Beemon

Members
  • Content count

    2,152
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    20

Everything posted by Beemon

  1. Resistor plugs will make the coil work harder since it has to build a bigger charge to arc across the electrode.
  2. Beemon

    1954 century sedan. GA to NC

    The fuel pump is a check valve, it cannot drain back as far as I can tell. You could try a check valve at the back of the carb, but if the float bowls are drained then it will still have to fill regardless. Next time you let it sit, before starting pull one of the sight plugs on the side of the carburetor off and check fuel level. If empty or low, keep a small turkey baster of fuel and squeeze it through the bowl vent hole to fill the bowls, or squirt some into the engine to get it running. I usually just let it crank the extra 10-20 seconds to re prime itself if my car has been sitting, but I usually never let it sit more than a day if I can help it.
  3. Beemon

    Modern a/c??

    Not entirely the case. A poorly designed pump at high RPM can cause the coolant to undergo cavitation at the impeller edge and cause the coolant to foam, which has an adverse effect on cooling and can lead to boiling over in some cases. This issue on modem cars is alleviated by overdrive transmissions on the highway and increased transmission efficiencies that create low RPM cruising, or electric fans that regulate the flow of the pump regardless of engine RPM. But for, say a nailhead engine, where you're spinning 3000 RPM going down the highway and your water pump is spinning faster with a load on the engine, and increase rpms on a long grade, it can lead to other issues including cavitation.
  4. Okay, so maybe not so good looking Buick right now, but it's about time I stop flooding "Post War" with topics and start my own Me and My Buick thread. A little bit of history: The car was purchased brand new as one of two, by my grandfather, from the Kessler dealership in Detroit, in 1956. A few weeks prior, at some point whether returning or going to the army base, my grandfather rolled his 1953 Buick Roadmaster off an embankment and came out with nothing but his life. He needed new transportation, and with the aid of his then girlfriend at the time, placed an order for one Buick Century with all the bells and whistles save AC, power windows and power seats. I'm told that my grandmother rolled the car off the assembly line, but it seems all flair considering assembly line cars had a special stamp on the firewall ID tag. Before leaving service, he purchased for his mother a sister Century (Red and Black) that had every accessory option available. The two of them then set out west, back to Seattle, where the Red and Black Century was gifted to my great grandmother, and the Blue and White Century started a family in 1958. Fast forward to 1978, the last year licensed. My grandfather is driving around a 1971 Estate Wagon 455, while his oldest son and daughter (my mother) are bombing around in the 56 Century. A good 20+ years of pampered service got my uncle through 2 years of community college (I got free parking when I went because it still has, to this day, the Green River Community College parking pass on it). One fateful afternoon, sometime after three teeth broke off the reverse ring gear in the Dynaflow, the front pump became plugged up on a rather large upward climb. My grandfather, raising a family of 5, had fallen on hard times and the car sat in a lofty car port from that day on. Fast forward to the mid 80s, where my grandfather's youngest son was in auto tech class in highschool. With good intentions, but misguidance, tore the still running 322 apart. Upon inspection, worn rocker arms were found and a few broken valve springs, among other common wear parts for a 200,000 mile car. The heads, timing cover, sprockets, chain, lifters, rocker arms and valve covers were stored in the trunk/front/back seat, the intake and Rochester 4GC left down in the basement, and the bock left bare with pistons and all to the elements, shielded only by the roof over it's head and the lofty hood. The car quickly became a pipe dream and was left in shambles. In 2010, my grandmother passed away and was the first time I can remember the whole family being in one place. My uncle (oldest son) moved to Oklahoma, and my aunt (youngest daughter) moved to Colorado. It was an unfortunate time, and while on her death bed, the car had come up in front of my grandmother several times. After she died, the house was quickly deserted and the question of who got the car was left unanswered. No one wanted it because it had zero value and was too much work. At some point around this time, and being close to graduation, I had shown interest in the car. It was my favorite since I first found it 13 or so years prior (then 18 at the time of 2010), and I had started doing a lot of research. My mother had threatened to scrap it several times during this point to clean up and sell the house, and I had pooled every thing I could save between going to the college part time and barely making enough money to pay for the classes. My saving grace was my first few tax returns, and I had saved up enough money to have the engine sent out for rebuild in 2013. Another year passes and the next tax return was used to cover the transmission. In 2015, I had amassed enough parts to finally fire the old beast off, and she awoke with the fire of a thousand suns. Her slumber was over, and it was the first time I had witnessed my grandfather cry after the passing of my grandmother. The herd came flocking, everyone suddenly wanted the car, and we got in notarized writing that the car had been gifted to me and was put in my name after a state patrol inspection October of 2015. Lady Century's legacy was reborn. Of course, most of you all are up to date with what the car has gone through, in fact, we've both gone through a lot. The 322 powerplant is now out of a 1956 Buick Roadmaster, salvaged from an LS swap after my original engine had torn itself apart on the grounds of poor workmanship. The rear end, as I found out from my grandfather, didn't have the correct pinion pre-load, which allowed the pinion to hammer the carrier and prompted me to find a rear end from a Special. The power steering box and pump, after being rebuilt, are still sloppy and the pump itself was put together wrong, which resulted in the pulley tearing apart the end shaft - also a junkyard journey. My starter flew itself apart, and eventually so did the generator to an extent, which prompted me to find a junkyard replacement for the former and a re-manufactured replacement for a 1956 Chevy for the latter. I have also upgraded the brakes on the front to Roadmaster brakes and repaired the master cylinder myself. The suspension from front to back, save the front coil springs, A-arm bushings and king pins, have been replaced completely. I also replaced the original Rochester 4GC with a Carter WCFB. I even rebuilt the power antenna, rebuilt the tube radio, and repaired the clock, blower motor and cigarette lighter. This car is fully functional front to back, with front and rear speakers and all the fixings of a 1956 luxury sports car. All that's left to do now is paint, glass, chrome and interior - the hard stuff. This car will be following me on my exodus over Snoqualmie pass, where I will spend the next two years at Washington State University, fulfilling my degree in Mechanical Engineering. This thread will be the continuation of my experiences with my Buick as I journey forward. I hope you guys enjoy the ride!
  5. Beemon

