1966 Buick Riviera Keys

[lalomerc1]

Are the door locks and ignition keyed the same? Need keys made for a 1966 Buick Riviera which i inherited - with no keys. i removed the passenger door lock - (easier that taking off the ignition) to have a key made but was not sure if that key is gong to start the car or do i need to remove the ignition?

[Larry Schramm]

If my memory is still good, I believe that there are two keys for your car.  One for the doors/trunk/glove box and another one for the ignition.

[rocketraider]

GM was changing some things in mid-60s. I think 66 still used an octagon-head key for front doors and ignition and a round-headed key for trunk and glovebox. But, as Larry points out, could be one key for ignition and one for everything else.

 

###

 

Ignition lock cylinder shouldn't be hard to remove on a 1966 GM car.

 

Look at the ignition switch and you should see a small hole on its face near the key slot.

 

With battery disconnected, turn ignition switch to ACCESSORY position. Insert a paper clip into the hole and push in on it. Turn the key counterclockwise and the lock cylinder should pop out. A locksmith can then easily make a key. A good one may even have GM/Rochester or Briggs & Stratton key blanks.

 

You'll see a tab and a slot in the switch and lock cylinder. Simply align those and push lock cylinder back in to replace it.

 

With the cylinder out is a good time to spray a little lock lubricant and switch contact cleaner into it.

 

 

[joe_padavano]

3 hours ago, rocketraider said:

Ignition lock cylinder shouldn't be hard to remove on a 1966 GM car.

 

Look at the ignition switch and you should see a small hole on its face near the key slot.

 

With battery disconnected, turn ignition switch to ACCESSORY position. Insert a paper clip into the hole and push in on it. Turn the key counterclockwise and the lock cylinder should pop out. A locksmith can then easily make a key. A good one may even have GM/Rochester or Briggs & Stratton key blanks.

 

You'll see a tab and a slot in the switch and lock cylinder. Simply align those and push lock cylinder back in to replace it.

 

With the cylinder out is a good time to spray a little lock lubricant and switch contact cleaner into it.

Glenn, unfortunately, turning the ignition lock cylinder like that requires the key in addition to the paper clip. The OP does not have the keys.

 

All 1935-1966 GM cars use the same key blade. Yes, there are octagon and oval head versions, but unlike later years, these both have the same blade with the same grooves on the side and you can slide either one into all the lock cylinders on the vehicle. Obviously the lock won't turn if the key isn't cut correctly, but for these cars you can cut an oval key to operate the ignition and an octagon to operate the trunk if you desire.

 

I can't speak to Rivieras, but all 1966 Oldsmobiles used the same key for the doors and ignition. The door lock cylinder will have a four character code stamped in it. This code can be looked up in a Curtis code book to provide the proper cuts to make a new key. That unfortunately won't help with the trunk. The glove box lock also won't help with the trunk as the glove box (and console) locks only use four or five of the six tumblers in the trunk lock (depending on the specific lock cylinder style). You can sometimes get the trunk open by removing the back seat and using a long stack of extensions to unbolt the lock mechanism from the inside of the trunklid.

[Frank DuVal]

Yep, 1935 to 1966 GM cars used B&S Groove 15 keys in both the octagon head and Pear head. Typically octagon was used for "one key cars" like Chevrolet and the pear head key was for the trunk and glovebox on "two key cars". Later in the 70s the ignition started to be its own key (rectangular) and the oval head worked the trunk/door/glovebox. These are the big head and lettered  (A, B, C, etc) different groove keys than Groove 15.

 

Without a key, removing the ignition cylinder will be an issue. I have lots of Groove 15 used keys (aka B-10 and B-11 keys) that I wiggle and jiggle everyone until I get the cylinder to turn backwards (CCW) [except on those Buicks where it is CW!]. Even taking the lock assembly out of the dash is usually impossible because the retaining nut (that shiny chrome ring) is held by the cylinder!

