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1931 833 Restoration


Tom M

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Ken,

I do have a 220 in the existing garage. When my father was still living (he was an electrician) he help me run the 220 out there before dry walling.

Any idea on cost to run a unit like that?

So what is your asking price if I may ask?

Rick,

Meant to ask you would you know what grit them fine sanding sponges are? Thanks

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Tom,

Today's your lucky day. Just pay for the shipping cost. The Dayton heater is brand new but the sheet metal on one cormer was slightly bent in shipping. It was a web based company I bought it from. They dropped shipped another one as a replacement for the damage one but didn't want this one back though it it easily fixed. All you need to do is fix the bent metal. You do need a dedicated 30A 220V circuit.

As far as operating cost, I don't know.

Let me know if you want it.

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Guest imported_Speedster

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Packin31</div><div class="ubbcode-body">what grit the fine sanding sponges are? </div></div>

Heck if I know! I don't think I've seen a specific grit listed, just course, medium and fine.

Here's Harbor-freight listing:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=46753

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Ken,

Let West have the second dibs. I will make do with my little portable heaters. But thank you very much for the first offer that was very nice and kind of you.

Speed,

I have some of them sponges and was just curious if you knew. They work great on our curving bodies smile.gif. But not sure if they are fine enough for final sanding.

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Guest imported_Speedster

If you're talking about final-sanding of primer before painting top-coats, then I think they would be okay, but not final-sanding of top-coat.

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Rick,

That is what I was wondering for the final block sanding of the primer. I found out the more you use them the less aggressive they are.

I have some of these Dura-Blocks but some are not flexible enough for the tight curves.

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Packin31</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ken,

Let West have the second dibs. I will make do with my little portable heaters. But thank you very much for the first offer that was very nice and kind of you.

</div></div>

Tom,

OK, I will pass the offer onto West. I can now finally stop tripping over the box in my garage laugh.gif

West,

PM your shipping address. After I send it, I'll let you know how much it cost to ship.

Ken

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Speedster</div><div class="ubbcode-body">And let us know how much your Electric-Bill went up? wink.giflaugh.gif </div></div>

It's not bad, but I wouldn't use it has a heater for all the time use. I use it it to heat up the garage when I work in it and then shut it off when I'm done. My garage being at the bottom of a 3 story house, keeps fairly mild at 50 when the outside temps are 32 and below so I don't have to raise the temp to high.

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  • 7 months later...

Been awhile since have have added any updates to my restoration thread so here we are I will be off for two weeks, one was a voluntary week off if you catch what I mean.

My plans for these two weeks are to spray a sealer coat of epoxy on the shell then hopefully if weather stays pleasant and warm spray some color. After that I am stuck on what to do next.

I have the fenders to do but really don't have the space in the garage to work on them. Other plan then is reinstalled the engine this way I can pulled old Bessie out on to the driveway so I can have more room in the garage to work on the fenders(Wish I can just push her out onto the driveway but it is just to step to do that).

Work on replacing the interior wood for cabin seat backs and truck compartment.

Decisions, decisions???? On what to do after getting body sprayed.....

Will follow of with some picture of my progress.

Take care all and have fun with your Packards smile.gif

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Something to wet your appetite. Since the shell was drying I figure I take a try at some buffing. This is the first time for me to use a machine for buffing. I am pretty impressed with the way it turned out. Have a few sand scratches left but nothing some 2000 can't take out.

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Ken,

Thanks for the encouraging words smile.gif

West,

I started with 1500 then went to 2000. I did post a question on a paint forum and the guys suggested I hit it with the wool pad again and see if it will take out the rest of the scratches before wetting sanding again. Will have to give it a try in a few days.

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Wow! That's starting out awfully fine. I would have recommended 600. Of course, on a curved panel such as your rumble lid, perhaps not. On flatter panels, though, you might want to start with a little more aggressive grit.

When a fine grit such as 1500 is used from the beginning, it tends to "follow" the orange peel, and what you end up with is shiny orange peel (I see that a lot on nicely restored cars). The more aggressive grit tends to do a better job of knocking down the peaks of the orange peel without "following" into the divots.

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Ken.

Your mount covers have pretty good curvature to them, so you wouldn't need to start off with an extremely aggressive grit. The compound curves tend to hide the orange peel, plus when the paint is applied, the paint tends flow a little better.

When making your decision on what to start with, the amount of paint you applied needs to be taken into consideration. If the orange peel is quite substantial, don't start with 1000 and see how it works before going to 600. Start with the 600 first. The main point is that you don't want the extra fine sandpapers to start polishing in and around all the little divots.

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Guest superods

Tom....Excellent job. West is correct. Regardless you always and i state again...always begin with 600. How long you stay with it depends on how well you laid out the paint. The best of painters all begin with 600...some use only a few strokes but that insures a level playing field for the remaining grits to achieve what you have Tom.

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: superods</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Regardless you always and i state again...The best of painters all begin with 600 </div></div>

I guess that's why I started off with 1000. I guess I paint with a lot less orange peel blush.gif

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Guest superods

Rick....paint it any color you want and send me the 25 bucks. Much rather have it brown...my choice would be a dark umber color...which would contrast the best with the color you are painting. I had the fellas in flordia that do the the wood graining mix me that color I speak of and am using it on my grille insert on the car ...the background piece behind the gauges ...the steering wheel and the e-brake lever...all the stuff that was that dull black. Want anyone opening the door of my 32 coupe to not comment ...but rather be wowed by what they see. Hell is it 2009 !!!! Lots has happened since 31 and 32 !!!