    Me and my beautiful 1956 Buick

    I went to go see dad this last weekend. He just bought a new 12 foot boat so he's been bass fishing non stop. To be fair he hasn't owned a boat in some time. Regardless, after we were finished we made some stainless trim retainers from .033 sheet metal and #10-24 screws, same as original. I did the cutting and dimensioning and he did the TIG welding. I only got two of the 11 original clips back, so now I'm set for when the car comes out of the booth.
  6. Beemon

    Modern a/c??

    Those old impellers are not very efficient for obvious reason, but they do a good enough job that no one really seems to mind or care. If it worked back then, it should work now, right? What thermostat do you run Ken?
  7. John, in your first photo it looks like there's a tiny red Triumph or MG. I recently found out my uncle has a 70 Spitfire, they seem to be interesting little cars, though I don't think I would feel comfortable being as tall as a sixteen wheeler's trailer tires. And rain? Pfft, come on guys.
  8. Beemon

    To resonate or not?

    They make turbo style resonators, too. If you're worried about flow, make sure the louvers are facing into the shell, not into the exhaust stream. Placement of the resonator is important, too, for noise cancellation. The closer to the engine the better, as the exhaust pulse begins to slow down as it nears the exhaust tip and doesn't disperse as much as when the exhaust flow is still mixing at the exhaust manifold. I made the mistake of sending my car to an exhaust shop that sold me on Magnaflow mufflers. They're cool at first, but after the honeymoon period, they are very annoying and very embarrassing, at least for a Buick in my opinion.
  9. Beemon

    1960 Buick Electra

    Thanks for this explanation. I've always wondered why my wing window cranks always screwed into the door card until I pulled out both wing windows recently and discovered there weren't any backing plates. Assuming 56 is similar to 60, now I know what to look for and what to do!
  10. Beemon

    Modern a/c??