 

And these sidebar locks (ignition/door and trunk, not glove box) are quite hard to PICK! Glove box wafer locks are easy. I can pick those open to find the code and make a key. However, GM stopped putting codes on these locks in the 60s, and I've even worked on much earlier glove box locks that did not have a code. May have been replacement locks along the way.

 

I can make keys for you if you have the code and mail them to you.

 

It will be a 4 digit code starting with an 8 or 9. (8000 to 9499)

[joe_padavano]

6 hours ago, Frank DuVal said:

Yep, 1935 to 1966 GM cars used B&S Groove 15 keys in both the octagon head and Pear head. Typically octagon was used for "one key cars" like Chevrolet and the pear head key was for the trunk and glovebox on "two key cars". Later in the 70s the ignition started to be its own key (rectangular) and the oval head worked the trunk/door/glovebox. These are the big head and lettered  (A, B, C, etc) different groove keys than Groove 15.

 

Without a key, removing the ignition cylinder will be an issue. I have lots of Groove 15 used keys (aka B-10 and B-11 keys) that I wiggle and jiggle everyone until I get the cylinder to turn backwards (CCW) [except on those Buicks where it is CW!]. Even taking the lock assembly out of the dash is usually impossible because the retaining nut (that shiny chrome ring) is held by the cylinder!

 

And these sidebar locks (ignition/door and trunk, not glove box) are quite hard to PICK! Glove box wafer locks are easy. I can pick those open to find the code and make a key. However, GM stopped putting codes on these locks in the 60s, and I've even worked on much earlier glove box locks that did not have a code. May have been replacement locks along the way.

 

I can make keys for you if you have the code and mail them to you.

 

It will be a 4 digit code starting with an 8 or 9. (8000 to 9499)

The letter keys started with the 1967 model year. Even though the 67 and 68 keys still used the octagon and round heads, the blades are still the same as on the later rectangle and oval head blanks

[lalomerc1]

10 hours ago, Frank DuVal said:

Yep, 1935 to 1966 GM cars used B&S Groove 15 keys in both the octagon head and Pear head. Typically octagon was used for "one key cars" like Chevrolet and the pear head key was for the trunk and glovebox on "two key cars". Later in the 70s the ignition started to be its own key (rectangular) and the oval head worked the trunk/door/glovebox. These are the big head and lettered  (A, B, C, etc) different groove keys than Groove 15.

 

Without a key, removing the ignition cylinder will be an issue. I have lots of Groove 15 used keys (aka B-10 and B-11 keys) that I wiggle and jiggle everyone until I get the cylinder to turn backwards (CCW) [except on those Buicks where it is CW!]. Even taking the lock assembly out of the dash is usually impossible because the retaining nut (that shiny chrome ring) is held by the cylinder!

 

And these sidebar locks (ignition/door and trunk, not glove box) are quite hard to PICK! Glove box wafer locks are easy. I can pick those open to find the code and make a key. However, GM stopped putting codes on these locks in the 60s, and I've even worked on much earlier glove box locks that did not have a code. May have been replacement locks along the way.

 

I can make keys for you if you have the code and mail them to you.

 

It will be a 4 digit code starting with an 8 or 9. (8000 to 9499)

Thanks Frank - Where can i find the 4 digit code . i have the original owners manual but don't know where to look to find it. 

[lalomerc1]

Thanks Frank

[m-mman]

Keys…….always a (potential) problem. 
yes do try to make a key from the door lock BUT don’t be surprised to find that it doesn’t fit. 
 

I have had more than my share of one owner, one family, decent original cars that have come to me with THREE keys. Two doors that don’t match the ignition. One door that matches the ignition but not the other door and one that had 3 different keys, one for each door and the ignition. WTH???

 

I talked to the owner or family and nobody ever remembers doing key or lock work.  “Three keys, It’s always been that way”.  
Obviously somebody changed or installed new locks at some time.  
 

