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Treozen

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  1. Thanks. At first, I was going to do white under the trim, in the traditional two-tone theme, but now that I see it, I'm thinking about leaving it as-is. Wire wheels are a pain, but I've got a set on three other cars, so....whats one more at this point 😉
  2. Ok - I'll add that to my list. I believe the carb may needs rebuilt. It was done 10 years ago with few miles since, but given gas sitting in there, probably needs redone. Yes, it does - so that's a great tip. Hopefully this is the cause, because it would be easy to resolve. I do use dielectric grease, yes, but who knows what the prior owner did - I'll use it when I change the wires /plugs. Yes- I also have the black soot. Plugs are in the plan of course, Autolite 85 is what I picked.
  3. Hello all- I have quite a bit of experience with the venerable small block Chevy, and even the Jaguar XK, but zip as it relates to the Buick 322. My car is a '55 special, but the engine was replaced with a 322 from a 1956, has a two-barrel carb, and.....there are pops and small backfires that occur, and become more frequent, as the engine warms up. By the time its been running for say 2 - 5 minutes, these exhaust pops are very frequent and start to impact running stability. The engine starts just fine - instantly actually, choke is non-functional, but open. Sounds great at first, then starts to pop, runs rich, popping becomes more frequent over time. The car has not been on the road for about 8 years, the engine was rebuilt in 2010. I plan to start with the usual suspects - plugs, wires, cap, rotor, new coil, check timing, check carburetor - points have been replaced with pertronix (which I like, and use in most everything I have). I haven't touched a thing yet, and don't expect that it should run smoothly without a little tinkering, but I wanted to check for any Buick-specific issues or likely causes, since I've not worked with a 322 before. It sounds to me like several plugs are firing, again, at the wrong time - crossfire style - or that its running so rich there's enough eat to ignite in the manifolds - tends to smooth out with some throttle, but not entirely. If this were a Chevy, I'd suspect plugs 5 and 7 were crossfiring, or creating an inductive charge. Sounds to me like more than one plug is being naughty. Thanks, Allan.
  4. LOL - Yes! I shaved them on my '57, and its a never ending pain to open the rear doors. The '57 is a post sedan though, so to get the look I needed to paint the posts and lose the rear handles - I was also 18 and stock was ....boring. If I were to go back in time, I'd leave her stock, but as a learning car, it was a great experience. She's going through a 2nd "refurbishment" right now - in that picture there, none of the seats are attached - I haven't actually figured out HOW to attach them yet, but I built a custom console...so they're going in somehow!
  5. Hello all - Thought I'd introduce myself, and my car! I recently bought a 1955 Buick Special - its a car I've always liked, but aside from a day back when I was around 18, I've never found the right car at the right time. Back when I was 18, and I had no cars, no car experience and no money, I was looking for a classic car (and why not, clearly "young, inexperienced and broke" is the perfect time to get a classic car). I had my heart set on a 1957 Chevy, but one day as I was driving home (in my '84 dodge omni) I saw this car by the side of the railway track. Unbeknown to me, it was a 1955 Buick. It was green and white, in need of restoration, but for sale. I liked everything about it, but I'd been told that sticking to plain ol' Chevy or Ford would be a wiser choice for me, and so I stuck to my original idea. In a week, she was gone, and that was the last '55 Buick I'd come across, until last week. Fast forward some decades, and somewhat randomly, this '55 Buick pops up on my feed, and even though the add was really old - as in 30-odd weeks - I followed up anyway, and it goes without saying, it was a good thing I did. My '55 isn't precisely stock in that the original 265 was replaced with a rebuilt 322 - what I believe would have been a 1956 Century engine. The Dynaflow was rebuilt, as was the rear end. Right now, she has some backfiring, running quite rich and the delivery driver ruined my radius rod, but, aside from those grumbles, she's in decent shape. Will need new tires though, and MAYBE....wires. I did eventually get my 1957 Chevy, when I was 18. Still have it today, still "under construction", the first car I ever bought with my own money and had in my own name. Both these 1950's cousins share their space with a handful of other cars, from Mustangs to E-Type Jaguars.
  6. Well, the good news is that the way my lift works, it has two 4-ft X 18" pads that sit between the front and rear wheels, and lift the car using rubber spacers between pad and car frame - so the rear wheels can be on the ground, or completely free with the rear end supported with jacks, and in either case, I can still get under to do the work. I have some tall jacks that I could use to cradle the rear end as well. It sounds like the key advice here is to not leave the rear end hanging free. Part update: Found two rods, both claim to be from a 1955 Buick special, I got pictures of one and the car its coming from - '55 special, so I ordered them both just to be sure, coming from different places.
  7. Thanks folks - I have a few feelers out and at least one of them reports having the right part, so that's good anyway. Another possibility reported that they did have some Radius Rods from the right age range, but that they were not marked when removed, and so they wanted to knwo the measurement of the bar - Does anyone have that? With mine being bent, there's no point measuring end to end or center to center, but if anyone happens to know the right measurement for the '55, that may open up another parts source. As for the bushings - I went ahead and ordered new ones, just because I figure the one in the bar I get will almost certainly be shot - either from use, or laying in a junk yard for years. Removal does look "easy" - my concern is that the rear end has been pulled to the right and so the left spring will be applying tension to the rod (in an attempt to realign itself), whcih I assume will make getting it off the pins / bolts a little challenging.
  8. Hello everyone - I just purchased a 1955 Buick Special, and upon delivery, the truck driver told me he had accidentally bent the rear sway bar, and that it just needed a little bend back - Not being familiar with the Buick rear end, I didn't think much of it until I got home and realized that the "sway bar" is actually the radius rod, and its bent so much that the entire rear end has shifted about two inches to the passenger side - I have about 1/4 inch between the tire and the frame on the driver's side, and several inches on the passenger. The way I figure it, the bend effectively make the radius rod "shorter" and so it pulled the rear end to the passenger side. The bend is a nice bow, I see no other damage, but obviously this needs corrected. I have some doubts about my ability to straighten a 1-inch steel bar, so I was wondering if anyone knows: 1) A source for a replacement radius rod (I checked ebay, no luck so far) 2) Any special issues in removing the radius rod? - looks like a bracket and nuts - appears simple, though I am sure the tension will make removal a challenge. 3) Any tips on attempting to straighten the existing one? - from some schematics, it looks as though the rod should be dead straight - right now it looks like an English long bow. Thanks, and appreciated, Allan.
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