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1931 833 Restoration


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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The colors I have trouble with are some Greens and Browns look the same to me, lite Pink looks white to me and some Shades of Red. </div></div>

Okay, That's not too bad, I've heard of people that only see black & white. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />

It's real strange about Green for a car color, I think it looks Great on a car built before '35 but not on one built after that. I guess my brain just builds certain expectations. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

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Rick,

Remember the talk we have about what should be silver, black etc. Here is a partial picture of the engine of the Green Car one I posted above. The rocker cover is silver. Well looks like I need to strip the green off mine. O well it needed to be repainted anyways.

post-31137-143137891435_thumb.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

I would prefer to buy 2 or 3 cans of the Rustoleum instead of one can of the Aluma-blast. I used the Aluma-blast on the 1502s engine about 5 years ago and I used Rustoleum on the 626 about 7 years ago and both still look good. If I was doing a Pebblebeach class car I would probably go with the Aluma-blast but If you're doing a car to 'Impress the Girls' the Rustoleum is the best. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" /> Cause the Rustoleum silver gives it 'More Eye Pop'. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

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Yes, I grind and sand any sharp edges or bad spots at casting seams, etc. but I don't sand the surface completely smooth, cause it wasn't originally. The engines that have paint real smooth, like body paint, look pretty But Don't look Original. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> I call it 'Customizing' when they do Glaze finishes on engine parts or transmissions. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

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  • 6 months later...

Tip for removal of WD40

Try cup of water

Cup of alcohol

1/4 cup of ammonia (optional if you have)

Wipe on and whip off with a different rag.

I could not find any alcohol at Menard's yesterday but they did have ammonia. So yesterday I spent a good portion of the day with bucket of very hot water and a few cups of the ammonia, wash met and some old rags for drying. It sure was a workout but it worked out really well.

Today I pulled out the DA and went to town sanding a panel at a time and then did each panel with metal ready because it was flash rusting on me. I know before I do any epoxy priming I will need to DA each panel again wipe it down with some lacquer thinner and then some wax/grease remover. Tack it and I should be good to go spraying the epoxy. RIGHT?????

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Tip for removal of WD40

Try cup of water

Cup of alcohol

1/4 cup of ammonia (optional if you have)

Wipe on and whip off with a different rag.

I could not find any alcohol at Menard's yesterday but they did have ammonia. So yesterday I spent a good portion of the day with bucket of very hot water and a few cups of the ammonia, wash met and some old rags for drying. It sure was a workout but it worked out really well.

Today I pulled out the DA and went to town sanding a panel at a time and then did each panel with metal ready because it was flash rusting on me. I know before I do any epoxy priming I will need to DA each panel again wipe it down with some lacquer thinner and then some wax/grease remover. Tack it and I should be good to go spraying the epoxy. RIGHT????? </div></div>

That's what I would do but I'm no expert.

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Yes I feel some progress. But I still need to have my friend come over with his engine hoist to help me yank the rest of the engine. Unless there is a Packard Buddy or an AACA buddy in the Chicago area willing to help me out?

I have some cold ones in the fridge and can through a few dogs on the grill afterwards. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

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  • 3 weeks later...

The other night I got a little dipper into my project. My brother in-law dropped off his engine hoist on Monday. Tuesday night I put it together and pulled the rest of the engine out (all by myself (my friends have left me hanging)) per suggestion here and from my friends.

Is there anyone with an empty trailer heading east from Chicago to pick up their next project that can deliver my engine to Cecil, Ohio if not I will just have to ship it?

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  • 2 weeks later...

O I have Ommmmmmmmmmmmm and a few Zzz?s a couple of nights out in the garage with her. You know when your laying on your back working on them and it is late sometimes you just happen to play shut eye. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" />

The weather is finally getting decent here were I can at least get some epoxy down on the body and get the frame painted. Then I can show the wife see I am moving forward. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

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I was informed about this site uship.com where you place a item you need shipped and you get bids. I placed an add I needed my engine shipped to Hart Machine Service I received a few bids back but the best one was for only $130. That is $150 savings from when I had the upper half of the engine shipped back from Harts to the body shop which then I had to go pick up. This pickup will be at my house. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

<span style="font-style: italic">Engine was picked up this morning at 8:30 and should be at Harts this afternoon. Yes one less thing to trip over for now <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /></span>

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have the frame all painted up and the firewall but I need to sand and repaint the firewall due to my spray gun acting up causing some runs and spitting up.

Was starting to reassemble rear brake levers etc. but needed to come in to take a look at some of the pictures I took before disassembly. Thank goodness for digital cameras.

post-31137-143137891443_thumb.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

When I jacked the body up off the frame in the back between the body and the frame (near the body bolt) there was this material that reminded me of tar paper/shingles.

Was this original or was it added by someone? If original can I just go with tar paper again or ????

<span style="font-style: italic">Was the purpose of this material so you wouldn't have metal to metal contact and was is it also to control the noise of metal to metal? </span>

post-31137-143137891444_thumb.jpg

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Went out to home store bought some paint stripper and went to town stripping the firewall Friday and Saturday. This morning I did the final sanding and cleaning with some W&G Remover. Then proceeded to spray for the first time with some SPI white epoxy primer. This stuff sprayed very well. On on I go getting closer to the day of dropping engine back in. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

post-31137-143137891445_thumb.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

The hinge on my bonnet seemed to be plated at one time but then it was painted over. I have seen pictures of some cars and at shows where the hinge is chromed and painted.

