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1931 833 Restoration


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  • 1 month later...

Mother Nature is not being nice to use here in the windy city.

Was in the garage last night having a debate with myself should I start reassembling the engine or should I wait until the body work is complete, Decisions decisions what do you do if there is no window insight for priming and painting?

Should I wait until the body work is complete before I start reassemble the engine?

I can't sand parts because it is to cold to put the next coat of primer on. frown.gif

Can you tell I am ready to pull my hair out. crazy.gif

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I would think of the chassis and drive-line (including engine) as a separate project than the body.

Assemble the engine and drive-line on the frame.

Get a rolling chassis assembled so it will be ready when you get enough paint on the body, to be able to install the required body components and mount it on the completed chassis.

Don't forget that you need the final coat of paint and the carb-linkage on the Firewall before putting the body behind the engine.

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Speedster</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Don't forget that you need the final coat of paint and the carb-linkage on the Firewall before putting the body behind the engine. </div></div>I was wondering about the linkage. I thought it was pretty tight there. Looks like I will need to crawl up into attic and pull down the linkage and brackets or just wait.

I already have the frame, firewall and chassis components either painted or powdered coated already. They are just waiting to be reinstalled smile.gif

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Speedster</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

Don't forget that you need the final coat of paint and the carb-linkage on the Firewall before putting the body behind the engine. </div></div>

Speedster,

Is this advice from experience? smile.gif Sounds like something I would do.

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No, I remembered grin.gif, but that carb-linkage-rod-assembly can really be a problem and easy to damage, when trying to get the body in position, when doing it by yourself. smirk.gif

Another problem is that there are bolt and screw heads in exterior of firwall, that need to be painted, after everything is mounted on inside. So I just used a small artist paintbrush to do those, instead of trying to spray them.

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Speedster</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

Another problem is that there are bolt and screw heads in exterior of firwall, that need to be painted, after everything is mounted on inside. So I just used a small artist paintbrush to do those, instead of trying to spray them. </div></div>

Would those bolts and screws be cadmium plated?

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Some of the larger ones, that I replaced, are Cad-plated, but there are also some that are not (I don't think any of the original screws, that I reused, were). Why?

To me, it looks more original with all the firewall hardware painted same color as firewall.

Hey, I'm only tryin' for a 100 year restoration, Not a 1000 year restoration, like You. grin.gif

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  • 4 weeks later...

Had some setbacks today I went to do some final 400 sanding on one of the doors. Placed it outside on some saw horses and low and behold lower half of door where I had done some bondo work (I used Evercoat Extreme and some Metal Glaze) it has Spider Webbed on me.

I sprayed some w&g on it as highlights the cracks shocked.giffrown.gif

First picture is before I stripped it back down to bare metal the second picture is after I went to the home store and picked up 60 grit stripping disc for my 4 1/2" electric grinder since my little air die grinder was sucking up may to much air for my compressor to handle.

Does anyone have an idea what caused this to spider web like this?

Now to figure out how to blend this all in. Any pointers would be great?

Thanks

post-31137-143137985284_thumb.jpg

post-31137-143137985314_thumb.jpg

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I've never seen Bondo do that ???

Could it have been the primer paint or a glazeing-putty instead of the Bondo?

Did you use Bondo brand or was it some other brand?

Something would have to 'Shrink' to cause cracks like that.

I've seen glazeing-putty cause cracks, when applied thick, and the shrinkage is very noticable.

After Bondoing any dents (Real Bondo), I would use a belt-sander with fine-grid-belt to feather the edges, then hand sand with very-fine grit, Then apply a thick coat of primer and check how it looks. It may need another light sanding and another coat of primer for proper fill.

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I used Evercoat Extreme and some Metal Glaze.

I have strip doors back down to bare metal just to play it safe and for a peace of mind.

I just ran out and bought some new Bondo Gold a friends recommendation will see how this goes.

Off to garage now to lay some filler smile.gif

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It's my guess that it was the Glaze that shrunk and cracked.

I tried the Evercoat brand many years ago but didn't like it as well as Bondo, but I don't remember it shrinking?

If I remember correctly the reason I didn't like it as well was that the Evercoat brand was a thinner viscosity and was more difficult to apply to vertical surfaces?

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After 2 days of filler/sanding/filler/sanding I have my first coat of Epoxy on the doors.

This was sprayed with a Mini HVLP Shop Tool 1.0 tip spray gun. I have to say this little gun sprayed pretty well. A little orange peel but that is probably due to my settings and first time using it.

What you all think?

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s210/packin31/100_2628.jpg

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s210/packin31/100_2631.jpg

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s210/packin31/100_2626.jpg

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s210/packin31/100_2625.jpg

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Steve,

Yes if all goes well with my prep work I will hopefully be spraying the color coat myself. I did purchase a better gun just for that.

Color I still have not decided as of yet. The original color was like tbirds '32. But since I have had the inner parts of fenders powder coated black and have painted the rear wheel wells black already I think the original color is probably out of the question now.

I may stick with a maroon. I did see a car painted in mahogany color that looked very sharp.

I do like some blues and or even some greens.

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Yep, lookin' Good.

Don't forget to get the door edges and jams smooth and ready, and paint final coats on edges, before doing the last coats on outer surface. Seems to work out much better doing it in that sequence.

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Tom,

If you are going with Blue and Black, you are still going with the color of one of my cars, the 12 Cadillac. smile.gif

The Bird has sold on Ebay and a guy will be flying in the end of June to pick it up. Just got the check this weekend.

So I'm Fed-Exing the Cadillac here.

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: West Peterson</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I vote for ALL BLACK. </div></div>

Hey, That's Too Easy!

Tom will enjoy the challange of a 2-tone paint job, much More. grin.gif

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Restorer32,

I think that was my whole problem probem laying it on and not letting it set before spraying the HB. Will have to let it set now for a few days since cooler weather has set back in.

Rick,

Two tone paint job on these things can't be that hard. The reveal doesn't look to challenging. Well I hope not wink.gif

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Packin31</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

Two tone paint job on these things can't be that hard. The reveal doesn't look to challenging. Well I hope not wink.gif

</div></div>

No, Not Too difficult. It does take more time of course. And don't forget good masking-tape and plenty of plastic-sheet or paper to protect the other areas when spraying.

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All black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black. grin.gif

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The only thing with all black West is you will be able to see my lack of experience in body work. crazy.gif

There was a bullet hole in the back right sail panel but I have since filled it. My brother goes you should have left it and said that the car was used my Al Capone smile.gif

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: West Peterson</div><div class="ubbcode-body">All black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black, all black. grin.gif </div></div>

Are you sure your not a descendent of Henry F. smile.gif ?

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Packin31</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The only thing with all black West is you will be able to see my lack of experience in body work. crazy.gif

</div></div>

Add flames to hide your bodywork cool.gif

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  • 1 month later...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tbirdman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Looking good. Looks like you could take your doors to a local car show and win under construction wink.gif

I could never have the patience like you and do a whole car at once. </div></div>There is a local show tonight. Maybe I should show off them doors smile.gif

Somtimes I wonder where I even get the patience too.

What do you think of the black and white? Is it a nice combo smile.gif

The gent that is helping me trying to find some color is having a hard time finding a place to match the old Paint Codes. frown.gif

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I was looking for a deep rich color beside the normal Maroons and this one caught my eye when I saw it on a car in the shop. We will see how it looks. I should be receiving my order in a few days.

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  • Tom M changed the title to 1931 833 Restoration

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