    Coolant dwell time inside the block and radiator is very important for the heat exchange coefficient and that's usually controlled by the thermostat, not the water pump. Water to air convection is usually pretty rapid and the thermostat acts as a mass flow rate restrictor on the outlet side so your mass flow rate into the radiator is more or less constant. Increasing the speed through the thermostat can lead to cavitation losses but with a 13 psi cap, I would presume it to be minimal. There seems to be a lot of misconception about high flow water pumps, but the only thing it affects is the evacuation and fill time of the block, and internal circulation of the block before the thermostat opens. Cars came with different fans, different pumps because it was about application efficiency, maintaining bhp numbers and emissions. Modem cars use high flow pumps specifically, coupled with an electric fan and a stout alternator. Granted, all modern cars have A.C., as well, but they are designed to be high flow with cavitation loss. The inherent problem I see with a high flow water pump is increased fluid temperature due to increased volumetric flow at the cast iron boundary layer, resulting in increased friction. Cavitation in the block would be minimal due to increased heat at the boundary layer and lack of any real venturi effect on the water passages. The heat exchange coefficient is not constant and from the minimal testing I've done at the school (minimal as in controlled environments on a small scale) does indeed seem to be affected by volumetric flow rate. The cooling efficiency gets better the more turbulent the flow is, suggesting that the turbulent flow cycles the fluid at the boundary layer. And then, of course, the main benefit is that faster-moving fluid can remove hot water per rate of time faster. So thermostat and opening are the same, the radiator is the same, the block is the same. The only difference is a high flow versus low flow pump. Mass flow rate into the radiator is the same due to the restrictor. And as noted, water speed has a positive effect on the heat exchange coefficient. Water circulates faster, gets in and out faster, and due to the conservation of mass theorem, the mass flow rate in is the same as the mass flow rate out. You benefit from a hotter boundary layer that may or may not reduce cavitation risk while also using a pump that minimizes cavitation risk in the low-pressure region of the impeller. You can expect increased pump loss with faster-moving fluid but it can be minimized with the right impeller. Bernie, thanks for the read. It was a good refresher from my fluid dynamics course. I was a little bummed when they started comparing different pumps and their dynamics without displaying or recording impeller size and design. The impeller design is, of course, more critical than the size of the impeller. The Flowkooler pump (btw I don't own it, and I'm not endorsing the company just making an observation) seems to be designed well to limit cavitation at the impeller edge versus the stock 3 or 5 vanes simple impeller that was made with a hand mill or cast. With industry grade flow sim programs and a CNC machine, we can do much better than what was available back in the day. As an example, one could also compare ducted propellers with curved blades versus a standard propeller. Or, as I also like to build computers, cooling fans for computers that are vacuum formed plastic to contour the housing versus standard blade fans that put out more CFM at lower RPM. I have been wrong from time to time, especially when on paper doesn't match real life (such as drum brakes being more efficient than disc brakes when formulated on paper, but that is not the case in real life application), but I like to think I've got a pretty good grasp on fluid dynamics.
  11. Beemon

    56 Buick oil dipstick question

    The retainer should have some type of seal that fits on top of the block, and below it is expanded metal on the dipstick that is used to make a semi press fit in the bore to retain the dip stick. Hope this helps.
  12. Beemon

    Modern a/c??

