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1931 833 Restoration


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Since Rick?s '29 project thread is growing I needed to keep mine up to speed with his. Here is a picture of some parts I sprayed with POR15.

The sills are painted and installed. I am trying to get her ready to go to body man for metal work later this month or early next. This body man is doing a car now (a Stutz) that is going to Pebble Beach this month.

post-31137-143137891417_thumb.jpg

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K8096,

I am not really sure. I think it is somewhere in the 1930?s range. It is a two door convertible, light blue in color and it had a beautiful looking engine.

Rick,

This is my first restoration (an armature at best) so I don?t think my car would fit in with the Pebble Beach Crowd.

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Tom and anyone else that has a Coupe or Roadster,

Does one of the bolts that attaches the base of the rumbleseat Hinge to floor, go thru frame-rail, or is it only bolted to the wood floor planks, at bottom? (I realize it also attaches at top and one bolt thru wheel-tub.)

There are 3 holes in hinge bases, that I have (which came from another car), and center one is larger size (same size as holes in frame for attaching body), so I was wondering if is supposed to be attached to frame-rail thru that hole?

How many holes in hinge base are used on your car? Thanks,

If it is supposed to be bolted to frame, the hinges I have don't match up to the holes in frame, so I'm confused? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

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Rick,

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">There are 3 holes in hinge bases, that I have (which came from another car), and center one is larger size (same size as holes in frame for attaching body), so I was wondering if is supposed to be attached to frame-rail thru that hole?</div></div> Yes. I just replaced these bolts. I think they were 5"-6" long

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How many holes in hinge base are used on your car?

</div></div> I think there is only ONE hole. The base I believe is welded to this metal piece that goes over the frame rail. I do have some pictures of it at home. I can post them later tonight or tomorrow if you like.

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Rick,

I take back the one hole answer. I just took a look at them and there are THREE HOLES. There is some sort of nut, bolt or something left there on mine. It is pretty rusty in that area on my car so I didn't notice them before. Sorry for leading you down the wrong path. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />

Picture added (Right Side)

post-31137-143137891418_thumb.jpg

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Rick,

In the second picture you can see a strip of wood (tacking board) near the wheel tub. There is a metal strip that these strips and the two smaller bolts or what ever they were for the hinge support go up through the bottom of the strip. The larger bolt goes in the center of the support all the way through both flanges of the frame rail. In the frame rail where the larger bolt goes there is a metal piece that is riveted in between the flanges of the frame. I can take some closer pictures if you like.

As you can you can see I need so major work done on that section of my car. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> The larger bolt goes in the center of the support all the way through both flanges of the frame rail. </div></div>

Okay, I thought that was the way it was supposted to be mounted (mine has same type hole in frame), but when I mount the hinges there they are too far back and lid part of hinge Hits body behind lid opening and there's no way to line it up with trunk-lid. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> The original hinges must have been made longer and with an extreme angle at base.

This is going to take some 'Extreme Modification' or different hinge assemblies. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" /> I'll probably have to fabricate a large support bracket that goes between floor and hinge assembly, to get it angled further forward. Putting more holes in frame-rails would be difficult since it would need to be at cross brace where shocks mount.

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I had trouble with rubbing on the right side but that is do to the root <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />.

Tell you one thing this is a long procees. How do you keep yourself from going <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />. I think once I get the body off to the shop and the frame back after sand blasting. It will go smoother. I hope. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" />

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The body man that is going to do the metal work is out at Pebble Beach and said he would take mine when he gets back. The frame will be blasted then.

Hopefully the car he did for Pebble does well.

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I am bagging and tagging all nuts and bolts. Instead of reinstalling these old rusty nuts and bolts my friend suggested I go out and purchase all stainless steel ones (these would just be for the running boards, fenders etc) and just paint them. What have you all done to replace them?</div></div> I know I am quoting myself but soon I will be reassembling some parts and wonder what you all use Stainless or Cadmium-Plated?

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If it's not too late, you better be very careful with sandblasting of sheet metal. Most commercial sandblasters are absolutely brutal. They're used to blasting angle iron and the like, not thin body panels. They need to use just barely enough pressure to do the job. Otherwise, you won't believe how much buckling they can cause in the metal, particularly in relatively flat, broad panels like hoods, splash aprons and doors. The last car I restored I blasted myself, using extremely low pressure, with no damage to the sheet metal. I've seen a lot of wavy hoods caused by blasting. I'm sure others can weigh in with further advice.