If you look at new/replacement lock sets you can buy; ignition only, both doors and ignition and matched set of two door locks.  On eBay I commonly see a NOS NORS lock for a single door. (Likely someone installed just one door lock leaving the other in the package). 
 

DIY would do this poor quality work but I would hope that a quality locksmith would swap all 3 sets keeping them matched for convenience if nothing else.  
Maybe the swapping was done by a gas station jockey?  
Anyway, be prepared for surprises.  

[joe_padavano]

On 6/14/2024 at 10:57 AM, lalomerc1 said:

Thanks Frank - Where can i find the 4 digit code . i have the original owners manual but don't know where to look to find it. 

The code was stamped on the knockouts on the original keys, as well as on the door lock and ignition lock cylinders.

 

[Frank DuVal]

On 6/14/2024 at 7:04 AM, joe_padavano said:

The letter keys started with the 1967 model year. Even though the 67 and 68 keys still used the octagon and round heads, the blades are still the same as on the later rectangle and oval head blanks

Right, Joe. Now how did I leave that tidbit out of my post? I guess because I was correcting the door should match the ignition in the 1966 year. (And yes, things get changed.🤬..) OK, here it is:

 

A  1967 Door and Ignition    Octagonal 

B  1967 Trunk and Glovebox  Pear

C  1968 Door and Ignition     Octagonal

D  1968 Trunk and Glovebox  Pear

 

E  1969 Door and Ignition   Rectangular big head

H 1969  Trunk and Glovebox  Round (Oval) bug head

 

Note no F or G groove made for GM cars

 

J  1970 Door and Ignition  Rectangular big head

K  1970 Trunk and Glovebox  Oval big head

 

1971 Starts again with A....   And now all are big Rectangular and oval heads. So this is why the aftermarket and B&S stopped supplying octagonal and pear head ABCD blanks.

 

Why big heads? Because of the 1969 GM steering column locks on most vehicles (Corvairs and trucks do not get them yet) the octagonal key looked weird (?) and was hard to turn.

 

The code will be on the outside of the door locks. Both the ignition and glovebox need the cylinder removed from the lock to read the code. Usually the trunk lock code can be seen without taking cylinder out, but not always!🤬

 

I re-key locks so all match as they were from the factory. Or, even make a two key car a one key car 1966 and earlier. Not usually possible on 1967 and later since the key groove is different from door to trunk, etc.

 

[EmTee]

8 hours ago, Frank DuVal said:

Both the ignition and glovebox need the cylinder removed from the lock to read the code.

 

The rub here is that you need to have a working ignition key to remove the ignition cylinder.

[KURTRUK]

On 6/14/2024 at 7:57 AM, lalomerc1 said:

Thanks Frank - Where can i find the 4 digit code . i have the original owners manual but don't know where to look to find it. 

Many owner's manuals have an admonition to record the key code in a blank space provided in the manual (for this very purpose).  Ok, how many of you have ever done this?  Let's see the hands!

I have seen owner's manuals where someone did actually do that.

 

I don't know about GM vehicles, but with Studebakers, you can order the production order for your car, and the key code is recorded there.

[m-mman]

28 minutes ago, KURTRUK said:

I don't know about GM vehicles, but with Studebakers, you can order the production order for your car, and the key code is recorded there.

On Cadillac records they automatically blank out all key information before they will send it to you.  They seem to have the idea that there are lots of people who would see a car, record the VIN, request an invoice, make a key then steal that car……

 

I remember a discussion on the Cadillac board, the guy had just bought something that had been stored for decades and wanted to avoid removing the cylinders.  He called Cadillac historic and he was told that there were no exceptions, no key numbers.  😳

[Frank DuVal]

The key code is sometimes on the Broadcast Sheet, aka Build sheet, found in the seats, under carpet, etc. 😉

[cquisuila]

RIVIERA 1967

Edited June 20 by cquisuila (see edit history)