    I know of the stock system, when you activate the AC not only does the bottom heater vent close and the top AC vent open, but it also pulls open the vent for recirculation as well. If I recall correctly, the large vent is not there or is but non-functional, and there's a smaller flapper vent in its place. Also, the heat issue can easily be remedied if you use aluminum heat shielded ducting on the fan side (like stuff you would find at Home Depot in the dryer section) versus the stock black canvas ducting. Sticks out like a sore thumb but works pretty good. Ken, thanks for the info! I have the HD clutch but I never hear it cycle and its always spinning at 50% fan speed. Good to know with AC, that standard clutch and 6 blades are keeping your nail cool. If you're looking to get rid of some of those 19-inch blades, I'm willing to help. What you could do is find a used aluminum timing cover or get a new TA performance cover and buy an over the counter AC pump from NAPA. That's the easiest way to upgrade, other than hunting down an original AC car and swapping water pumps. There's a company out there that makes a high flow water pump for the later nailhead. The pump is specifically designed to reduce cavitation while increasing flow. Increasing the flow can greatly help your cooling efficiency as it allows the engine to evacuate hotter coolant faster and move cooler coolant in quicker, while also helping with circulation through the block when the T-stat is closed. In regards to his brake kit, be careful what you pay for. Looks like the type of setup that sells you the master cylinder with disproportioned outlets and a proportioning block, which is usually what the salesmen will try to sell you without knowing really what they're talking about. Most all modern systems that use ABS have a distribution block with the solenoid where the master cylinder controls the proportioning through specific valving and orifice size (the primary line is usually always a bigger line than the second line). When you order the master cylinder, take a look at how the primary and secondary ports are sized and then look at the proportioning block. Most cars even when these systems were new didn't use a proportioning block and relied on the size of the brake line as well as the caliper/wheel cylinder volume to determine brake proportioning. And, as I should add, the original power brake system is fantastic. It's easy to maintain and is no more dangerous than a modern system, having experience brake failure in a dual portioned master cylinder, where I had zero brakes and relied solely on the parking brake. These new systems are meant to be replaced while the original one can easily be rebuilt without requiring an expensive sleeve job - and still be cheaper than a new system.
  13. Beemon

    Modern a/c??

    Ken, what clutch setup do you use? I have a 6 blade 18 inch hooked to a HD clutch out of a 68 Riviera. I've been eyeing this kit, too. Looks really good for the price point. He also makes a firewall mount master cylinder but I don't like it, you lose your washer jar. Some people may not care, but I do. It completes the engine bay. At least his A.C. kit looks stock. And he supplies a compressor mount for the engine so that eliminates the hardest part.
  14. I think that's correct for both windows. I pulled the bottom trim off my car just recently and as I understand it, 54 to 56 is supposed to be nearly the same procedure.
  15. Beemon

    Me and my beautiful 1956 Buick

    I tried to match the colors as best I could. It should look pretty close to the same if the paint chips are accurate. The tarp on top is for the lack of windows. I'm sure she's happy somewhere. I hope to bring the car by the gravesite when its put back together. Maybe I can get her to speak with the big man about keeping the temps below 80.
  16. Beemon

    Define types of vacuum hoses

    Wide angle vacuum hose is for Buicks with Cam-o-Matic wipers only and is supposed to change the angle of sweep from narrow and fast to wide and moderate speed. The corrugated hose was the vacuum on/off signal to the motor. The wide angle, corrugated, co-ordinator, washer control hose and discharge hoses are all the same size, I believe 1/8"? The rest if the system is all one size as well, I believe 1/4" hose. All hoses, except the corrugated hose, are readily available at any supply house that carries vacuum hose by the foot. If you find a supplier for the corrugated hose that isn't NOS, let us know.
  17. A rack and pinion steering removes all slop that is usually the result of a drag link as the components move through the steering arc. There's less to play with, too, i.e. the leveling of the steering rack and placement versus pitman arm and idler arm adjustments and playing with the drag link tension, and then of course working with a 50 year old gear box that can be rebuilt, but with worn parts usually. The most important factors are the elevation of the steering rack in regards to the steering knuckles and the steering knuckle geometry itself. The first one is pretty easy but the if the steering knuckles are not changed, then you get symptoms of understeer or over steer or binding issues and the like. I personally do not like drag link steering. I have been jaded by my 2002 Jeep's rack and pinion steering. This conversion is not a matter of bolt in new parts, but rather a complete redesign that requires lots of research and a good understanding of how your front suspension works. If you're serious, I would measure how far apart your two front backing plates are and then try and find a modern car with similar wheel spacing to compare geometry to.
  18. Beemon

