family being in one place. My uncle (oldest son) moved to Oklahoma, and my aunt (youngest daughter) moved to Colorado. It was an unfortunate time, and while on her death bed, the car had come up in front of my grandmother several times. After she died, the house was quickly deserted and the question of who got the car was left unanswered. No one wanted it because it had zero value and was too much work. At some point around this time, and being close to graduation, I had shown interest in the car. It was my favorite since I first found it 13 or so years prior (then 18 at the time of 2010), and I had started doing a lot of research. My mother had threatened to scrap it several times during this point to clean up and sell the house, and I had pooled every thing I could save between going to the college part time and barely making enough money to pay for the classes. My saving grace was my first few tax returns, and I had saved up enough money to have the engine sent out for rebuild in 2013. Another year passes and the next tax return was used to cover the transmission. In 2015, I had amassed enough parts to finally fire the old beast off, and she awoke with the fire of a thousand suns. Her slumber was over, and it was the first time I had witnessed my grandfather cry after the passing of my grandmother. The herd came flocking, everyone suddenly wanted the car, and we got in notarized writing that the car had been gifted to me and was put in my name after a state patrol inspection October of 2015. Lady Century's legacy was reborn. Of course, most of you all are up to date with what the car has gone through, in fact, we've both gone through a lot. The 322 powerplant is now out of a 1956 Buick Roadmaster, salvaged from an LS swap after my original engine had torn itself apart on the grounds of poor workmanship. The rear end, as I found out from my grandfather, didn't have the correct pinion pre-load, which allowed the pinion to hammer the carrier and prompted me to find a rear end from a Special. The power steering box and pump, after being rebuilt, are still sloppy and the pump itself was put together wrong, which resulted in the pulley tearing apart the end shaft - also a junkyard journey. My starter flew itself apart, and eventually so did the generator to an extent, which prompted me to find a junkyard replacement for the former and a re-manufactured replacement for a 1956 Chevy for the latter. I have also upgraded the brakes on the front to Roadmaster brakes and repaired the master cylinder myself. The suspension from front to back, save the front coil springs, A-arm bushings and king pins, have been replaced completely. I also replaced the original Rochester 4GC with a Carter WCFB. I even rebuilt the power antenna, rebuilt the tube radio, and repaired the clock, blower motor and cigarette lighter. This car is fully functional front to back, with front and rear speakers and all the fixings of a 1956 luxury sports car. All that's left to do now is paint, glass, chrome and interior - the hard stuff. This car will be following me on my exodus over Snoqualmie pass, where I will spend the next two years at Washington State University, fulfilling my degree in Mechanical Engineering. This thread will be the continuation of my experiences with my Buick as I journey forward. I hope you guys enjoy the ride!
  23. Me and my beautiful 1956 Buick

    Right, they might seem loose because the flexed under heat - you want them to return to their natural resting point when they cool and re-torquing them will cause them to bend and possibly crack. Yeah I had used RTV on the first engine, and when we took it apart, there were obvious black charring around the edges where it didn't quite make a positive seal. I didn't remove the manifolds on this engine when I got it, but it's coming from the passenger side and when I got the engine, these bolts were loose. I don't know if the RTV will solve this issue, but I'd rather just throw those gaskets on and be done with it. I don't know what the head surface looks like yet. I think the issue with my first set was that they were off the block for 30 years. These ones don't seem to have been removed because they still have the French locks on them, but the bolts were loose on one side... That's another thing. On my first block, I used bolts and lock washers. On this engine, it has the French locks. Does it really matter which way you go? I figure with the French locks, you can re-use them and torque down without having to worry about the bolts coming loose from vibration. Also, is it going to behave like an intake manifold gasket where I can get away without using sealer or should I use some high temp RTV with the gaskets? Thanks guys.
  24. 1956 322 - Chirping Distributor

    Plus 1 to what Willie said. If they cap isn't centered squarely on the top of the distributor and the rotor makes contact with the pins, it def makes a chirp noise.
  25. Me and my beautiful 1956 Buick

    This last weekend I went to the first annual "Generations Collide" car show put on by the school's car club. At one point during the show, I was exhibiting the different stuff that was otherwise different on modern cars, and when I got to the choke heat stove flapper on the exhaust manifold... the thermostat spring was gone! Lol, I'm not sure exactly when and where it fell off, but I've been driving around with single exhaust for I don't know how long. I'm heading back home the weekend of Halloween, so I'll be doing a manifold swap. I also have an exhaust leak I can't seem to shake, so I'll be installing gaskets until I can have the manifolds planed. I've been told gaskets will crack the manifolds, but other makes and models ran cast iron manifolds for years with gaskets without problems... seems kind of like an old wives tale? The first year I had the car on the road I used the gaskets from the engine kit without issue, until I removed them because of some information I read on line. I understand the cast iron will flex and that being mated to the block restricts it from flexing vs a gasket surface.