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Dave,

Thanks for the tip.

Here she is in Red Mahogany and Black. Went and hung the passenger door last night (Had issues with this door even before I started the restoration) where it rubs on the lower right of the door on the sill. Did the best I can to tweak it. Also the gaps aren't the best either on the door. Have some paint chip off on the hinges nothing that a little artist touch up brush can't fix wink.gif

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  • 1 month later...

Some updated photos after buffing.

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This one I used my air brushing skills.

08August_2009_06.jpg

Not really but I think I will print this one off full size and hang it in the garage

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Steve,

Thanks for that. Have had my up and downs on the painting side of things but over all I impressed with myself for how it has turn out for my first time at spraying.

If I ever do it again there are some things I have learned and that I would change before tackling another massive project like this.

Hopefully in a few weeks we (couple friends that were over on Saturday offered to help) will get the upper part of the engine reinstalled. I have it all laid out on the floor along one wall ready to go. :D

Will keep you all posted.

PS,

Steve bring it on over and and we will see what we can do for you. ;)

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Guest 49packard

Tom-I have a 47 Packard that needs paint-Is this your first time at painting a car? The reason I am asking is it out of the question for someone not knowing what he is doing to paint a car?

What suggestions/steps are involved?

David

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Tom-I have a 47 Packard that needs paint-Is this your first time at painting a car? The reason I am asking is it out of the question for someone not knowing what he is doing to paint a car?

What suggestions/steps are involved?

David

Hi Dave,

This was my first time and experience at a full restoration on my own. I did spray an old El Comino years ago but I would not consider what I did to that car as spraying compared to what I have done with the Packard.

It is never out of the question if you are willing to take the time to read up on it and ask questions. The net is a wonderful place for all you want to learn.

Suggestion and Steps involved? That all depends on what shape your car is in to start with. If you look back at some of my posts my car was rusted out in a FEW areas. For that I had found a fabricator (by word of mouth) and had him do the metal work me. From there on out I did the rest. Some putty work (Shh!!!) was needed in some areas. Once the putty work was to the best of my skills I probably sprayed 4-6 coats of High Build primer. Which naturally ends up on the floor from all the guide coating and blocking that you do.

Once satisfied with my blocking I sprayed a few coats of epoxy wet sanded and dry sanded with 400 and then went on the Single Stage paint. Everyone has their own opinions on SS paint versus BC/CC. But single stage work the best for me for the conditions I had to work in.

My friends were impressed when they stop over on Saturday. There are some flaws here and there but overall not bad for my first time.

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Spent all day yesterday reinstalling some new and some of the original wood for the interior.

In the forth picture you can see some of the original wood. The one with the 468-503 is an original marking. I left that one unpainted when I went and sprayed the rest of the wood with some truck bed coating.

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This really shows what the home restorer can do if they are willing to take the time to learn; and take the considerable time to do (and do over, in many cases.)

Love this thread, reminds me of the ametuer restorations that were going on (around a half dozen or so) in the mid-late 70s in the town where I grew up; some of these guys turned out some really nice cars. It seems like few are able or willing to take the time to do their own restoration anymore, myself included. I probably won't do another one until I retire.

Tom, for some the project is the fun part - do you think you will do another or spend some time driving this one upon completion??

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Steve,

Thanks for the complements. It sure makes one feel proud.

I would love to do another one. But as you know how life goes. So this one will be probably be my only one. Unless my wife will let me do a old farm truck for her. See see likes them old stake bed trucks.

Old Bessie here is a keeper. My goal for this car was to do the best that I could with what I have at hand and turn her into a nice driver. Plus that is what my Great Uncle and Father would of wanted anyways.

I still remember the days My Great Uncle would take us out for rides around Marquette Park. We would trade off riding up front with him and in the rumble seat. Them were some great times.

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  • 2 months later...

My younger brother came over on Monday and we reinstalled the cylinder block and pistons. He also came back on Tuesday but before we did any work on Old Bessie we replaced the front hubs and front brakes on his Dakota Sport.

After working on his truck we cleaned up the head for Old Bessie and reinstalled it. We put some old acorn nuts back on and put a fresh coat of Hirches green paint. It is not my best but it will make do.

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  • 2 months later...

I picked up the Dashboard and other parts from the shop the other day. This is the same shop that did all the metal work for me. He did not do the wood-graining he has a lady that does it for him and it is all done by hand.

Here are a few pictures of the dash. Not the best lighting but can see her work. I very please with them and amazed the talent people have when it come to that kind of work.

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Edited by Packin31 (see edit history)
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Owen,

As a newbie to Packard in '96 when I inherited the car I took a few pieces off the engine and had them plated. See it was the old muscle car mentality that I had I guess :) You know chrome for show :)

I know now it is not correct but for now they will stay. When and if I ever decide to put it in a Packard or AACA show I can take them off and paint them the correct colors.

Hopefully she will be running by this summer.

Edited by Packin31 (see edit history)
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