    1956 Buick hood pads

    They are available from fusick, CARS and other Buick vendors.
  19. Beemon

    New Image upload size

    People who have beef with a non profit organization trying to save memory and money should look into donating terabyte hard drives to the server administrator and maybe donate some money for hosting fees.
  20. Beemon

    Dynaflow-equipped '53 Cad.

    I don't know, a hypoid ring and pinion gear usually run about $3000 or more if its a one run set.
  21. Beemon

    Dynaflow-equipped '53 Cad.

    Rear gears are getting harder to come by. I wonder how hard it would be to do the open driveline Dynaflow conversion to accept a more modern rear axle for those who wish to keep their shiftless drive?
  22. Beemon

    Me and my beautiful 1956 Buick

    Jeez, I don't think I want to remember! Haha GM white (it's an off-white cream color that matched the white) and metallic electric blue (color swatch matched the good blue spots). They're painting the door jams, hood jams, and trunk jams, on top of fixing the holes. Base and clear coat with a 5-year warranty for paint and work that is going to be done. I think that should cover me until I can afford to get the car to a restoration shop! And, warranties are always a good thing to have, too. And, for the price I paid, the guy said he would paint the interior window and door trim the same color as the exterior blue, so everything is going to match. Unfortunately, not pictured, and some bad news to me - there was a huge hole on the rear belt line on the passenger side. I guess this makes sense, the rear of the car was exposed to the elements in my grandfather's carport, and the passenger side especially since it was open on the side - the driver side was shielded by the house. It was about the thickness of the beltline trim around the window and measured about 2 inches long. They said they could fix it, so we'll see, but it rusted through two layers of spot welded sheet metal. The rest of the rear window was in pretty poor shape. Out of the 8 or so retaining clips on the back window trim, I only got two of them back. My father has a TIG machine and he was a Boeing welder for years before working for General Dynamics. We're going to make some replacement clips out of stainless. In fact, I will not be re-using any of the hardware that I pulled off this car. All non-critical fasteners will be stainless steel. This includes the window trim screws, nuts, and bolts. Stuff like the door latch, striker, and hardware that holds up the window regulators will still be steel, but I'm hoping to find some resistive zinc plated replacement stuff for these. Hopefully, it will save me some headache when I do this all again 30 years from now or something.
  23. Beemon

    Me and my beautiful 1956 Buick

    Okay, I got the front windshield trim off. The center piece for me was the keystone, so I had to get a thin flat head screw driver (think hobby set or those really really small electronics screwdriver kits) and pry up at the top of the center piece. Once it was off the top, then you just push down to snap it off. The passenger side trim came off with zero issue, the driver side needed a bit of persuasion with a rubber mallot on the end until it was about a half way off. Getting the wiper transmission trim off was pretty difficult because on the bottom of the cover it has this embossed ridge that runs right into the stainless grill set screw. It required some finnessing but I got both sides off without breaking anything. On to the back window!
  24. Okay guys I need some quick advice. Maybe I'm just not getting the manual but here's what I know: upper molding is removed with the glass, lower molding comes off before the glass is removed. Im stuck getting this bottom belt off and I want to get it off for the paint shop this Tuesday. I'm also at a loss for the rear window trim. Any help is greatly appreciated!
  25. Beemon

    Me and my beautiful 1956 Buick

    Thanks for the kind words, Doug. I think it will not only be good for me, but my grandpa as well who is equally excited. Although a 53 Roadmaster was his first car, the 56 was the first car he bought with my late grandmother and the car they started their family with. Coincidentally it will be the car I start my family with, too! Plus I can't wait for the patina comments to go away.