Is this a personal preference? Painted or plated?

If I go plated that means I would have to drill out all of the rivets. Where can one purchase these rivets and the tool to install them?

Thanks

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  • 3 weeks later...

I am in the Chicago area and could help you out some time with that grunt work on your car. If you still need help?? I am kind of stuck out this way until we sell the house that we have out in Galina,IL. I have a apartment in Clarendon Hills,IL that I stay at during my work week. So I have some free time to spare. The place that I am at, I can't have one of my old cars out this way. I have a 1930 Jordan (have had the Jordan for 6 years) and a 1953 Plymouth (have had the Ply for 15 years). That I restore and repare my self. The Plymouth is a every day car for me. I am re-painting it and doing some other repares to it. I just sold my 1953 Packard carib. So I kind of know my way around the real old cars. I am a Steam Engineer by trade, and work at a local Hospital. So if you could use my help just let me know. my e-mail is plyjordan1930@yahoo.com Good luck with the car.

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Hi Rob,

Thanks for the offering to giving me a had. Any kind of help is always needed. Advice or just some friendly chat one day looking over the car etc. Let me know if you like to swing by one day to see where I am at.

Most of the grunt work (dirty) work is done. I am at the point of priming the body and hopefully soon getting the firewall ready for paint so I can drop the lower half of the engine back in the car. It is getting old tripping over it sitting on the garage floor smile.gif

Well most run that time of year grad party to go to. frown.gif Rather be in garage working on car.

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  • 2 months later...

Ken,

It has been a slow process but I am sure glad my one younger brother came over last week to help me out. We got the lower half of the engine reinstalled no more tripping over it. Don't I wish only 4 weeks from finishing. I am just glad we got her all primed because winter will be settling in here soon and I did not want the car sitting through another winter with bare steel.

In the first picture I posted above you can see a hole next to the window. Someone at one time took a pot shot at her. My brother asked if I was going to fill it in I said yes but he thought that it would be a good conversation piece to leave it unfilled. smile.gif You know say something like Al Capone own the car at one point. laugh.gif My father did say that to some kids one day when he was living at Grandmas in Chicago while he was working in the garage one day.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I just got in from HB priming the rumble seat lid, the top part of the hood, golf door and cowl vent. Was going to do doors also but ran out of primer. Time to order some more.

I have a question to anyone that does this for a living how much primer, paint is used in painting a car like mine?

I have gone through a 1 3/4 gallon epoxy primer and 1 gallon of HB primer. The HB build was just the doors, two top pieces of the hood, rumble seat lid, golf door and cowl vent. Not all pieces have had the final HB on them either.

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  • 5 months later...

Never used cup liners. Do they really save you clean up time? I did buy a gun cleaning kit last weekend after I discovered that the reason for my gun not spraying correctly was a dirty gun. Re-sprayed the sidemount covers tonight and they came out great.

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Ken,

I have not use the liners myself yet but am willing to give them a try. I read (like you said) they are supposed to save on time and cleanup (less waste of lacquer thinner or what ever you use for cleaning your guns). Will see

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I found that the liners help save a little acetone during cleanup, but not much, and they can also be a botheration.

The liners don't save any time, since it's the gun-nozzle that takes the most time to clean, not the cup.

So I prefer to spend the money on more acetone, not the liners.

BTW, I used about 5 gallons of epoxy primer on the 645, including frame, wheels, suspension, etc. Since it's a high viscosity paint, it takes a Lot.

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Rick,

Thanks for your input. I didn't buy the big pak because to me they don’t look any different then ordinary zip lock bags. Are they special ones for paint if not my wife can get me heavier mil ones from where she works?

What spray gun do you own Rick.

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I got the liners at a paint store and they are made different, with rounded bottom, no corners like a ziplock has. I used them in my older suction-feed guns not my new gravity-feed guns.

The guns I recently got from Harbor-freight are very good. I have 3, one for primer, one for dark colors and one for light colors. Works out Great that way. I only paid about $50. for all 3.

Here's a link to them. They can be purchased at a lower price, if ordered thru their sales-catalog, tho:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91009

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Rick,

I have that one and this one

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=43430

The first one has gone to the waste side. It started to spit the paint out as we where spraying so luckly I had the other one on hand. The second one sprays much better even before the first one crapped out.

This is what I got for my B-day gift

DEVGFG670 $???.00 1 DeVilbiss Plus Spray Gun Kit with cleaning kit & lube and oil - Free Shipping no 2nd day air

SHP6710 $50.60 1 AIR FILTER 606 120CFM

omx70k10 special $8.95 1 10 pack Liners ONLY WITH purchase of GFG670 Gun

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Sorry, I just noticed the link I posted was to a High pressure gun not the better HVLP.

Yes, when ordering it's necessary to match the gun to the air-pressure available from your compressor. The low pressure guns can be used with any compressor tho. The HVLP type are what I have.

I think the nozzle-assembly is the only difference in the 2 tho.

And having an air regulator on the gun is handy also, if you will be using different length hoses and are not sure what pressure will be at the gun. Since pressure at the gun will drop when the trigger is pulled. The gauge on that regulator will let you know how much pressure is really there, since the pressure at gun is never as much as measured at the output of compressor.

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  • Tom M changed the title to 1931 833 Restoration

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