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Rick,

Thanks for lighting up the pictures. I looked into photo shop but it is a bit pricey for my use. My Kodak camera did come with some software but I have not had a chance to really play around with it. Maybe this winter during downtime if there will ever be some.

He will lift body off frame to blast top side under sills. Said that should take a few days. For metal work I will be stopping at his shop next week and will find out then how long he will have it for. Hopefully for a few months that way it gives me time to paint frame and reinstall all the miscellaneous parts that are a pain to get at when body is on frame.

Jr and Randy,

First off thanks for advice I will find out what pressure they use. This shop had blasted a car that just went to Pebble Beach and took second in that Class. So hopefully they will do as good of a job on my car.

<span style="font-style: italic">It is amazing here 6 months back I was just going to do an engine overhaul and now look where I am at. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" /></span>

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> <span style="font-style: italic">It is amazing here 6 months back I was just going to do an engine overhaul and now look where I am at. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" /></span> </div></div>

Yep, That's Usually the way these restoration projects Go. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />

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I think I would have remove the motor too before i let them sand blast, that sand gets into everything, and into places you never thought of.. i have done a couple of frames and the mess around after. its even gets into the house. My next thing is to try Soda blasting, i here there is something new as well using dry ice, at least you can keep the beer cold.. This is the setup i'am using , an industreal air compressor 210 CFM @ 120lbs and a pressure tank whick hold about 12o lbs or media.. See Atachment

post-31131-143137891426_thumb.jpg

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One of the shops here uses soda and prefers it way over sand for blasting. Apparently soda not only does not distort the metal, or cut right through it, but it is easier to clean up after blasting. Good luck with the cleaning!

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Hi Geoff,

No I have not decided on paint scheme yet. I have some time before I choose scheme. My wife likes the Maroon and Black combo and as I do too but the other side of me after finding the original paint scheme (same combo as Tbirdmans car) wants to paint it the original color. Decisions, decisions this will be a tuff one.

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Hi Al,

If we still had our first house where the garage was detached and out in the alley I would have tried blasting it myself but since we are in a house where the garages are attached and no more alleyways I have to send out some of the work. Also Neighbors would not be happy with the noise and sand flying all over. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" />

Bernardi.

This shop is using some new material that is not as abrasive and leaves the metal as if it were sanded with 1,300 grit sand paper.

I too have heard of the blasting with dry ice and soda.

Cleanup what cleanup? I know there will be some. But at least I don?t have it all over the inside of the house.

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">No I have not decided on paint scheme yet. </div></div>

It must be really difficult desiding colors when color-blind, not knowing what other people see. Are there just a few colors you can't see or do they all look the same? I'm just trying to understand what that would be like, since I've never talked to anyone about color blindness? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" /> Can you get some idea of the differences by talking to other people and have them describe the colors?

I hope you don't mind me asking?

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hi Geoff,

No I have not decided on paint scheme yet. I have some time before I choose scheme. My wife likes the Maroon and Black combo and as I do too but the other side of me after finding the original paint scheme (same combo as Tbirdmans car) wants to paint it the original color. Decisions, decisions this will be a tuff one. </div></div>

Paint is a tough decision. I see cars all the time and wonder what happen to the decision process. Getting the right shade is the toughest, and I could not do it.

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Rick,

No problem asking. You read my post on the display changes?

You know when you go to the DMV and have to take the Color dot test. I can not see any numbers etc. all I see is just a bunch of colored dots. The DMV person got snippy at me the last time I took the test.

I do from time to time have to ask my wife what color certain things are especially when I wear a shirt and tie to work. That is when I feel like wearing one. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" /> I did wear something off color one day and when I got home my wife goes you know what you are wearing doesn?t match. LOL

The colors I have trouble with are some Greens and Browns look the same to me, lite Pink looks white to me and some Shades of Red. So like tbirdman car I can tell they are two different colors but to name the color no clue.

So now you see why I will have a tuff decision on color scheme for my car.

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  • Tom M changed the title to 1931 833 Restoration

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